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Jun 25, 2018 21:40:01 GMT
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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A good 4 hour stint tonight and i dare say the stripping of the floor pan is finished. And treated with Hydrate 80. You can see that I've left the exhaust tunnel. That area is etch primed and as the arch is too narrow for me to get the angle grinder in. I'm happy to leave this as it'll be covered with the heat shield anyway.   |
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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Jun 28, 2018 19:56:45 GMT
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I've started applying the epoxy mastic. Very very messy. Mixing 4 to 1 as the instructions recommend. Its potent stuff too so a proper respirator and a ventilated area is a must. I very nearly applied the electrox zinc primer first but after a quick bit of research on Bilt Hamber's FAQ page saw that someone had asked whether they should apply electrox over the Hydrate80 and the reply was a No.
Both Hydrate 80 and electrox should only be applied over bare metal. Hydrate 80 acts as a primer as it cures so I just thought I'd include this as if anyone else is doing a similar job using the Bilt Hamber stuff.
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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Jun 29, 2018 21:07:43 GMT
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Just read this through from the start, great thread!
Well done on going for a career change, and I'm glad to see you’re getting back stuck into the golf!
The work from the body shop looks great, but I can’t believe the price quoted for getting it from where it was to painted. I can understand the disheartening feeling!
Are you any further forward with picking somewhere else to continue the work?
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Jun 30, 2018 10:37:27 GMT
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Excellent work on this.
I've been using the mastic on my Rex and I found it really hard to avoid brush marks.
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Hi sorry for my belated reply I've not logged in this past week. Yeh tbh i knew they were getting attention from rich folk with exotics they wanted work on so I was practically in the way I believe but anyway thats water under the bridge. And yeh things are progressing with the career change, cheers for the suppoort! 😊 Well I've just finished applying the epoxy mastic. Its not a perfect job as I can only do so much on my back and as rotorypower has mentioned there are plenty of brush strokes evident. I'm still happy with the finish and as long as its hard wearing as Bilt Hamber claim thats all I'm effectively concerned about. So this is where it was 8 months ago.  And this is today.    I cant really get any decent pictures so apologies for that. Also stripped and painted the subframe with POR15.   Not there yet, but closer than it was yesterday. |
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2018 17:57:24 GMT by Coakers
Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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I would be really tempted to spray a coat of Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax over that and it will virtually replicate the factory finish and hide all your brush strokes
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I would be really tempted to spray a coat of Dinitrol 4941 underbody wax over that and it will virtually replicate the factory finish and hide all your brush strokes Cheers for the advice mate, I have already bought this though which I hope will give similar results as dinitrol.   |
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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Ok - my only point here is that Dynax is unproven where has Dinitrol is proven, tried & tested by hundreds of thousands over a substantial period (I've been using it for 40 years) don't let me put you off - Bilt Hamber products are good and at the top end of the market - myself being a belt & braces man I like to see physical proof of how products have performed in real world conditions and with rust proofing it's a job you want to do once has the consequences of it not doing what it states on the tin are catastrophic
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Last Edit: Jul 5, 2018 5:40:51 GMT by Deleted
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Ok - my only point here is that Dynax is unproven where has Dinitrol is proven, tried & tested by hundreds of thousands over a substantial period (I've been using it for 40 years) don't let me put you off - Bilt Hamber products are good and at the top end of the market - myself being a belt & braces man I like to see physical proof of how products have performed in real world conditions and with rust proofing it's a job you want to do once has the consequences of it not doing what it states on the tin are catastrophic Given your experience in this field I most probably will go for the dinitrol then, as I really don't want to be worrying about how effective (or not) my rust proofing is. Thanks again for your advice grumpynortherner 👍 |
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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keyring
Part of things
Posts: 913
Club RR Member Number: 47
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The underside looks great! Something I should do myself on a few of mine! May have to buy myself some Dinitrol too!
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I've used Dynax on my 88 Scirocco and highly recommend it. Bilt Hamber have had scientific testing done on Dynax and other leading waxes and it came out very well.
If you've already bought it I would go with it and not worry.
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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I've used Dynax on my 88 Scirocco and highly recommend it. Bilt Hamber have had scientific testing done on Dynax and other leading waxes and it came out very well. If you've already bought it I would go with it and not worry. Fair point dude, I may use both! As the dinitrol is available for under £20 but it would be overkill really. I've got to seam seal next and I'll give the floor pan an extra coat of epoxy so it all blends with the seam sealer. Then use the dynax UC. I'm going to paint the engine bay when the floor pan is done. Something I'm very much looking forward too. After that its brake lines. Go do it Keyring! I think this is a golden age of car restoration as there are so many good products and tips/guides out there nowadays. |
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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Sometimes, others may not understand why you like a car so much. Sometimes, you may not even understand why you like a car so much. But none of that matters; all that matters is that you like the car, and having it makes you happy.
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Interesting, I do need to buy some extra anyway as I still need to treat the inner wings (which have already been painted the body colour)   and chassis rails also. So a good blast of dinitrol/dynax in these sections is going to be needed. |
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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Spent a full 6 hours at the unit stripping the bay tonight 20:00 - 2:00. All the rust issues were already dealt with so I didn't need to worry about uncovering anything. Ive primed it with Electrox, its different from other primers because it... 'produces a surface film containing over 90% metallic zinc, once cured the tightly packed zinc particles establish an electronically conductive pathway enabling cathodic protection of the underlying steel'... Fancy ey? I've got to wait 96 hours to apply the top coat though. Picking that up tomorrow. Also just spent a fair wack on parts.   |
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Last Edit: Jul 9, 2018 2:33:40 GMT by Coakers
Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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Bit more done today. Put the subframe back together. Feels very good to start assembling things again. Heres a before and after on the subframe. The monza blue anti-roll bar has got to be worth at least a 15bhp increase right??  Also cleaned the fuel tank inside and out. I poured some degreser in the tank, swirled it around multiple times, drained it, repeated the process 3 timea and then just used water and drained that until it ran clear. A pressure washer and heavy duty decreaser is your friend. I'm going to put some petrol in the tank after its dried and then drain that just to reduce the risk of contaminants in the tank as much as possible.   |
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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ianw
Part of things
Posts: 190 
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Fantastic work on this, going to be an epic MK2!
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Fantastic work on this, going to be an epic MK2! Cheers mate 😀 I've just done a bit more tonight.  Used this on just about every cavity I could find.   Withdrawing while spraying (ooo err) provides good coverage for inside the cavity. Also going in a circular or figure eight pattern helps. Then seam sealing. In retrospect I wish I used a stiffer bristled brush. This stuff was potent!. Way to ruin my lovely black floor pan.    |
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Mk2 Golf 16V resto
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am4nf
Part of things
Posts: 44
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Jul 17, 2018 11:06:44 GMT
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page 7&8 pictures no worky for me  |
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ive got an s70 the same colour but the one drifting isn't mine
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