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Here follows a brief history of my 110 in the 7 years or so I've owned it. It's a straight copy and paste of the thread I had running about it on AULRO, so it might read a little funny, but editing on a phone is a ball ache. 110's seem pretty popular out there, especially County's, so I thought I'd share the story behind mine, much loved, and the one Land Rover I've owned longer than any other. So, back up 6 years or so and I bought a V8 powered 110 CSW with 170,000 miles on it from a mate who was desperate for cash for £2000.  It had spent a lot of time with previous owners travelling overland around Africa, with around 120,000 miles on the clock being with them. Plenty of mods for purpose included the safety devices internal/external full roll cage, a long range fuel tank behind the rear quarter, a water tank on the other side, along with lock boxes and racking in the back, plus a gas system to make it cheaper to run. The original LT85 box **** the lay shaft bearings within a thousand miles, so it had a cheap long stick LT77 from a Range Rover fired in which kept it going until engine issues, and the offer of a 4.2 auto box combo saw the lot come out in favour of the bigger engine.   The 4.2 went in with the efi setup, and a full stainless exhaust, whilst I managed to keep 3 seats in the front with creative positioning of the auto box selector.  It ran well at that for a while until the amount of fuel it was drinking became a bit too much, 8mpg average was sore on the wallet, even on gas, so it was parked for a while and I ran an old van bodies truck with a 300 Tdi in it for a while. Redemption came when I picked up the remains of a Range Rover with a Mazda SL35T and auto box on eBay for about half the cost of the rebuild the V8 needed, along with buying the remains of a mates one after he wrote it off losing control on a patch of diesel on the road. So, lots of bits gathered up, into the workshop and pull it apart.    Everything off, and replace the rear axle with a disc braked unit.   And had the wife clean and paint the chassis.  Dropped the Mazda in.  And built it back up with the new body.  49 bolts hold the roof down, and it took nearly 3 hours to get it bolted up and everything lined up right.  Looking good though.  Bonnet repainted to match.  And rolled out nearly finished.  Since getting it back on the road it's clocked up a few miles. Done some posing (with a mates 2011 USW)  Plenty of towing.  And been snowed on.  Received a pair of forward facing rear seats to keep the kids happy.  Had the original drop plate replaced with a receiver hitch after the original sheared off (that was worrying)  Along with a transfer box swop from a Borg Warner to 1.4:1 LT230  And most recently a bit of tarting up, along with throwing a half decent set of 265/75 Kumhos on that I was given. Out in the sun over here and looking great.   Brilliant all round car, and I couldn't be without it. Every home should have one. |
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So, having sat still for a few weeks things are happening with the 110 again, I've been wanting to change the turbo for something a little smaller, the one that was on there was too big with a serious lag problem. I happened to find a complete engine advertised locally so stuck my neck out and got it for £300.  I was originally just going to rob the turbo, and intercooler setup, but a quick test run showed it to be a better engine (starting first turn having connected a battery and bleeding the fuel filter) whilst the presence of a boost controller on the pump sealed the deal and I decided to swop the complete engine.  It came out reasonably quickly.  Quick tidy up in the engine bay.  And new one in.  Both being M&D conversions I found the exhaust down pipe linked straight up to the rest of the system, whilst the top hose for the radiator also lined up nicely. The intercooler setup utilises a 200 Tdi radiator and intercooler reoriented so as the radiator is offset to the left of the car. I didn't have a 200 radiator, but did turn up a decent 300 Tdi rad, which with a link pipe for the bottom hose will be good enough for now, the eventual plan being to fit a Td5 radiator and inter cooler setup. Final finishing of the pipe work and a test drive on Monday, followed by replacing the N/S bulkhead outrigger and getting it MOT'd again. I've certainly missed not having it on the road. |
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So, everything piped up, back axle ball joint changed (on top of everything else) and once again it's road legal. The new engine has transformed the car, the old lump pulled well, but this one is absolutely stonking. I'd actually go as far as to say it pulls better than the 4.2 V8 that used to live in there. Can't stop looking for excuses to keep driving it... It's been running fairly well since the new engine went in, wet and horrible winter has meant a slightly damp environment inside, but plenty of built in drain holes has meant the inside hasn't flooded, whilst it's also coped well with an awful lot of water on the roads with some of the flooding we've had recently. Asides topping up oils and tightening belts (it's seems to have a bit of an appetite for Alternator and PAS belts) it's clocked up the miles without any issues, although there is a small list of 'get round to it' jobs, including new carpets and matting for the rear, a more permenant solution to the vibrating rear windows, sorting the door lock buttons, the list goes on. I also decided I fancied a different look to the Alloys that were on it, and having picked up a set of Wolf rims fairly cheap decided they would look good painted up and on the 110. I like them in white, although the wife reckons I should have painted them black.  I've also got a bit of an itch to swop the engine for something else again, not sure what I'd go for, but petrol or diesel it'd have to be at least six cylinders, might consider going back to a manual box also, a few decisions to make although time and money are the big factors. |
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Since the date of that last post on AULRO (over 18 months ago) things have changed some.
The wife has since become the ex-wife, and part of her departure involved attacking the 110 with a hammer and a set of wire cutters.
It sat for about 6 months as I didn't have time to do anything with it, but after being made redundant from the job I had at the time (April 2015) I decided it was time to get the thing back on the road again, not least because the Vitara I was running around with at the time (don't laugh, it was cheap and running) was dissolving around me.
Some new glass to replace the broken bits, wiring in a new fusebox to replace the one the ex cut out, and replacing the brakepipes that were also cut saw it drivable, whilst a set of decent 235/85R16's turned up on ebay for £110 along with a little chassis and bulkhead welding saw it pass an MOT and had it back on the road again.
Since then it's been clocking up the miles (about 10k since the end of may) being used for pretty much everything.
It boiled itself whilst dragging an 18ft flatbed trailer over the summer, with the problem traced down to the radiator being blocked solid, and the heater core being the only form of cooling for the engine.
I picked up a radiator and intercooler from a Td5 Disco for next to nothing, and suddenly it was running a lot cooler, and quite happy to drag the same trailer (heavily loaded) on a 120 mile run at a 55mph average.
More recently it destroyed a hub bearing on Christmas eve, so has been sat since waiting for parts to arrive.
New bearings will also be accompanied by a fresh set of discs, pads and callipers on the front end, as will likely be documented when they're done.
The engine is also in need of attention, or swopping for something else, as it's breathing quite heavily, and at present using about 4 litres of oil for every 1000 miles running.
A rebuild kit for the engine would cost me about £1200, plus the time messing about doing it, so a new one looks more likely.
At present I'm looking at Mercedes OM605 and OM606 lumps as potential candidates. With C250's and E300's available from £250 upwards, and both good for a reliable 200bhp and 380nm or so it seems a good choice.
On balance I'd prefer the six cylinder, but we'll see what turns up, and what my wallet can stand.
That's it so far.
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looking pretty solid, doing some work on my fathers 110. Everything is rusted and a pain, but once we get the doors welded up it'll be time to tart the chassis up!
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Love it. I'm debating about fitting a 3.0 diesel from a BMW, like you would find in an L322 Rangie, in my 1997 Disco 300tdi. I've read up on modifying the transfer box to fit the output shaft from the BMW box. I love the idea of shocking people away from the lights in a smoky, rusty old nail.
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Worth doing I think. They can be attached to the R380 manual, or the ZF auto using P38 Rangie bits. There's a guy done one in a 110 on LR4X4. Clicky linkyThe merc appeals to me as it's cheap, although both engines seem able to produce similar bhp/torque outputs when you start messing about tuning them |
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Worth doing I think. They can be attached to the R380 manual, or the ZF auto using P38 Rangie bits. There's a guy done one in a 110 on LR4X4. Clicky linkyThe merc appeals to me as it's cheap, although both engines seem able to produce similar bhp/torque outputs when you start messing about tuning them Linky no worky. I considred the Merc OM606 engine. It's quite tuneable by all accounts. |
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Fark.
It's in the 'modified vehicles and special builds' board on LR4X4.
Thread title is something like M57 into 110 CSW.
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brilliant engine swopping and body redo...wish I had the chops!
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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Jan 23, 2016 15:22:56 GMT
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So, as mentioned in my last post, it gave me an early Christmas present in the form of a collapsed hub bearing. Having gotten hold of a bearing kit I set to sorting it out, and fitting the new brakes. Starting out, rusty old discs which had most recently suffered from the pads going through, and have really been due changing for a while.  Hub off, and start by cleaning the oily sandy curse word out of the back of the disc so the disc could be unbolted from the hub.  Then take the bolts out -14mm bi-hex socket- and use the special disc removal tool.  Fortunately it's had a set of discs in the past, so these ones didn't take too much to get off, old disc was then chucked in the scrap.  Then bolt the hub into the shiney new vented disc.  Shiney new calliper to suit the wider disc.  All reassembled with a new set of pads, and a pair of m6x100 bolts to hold them in.  Finally a small amount buffed off the hub to allow it to clear the callipers, which sit that bit closer now.  Onto the other side to deal with the collapsed bearing. It's rather dry in there...  It also broke the washer that sits between the bearing and hub nut.  Damaged stub, and inner bearing race well stuck. The grinder took care of the inner race which knocked off easily after it was buffed through, whilst use of a file and some fine emery paper cleaned up the end of the stub to an acceptable standard.  Swept up the old bearing cage and rollers...  Reassembly was similar to the other side, although the hub was buffed down to clear whilst it was still on the bench. All four wheels received a fresh coat of gloss white. The original satin I put on had gone rather dull, and had a few rust bubbles coming through, so I took the opportunity.  Some research told me what I needed to do to tweak the fuelling on the injection pump, so along with screwing the wastegate on the turbo up a couple of turns, I experimented winding the maximum fuel screw out. It now moves somewhat faster, and pulls a lot better when going up hills, which is the most pleasing improvement. I even managed to find a little joy in the fuel stop when out on the test run. It's since dropped another two pence a litre.  Looking a lot better with freshly painted wheels, I'm actually considering washing it properly as the amount of road salt and traffic film its got stuck all over it is becoming noticeable. Seen here with the other half's Series III, which is due its own thread shortly.  |
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Jan 25, 2016 12:44:45 GMT
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very nice work!
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Jan 25, 2016 20:37:40 GMT
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Looks good!
Didn't you used to have a 101?
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Koos
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I did. Sold it a few years back, and rebuilt it for the guy who bought it, wished I could have kept it by the time it was done.
Got another one in bits hiding away, time and money mean not much has happened with it.
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alx
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 367
Club RR Member Number: 21
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Seen here with the other half's Series III, which is due its own thread shortly. Is that she of hammer and snips wielding notoriety?? Surprised that didn't go with her or at least get a bit of a shoeing! AL. |
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Jan 26, 2016 10:02:03 GMT
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No, hammer wielding wife is now an ex wife -not in the ex parrot context- and the blue Land Rover belongs to new girlfriend, who is somewhat less nuts, and has been known to dive in and get her hands dirty with her cars.
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Jan 28, 2016 22:02:05 GMT
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No, hammer wielding wife is now an ex wife -not in the ex parrot context- and the blue Land Rover belongs to new girlfriend, who is somewhat less nuts, and has been known to dive in and get her hands dirty with her cars. She's a keeper! |
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very nice work...love the new brakes, they must work quite well....
JP
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I know its spelled Norman Luxury Yacht, but its pronounced Throat Wobbler Mangrove!
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She certainly is... The new brakes have certainly given the pedal a better feel, it slows up as well as I could hope it would anyways. Certainly useful after its most recent work, taking the 1.4:1 ratio transfer box out, and replacing it with this; The 1.2:1 ratio Borg Warner unit (along with the longer front prop) that was removed earlier in the thread, as the current engine has a lot more go about it.  Surprisingly large amount of duck tape holding it all together, although it is an excellent option for sealing up panel gaps.  A little detail on how the range rover auto selector was made to fit. You can also see where the seatbox was cut and folded up to clear the gearbox. The ZF autobox is taller than the LT85 it had in there when it left the factory.  It's mentioned on Ashcroft Transmission website that if you put too long a bolt in the middle hole on the drivers side of the vehicle it can interfere with the intermediate gears. Seems I managed to do it, but didn't notice. Here's the end result, it took some winding out.  Transfer box out.  New one in, Offside mount needs a bit of a mod as the mount hangs down and inch and a half lower.  Sawn off.  Tacked on.  Welded.  Other side, with an extra piece added, then flattened and blended.  All bolted in and good to go. I had to cut a piece of marine ply to cover the hole in the seatbox as the lockbox I had there is too deep to fit in there with the taller transfer box.  And a little effort made to stop the gear lever vibrating with the engine. The sponge works quite well once the trim piece is on top again.  Quite a positive change to the driving experience, some added carpet round the bulkhead and lower engine revs mean its a lot quieter for a given road speed, and it's got much longer legs, with a 70mph cruise now feeling a lot more relaxed. What happens next? Stay tuned for the next update. |
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Since the date of that last post on AULRO (over 18 months ago) things have changed some. The wife has since become the ex-wife, and part of her departure involved attacking the 110 with a hammer and a set of wire cutters. At present I'm looking at Mercedes OM605 and OM606 lumps as potential candidates. With C250's and E300's available from £250 upwards, and both good for a reliable 200bhp and 380nm or so it seems a good choice. On balance I'd prefer the six cylinder, but we'll see what turns up, and what my wallet can stand. That's it so far. Was this the one that posted her spaniels ears on orrp? I do hope you reported the vandalism to the cops! For Merc 605/606 have a look at Sowens thread here. He's got one into his Series. |
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Koos
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