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Mar 16, 2016 13:15:05 GMT
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Fuel line tends to be sold by internal diameter - not entirely sure what you mean by 'total diameter' but if that's the exterior size you may need to work with what is available. Might be worth a trip down to Demon Tweeks near Wrexham, not my usual source of parts but when I've struggled with fuel lines in the past they've usually had something I can adapt. Mikkey - the tank has been sat for 22 years without new fuel  really only a dribble left in, reckon a fresh tank will mix and flush the curse word out  I meant the total width not bore. Bit of a weird setup under the car. Sender unit goes to 6m bore braided pipes which link down under the car, but these then get routed into a 3.5m bore (6mm total diam) PVC/tygon piping which extends all the way to the engine bay. It then reverses and goes back into 6m bore braided, which then allows it to reconnect to the fuel filter/pump/carb etc. I was hoping to replicate this as it's clearly worked previously, and there are already under-carridge clips to fit the 3.5m bore pipe, so saves me a massive job in making a new route for any new piping. Basically just pull out the old stuff and thread in the new. See through would be good so I can see that fuel is being drawn through! I managed to start work early today so hoping to bomb to Wrexham at 4/4.30 and see what they got! Cheers taurus/Mikkey! EDIT; Like this!  |
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Last Edit: Mar 16, 2016 13:25:41 GMT by arsonist
1979 Mk1 Passat Estate 1.6 LS
1996 Mk3.5 Fiesta 1.3 Classic
1997 Mk1 MX5 1.8i
2005 Mazda 3 TS
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Mar 16, 2016 21:10:21 GMT
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The braided stuff looks like standard vacuum pipe, should be readily available at most car part stores. As for the plastic bits, is it possible to reuse them? Give them a bit of a clean and inspection and if they're okay I would stick them back on
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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Mar 16, 2016 22:33:54 GMT
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The braided stuff looks like standard vacuum pipe, should be readily available at most car part stores. As for the plastic bits, is it possible to reuse them? Give them a bit of a clean and inspection and if they're okay I would stick them back on Went to Deamon Tweaks today and had a chat and see what they had. They've got nothing similar to the thin stuff and didn't think anywhere would sell it these days that would be certified for fuel. The guy reckoned the old stuff should work ok if it gets flushed first. I got a load of 6m bore hosing and some warm air venting, so tomorrow I can flush the thin stuff and reconnect everything using new hose. Fingers crossed there are no leaks! |
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1979 Mk1 Passat Estate 1.6 LS
1996 Mk3.5 Fiesta 1.3 Classic
1997 Mk1 MX5 1.8i
2005 Mazda 3 TS
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Rebel
Part of things
Posts: 343 
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If you need automotive hose and aren't sure what size or type etc, it's always worth cutting off a couple of inches of what you have so you can show them what you need, tell them whether it's for fuel or coolant. If you don't want to cut any of the plastic stuff, take an entire pipe off and take it with you
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1968 Dodge Charger
1985 Chevrolet Camaro
1993 Toyota Hilux Surf
2001 Ford Mondeo
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For the rigid pipe look up nylon fuel in ebay there are several sellers, alternatively for the 8mm I use the plastic covered copper stuff sold for lpg.
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taurus
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,084
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If you need to flush through the line consider using a vacuum pump - always a handy bit of kit to have for easy oil changes anyway. I've got a 6 litre pump which I bought from a boat chandlers (cheaper than garage suppliers).
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The VW part number for that type of fuel line is N0201505, they did it on coils of 5 metres. I expect that VW would still sell it as they used the same sort of hose up until pretty recently, they can be surprisingly cheap for stuff like that. A quick google reveals a couple of places that sell an equivalent, such as: www.brickparts.co.uk/Workshop-Supplies/fuel-hose/polyamide-tube-6mm |
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Mar 29, 2016 19:32:13 GMT
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So I'v been sick as a dog these last 2 weeks so only just managed to pop out tonight and have a gander at the thermostat. Took me a while to find the housing unit to remove - but one of the bolts is stuck fast. Looks like a 10mm nut but the wrench just slips on it with only a small bit of pressure, although it doesn't look 'rounded'. The 9mm goes nowhere near it so won't help.
Anyone had any luck getting a dodgy nut off like this? Really need to replace the thermostat and do a proper reverse flush, the curse word that came out the thermostat pipe was filthy and lumpy!
Also waiting for some dryer weather to replace fuel lines as I'm sick of working in the rain! Think I've got everything I need now to replace all braided and clean out the existing PVC stuff.
Ta!
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Last Edit: Mar 29, 2016 19:33:08 GMT by arsonist
1979 Mk1 Passat Estate 1.6 LS
1996 Mk3.5 Fiesta 1.3 Classic
1997 Mk1 MX5 1.8i
2005 Mazda 3 TS
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Mar 29, 2016 22:46:50 GMT
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Glad this thread is still ticking along.
Get some penetrating oil on the bolt,leave it overnight and try a proper 6 sided hex socket rather than a bi hex,they often slip on worn bolt heads.
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Mar 29, 2016 23:31:05 GMT
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Irwin do a rounded bolt head removal socket set. I've used mine on plenty of rounded bolt heads and it's never failed. Cracking bit of kit and a must for anyone working on old cars/bikes etc
Google is your friend, Irwin bolt removal should bring a few up. It's a two part kit, one set gets you 5 sockets and a plastic case but if you want all 10 sizes you have to buy the add on. Well worth the money though
Cheers
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Hi there
wire brush the nut, soak in penetrating oil, knock on a 6 point 3/8 socket and it should come undone.
Cheers - mike
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Mar 31, 2016 19:26:05 GMT
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Cracking responses as usual guys, thanks very much. Popped into screwfix tonight and picked up the Irwin rounded bolt removal socket set and had a crack at removing the offending bolt. It came off almost first time with little effort. Great bit of kit! Managed to remove the thermo, replace the housing (minus the thermo) and do a full reverse flush before it got dark. Found a replacement thermo online and got that on order now, so once it arrives I can stick it in and fill up with coolant, and that's the coolant system done! Still need to crack on with finishing the fuel system but finding the time after work is a problem right now. Hoping to have all fuel lines done by mid-next week, then it will be tank fill time to see what's what. Best case scenario, she powers up and I can have a cheeky drive down the street (with likely dodgy brakes and clutch, but it's a quiet street). One of the transporter guys also left the car in gear when unloading so upon turning the key the car lurched forward; I'm taking that as a good sign! Cheers for the help again guys. Will let you know of progress when it happens! |
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1979 Mk1 Passat Estate 1.6 LS
1996 Mk3.5 Fiesta 1.3 Classic
1997 Mk1 MX5 1.8i
2005 Mazda 3 TS
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Okey doke! Sorry for the essay. Will post pics tonight.
So I got the whole fuel system up and running. Only one minor leak that I can see, directly from the fuel in to the filter. Probably just needs a slightly tighter clip.
Chucked in 6 liters of super unleaded and after a good amount of cranking from the key she fired up. Some strange things happened from here.
She idled (not great but OK) for a few mins, then stutters and dies. If I give her some revs at this point, I can keep the engine running and sounding OK until I take my foot off the gas. Then she dies again.
After a while of starting and idling, bit of gas and then dying, smoke started whisping up from the dipstick, and from the oil cap when opened. Inside the valve cover there was a bit more smoke, but not thick or too smelly - I could still see the valves etc.
Is this normal for an old engine, is it just old curse word burning off from the system as it's not run for so long, or is it cause for concern? I might add that at this point there was no coolant in the system as I'm still waiting for my thermostat. I didn't run the engine very long so shouldn't have been an overheating problem - temp gauge showed no high temp (although this might not work properly...)
While running I also tested the gears/clutch to see if there was any action. I couldn't get the car into any gear, the clutch seemed to do nothing. But trying to get the car into gear, pushing into first, the car had very slight forward motion as if trying to pull, but no actual pull. The car also lunged forward when starting up in reverse gear, with my foot all the way down on the clutch.
For the idling and smoke issue, what's best to test? I read that it might be the vacuum lines, so to check they're all connected up. Going to look at my dizzy and see if the mechanical weights part works and see if I can test the vacuum part. Also to note I've not done any timing other than line up dizzy/cam/crank by eye, as I've no idea what I'm doing!
I think the fun stuff might be starting.
Ta
Arsonist
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Last Edit: Apr 6, 2016 13:44:26 GMT by arsonist
1979 Mk1 Passat Estate 1.6 LS
1996 Mk3.5 Fiesta 1.3 Classic
1997 Mk1 MX5 1.8i
2005 Mazda 3 TS
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hi there
I wouldn't run it for more than a minute with no water.
The temp gauge wont work without the system being full of water.Its a water temp gauge, no water = no temp reading!!
Ignore the smoke until you have got the cooling system sorted and can run the engine up to temp properly.
It could just be moisture boiling off after it long lay up.
Cheers - mike
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Apr 11, 2016 23:08:18 GMT
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Thanks reliant. Makes perfect sense the temp gauge wouldn't work without water!
Got the coolant system running OK now, new 'stat installed and pipes don't appear to be leaking.
Then engine isn't happy though. Sometimes it will fire up, sometimes it will just stutter and die. Really needs coaxing into life every time I start, and always has to be on jump leads from my fiesta.
I've no idea if the timing is dodgy, or if the carb is knackered, as I know so little about both. I noticed the throttle body was fully open and audibly sucking in lots of air while just idling, but as I don't know how carbs work, I don't know if this is normal or not.
Might it be worth just buying a brand new carb and going from there? Don't want to spend too much money on one though, and literally no idea what I'd need!
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1979 Mk1 Passat Estate 1.6 LS
1996 Mk3.5 Fiesta 1.3 Classic
1997 Mk1 MX5 1.8i
2005 Mazda 3 TS
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Might be just a blocked carb jet.
You might be sucking up paint flakes or bits of rust from inside the tank too.
Normal to hear the carb sucking air in without a filter in place.
Smoke may be just the oil getting too hot or just residue from a long lay up,i wouldn't be running it without coolant either.
Clutch sounds like it has stuck to the flywheel..again not uncommon after a long time stood unused.
Can't see any reason it would lurch forward in reverse though,may be you were actually in a forward gear that would make sense.
The belt and braces cure which often works is to start the car in 2nd gear it will lurch and then start and drive.Drive it round with your foot pressed down on the clutch while varying the revs.You'll get a bang and it will free off hopefully.You need a bit of room or a nice quiet lane to do this of course !
You could also try wedging the clutch pedal right down with a suitable bit of timber and leaving it a few days.Not unheard of for that to do the trick.
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If you don't have one already Halfords do a super cheap and helpful fuel filter for carb applications. From memory they're £3 or £4. With it being clear they give a very good view if stuff is coming from the tank.  They're in smaller boxes on the shelves normally. I can't remember the part number for it but I'm sure the shop assistant wont mind you carefully opening a box to have a look. Have you looked into choke operation on the carb yet? I may have missed you documenting it on here already. I don't recall seeing a dashboard picture so don't know if its auto choke or not, if it's manual choke you'll have a little puller near the steering wheel which could help with cold starts. I imagine it needing a charge every time is because it doesn't get run long enough or fast enough to charge the battery, my 20vt has similar issues and it's only been sat in my garage for 3 months, I let it run up to temperature, shut it off and try to start it again but battery is dead, it just needs a good run really. Of course if the problem still persists after longer runs, clean electrical grounding points and get a voltmeter on the alternator. |
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jpr1977
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 658
Club RR Member Number: 18
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Cool thanks guys.
Yeah got a brand new fuel filter on, seems to be coming through nice and clean, not picked up any grit etc yet.
As far as I can see it looks like auto choak - no visible pull knob on the dash etc.
Will also try the wood/clutch method and then start in 2nd after a few days. Could be interesting with untested brakes!
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1979 Mk1 Passat Estate 1.6 LS
1996 Mk3.5 Fiesta 1.3 Classic
1997 Mk1 MX5 1.8i
2005 Mazda 3 TS
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the peirsburg auto chocks are known to be a pain to work on. so much so that most people just swap them out for a 32/34 weber. which is exactly what I'm doing with my scirocco. if you have the budget i would suggest changing it, a complete new kit on ebay is £267, although you can pick them up used for cheaper.
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1972 viva 'Sparky'
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really only a dribble left in, reckon a fresh tank will mix and flush the curse word out 
