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Removed the bonnet easily enough and decided the panel it mounts too needed some remedial work, when I first restored the car 27 years ago this was badly rusted and I replaced much of it and painted with stone chip, this gave a hammered finish and was flaking off in a few places. Cleaned it all up. After 27 years 100,000 miles and at least 15 years of everyday use it's suprisingly good, cleaned some of the welds I couldn't get to back then with the power file and gave it a brushed on coat of epoxy. Had a quick go on the bonnet with the stripping discs Blackpop racing reommended, they seem great, the TPA paint is usually horrible to get off but these seem to work fine. The pressed in louvres are going to be a challenge though, I have a old tin of paintstripper which hopefully will do the job. Finally after a couple of hours in thinners the paint washed off the hood latch strikers, I'm happy with the result.
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Last Edit: Aug 7, 2022 17:57:15 GMT by kevins
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Aug 11, 2022 19:46:44 GMT
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Stripped the bonnet lid, god awfull job, 4 discs, molten paint flying around, 30 something degrees, wearing breathing mask, ear defenders and goggles, needed a beer afterwards. It's much better than I thought, I was sure I had welded patches in the front corners but obviously not, just need to strip the louvres, tidy up the filler where the hump was lifted, and get it primed while it's still dry.
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Last Edit: Aug 11, 2022 19:49:02 GMT by kevins
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Aug 12, 2022 20:58:17 GMT
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Spent another evening on the bonnet lid, earlier in the day I painted the louvres with some old paint stripper from the times when it was allowed to be caustic enough to actually strip paint, Then scraped the top 2 layers off to get back to the original green paint. Which was soft enough to attack with this. This was after I had finished, it was getting somewhat bald. Wiped it over with thinners and started the filling. By then I had had enough, needed a shower and cold beer. Hopefully I will get it filled and primed before it rains next week. On the other cars, used the elan for work on wednesday, the heat doesen't seem to bother it at all now, and the mods I had made to the throttle linkage where it was snagging have made it much nicer to drive. Also went out for lunch today with my wife in the Range rover, for the first time I can remember she was impressed with one of my old cars, the air con works really well! Of course the next point was why haven't you fixed the aircon in mine......... That said many more summers like this and I will be fitting aircon to all of them, the chineese electricaly driven systems look quite an easy fit.
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Last Edit: Aug 12, 2022 21:09:23 GMT by kevins
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That is a lot of work.
But as usual, you need to do it right, to get it right.
Well done mate.
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Aug 16, 2022 15:38:09 GMT
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Not done as much as I would like to have, the heat of the last few days has been too much for me, as this is a hobby very much a case of stop when it's no longer fun. Bonnet is ready for primer now though, there was a bit of distortion which I managed to get most of the way out then a thin layer of filler over this and where the hump had been raised. I'm sure I'll find more once it's primed and cut back with a guide coat. For the inside it will just be a matter of touching up a few spots of surface rust and a quick blow over the existing paint which is generaly sound. Hopefully get some primer on it on Thursday.
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Last Edit: Aug 16, 2022 15:39:09 GMT by kevins
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Aug 17, 2022 10:23:42 GMT
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some news on the Minor front, since putting oil in the dashpot it has performed perfectly. In the true fashion of most of us now it's working fine my son wants to further modify it!
So lots of boxes have arrived and we now have to fit:
-heated front screen (apart form misting the old one is badly scratched (ESM sent the wrong rubber so can't fit it yet) -Sports exhaust -LCB manifold (mini one so needs modifying to fit) -Alloy wheels (minilite type which neither of us are that keen on but it's about all you can easily get) -New tyres (need to choose a size, they are 13" x 5.5 wheels so something like 165 or 185/70 gives the right rolling radius) -Spacers to fit the wheels (strangely they all seem to be around ET20 whereas the minor in std form is ET0 the spacers we have bought are turned from billet so we can turn them down to whatever thickness we want) -Twin Sus and re-build kits. -Heavy oil for the lever arm dampers
Still need to find or make some sort of airbox for the carbs and get some suitable wheel nuts too.
Screen wheels and tyres will be done before the winter the rest as and when.
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Aug 18, 2022 17:51:04 GMT
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IBeen painting today, brushed a topcoat on the hinge panel Then 3 coats of epoxy on the bonnet. I've also guide coated it there are definitely a few areas which need some more work though. Finally we seem to have a spider infestation. Looks like it's been there for years not 2 weeks.
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Aug 23, 2022 15:14:03 GMT
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After spending a weekend away experience the future for cars (borrowed Mustang MachE) I'm back to working on the bonnet lid, flatted it all back to get this. Not too bad, the worst areas were in the original panel which is probably the way it has always been, mostly areas stretched where the louvres are stamped in. Went over the worst bits with some a thin skim of fine filler. That will get flatted back and whole lot another couple of coats of epoxy. As it's on the 4 poster I also had a look at the oil leak from the diff, it's coming from the cover, some of the bolts seemed a bit loose so I nipped them up and we'll see how it goes, also secured the brake lines across the axle where most of the clips had broken. On the minor, Andrew said it seemed to be leaking oil, a quick look and it was obvious it was coming from the rocker cover (I don't think he tightened it enough when he did the valve clearances) while it was off I had another look at the valve guides (it smokes at idle), this is the valve on full lift. 66 From the top of the valve sping cap to the head face is 20mm, measuring our spare head and valve spring cap tells me there is virtully no clearance between the top of the guide and bottom of the spring cap, so the seals must be being plunged into by the spring cap and effectively pumping oil down the guides. I can think of 2 possible solutions: 1. run with no seals the minor didn't have any proper ones originaly, these are A+ ones. 2. Fit ford xflow umbrella seals which move up and fown with the valve and shroud the top of the guide, even if they do get pinched threre is a path for the oil to escape. Firstly though I will need to make a tool to get the valve caps off in situ. And finaly this is one of the new wheels for it.
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Last Edit: Aug 23, 2022 15:24:12 GMT by kevins
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Aug 23, 2022 22:44:34 GMT
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Can you not use the old trick of a length of thin rope or cord inserted down the spark plug hole so that when the piston is brought up, the valve is held in place, then use a suitable tool to hold the valve spring down while you remove the cap/collets, etc.?
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Yes I was thinking of that or compressed air through the plug hole, the tool I plan to make is something to compress the springs, it will probably be a lever that hooks around a old rocker shaft with the rockers removed.
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Is it really worth the extra hassle and time not to lift an A-series head ?
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Aug 24, 2022 11:43:48 GMT
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I think we have found out what is going on, both the engine shop that did the exhaust valve seats and myself on the inlets fitted the valve guides to the specified minor height, it turns out the A+ guides which carry the seals (minors only have a O ring on the valve stem) actually are set 2mm lower, so yes ultimately the head will need to be pulled, the guides knocked down a couple of mm (perhaps 3 for good measure!) and the bottoms ground back in the ports. We'll probably do this when we replace the carb and exhaust.
Might still take the seals out in the meantime to see what happens though.
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Aug 31, 2022 19:33:01 GMT
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Finaly got round to top coating the TR bonnet. Not too bad a bit of a rough area of dry spray on the drivers side, and a run on the bottom edge but they will flat out easily enough.
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Sept 6, 2022 18:36:13 GMT
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Bonnets back on, Flatted it back with 2000 grit then polished it, it looks fine but if you look closely a couple of areas could do with a bit more work perhaps one day I will get round to it. Even splashed out on some new washer jets as the old ones looked a bit manky and one was missing the correct nut. Might take it for a spin tomorrow to see what it looks like in daylight.
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Last Edit: Sept 6, 2022 18:38:19 GMT by kevins
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Sept 6, 2022 20:41:46 GMT
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At the bodyshop I work in, we usually de-nib with 2,000-grit regular wet & dry, then go over that with 3,000-grit 3M foam abrasive discs (usually used by hand), then machine polish, which eliminates most sanding marks. tinyurl.com/59xn88v6
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Sept 6, 2022 21:43:03 GMT
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Not seen them before they look to have potential, that said there's not any sanding marks, the area which needs a bit more work is the area of overspray along the RH edge, I kept well clear of the edges with the polisher and obviously didn't do enough by hand.
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Sept 7, 2022 11:30:44 GMT
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Is that a split in the corner of the front bumper? It could probably be repaired with flexible filler and texture paint...
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Sept 7, 2022 21:02:38 GMT
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No that's the factory joint😀 Fitted the heated screen to the minor today. Managed to break the old one getting it out but otherwise it went smoothly, bit of a faff getting the chrome trim in but got there in the end, we ran out of time to get the sealer in so that will have to be for another day. Also need to wire it up at some point.
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Last Edit: Sept 7, 2022 21:04:23 GMT by kevins
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Sept 7, 2022 21:32:26 GMT
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Luxury indeed! Is it similar to one on many modern Fords, where you can see the element grid in the sunlight?
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Yes it's the same technology, with the screen being more vertical they seem less noticible than our puma though.
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