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Sept 25, 2022 20:49:17 GMT
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Been on holiday to Cyprus, not as many classics as last time we were there (the week before lockdown started), I think the heat in the mid 30's might have made people gravitate to something with aircon. Got back and Rangie wouldn't start, simple problem of loose battery earth cable probably from repeatadly jump starting the neigbours dodgy modern Citroen. Ka MOT runs out today so gave it a good look over, only problems I could see were this which gave about 2" of rore and aft movement a the wheel might explain why it seemed to have more torque steer than I remember last time I drove it. Its only around 3 years/10,000 miles old but was a pattern arm, I splashed out £15 on a proper Ford bush which was pretty straight forward to fit. The other problem was one of the LED sidelight bulbs someone has fitted only one of the 5 LED's was still working, with the wheel off changing it was a five minute job, test is wednesday, fingers crossed. Also booked a windscreen relacement on the TR7 for tomorrow but Autoglass have yet to find a new one so that won't be happening.
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Last Edit: Sept 25, 2022 20:51:47 GMT by kevins
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Sept 26, 2022 7:59:31 GMT
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Which part of Cyprus did you go? I went there with the family for this years summer holidays. Had a great time. Didn't see many oldtimers either. Had expected to see more...
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Sept 26, 2022 11:42:47 GMT
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we went to Pafos, last time we went (Pafos as well) it was March and around the mid 20's, saw some lovely classics then (particularly liked a better than new 1600E). This time the only thing I saw was a mk1 cortina shell outside a bodyshop and a couple of XJ jags in Limasol.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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Sept 26, 2022 13:34:33 GMT
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We too were in Pafos. Was a first for us and we were very glad the accommodations were as described and in fact better. We'd consider going again, that's how nice of a time we had.
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Sept 28, 2022 14:41:44 GMT
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Ka failed MOT, apparently it has a worn rear wheel bearing, I've had a look and it's barely perceptible, it's the place I have been using for years and I found out this morning they have new testers and others have had debatable failures, got a recommendation on a new place nearer home to use in future. New bearing was only a tenner and it's a simple job so I'll do it anyway. I have started taking it apart and clearly someone has been there before me, the dust cover is chewed up and the hub nut was nowhere near the 235Nm it's supposed to be so perhaps not such a bad thing anyway. Typically this happens when someone services the brakes by removing the drum centre nut, you are supposed to undo the 4 bolts holding the stub axle on and not disturb the bearing.
Good news is he couldn't find anything else and commented how good it was generaly.
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Last Edit: Sept 28, 2022 14:49:02 GMT by kevins
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Sept 29, 2022 18:56:51 GMT
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Wheel bearing kit from ECP cost a whole £4.60, apparantly they are part of their obsolete parts clearance, probably means I'll be doing it again next year but 7she needs it next week and it was all I could get, only takes 1/2 hour to change anyway. Also took a look at the front suspension arm again, the bush had started to walk out, comparing it with the old one the problem was obvious. The new OE ford part on the left the one I took out on the right, obviously a pattern part and the bottom is a different shape and upon checking the arm it is also to this form with a taper in the bottom of the cavity. This all prevents the bush from going fully home. 10 minutes on the lathe did this to the Ford one. Pressed it in with bearing lock and 3 tack welds on the top flange, it's not moving again! Much better to drive now in fact It's a hoot to drive, torque steer it's always had has all but dissapeared, the pattern bush must have been far to flexible even when it was new. Re-test in the morning. Also been using the TR for the last few days, with a good clean up and a polish it's going to look pretty tidy, even entered it in a show in a couple of weeks time. Would be nice if Autoglass can find a windscreen before then too.
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2022 19:01:19 GMT by kevins
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Sept 29, 2022 20:46:13 GMT
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Ricky Evans Motorsport list a heated screen for the TR
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2022 20:47:44 GMT by merlind100
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Sept 29, 2022 21:12:28 GMT
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Thanks for that, lets hope they can't find a std one!
Not a bad price at £240 either, Ford want £900 for one for the street ka.
They do one for the elan as well, might be easier than getting the heater to work effectively.
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Last Edit: Sept 29, 2022 21:23:39 GMT by kevins
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Sept 30, 2022 17:58:57 GMT
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It passed today still with a minor fault, he insisted when the hazards are on that the indicator warning light in the cluster should flash as well as the red light in the switch on top of the steering column, it's always done that, I'm pretty sure legaly you only need one warning light and it's never been an issue before, I'll be going elsewhere in future.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,237
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Sept 30, 2022 22:51:39 GMT
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It passed today still with a minor fault, he insisted when the hazards are on that the indicator warning light in the cluster should flash as well as the red light in the switch on top of the steering column, it's always done that, I'm pretty sure legaly you only need one warning light and it's never been an issue before, I'll be going elsewhere in future. My understanding for Hazards was one telltale light but it has to flash, indicator telltale can be audible or visual (or both)
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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The light in the cluster flashes with the indicators and there is the noise, with the both the hazard switch on top of the shroud is illuminated and flashes but the indicator one doesen't as well this is his issue, a colleague had a few similar things on his boxter there as well.
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Oct 27, 2022 17:55:57 GMT
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Been using the TR for my 1 day a week in the office, today the heater and radio still worked fine but todays suprise and delight was the main and dipped beam didn't work. Lights popped up and the main beam flashed though. A look at the wiring diagram (always carry one of these in a 70's BL car!) determined it could only be the common feed to the dip switch on the column, sure enough unplugging the inline connector under the dash and closing the female part of the connector up fixed it. (The switch was replaced recently should have tweaked them all then)
Also found the link wire for the headlamp flash which actuates the lift motor fouled on the shroud and had been pulled off, bending that to clear and re-fitting it means I now also have fully functioning healamp flash for the first time in years.
Oh and for some reason after many years of not working the coolant level sensor has decided to start working too!
Only other thing which has happened is the mx5 has developed a coolant drip, doesent seem to use any when driving and the level hasn't noticibly dropped but definitely a drip of coolant from the undertray drain hole. Need to get the undertray off to be sure but it looks like it's coming out of the o ring where a steel coolant pipe goes in the back of the waterpump, might be a while before I fix that, looks like at least the pas pump and possibly the exhaust manifold has to come off to get to it. At the moment I am up to my neck in diy and decorating, fittng new oak doors(12 of the damn things!) and building a hot greenhouse with home made wood fired underfloor heating for my wife.
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Last Edit: Oct 27, 2022 18:09:28 GMT by kevins
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Oct 30, 2022 18:14:39 GMT
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Got a few minutes to look at the minor today, it has a few issues:
1. It drives fine up to about 4000rpm then backfires and won't rev much higher.
2. Smokes at idle, my fault because we have A+ valve guides fitted at A series height so the cap hits the seals.
3. Vibration at around 50 - 60 mph.
Looking at it today the first one is I think simple the point at which is misfires the megajolt loses it's pip signal, after my son changed the alternator he has put the crank sensor back on with about a 3mm gap, it should be less than 1!
Second one will involve popping the valve springs off and knocking the inlet guides down 3mm each then fitting new seals
3rd one we suspect it's the prop, plan is to jack it up on the 4 poster strap the front down and run it up to check it is from the rear,check the prop runs true and then perhaps try it without the rear wheels, if it seems to be the prop we might see if the jubilee clip trick helps.
Hopefully get it all done this week.
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Last Edit: Oct 31, 2022 19:10:41 GMT by kevins
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Oct 31, 2022 19:42:34 GMT
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Started on the minor today, first thing was the crank position sensor, it was misfiring at around 4000rpm and the pip light on the megajolt started dropping out at the same time, I'm pretty sure it is a crank sensor issue. Sure enough when I got a look at it the sensor has moved backwards and away from the trigger wheel. The bracket is a aftermarket part meant for a mini, but it had to be moved up to fit a minor, it uses quite oversize slots which mean the sensor can move around, it has to be spaced forward which reduces it's stiffness and it's very close to the fan belt. (About 5mm not as bad as the picture looks). So I removed the whole lot. Made a new bracket and test fitted it, this time with only a hole for the sensor and a slot in the bottom mounting bolt for adjutment. Test fit. Welded a web in the bottom for stifness and painted it. Will put it all back together tomorrow and hopefully have a look at the valve stem seals. Any one need a triggerwheels.com sensor bracket for a mini?
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bolted that all back together at lunchtime, revs up fine now, tappets next, probably Thursday now though Wednesday is going to work day.
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Got some time on the minor today, firstly ran some sealer between the new screen seal and body, all went easily enough. Next was the valve stem seals, when I fitted thd valve guides I fitted the A+ones which carry a seal but didn't realise they need to sit 2.5mm lower than minor ones, this has meant with the higher lift cams the seals have been hitting the spring cap and pumping oil down them. So using my home made tool and a length of soft rope I popped the springs off. 8 Tapped the guide down 2.5 mm using an old guide and copper mallet, then fitted the new seal. Popped the spring back on and after 40 minutes they were all done. You can see the opened up old seal here against a new one. My sons gone out in it and no phone call so I assume all is OK.
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Last Edit: Nov 3, 2022 19:41:52 GMT by kevins
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Well he's done 60 miles in it today and reports all is well so we'll call that fixed.
Next things to do are sort out vibration at around 5omph + I suspect the prop we will run it up on the 4 poster with wheels off the ground and see if there is anyhing bent, if not try a jubilee clip on the prop, also need to wire in the heated screen and fit new engine mounts.
Also need to give the Range Rover a once over before we go on holiday in it.
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Been busy building a greenhouse, so cars have been restricted to driving them.
The minor broke down, strange one, when the oil in the carb dashpot drops it becomes virtually undriveable, topping it up resumes normal performance, Basically the carb is worn out, the piston actualty rattles in the carb body at idle, good reason to get on with fitting the twin carbs and LCB exhaust, probably have to wait until after Andrew's exams though.
Finaly got the windscreen fitted to the TR7, no problems, only thing is the rear view mirror dipping doesen't work anymore but I haven't driven it in the dark for a long time so it may not be related to the screen change.
On the Range Rover it's being used a fair bit, we spent a week touring Norfolk in it with no dramas, there is a slight knock from the back, could be the A frame ball joint or perhaps the exhaust knocking on something, needs it's MOT straight after xmas don't think it will need much though, I'll give the obvious a once over change the steering damper bushes that were an advisory last year take it and see what comes back.
Lotus hasn't been used for the last 6 weeks as I have been doing the greenhouse woodwork under it (it's on the ramp), moved it today though and it started easily, hopefully I'll use it over xmas.
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Just arrived home on a recovery truck!
We went to Thorpeness for aternoon tea in the range rover, (around 75 miles) got there with no problems then on the way home I said how well it was running, the within 5 minutes it cut out a 60mph on the A14, managed to coast to the end of a slip road, quick check with a spare spark plug and no spark at plugs but spark at king lead, both the cap and rotor arm look fine, and the rotor arm is turning but it must be one of them, I'll get the TR out tomorrow and try swapping parts until it goes. Also need to buy spares for every thing ignition related to carry in the car, probably could have had it going in a few minutes.
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As it was the easiest place to start I popped the rotor arm out of the TR in and lo and behold it fired right up like nothing had happened, ordered a new Intermotor one from the local motor factors, should be there in the morning. Put the one out of the Range Rover in the TR and now that won't go so it's definitely the rotor arm, at least it's lighter to push around.... Main thing of note is it's a expensive "superior quality" one from the distributor doctor, and around a year and 3 or 4000 miles old.
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Last Edit: Dec 5, 2022 16:11:26 GMT by kevins
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