|
|
|
Fitted the £12 secondhand water pump to the TR today, it was meant as a temporary solution while I work out how to rebuild the original, but actually it seems to work perfectly so it might stay a bit longer. I stripped the original, firstly pushed off the hub. Then pushed the bearing and impellor out. Obviously been leaking for ages, the shaft is supposed to.be in a dry area but is heavily rusted. Pushed the impellor off, it all came appart easily enough. One thing I did notice is the seal on the bearing has reacted with something. Looking around it seems you can get a similar bearing but the bearing part is about 10mm shorter, given I don't have the fan on the front it should be OK. For the seal it seems a fergusson tractor one is the same dimensions.
|
|
Last Edit: Aug 1, 2020 22:07:12 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
|
|
Water pump seal and bearing will come in around £40 a Buick 300 water pump which fits and gives me more clearance to the fan is £43 inc shipping anx vat from rock auto in the states, so I will probably do this.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Not been doing much on the cars lately, aside from work the main task has been pulling a massive ivy tree off the car port, so far I have taken 6 1 ton bags full of it to the tip 2 at a time in the range rover and we haven't even started on the trunk yet. One of the reasons for this is my son's vurtually new stihl chainsaw has packed up, a diphram in the carb is split because the backing plate was bent from new, a new carb is on the way. Also dragged my old pushbike out, new tyres, some oil and adjusting the brakes seem to have made it roadworthy. It was quite a good bike (claude butler) in it's day, that day being 30+ years ago! If I get round to it I might strip it and repaint it over the winter, I have a couple of litres of not quite the right blue for the TR which should do it.
|
|
Last Edit: Aug 5, 2020 17:13:21 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
|
Given the weather I was this weekend tasked with looking at thec A/C on the mx5 and range rover neither of which work.
First up the mazda, evacuated it but it wouldn't hold a vacuum, couldn't find the leak so I soldered up a a fitting which woukd allow me to put some lpg i robbed from the bbq in through an autogas filter. A quick squirt of this showed the leak to be in a pipe behind the bumper beside the radiator, probably repairble but more work that I had time for.
Conclusion it all works electrically, only seems to have the one leak despite the condensor looking in a terrible state and could be repaired with a splice lock.
So I tried the same on the range rover, with the same result, this time a leak from the top of the condensor. On this though it is a copper condensor which is easily accessed by removing the slam panel, took this off and was able to solder the leak up easily enough. It now held a vacuum and a pressure, so I added some oil, started it up let enough lpg in to get the low side to 40 psi which gave a high side of 200psi which is a bit on the low side. Still no A/C though, I think the expansion valve is stuck open so a new one is on its way (£30 all in), fortunatelly it's pretty easy to change them on these, the evaporator dropping out from under the dash. So again mixed messages, it holds the gas ok, all works electrically but does not cool.
Once I have got them both fixed and working on LPG I will probably empty them replace the driers and fill them with drop in refridgerent.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 14, 2020 19:50:51 GMT
|
Was going to change the expansion valve on the range rover but looks like I will be fixing the ka instead. Lucy had said it was rattling, took it out and there was something quite loose on the suspension, had a look and one of the lower ball joints is well and truly shot. Thats the new arm I fitted only 2 years and less than 8000 miles ago, I can't rembember if it came from euro car parts or ebay, either way it's another cr@p pattern part, I hate doing jobs twice, at least the bolts should come undone easily enough I suppose.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 19, 2020 18:48:06 GMT
|
Only took about 30 mins to fit the KA control arm, the not so old one was completely shot. Still something knocking from behind the driver (think it might be something in the hood cover)but nothing like it was and I can't find any play in any of the suspension now, needs it's MOT in a month or so we'll see if he finds anything, will need a couple of new front tyres soon (almost down to tread depth markers) but otherwise it seems pretty good.
Otherwise been doing house / garden jobs, the ivy mountain has all gone (8 1ton bags to the tip in the range rover) and the fence it destroyed is more or less re-built so not much else on the cars.
|
|
Last Edit: Aug 19, 2020 18:50:43 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2020 13:58:47 GMT
|
I've finished re building the car port, chopping down trees and re-finishing furniture, so before re-tiling the downstairs bog and decorating bedrooms becomes a "priority" I plan to catch up on some car jobs. The Street ka needs an mot at the end of sept, given it a going over, only things I can find are a wiper blade falling appart and the front tyres are getting close to wear markers, a new set have duly been fitted. Used the tr for a few days, it was a bit lumpy when driving slowly, a slight richen of the mixture and topping up the dash pots seems to have resolved this, though the secondhand water pump i got hold of during locldown is also leaKing, need to take a closer look to see if it is the pump or one of the hoses, it only leaks when it's cold. On the minor I have done a bit more on the bootlid, cut out the rust in the skin . Made up a repair section and cut it too size. Then weled it in one spot at a time hopefully I will get the other half done tomorrow lunchtime, then I will split the inner and outer and repair the inner, clean up the surface rust and put it all back together again.
|
|
Last Edit: Aug 27, 2020 14:05:50 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
|
Finished repairing the bottom of the skin. Then drilled the welds along the sides and split the skin and frame. The frame is pretty rusty accros the bottom and top, sides are not too bad, I'm thinking of doing away with the double skinned rust traps accross the top and bottom by welding the frame directly to the skin.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2020 11:18:24 GMT
|
just taken a look at the TR waterpump, it's not the pump leaking it is the gasket I had to make during lockdown, good job its easy enough to change.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2020 15:47:08 GMT
|
ordered a new water pump gasket, hopefully that will be here next week.
Then I fitted the new wheels and tyres to the street ka, took it for a drive they seem fine but there is still a knocking noise, fortunately it now does it when bouncing the front corner so it was easy for me to feel around underneath while Andrew bounced it, turns out it is the drop links, another Sh!t part from euro car parts, they are only 2 years / 10,000 miles old, it think they were their own brand parts because the was all they had in stock at the time. I looked at some other places there must have been 30 odd suppliers to choose from, in the end I settled on a pair of TRW ones as I know they are an OEM supplier so hopefully will have some sort of quality control. No point booking It's MOT until this is done though!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2020 22:46:38 GMT
|
Crappy parts seems to be a recurring theme, sadly.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2020 18:28:34 GMT
|
As I need parts for the TR and KA I Decided to fit the new A/C expansion valve to the Range Rover. It came appart easily enough after half an hour it looked like a bomb had gone off behind the dash. A couple of unexpected issues Firstly there is rust in the bolt in panel which covers the hole where the lhd pedal box would go. Secondly an old mouse nest in the felt, a mass of old paper, sweet wrappers etc. The mouse nest went up the vacuum cleaner but cleaning up the rust with a burr resulted in a hole. Gave it all a coat of converter. And decided to make a bolt in patch for the hole. Bolted it in with plenty of pu sealer. There was also an indication of why all the ac wiring had been removed this is the hose it would have rested against. It's been scorched, I wonder if the mouse also had something to do with it. After this it all went bacķ together OK, someone had been there before as there were green O rings in the connections. New generic valve was identical except the sensor tube was longer, easy to work with when its £200 cheaper. All back together now. With the exception of the duct on the drivers side which cracked again so I repaired it as I have the 2 top corners which seem to be holding up. Not tryed filling it yet, might have a go on Monday.
|
|
Last Edit: Aug 29, 2020 18:34:40 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
Aug 30, 2020 20:19:38 GMT
|
Been looking at the father in-laws juddering 2004 1.9jtd Doblo again, to re-cap it judders around 1400rpm when cold, so far we have replaced all the parts known to be worn (clutch, dmf, alternator pulley) tried blanking egr, checked and no fault codes, recently passed mot emissions easily. He even spoke too a fiat dealer who told him they had 2 in the car park the same and they can't find out why either!
After some research several people seem to have had success with changing the MAP sensor so given they are only £20 we fitted one, old one was full of sooty muck, it was hot so we will find out if it worked tomorrow.
If not I'm begining to lose the will to live with the damn thing.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 31, 2020 19:06:50 GMT
|
Well the map sensor made no diffrence to hhe Doblo, I'm running out of ideas (appart from a can of petrol and a match), it's too old for torque to read the signals, I did wonder if the vnt could be sticking I guess I could try locking it in one position, anyone any better ideas?
|
|
|
|
goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,887
|
|
Sept 5, 2020 20:02:48 GMT
|
I've been meaning to post on this for a while, you're doing a good job of keeping this fleet on the road Keep at it!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 5, 2020 20:35:47 GMT
|
Thanks, nice to hear people appreciate my ramblings. I'm on holiday in wales for a week but had some time friday to do a couple of jobs. Firstly re fitted the tr water pump, used a new gasket ans wellaseal, it comes with a load of health warnings so must be good!. Akso got round to fitting a cockpit brace to the mazda, these were standard on late uk 1.8's but not the jdm eunos ours is, suprisingly it noticebly improves the way it drives. Need to do something about the end caps, the seet belt ones are easy enough nut the brace ones are scarce even secondhand, thinking of having a go at cad / 3 d printing parts, my son is already pretty good at it so he's going to help. Talking of which he passed his driving test on friday , originally defered from April, now got to find an affordable way of insuring this for him. (He can drive my company car so it's not too urgent)
|
|
Last Edit: Sept 5, 2020 20:44:06 GMT by kevins
|
|
|
|
Sept 15, 2020 17:55:07 GMT
|
Parts arrived for thd ka while I was on holiday so yesterday I fitted them. Old and new links. One problem though the new ones have larger ball joints, hopefully means they will last longer but gives a problem when fitting the abs cable retainer. On the old ones: And the new trw ones. I tried modifying one and messed it up so had to weld some wire to it, the other I managed to open up, both were pretty rusty so I will try to get a new pair and modify both by opening up and welding a new piece in the bottom. All back together, no clonks or knocks. I also spent some time on holiday learning to use the onshape cad package so I can produce 3d models and print parts in plastic, with my son's help I got on pretty well. So far I have managed switch blankings and an ac switch surround and lnob for the range rover and end caps for the mazda cockpit brace, next step is to print them and see if they fit.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 15, 2020 19:39:25 GMT
|
this is what I have manged to draw up so far. brace end cap knob for air con thermostat bezel for aircon theromostat, plan is to fill in the text and triangles with paint. Also filled the TR up with coolant today, nothing's leaking yet!
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 17, 2020 19:11:12 GMT
|
A few odds and ends today. Firstly the breather on the TR hits the bonnet lid, no point painting it until this is sorted out. Took a spare one, cut the pipe off the top and welded a new one on exiting from the side. Once I had recovered from the fumes of 30 odd years of prime Rover sludge burning off the inside I Cleaned up the welds and painted it. And on the car. All the LPG stuff will be going when I have emptied the tank which will tidy things up. Thenji tidied up the passenger footwell, after 40 years of wear and being set on fire the trim on the kick panel was past hope. Cut a new board. Then found an old seat cover in the attic and cut the back out to cover it with. Fitted to the car and the carpet which was falling off glued down as well. Then took it for a drive, still no leaks so may go for a longer drive tomorrow lunchtime.
|
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 18, 2020 5:35:37 GMT
|
Whats the reason for removing the LPG? Peter
|
|
|
|