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Range rover passed MOT, a bit of an issue with emissions on LPG (Hadn't re-adjusted it after cleaning mixer and fixing leak in plenium) but fortunatlley the test equipment had a fault and it had to be re-tested anyway, a quick tweak of the mixture screw got it within limits.
Otherwise he was impressed by it's overall condition.
Next one will be the TR in april, as its 40 in August and it only does a thousand miles most years this will probably drop to once every 2 or 3 years.
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The mx5 has had a strange stumble around 2500rpm in high gears for a few months now as it hasn't been used much I didn't do much about it. Using it for the last couple of days it has developed into a misfire. Changed he plugs with no effect but a set of leads fixed it, its actually smoother and more responsive accross the entire range of speeds and loads, might even explain why it struggled with the emissions at he last MOT.
Steering is pretty good now but for every day use I think I'll set it to parallel the slight toe in makes it a bit too responsive.
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
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The mx5 has had a strange stumble around 2500rpm in high gears for a few months now as it hasn't been used much I didn't do much about it. Using it for the last couple of days it has developed into a misfire. Changed he plugs with no effect but a set of leads fixed it, its actually smoother and more responsive accross the entire range of speeds and loads, might even explain why it struggled with the emissions at he last MOT. Steering is pretty good now but for every day use I think I'll set it to parallel the slight toe in makes it a bit too responsive. Leads have always been a problem on them, had at least one set on warranty when I had a year old one many moons ago. Nice easy fix. James |
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I thought they looked like the originals perhaps not then.
£25 and 5 minutes to fix was certainly welcome.
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Jan 17, 2020 22:08:56 GMT
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My wife had one if her crafting coverns this evening so I was sent to the garage, not that I objected. Spent most of the evening on the minor. Firstly fitted the filter king I bought a few weeks ago, its always had problems with flooding despite a new needle and float, the aftermarket fuel pump seems to put out around 3 psi, it should be less than 2, this will regulate the pressure. I made a bracket which used existing holes in the bulkhead.  Next up was drilling and tapping the inlet manifold for the servo take off, took the carb off, plugged the inlet tracts drilled and tapped it out, vacuumed any debris out removed the plugs and put it all back together. I've also sorted out the servo mounting so it's just the brake pipes now.  |
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Last Edit: Jan 17, 2020 22:11:11 GMT by kevins
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Jan 19, 2020 21:18:45 GMT
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Spent today trying to stop water leaks, both the ka and mazda have sodden footwells, passenger side on mazda, drivers on ka.
Mazda seemed to be leaking around the header, both latches were loose and the drain holes at the side of the header seal were blocked so I cleaned them out, time will tell if this has helped.
On the ka I managed to get the carpet up in the drivers footwell, thankfully the floors are fine but It was then very clear the water was running down the bulkhead behind the throttle pedal. I had already had a look in this area and it all looked fine. I took the coolant reservoir off and had a dig at what looked perfect sealer only to find it was loose with surface rust underneath, this is an area where water pools so looks like it could be the culprit. Cleaned it up treated with converter, re-sealed and painted it, hopefully no more leaks. It's now sitting outside with a de-humidifier and fan heater in it, already tipped a litre of water out after 12 hours, seems to be drying out nicely.
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Last Edit: Jan 19, 2020 21:19:34 GMT by kevins
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Jan 27, 2020 21:11:33 GMT
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Used the range rover for a family weekend away, mostly on petrol, seem to be getting to the bottom of the issues, 20mpg, drives really well and the idle is stable if a little uneven which is improving with doses of injector cleaner.
There is one new issue though, the 2 to 1 downshifts have occasionally got noisy and juddery. A bit of googling indicates it could be line pressure which is comtrolled by the kickdown cable, thinking back the problem started after I had the plenium off and removed the cables.... looks like this one is self inflicted.
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Range rover is #$@$ed. Got half way to work and lost all drive in the forward gears, currently awaiting a AA recovery truck.
Looks like I either need to learn to rebuild auto trans, buy a secondhand one or splash out £800 on a recon one....
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Jan 28, 2020 13:43:53 GMT
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 Took about 3 hours but they got me home. For now I will park it out of the way until I decide what to do, options I've come up with: Pay local trans place to fix it - rough estimate £1500, bit rich for me and no idea how good they are. Fit a ashcroft re-man trans myself, cost around £800 Fit a secondhand one myself - most places seem to want around £300 for one. Convert it to a manual, better fuel economy but a bigger job. Not sure what to do yet, probably needs a bit more research. |
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I think I've decided the only real option is to splash out and buy a re-man one from Ashcroft.
We need to rationalise the fleet but this one I want to keep so its worth doing properly. it looks like either the Lotus or the TR will go, both need some cosmetic tidying first though, so it might not be until 2021.
Only problem is I hate selling cars.
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eurogranada
Europe
To tinker or not to tinker, that is the question...
Posts: 2,556
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I think I've decided the only real option is to splash out and buy a re-man one from Ashcroft. We need to rationalise the fleet but this one I want to keep so its worth doing properly. it looks like either the Lotus or the TR will go, both need some cosmetic tidying first though, so it might not be until 2021. Only problem is I hate selling cars. I think that is really the most sensible choice. Although doing the rebuild yourself could be a great opportunity to learn, it also holds the risk of it not being spot on. Then again we often do things better as a hobbyist as we work on our own stuff and get to suffer the consequences of our actions. Autoboxes can be daunting. But with a good manual... Problem is that this usually also means that the project takes (a lot) more time. So for piece of mind and time involved I think the rebuilt box replacement is the way to go... Glad to read you're keeping the RR. I love it. In all honesty if I had to shift one of your cars, the TR would be the one to go first. The lotus probably has a better value as well, which could go either way to saving it for that reason or selling it for that reason. Glad I don't have this problem. ;-) |
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Which one to keep comes down to sentimentality, we have done over 100,000 miles in the TR with numerous holidays etc, the lotus only 20 thousand or so mostly only to local shows. Also I feel much safer using the TR on motorways etc as it has reasonable crash protection.
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The other issue is space, we already have 7 cars, with the kids getting partners and Andrew hankering after a 110 defender it's getting a bit crowded.
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Jan 31, 2020 22:29:14 GMT
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I've decided to splash out and fit a new Ashcroft transmission, I'll also give the LT230 transfer box a good going over it seems quiet enough and all works but the selector is virtually seized and there a couple of oil weeps.(intermediate shaft o ring is main one I think), the exhaust y pipe will probably need replacing as well.
The workshop manual has drawings for the fixtures to hold the transfer box and gearbox on a transmission stand so I will spend a few days making these first. Before I start I will also finish fitting the servo to the minor so we have a second roadworthy 4 seat car, also try to fix the Ka which is still leaking water in around the pedals (beginning to think it could be the replaced windscreen) and mazda which seems to be leaking around the front of the doors.
So probably a month or so (and about a grand) before I get the Range Rover done.
Been using the Mazda every day now, with its correct suspension / steering geometry and new plug leads it drives fantastically, steering feels great and engine pulls smoothly from Idle, lets hope it lasts.
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Minor servo is in and seems to be working ok, its plumbed into only the front circuit as it needs the brake balance moving forward with the disc brakes.  Thing I've found the ka water leak a 6" long rust hole where the plastic bulkhead traps water.  Not entirely sure wheather to glue a repair in or risk welding it, it is double skinned so no sound deadening etc directly behind it, might try a tack the cooling etc any better ideas? |
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Last Edit: Dec 20, 2020 22:32:21 GMT by kevins
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Yesterday I gave it all a coat of hydrate 90, and late last night some etch primer(mainly to get it inside the slot I had cleaned up the rusty area too.  As my daughter needs it to get to work on moday I was up at 6.30 this morning and welded a piece in couldn't fully seam it under the a/c pipes and it's a bit untidy as i did as series of tacks to limit heat build up, but its in, fills the hole and strong. Got a teaspoon out to mix up some epoxy primer abnd gave it a coat.  Its now sitting there with a fan heater force drying it so hopefully I can seal it with some pu from toolstation later today.  |
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Painted the ka with some topcoat  Then after that had dried sealed it up with this.  Should be able to brush some wax over it and put it back together tommorow. This morning the mazda had a puddle in the passenger footwell, the water seems to be leaking past the door seal where the dog leg at the bottom of the screen, I had some self adhesive seal strip left over from something else so I stuck some of that under the original seal to push it tighter against the frame and giude any water which leaks past forward.  |
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Good move on the Ashcroft box. That would have been my choice as well.
Don't want to teach sucking eggs, but if plumbing in a servo to a previously non-servo motor, check brake cylinder seals.
Fitted one to my old 2A, which was fine for about a week then blew both rear cylinder seals on approach to a red light.
Crawled home in low box and fitted new cylinders all round. Taught me a lesson!
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Everything is new but given the quality of pattern parts nowadays not a 100% guarantee. I've also copied petes corsair and only boosted the front so hopefully the vauxhall calipers should be up too the job!
Spoke to Ashcroft and as I can't find a serial number on my trans plus I'm in no great rush best course seems to be to give them it to re-con, all I've hot to do is take it out...
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Ka is back together, hopefully it will stay dry now, when the weather is better I will take the other side appart and spray some wax around as well, took it for a drive for the first time in a while forgot what a hoot this is to drive.
To do this I had to get the minor out, parked by the roadside for 10 minutes a gritter lorry came along and gritted it for me!
Also fix what is now a major oil leak on the TR before I start on the Range Rover most of it seems to be coming from the crank seal the spare pulley has a groove worn in it and I don't think the one on the car is much better so I have ordered Speedi Sleeve to fit as well.
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