|
|
|
Jun 30, 2013 17:06:45 GMT
|
Someone put bitumen in the trailer and but it up wind of my window so it is no wonder I have been suffering when the wind has been blowing from a certain direction!  Back on topic, and up wind of the trailer. Immobilizer and it's wiring was in a rather interesting place which was above the centre air vents but below the middle part of the dash! Which ment having to remove upper and lower dash panels along with switches etc before being able to remover the middle section. I have removed the metal immobilizer protection cage entirely as it will no-longer be using the unit for the immobilizer but purely as remote entry and central locking. Also as the unit worked in-between a couple of the sensors and the ecu.  Here is the offending bit of equipment! There is probably something else it switches on and off but I will be working on that over the next few days! The largest of the plugs was directly into the cars wiring loom, the smallest which is only 2 wires for a simple led next to the instrument cluster. Four wires coming from the immobilizer unit went to a plug behind the glovebox before heading into the engine bay.  The plug and wiring behind the glovebox to the engine bay to sensors which are nolonger there has been carefully removed so that leaves five less wires to deal with under the bonnet. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
With my body making work on the car impossible, it was time to hit the
books both paper and electronic.
I think that I will be able to bypass the Rockwell immobilizer for the purpose
of fault finding to getting the old girl running, or even remove it entirely.
However if removed entirely there will be no remote entry or immobilizer,
which I think the insurance might frown upon!
But if the insurance company new how easy it was to set or programme the
bloody thing they might either put the premium up or tell me to replace it!
And there is a slight difference between the factory service manual and the
actual cars wiring which I can work with.
I will modify the immobilizer if this Rockwell manufactured one goes back, I
will make the Ariel a lot bigger so it's not hidden deep in the dash and gets a
better signal if stood further away. (It's an easy mod to do)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
When I had five minutes on Wednesday I pulled out the American licence plate bracket and a show plate which is the same size as the US plate but is totally illegal for the use on British roads. This is just to see where it might be best to fit the new front plate. First in the standard placement (sticky tape holding it on)  Then upturning the bracket and correcting the plate , and held on with string.   And the comparison between the illegal show plate and a standard licence plate (And the standard plate is damaged which is why it needs replacing) You can plainly see the difference in the size of the font.  When I was at Sewells Auto Spares the chaps let me use a blank of the only other British standard road legal licence plate on the American licence plate bracket for you to compare.   I might need a little rethink on the plate bracket. The main reason I was at the shop was to pick up the new rear springs for the car. So back under the car tomorrow. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
This power splittter which is usually mounted on the fan shrouds behind the radiator fans is pop riveted to the bottom of the lower radiator support this is so If I need to remove parts of the main wiring loom I have less hassle.  I had a rethink on the mounting of the radiator fans, and removed the red painted angle Iron an bits of aluminium. The fixings came with the fans but need to go through the radiator fins. It is a lot cleaner looking but I was worried about damaging the fins using the kit.   I think I can tick the cooling fans off my list now. I will be sorting out a couple of damaged cables for indicators and the front fog lights before fitting the front bumper back on for good hopefully tomorrow! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 23, 2013 21:40:09 GMT
|
The coil spring insolators/seats have been bought off Rockauto Part Number........1997 DODGE NEON 2.0L L4 SOHC MONROE 904948 Coil Spring Insulator (8708.80.9900) Price EA...................................................£ 7.54 Quantity...................................................2 Total........................................................£ 15.08 Discount...................................................£ -0.75 Shipping FedEx International Economy..........£ 21.63 VAT (Value Added Tax)...............................£ 7.19 Order Total................................................£ 43.15 So the company is NJ and the last I update stated the order was sent to TN I was thinking "here I go again where my car parts are better travelled than me!" But as luck would have it, it landed at stansted on Monday and was delivered today.  I little check to make sure they are the right ones by sitting the coil springs on them. They are so thats tomorrows job weather permitting swap out the cut springs with the new ones and these rubber seats.  As I started back on the front bumper I noticed one of the wing brackets was damaged.When I was looking for the old one which was less damaged I came across these aftermarket ones which I had bought for my previous mk1 neon.  To compare the factory fitted and these aftermarket ones, I do prefer the clear to the amber ones. I might swap them over after the car has been put back on the road and the body work has been resprayed.  The bumper skin has all but two bolts put in and holding it on(two tabs that are attached to the top of the bumper skin that swivel down behind the bumper bar) The new fog lights are fitted, but a connection needs replacing, I ran out of spade connectors again! I will pick some up tomorrow when I go for more indicator bulbs.  So a quick check to make sure all is well once the bulbs have been fitted then that is another one ticked off the list. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm fairly sure that if your car is an import with a plate recess or mounting that prevents the use of a standard UK plate, you are allowed to use a smaller font. My Japanese import Sera used appropriately sized plates without any issues - so, if you can source a USA-spec rear bumper and plate mounting as well, you can use US-sized plates legally. Just don't mess with the font or spacing beyond the size reduction allowed.
I did look it up at the time, and it was a defined exemption for import cars (but the crucial bit being the 'space available for the plate', as who knows whether it's an import or not when it's on the road).
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 24, 2013 22:50:04 GMT
|
I had a problem with the front left indicator, there was power getting to it and it wasn't lighting up. bulb was okay and so was the holder. I cut back the rubber coating on the wires only to find the copper was black. I trace the wiring back a good way till I found a good bit of copper. Due to the degradation of the copper wire there was enough of a volt drop to the point were it was not enough to light the bulb. This was also found to be causing problems with one of the front fog lights, this could be the reason for other electrical faults! The lights are now all fully functional so another ticked off the list. Suspension The correct coil spring seat on the left with the incorrect one which was bought in error which wasted money and delayed me a few weeks to save up for the correct ones.  A comparison between the old cut springs and the new ones.  One of the struts with the new spring and coil spring seat.   After putting every thing back it wasn't until I put the car back on the ground that I had forgotten something, and that was to set the wheel camber   A little time later the wheels camber in correct way, just needs a little fine tuning so both are the same, which will be done in the next few days.     |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Jul 25, 2013 21:40:57 GMT
|
|
I have just been informed today of some seriously bad news!!
As the gypsies/travellers cannot use the field they used last year
because it has been ploughed and there was a public out cry that
the horse far was there at Horden in the first place.I have just been
told that it has been move to Blackhall Colliery 'industrial Estate.
This means it will now be a few hundred yards along and on the
other side of the railway lines from me!
At first you my not think this is bad, but when I tell you that it is
not in an area of easy access and that none of the locals have been
informed. Someone at the council has not asked any of the locals if
they wanted it, because if they did it would be a case of them being
told “”NO! And to take a long walk off a short pier or worse.
The last place they held the fair was on the edge of Horden where
they had easy access to the A19 and other roads so they didn't block
the roads in Horden. Where the council idiot has said they could hold
the fair means that they have no choice but to go through the Village
and tight roads.
Then there are the problems they caused last year will be amplified
as they have put the travellers near a pub and a working mens club.
And one last thing which I have had is the abusive language and
threatening behaviour when I asked why they were on a neighbours
property. A few days later the neighbours had stuff stolen from their
garden, and damage done to their garage. I think that family dogs
being noisy and barking a lot detered them from coming onto my
family's property.
But in any case I think I will be on night watch duties till they have
gone as nI don't want anything stolen!!
(please note that I have toned down the language on this post so
it is not as irate as how I feel!!!)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Just a little note to let you all know I haven't stopped working on the old
girl. I have been slowly picking my way through the wires one at a time,
isolating and grouping relevant wires together in strip/chocolate block
connectors in readyness for different things. Such as making up a new
longer cable for the down stream heated O2/lambda sensor.
I have found that in my wiring that the colours of the wiring on both the
Voyager and neon wiring looms are a little different from the factory service
manuals. So I have been using the FSM for the connector pinouts along
with wiring diagrams to get along and correct as I go.
The only thing that holds me up is when my sugar levels fluctuate and it
makes my colour blindness or eye sight in general go to pot. I called a halt
on all of todays progress and I was making very good progress, but I
wasn't willing to carry on in thunder, lightening and rain.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yesterday I found the gril bar had been covered in white spirits and the paint had come off half of it. So I stripped the rest of the paint off then gave it a coat of gray primer before a coat of chrome. It was perfect then I had to give it a coat of clear lacquer. Now it's nolonger a shiny chrome!   Here is the disaster that lays beneath the bonnet! I found that I had previously wired the reverse light cable from the PRN switch into the data cable link, so that won't have helped previously. It didn't help that both the data link and the reverse use the same coloured wires!  I'm getting there slowly. No night driving or driving in dull weather for me for a while as I have smashed my last pair of clear lensed distance glasses, so no car shows or club meets for a few weeks!!! :cry: |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I still have a few unknown wires to sort out and to fit the new downstream
heated O2/lambda sensor. But I connected up the Voyager ECU, then put the
immobilizer in bypass/emergency start mode. The starter motor solenoid was
trying to engage but it couldn't, and I don't think that the battery had enough
power left in it either!
Tomorrow I will fit the new lambda sensor and it's new cable run, which I
finished tonight soldering all the connections, as it's a slightly longer run I did
not want any moisture getting in at a connection and it being a repeat of the
indicator wiring volt drop.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The lambda sensor fitted and the the cable zip tied in place.   I then tried again starting the car, watch the vids I know there is something wrong!   The last thing I did was to take out the spark plugs, and the back three were a bit fun to get out! Perhaps without the plugs in and the cylinders not under compression it will be easier to free up the engine and get the starter motor to spin more easily! I just pray the bloody thing hasn't siezed as I haven't had it properly spinning since the plugs where put in! :sad: |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
After a couple of days spraying WD-40 into the cylinders, it was time to remove the copper tubes used to feed cylinders with the penetrating oil.  A new couple of negative cables, and I dropped the battery in with no loose connections to cause problems.  This is the second time I did this as the first time I did it the camera got covered so this is from a different angle. The amount of curse word that came out of those spark plug holes covers the fire wall and exhaust manifold around the back, as well as the radiator bumper and the drive.  Well after that I removed battery and used it for putting the cable back on the winch drum.  I will need to get a new 1/2 inch ratchet as it is the only one that I have that has a socket large enough for the spark plugs, as the old one is fecked! So all but the rear middle plug was put back in. I will sort that out before using the pressure hose to clean up the engine bay with all that mess. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 11, 2013 18:27:41 GMT
|
 After the initial try wishing against all hope and common sense that she would just start! I tried putting the multi meter to various places to see what is going on there. No output to fuel relay, or sensor power supply, or ignition coils etc. I found a plug which wasn't connected up, I think I have identified it as the Knock sensor going off the cable colours. Only problem is that according to the Factory Service Manual it should be up front next to the oil filter and starter motor.  But here is a couple from today of the same place.   Any idea where the alternative places it could be on this motor? (I was not going to lift all the planks off the inspection pit and crawl under the car when I'm not well enough) With what I have said do you think that the Voyager ECU is in lock down mode? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 17, 2013 16:54:55 GMT
|
Okay in the wee small hours of Saturday morning I finnally got to this stacge with the ecu adapter Voyager to intrepid. If I have to replace another F'ing wire on the old ecu socket I will throw a temper tantrum that will make any from Elton John look weak!!n it has been the bane of my life since I started it! I just need to trim the wires, solder the ends and put them in the relivant connector then it's done and time to test it.    |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I'm sending up the signal flares, member in trouble here!!!!!
I am having problems getting this old monster running, She will turn over but not fire up!
The adapter with dodge intrepid ecu did the same as the Voyagers ecu. There is power to
it, there is no power from it! The ecu is not supplying the reduced voltages for sensors or
power to relays such as for the fuel pump or to the ignition coils!
Suggestions please, as the only option left to me is to take the wiring looms out and each
bit back in piece by piece :negative:
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 23, 2013 13:09:05 GMT
|
|
Back on the car after a spate of ill health and before the bad weather which is
forecast for tomorrow. There is a signal for the automatic shut down relay from
the ecu.
I'm wondering if I've crossed a wire somewhere!!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 24, 2013 19:55:41 GMT
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 25, 2013 19:15:05 GMT
|
After pulling back the wires and disconnecting some of my previous connections I managed to separate the ecu switched live cable. For testing purposes only I temporally connected directly to the battery. Upon making the connection there was a series of clicking from relays as the ecu set the fuel pump away, the auto shut down relay supplied power to the the ignition coil and other sensors A few attempts at starting and probing with a multi-meter, there is power to the spark plugs . Yet I couldn't get her to run for more than a 2 or 3 seconds at a time! The first time I wasn't expecting her to fire up and was greated with some smoke from the exhaust. Here is the 2nd attempt.  I will miss any car meets further than 10miles from me as I will now need to seriously start saving for the cost of an MOT and anything I can't do such as tracking or tyres. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 26, 2013 19:01:56 GMT
|
|
I did at one point have the v6 running for a good 5 seconds but she died as
though suffocated, when I managed to get to the same point again I opened
the throttle and that killed it too!
Then! a new fly in the ointment, actually I should say transmission fluid!! :x
With all this turning the engine over to try and get the old girl to fire up the V6,
there has been the pressure building up in the transmission pumping the fluid
around into the oil radiator. This is not a problem as it is doing as it's supposed
to do!
The problem is the oil cooler radiator it's self as it failed, spraying the electrics
and the rest of the engine-bay with oil! So a new oil cooler is needed before any
more cranking the engine over!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
