rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
Ok thanks. Bit of DA action tomorrow and see what lurks behind the paint. Fairly sure I will need the full panel. I can get an inner arch repair panel for the BMW 2002 to match the outer so the fit "should" be good but a lot of waste and probably nowhere near to mating up with the original inner arch. Need to clean all the thick underseal off the remains of the inner arch but every time I scrape underseal off I find more corrosion..
Will make a start tomorrow and post results. Thanks for your reply.
|
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
Apart from welding new floor pans into the 1974 Peugeot 304 Cabriolet and curse word off the neighbours with all the hammering and grinding I have:
Removed the hinges from the conservatory doors (one at a time) and given them a bit of blow torch action to free off the adjusters. I now have doors that open and close smoothly.
Noticed that when the hot water fired up the radiators also got warm. Bit of internet action pointed to the 3 way diverter so I managed to free that off for now although will probably need replacing long term.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
Picture 1 is the rear wheel arch as it is. Picture 2 is the rear wheel arch in more like the shape it should be. Car is a 1974 304 cabriolet. Repair panels or new wings are not available and the repair panel pictured is for a BMW 2002 which is very close to being correct. Disregarding I might want/need to take about an inch out of the centre of the repair section how would you go about fitting this? Not sure I want to or have the ability to cut out accurately and butt weld successfully. What about bend the mating points of each panel in slightly and weld into the "V" so less grinding afterwards? Or just lap weld? I will also need to repair the inner arches and have a stretcher/shrinker for that once I learn to use it and access to a deep throat stretcher/shrinker if necessary. Joining the inner and outer arch lip is it possible to use adhesive for this or do I have to plug weld? The car is never going to be anything other than a good presentable example hopefully. Thanks for any replies.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Apr 29, 2020 20:09:11 GMT
|
I have loads of Airfix Motor Racing track and cars etc. Lap counter, crash barrier, buildings. Need to have a look.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Apr 29, 2020 19:49:31 GMT
|
Well I hit the jackpot Chris. Twelve 1 Litre bottles of Dinitrol for £60 delivered. Good old Ebay. Should be more than enough for a smallish car. Will post a picture or 2 when the centre section is finished. Thanks for your advice.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Apr 22, 2020 19:33:42 GMT
|
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 21:16:51 GMT
|
Thanks for the reply. Not trying to replicate any particular finish. Just want to protect the bare metal before applying dinitrol underseal. Just a good quality Etching primer then - aerosol is fine - apply Dinitrol 4941 over the top of it and you have a good durable & long lasting solution Something like Isopon U-Pol Powercan Etch Primer Spray as found on Ebay and then Dinitrol 4941 sounds ok then. Thanks for your time.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 20:50:58 GMT
|
Sorry is this has been asked before but no time to read through 25 pages at present. Is red lead any good for bare metal on the chassis and cills? Thanks. There are far better and more advanced products in todays market - whilst a red lead type product may offer some protection I think that you will find that has a primer it's porous and absorbs water - you would far better applying a good quality etching primer first - then what ever underbody protection that you had planned - what did you have mind - are you attempting to replicate the factory finish or do you just require a good quality impact / rust resistant finish ? Thanks for the reply. Not trying to replicate any particular finish. Just want to protect the bare metal before applying dinitrol underseal.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Apr 19, 2020 19:08:39 GMT
|
Sorry is this has been asked before but no time to read through 25 pages at present. Is red lead any good for bare metal on the chassis and cills? Thanks.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
What year / model?
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
I worked in a Peugeot franchise years ago and what I came across there just might be your issue. Think it was on a Talbot Express so not the same engine but I changed from a Bosch to a Lucas pump (or vice versa) and used the same injection pipes and the engine would not start. I had to change the pipes to match the pump to get it running as the firing order arrangement on the pumps were different. Worth having a look at that.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Jun 24, 2017 21:51:06 GMT
|
Not familiar with the XC90 but all the BMW AWD vehicles are super critical on tyres. Not only do you need to have BMW approved tyres fitted to avoid transfer box wind up and subsequent damage but the tread depth has to be reasonably equal on the same axle. That moght be your problem so worth looking at.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
May 29, 2017 20:42:53 GMT
|
If I were you I would call in to your local BMW / Mercedes / Audi dealership and ask them who they use for their smart repairs. The jobs these guys do on plastic / leather/ vinyl etc is amazing. Get a phone number and then you have nothing to lose except a quick call.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
May 22, 2017 17:52:39 GMT
|
Assuming you have either the M47 or more likely the M47TU engine the torque setting is as follows.
Fit a new bolt. Jointing torque to 100Nm Torque angle 60 degrees Torque angle 60 degrees Torque angle 30 degrees
And that is f'ing tight. Latest spec direct from BMW.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
May 21, 2017 18:04:44 GMT
|
David. If you give me the last 7 digits of your chassis number I can get you the correct torque setting. BUT be aware that it is likely to be around the 400Nm mark. Repeat 400Nm.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
155Nm is in no way "frigging tight" and is nowhere near tight enough. Back at work tomorrow (been on hols so only just read this) and will check correct figure for you. What year is your car? Only way to lock the engine is on the flywheel ring gear. There is a special tool but a large pry bar can be used. The timing pin is NOT a good idea.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
Could be worth having a look at the DISA valve as air leaks from that could cause a problem. Held in by 2 screw so easy to remove but a bit of a footer getting it past the inner wing.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Mar 31, 2017 20:00:18 GMT
|
Had this happen years ago on an Avenger I was asked to look at. Problem was the oil pressure relief valve has stuck and instead of bleeding excess pressure back into the sump the pressure increased and increased until something blew. In this case the oil filter seal so that could be your problem. Fitting an oil pressure gauge is the only sure way of checking this.
|
|
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
Mar 31, 2017 18:33:46 GMT
|
Regarding the awful clunking noise you can hear if it is coming from the rear it is probably the mountings for the rear suspension. If my memory is still working ( it has been about 37 years since i worked on them ) there are two bonded rubber mounts on each side. One works in compression and one works in shear and it is the latter where the bonding fails and allows metal to metal contact and noise. Simple and quick job. From memory take the back seat base out and undo the nuts, jack up the body and the mounting will drop down giving you access. Recommend changing them all at the same time.
Think there is also a grease nipple for the torque tube centre bearing. Worth giving that a squirt.
|
|
|
|
|