tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990 
|
|
|
|
|
Looking for opinions on bodyshell priming folks. Once the RallyKa is running later in the year, it's full steam ahead at my Mk1 Golf short lamp project. That is one I want to be "nice". I've most of the welding done, including raising the turrets and converting to mk4 Golf top mounts with more caster and camber.
Also removed lots of unused holes and bracketry from the bay.
Anyway, I'm looking for advice and suggestions re primers. I hear the terms Urethane, Polyurethane and Epoxy bandied about. I'm looking for something that covers well, and has a good build in it, that I can sand into to lose imperfections and minor scrapes and sanding marks etc. And ideally won't soak up moisture seeing as it'll probably sit in primer for a few months.
TIA, Tristan
|
| |
Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
May 21, 2017 10:10:20 GMT
|
|
epoxy is the best you can get
if need be use 2k high build primer on top if its rough , but the epoxy on its own had decent build
|
| |
91 golf g60, 89 golf 16v , 88 polo breadvan
|
|
|
|
|
May 21, 2017 12:15:27 GMT
|
|
2 part Epoxy is what you want as a foundation for your paint job. Over this I do filler and high-build primers (featherfill) sanded to 400 grit and then a sealer-primer coat sanded to 600 before paint.
Dark primer for dark colors and light primer for light colors.
|
| |
|
|
tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
|
|
May 21, 2017 17:33:34 GMT
|
|
Thanks for that.
What's the reason behind Polyurethane ones then?
|
| |
Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
|
|
|
|
|
May 21, 2017 17:44:41 GMT
|
|
I always use epoxy first as a rust inhibitor and it won't soak moisture like ordinary filler primer. I overcoat that with max Meyer 3011 primer filler which has a decent build and is easy to sand.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 21, 2017 22:29:17 GMT
|
Thanks for that. What's the reason behind Polyurethane ones then? Not heard much about polyurethane primers. As a rule, urethane's are tough finishes that stand up to abuse. More of a topcoat from what I know. Going to shoot a few coats of epoxy on the Molvo tomorrow and a couple of coats of single stage so I can cross off the "Paint engine bay" task on my list.  |
| |
Last Edit: May 21, 2017 22:32:03 GMT by bjornagn
|
|
|
|
|
May 21, 2017 22:48:53 GMT
|
|
Guys - How are you applying your epoxy / 2k primers and if you are spraying what respirators are you using ?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 21, 2017 23:08:46 GMT
|
Guys - How are you applying your epoxy / 2k primers and if you are spraying what respirators are you using ? Spray gun. Charcoal mask and Tyvek suit. Best practice calls for a make-up air respirator. |
| |
|
|
tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
|
|
May 21, 2017 23:41:05 GMT
|
|
Is it carcinogenic?
|
| |
Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
|
|
rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
|
|
|
|
|
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The advice on HSE website posted by RBS is without argument the reason for having the correct personal protective equipment in this case a positive fed / air fed mask - the air can be supplied by the same compressor that you spray with but must travel through a 3 stage filter to convert the air to a suitable breathing quality Pics of my set up   A standard / charcoal respirator simply will not do the job - quite a few of the guys on the forum get around the issue of spraying the 2k / epoxy primers by rolling them with a mini gloss roller for the larger panels & brushing in the difficult areas that the roller can not access - you still need to be doing this with plenty of ventilation but because you are not putting paint particles into a airborne mist the risks are significantly reduced. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 22, 2017 10:49:37 GMT
|
The advice on HSE website posted by RBS is without argument the reason for having the correct personal protective equipment in this case a positive fed / air fed mask - the air can be supplied by the same compressor that you spray with but must travel through a 3 stage filter to convert the air to a suitable breathing quality Pics of my set up A standard / charcoal respirator simply will not do the job - quite a few of the guys on the forum get around the issue of spraying the 2k / epoxy primers by rolling them with a mini gloss roller for the larger panels & brushing in the difficult areas that the roller can not access - you still need to be doing this with plenty of ventilation but because you are not putting paint particles into a airborne mist the risks are significantly reduced. Don't use this kind of rig if your compressor is in the same room as the car. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 22, 2017 14:07:08 GMT
|
The advice on HSE website posted by RBS is without argument the reason for having the correct personal protective equipment in this case a positive fed / air fed mask - the air can be supplied by the same compressor that you spray with but must travel through a 3 stage filter to convert the air to a suitable breathing quality Pics of my set up A standard / charcoal respirator simply will not do the job - quite a few of the guys on the forum get around the issue of spraying the 2k / epoxy primers by rolling them with a mini gloss roller for the larger panels & brushing in the difficult areas that the roller can not access - you still need to be doing this with plenty of ventilation but because you are not putting paint particles into a airborne mist the risks are significantly reduced. Don't use this kind of rig if your compressor is in the same room as the car. My compressor is within the workshop however it draws it's intake air from an external source - for the avoidance of doubt the reason for the 3 stage filter set up is that these have a coalescer alongside water vapour filters, the coalescer reduces any oil particles within the compressed air to a an acceptable level for breathing - it is not has most people think to filter paint particles out of the compressed air. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
The product used was Valspar 2008 epoxy primer/surfacer and sealer. Interestingly, it can be used either an a surfacer or as a sealer by adding one more part reducer. Stuff sprayed on good with a Devilbiss Teckna HVLP gun with 20 psi at the gun and a 1.4 tip. Spent a good eight hours in the shop prepping and sanding for maybe ten minutes of trigger time to finish the engine compartment. Pics for those that don't get to the build threads. Scuffed the primer with 400 grit after a two hour wait. Just knocking the nibs back since otherwise you can shoot right over the epoxy primer up to eight hours after it was laid down.   |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
May 25, 2017 11:27:16 GMT
|
|
My home brewed low pressure set up is a air pump (initially 2 cheap air bed pumps and now a hot tub air pump) placed on the other side of the garage wall in the garden pumping into a 1" hose (like the stuff used for fish pond pumps) which is in turn attached to a fresh air mask(cheap visor with foam stuck around the edge to seal to my face) , loads of free air you can't even smell a whiff of the vapour when painting.
The only issue is you now have 2 trailing hoses to trip over but I usually only do a panel or 2 at a time so this is not such an issue for me.
|
| |
|
|
tristanh
Part of things
Routinely bewildered
Posts: 990
|
|
May 28, 2017 20:39:12 GMT
|
|
|
| |
Whether you believe you can, or you cannot, you're probably right.
|
|
