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May 18, 2017 13:46:09 GMT
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My belt went the other night. After a load of noise for a couple of minutes, I checked and assumed it was a bearing.
Nursing it back home, I heard a bang, and assumed it was the belt when the battery light came on. Took it home and noticed the outer crank pulley had come away from the inner with the rubber distorted.
I don't know if this is a common problem or not, but I'm worried about a- getting the pulley nut off, and b- getting a replacement crank pulley.
I don't know whether the diesels all had the same pulleys or not?
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Last Edit: May 18, 2017 13:48:58 GMT by DavidB
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May 18, 2017 19:53:34 GMT
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find your vin or build number and look it up on Realoem.com
when you find the part you can search the part number and find what else it's found on.
I don't know if its a common problem on bmw's but it is on a few others, notably diesels, removing the remains isn't usually a problem, lock the engine by jamming the flywheel and bog bar on the crank bolt.
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May 18, 2017 20:12:51 GMT
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Yes, it's a pretty common issue on this motor.
Be aware, the crank bolt is effing tight, so you're best to lock the flywheel with a proper timing pin.
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Al.
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May 18, 2017 20:39:29 GMT
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timing pin is the last thing you want to use when removing a crank bolt.
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May 18, 2017 20:47:54 GMT
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timing pin is the last thing you want to use when removing a crank bolt. Every one of these I've changed (which is quite a few) I've used the proper flywheel locking pin. It's the right tool for the job. |
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Al.
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maybe you're calling it the wrong thing, but you should never use timing pins to lock an engine.
unless its specifically a locking tool.
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Hence my use of the word "proper." The specific timing pin kit for this engine includes the proper locking pin for timing up the bottom end and also locking the flywheel.
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Al.
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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timing pin is the last thing you want to use when removing a crank bolt. maybe you're calling it the wrong thing, but you should never use timing pins to lock an engine. unless its specifically a locking tool. Hence my use of the word "proper." The specific timing pin kit for this engine includes the proper locking pin for timing up the bottom end and also locking the flywheel. Both of you are right  . It looks like BMW have done the same as Porsche. On the 944 the tool used for timing up the engine is called the Flywheel locking tool. Mainly because the crank pulley is torqued up to 155Nm (it drives the oil pump). |
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May 19, 2017 14:10:55 GMT
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155Nm is frigging tight! I'm going to do it the proper way, put the handbrake on, park it against a wall, put it in sixth gear, and use a 10 foot long scaffolding pole on a breaker bar. Failing that I'll lock the flywheel. |
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rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64 
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155Nm is in no way "frigging tight" and is nowhere near tight enough. Back at work tomorrow (been on hols so only just read this) and will check correct figure for you.
What year is your car?
Only way to lock the engine is on the flywheel ring gear. There is a special tool but a large pry bar can be used. The timing pin is NOT a good idea.
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May 21, 2017 10:01:35 GMT
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no year stated so I just picked 2004, autodata says 60nm +50° +50°
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rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
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May 21, 2017 18:04:44 GMT
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David. If you give me the last 7 digits of your chassis number I can get you the correct torque setting. BUT be aware that it is likely to be around the 400Nm mark. Repeat 400Nm.
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May 21, 2017 22:24:27 GMT
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Year is correct! Thanks rbs. There was no way I was going to shift this bolt, so stuck a breaker bar on it, rested against the ground and turned the engine over and 300nm undid the bolt straight away. |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,189
Club RR Member Number: 170
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155Nm is in no way "frigging tight" and is nowhere near tight enough. Back at work tomorrow (been on hols so only just read this) and will check correct figure for you. What year is your car? Only way to lock the engine is on the flywheel ring gear. There is a special tool but a large pry bar can be used. The timing pin is NOT a good idea. I was referring to the 944 in my example ; alot of them don't have the nut done up as tightly with obvious results . Christ the M42 has a tight bolt! I wonder if that is a similar setup with regards to the oil pump. |
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May 22, 2017 15:04:27 GMT
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I removed a k-series bolt by locking the flywheel with a pair of pliers. It is the safest way. Don't drop them into the gearbox though.
The first time I did this, my dad pressed so hard on the brakes he blew the seals on the new rear calipers, plus I forgot I left the cam locking tool on and stripped the belt and bent two valves. A complete disaster.
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rbs
Part of things
Posts: 64
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May 22, 2017 17:52:39 GMT
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Assuming you have either the M47 or more likely the M47TU engine the torque setting is as follows.
Fit a new bolt.
Jointing torque to 100Nm
Torque angle 60 degrees
Torque angle 60 degrees
Torque angle 30 degrees
And that is f'ing tight. Latest spec direct from BMW.
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THANKS! And they sent me the wrong one!  |
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