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Just looked it up, seems its ok for use in every situation, including headgaskets, but maybe not fuel?
Not much fuel sealing needs to be done though, i was only being cautious with inlet manifold gaskets (damm things has fuel/air mix and water in it)
Seems it may well do what i need. Thin smear on both sides i guess? The mating surfaces all seem decent enough, it seems like more if a case of poor design and only cheap gaskets being available.
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Ive had enough of my bedfords slant 4 leaking. Ive regasketed the whole engine twice. It stays moderately leak free for a bit, then after maybe a year its bad again. It seems to just develop slight leaks from everywhere rather than one place. I'm going to take the whole bloody thing apart again and redo every gasket/seal i can without taking the engine out. I'm determined to stop it leaking (i know these are renowned for leaking).
So, can anyone recommend any decent gasket sealants for oil, water and fuel and maybe even the headgasket? I wouldnt normaly use anything, no other engine ive rebuilt has really needed any, but this thing is a different story. I really don't want to be doing this a third time!
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I still very much like your recommendation of going to a hydraulic shop. Maybe they can be of help in ways I couldn't even have thought of. Although sometimes you're met with the attitude that these things are more hassle than they are worth to them and they just send you off. We'll see, we have two nearby so... I thought this when i needed the spindle in my lathe fixing. Its a tiny lathe made in 1902. I went to loads of local engineers expecting them to be completely disinterested. They were all very helpfull! They thought my 'small lathe' spindle would have been 2 foot long, not the 10" long spindle i turned up with. I think it intreagued everyone. They couldnt help and kept recomending other shops, all of which were used to much larger jobs. All wished they could help. Then one shop sent me to a specialist grinders, they were amazed at my tiny old lathe. They ground the spindle, sent it off for hard chroming then reground it to fit the headstock. Made an excellent job of it and charged me the minimum charge. They were all so helpful as the job interested them even though they all normally do big industrial jobs. I guess what I'm saying is they may be very helpful. Show them pics of the car, tell them what you are doing, they may well be MORE helpful with these small jobs than they would be for their bread and butter work.
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2 thoughts, but its been a while since ive helicoiled anything. It sounds like you will need a tap that will cut a full thread right to the bottom of a blind hole. Are helicoil taps like this, or do the threads start gradually? You may need two taps. Secondly, if you helicoil you need to snap the tang off, how easy would it be for that tang to fall inside the rack? Ive not used timeserts, i assume the tap situation will be the same, but no tang issues?
Edit, i see petervdv had the same thought at the same time!
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2019 12:28:38 GMT by VW
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So, the behavior of this is fairly straightforward. The band is easy to understand, it wraps around the outside of the drum (you can see where it's worn the drum above), and a hydraulic piston in the servo pushes it tight, it stops the drum like a brake. The clutches are a little more complex but not by much. The clutch pack itself is made up from a sandwich of alternating steel plates and rings with friction material on. You can see the teeth on the inside edge int he picture above; those are only on the friction rings. Those teeth engage with the sun gear in the center. The steel plates are toothed on the outside edge and are locked in place and rotate as part of the outer drum. You can see the 3 pegs that hold them around the edge. It's all spring loaded by the springs around the outside edge of the discs. The lid is in two pieces, one that fits inside the other with an oil feed the same as a main bearing gets on an engine. Hydraulic oil is fed into the center shaft of the drum (dull cast iron piece), which goes into the void inside. That then forces the piston (silver alloy piece) to expand out and press against the clutch stack, forcing it to engage and grab. The friction material on these is an organic fiber material around the outer edge and cork around the inner. As such, they can only tolerate a certain amount of heat- they really aren't meant to slip. They're meant to engage quickly and not heat up. If everything's adjusted incorrectly then they'll slip and fight and have to work harder than they should. In this case they've become so hot they've burned to a crisp and all that crispy stuff ended up in the oil pan. Then because there was no more friction material left the slip was worse and heated up so much it softened the bearings and ruined them. The funny thing is, even with all that is wrong with it, the gearbox still functioned enough to drive the car down the road. It wasn't good but it did work. I guess that's testament to the design. However, to try and prevent that happening again, I'm going to be setting this up properly... --Phil Pretty much a motorbike clutch then? Just actuated differently. Do the steel plates wear grooves into the 'basket' like they do on bikes?
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Sorry, question unrelated to most of this thread, but the J type is fitted to bedford CF's. If this is a weaker one, how come its fine in these? Is the strength of the overdrive unit purely a consideration of engine output? 2.3 bedford engine is something like 80bhp and 100lbft so not loads of power. Does the weight and aerodynamics of the vehicle not play a part in the stress on the overdrive?
Just curious.
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there must be a way to scan your car for these If breaking bad is to be believed then yes.
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This may not help as i have no clue about most fords, but for wheel bearing setting i always tighten the nut while spinning the wheel, you can tell when its gone too tight. Then back off the nut until the washer underneath can be moved by levering it with a screwdriver. I don't know if the washer underneath the nut has enough side to side clearance for that to work or not.
As for grease, ive no idea what would be considered enough grease but i guess the little packets you get with wheel bearings is some kind of indication. I never feel thats quite enough though and tend to use a bit more. Not the half a tub that was in your new hubs though! I don't think too much would really do any harm, just a messy waste.
Edit... Thinking about it, I'm sure that wheel bearing technique was probably the book way of setting vw beetles and ive just done similar whenever i could since. Ive never had a wheelbearing fail though and ive replaced loads.
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Last Edit: Aug 6, 2019 15:23:58 GMT by VW
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Has anyone got any 225/70/14 tyres? I'm not 100% sure they will fit under the arches so don't really want to spend out on new ones to find out! Thanks.
Edit, could also do with 1 205/70/14
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Last Edit: Aug 14, 2019 17:26:27 GMT by VW
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Do they do dropped spindles for the cf No. Could probably be made though. You would need 2 pairs of spindles, unless you scratch built a pair.
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Last Edit: May 18, 2019 9:15:12 GMT by VW
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My bedford has a level gauge for the fresh water tank. It works by capillary. There is a micro bore pipe from the tank up to a sight tube. One day it just drained out to empty and hasnt worked since. Ive took it apart and took the sender out the tank and i can find nothing wrong with it. I can't find any info at all on line about these. I must be missing something about how it works. Is anyone familiar with these? The pipe isnt blocked or split, the air vent hole is clear. I have tried filling it from the top and it all just syphons back down into the tank. To me it looks like there should be something else in the sender that has somehow gone missing but i don't see how thats possible, or how it could have disappeared.
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Dec 21, 2018 10:41:44 GMT
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When i was younger and everyone had turbosystems sunstrip stickers across the top of their windscreen, there was a little yellow fiat with 'toilet cisterns' in the same font. Always used to make me laugh.
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Dec 16, 2018 22:20:46 GMT
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Doesn't look too bad considering it's been sat off road for almost 40 years. Looks a world of pain from where I'm sitting!
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Dec 13, 2018 17:27:27 GMT
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However i might first try and re constitute the old ones with GRP, or try and take moulds off the old ones??? Not sure how well that is going to work, but probably look neater than the modern foam which probably wont want to fit the curved surfaces without creasing and looking rubbish. Would some heat help with forming the new foam? You have it now, may as well give it a go before trying to repair the old ones, unless repairing the originals would be preferable anyway.
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Dec 11, 2018 12:32:49 GMT
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Looking forward to this. Love india! Spent 5 months there when i was 20, always said id go back but the thought had never interested any of my following girlfriends.
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Dec 11, 2018 11:25:43 GMT
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This is an early draft of the garage; Pretty much exactly what i built in my garden. Unfortunately i can only get motorbikes down the side of the house. Decent size though.
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Dec 10, 2018 12:32:50 GMT
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In my opinion, the proportions look all wrong now its chopped. Not my car though.
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Dec 10, 2018 12:29:56 GMT
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A guy on rods and sods was building a cf and made his own one piece rear door. He documented the process quite thoroughly. To be honest, it didnt look that hard. Easier than those B pillars
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