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Feb 18, 2018 21:42:25 GMT
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Hi There. I've got all the stuff that I took out of my 98 E39 saloon that the previous owner put in, if you want it. It was a couple of white boxes, bit longer than a fag packet and a load of wires. I'll grab a photo for you. BRB. Here ya go. It was all spliced into the offside tail light wires. I can't help you with installing it, but if you want it pm me and you can have it for nowt.
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Glad to see you've got your safety slippers on mate. Not critisising one bit, just made me chuckle. Good to see you're still hard at it, lovely car that.
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Hi MkX. Thanks for that mate. I'll have a go at £550. Seems like a reasonable figure. I think it would pain me too much to break it. Luckily, I haven't got the space to do it either. Thanks again.
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Hi all. I've been fighting getting another car for a while now as I love this car to bits. It's got a couple of problems, that I haven't got the space to fix. As the title suggests, its an Oxford green 1998/07 BMW E39 528i SE Manual with 130,000 on the clock. Its got full leather interior which is in great nick. There's sadly a few issues stopping it being the reliable car I need to get to work etc. I've bit the bullet and got a new car, so I need to work out what to do with this one. Just bought a new set of wheels for it too. I made a thread a while back to try to fix it: forum.retro-rides.org/thread/193175/bmw-e39-528i-sounds-spannersEdit: Worth noting it's quite a rare M52b28 Engine. It was produced in the 2-3 month sweet spot, where they had addressed the Nikasil bore lining issue ( as with the update TU M52) but it still has what I'm led to believe is the less problematic single vanos valve timing. few extra pics: Wheel not included. Engine bay before air intake removal. I've recently put in new: Ignition switch, cam position sensor, external chain tensioner, water pump, viscous fan & battery. Still got to put in: new starter motor, replacement little offside rear window lifting block thing & a replacement Key barrel ( bought from BMW on saturday to replace the broken one currently in the car) There's an airbag light on, a couple of rust patches on the boot and rear arch, the sills need welding. It's also got a small ding in the passenger door where some mofo clipped it without leaving a note. The main issue with it is over-heating related. I've just found out that the front aux. fan doesn't work at all and the car cuts out after a bit of a drive, then coming to a stop with no airflow. It starts again after a couple of minutes cooling down and runs a bit lumpy. There's no indication from the car that it's actually overheating though. Temp never gets over 104 degrees seen via the hidden diagnostic temp display on the dash. It's cut out on me on the sliproad getting off the motorway twice in the last few days. bit of a brown trouser moment both times. Just thought, the clips holding the airbox just infront of the maf are loose as the bits on the airbox are broke. Maybe the airbox is moving forward when I'm reducing speed getting off the motorway. Hmmmmmmmmmmmm.And its weirdly cut out twice going up the small, but steep slope into my doctors. Hmmmmmmmmmmmmm You can see the broken plastik on the intake housing very bottom, middle of the pic. It makes the metal clip go too close to the MAF, stopping it from clipping up snug and tight. (clip should be about 5 mm back I reckon) Well Either way, I've bought a new car now, a new posh one. so I'm going to have to sell it really. Any ideas of value other than scrap ? I'm off to put some leccy tape round the intake joint and have a rip up the motorway, there's hope for her yet. Edit: Boooooo. Still cut out coming to a stop on a motorway roundabout. Sat like a lemon for a minute, then off I went. On a side note, I've been driving it so cautiously the last few months, I'd forgotten just how bloody fast it is. Might cry a little bit when I let it go.
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Despite having this thread: forum.retro-rides.org/thread/193175/bmw-e39-528i-sounds-spanners?page=1&scrollTo=2255619I love my E39. Its a manual 1998 528i se in Oxford Green, been driving it for a bit now and still can't get over how smooth and quiet it is to drive. Previous cars were a Corsa B and an old Honda civic though. I'm not sure if I'd count it as retro or not really. As a '98 it's the newest car I've ever owned, so I've got a skewed point of view. When I look at newer 5 series beemers on the road it does seem comparitivly quite old though, so maybe it is retro now, but with youthful looks.
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Thanks for the ideas chaps Bit of an update. The problem was indeed a shot bearing on the water pump. New pump sorted it out no problem. The issue was confused a bit by having a sticky starter motor too, and a rubbish battery, causing the car to just click on startup. 9 months down the line, the starter still needs a wee tap from time to time, but is almost running like a dream. I say almost as there's a bit of a hiss coming from under the air intake manifold and it occasionally looses power and economy. I suspect the culprit is a dodgy oil fume recycler part causing a vacuum leak. I've going to pull the inlet manifold off sometime soon, so I'll have a good old poke about then. Still glad I didn't give up on it, brilliant car, lovely to drive.
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Hi there. Thanks for the great reply, very educational. :)Exactly what I was hoping for. I haven't really thought about what paint to use. Open to suggestions really. I'd like to try and mimic the factory approach if I can. Its a 1993 saab 900s turbo. In the picture below, I've put a box around what I'd like to replicate. It looks like a chunky something, with body colour paint sprayed over the top. I'm more than happy to go down the route you suggest though, as I'm primarily after maximum protection. I've used Dinitrol rust converter and its a fantastic product. Thanks for the links, I'll have a good old poke about in them. I've got a compressor of sorts, so I'll try an air fed application. I'll get some cavity wax too. Do you just blast the stuff right in heavy ? Only way I can get out of the weather is with a tarp hooked over my garage door and tied over the car. Makes a great little cocoon, but I can't leave it like that overnight, as the garage is pretty much on the street and would be easy to duck under the tarp and walk in. Thinking about it, I should be able to put a heater in there first thing in the morning, then paint in the evening once it's had all day in the heat. Would probably be worth heating the garage up overnight the day before too eh, should help things along. Here's the cocoon I've put it in previously.
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Sept 30, 2017 16:51:07 GMT
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Hi all. I'm coming to the end of all the welding on the underneath of my saab 900 now. Since I started the welding I've coated the metal with a good zinc rust paint and left it at that. I'm nearly to the point of putting the final finishing coat of paint on the underside now and doing a quick colour matched spray in of the arches etc. I'm a novice at this sort of stuff and would love to know the very best way of going about it to ensure maximum protection of my hours and hours of welding labour. As the weather is getting wetter now, I'm a bit afraid of locking moisture in if I paint it now. The zinc primer paint I used is resin based, so it should be fine. But I want to make sure before I attack it. In my mind, if I do it on a nice day and give it a bit of a blast with a heat gun for a bit before painting, that could be enough ? Ideally I'd like to get it in a garage for a few weeks with the heat on to thoroughly dry it all out, but unfortunately, thats not an option. Am I being too over catious or is it a necessity to ensure it really is all completely bone dry ? Cheers for any help or advice.
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Aug 13, 2017 14:57:18 GMT
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I can do strong, but ugly. I'm about 10 miles north of you.
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Nice car that !
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Jun 11, 2017 16:23:56 GMT
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Lovely cars, Excellent photos. That lexus with the off road tyres is giving me ideas for my E39 Beemer. Top car for me is the black 240z, love the photo of the silvia going sideways, with bits of bumper missing and fire in the .zorst.
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Mar 26, 2017 12:45:00 GMT
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Thanks for the link Legend. As you said, I changed the lower tensioner and it did stop the dragging chain noise completely. I replaced all 4 parts including the seal washer with OEM bits from BMW at a bit under £40. It was really easy to fit, I put it in more on the loose side for the moment, until I can find the correct torque setting. The washer is some sort of soft white metal, so I don't want to crush it. I can't drive it yet till I change the water pump, but I should probably put a post-it on the dash as a reminder to do it up properly. Thanks again.
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Feb 24, 2017 21:53:37 GMT
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Bit of an update on the situation. After a few merry discoveries, I think I'm a waterpump away from getting it back on the road. (I hope) After plenty of faffing about with flat batteries and new batteries on other cars I realised that my battery charger fuse had gone. So I got my daily sh*t box back running and getting me to work. It then dawned on me that the green beemer battery might of been flat too and thats why it didn't start. So I put a charged battery in it and holy **** it started !! Still sounded like a bag of marbles and chains etc, but it was running. Long story short, after a bit of reading up I changed the lower chain tensioner and the loud chain dragging noise stopped completely, revealing the marbles in a can / grinding noise. With the chain noise gone, the noise now seemed to be coming from lower down, that's when I noticed the fan had a bit of a wobble on it. You can wobble the fan by hand about 10mm in any direction, pointing to a wrecked water pump. What are the chances of the chain tensioner and the waterpump going at the same time ? They're mechanically completely unconnected as far as I can make out. I'm so pleased with myself that I'm slow and unproductive at the moment, otherwise I would have got rid of it when I said I was going to a few posts up. Hurrah for Slovenly ways !! Just re-read the thread and all the answers were there all along, I could have saved myself 2 months driving my other crappy sh*t box if I had made it a priority job !! While I was looking about for info I came across an amazing video on how to replace the upper chain tensioner, strip out the vanos etc. As one commentor on Youtube said, the mans a surgeon. Hope it might help someone.
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Jan 21, 2017 17:55:32 GMT
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You might have some luck having a poke about in this thread if you haven't already. link
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Dec 30, 2016 19:03:43 GMT
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Thanks Duggers. I'd love to see it back on the road again, but I'm getting buried under the weight of my love of cars. I've currently got 4 with only 1 working (limping), with enough space for 1 car. My current daily is a gen 6 honda civic hatchback, with a knackered bonnet catch ( terrifying on the motorway) and a wheel bearing thats starting to go, not to mention I don't fit in the seat at all, made for smaller people with a more narrow draft than me, painfull after only a few miles. I'm a back axle away from getting my '93 saab 900 into daily duties after 2 or 3 years of work and the old beemer in the link above is festering a bit, which is breaking my heart. I hope it is an easy fix on the beemer for someone, but I'm all out of resources to do it. I'm gutted to have to let it go, it's by far the nicest car I've ever driven. Got to think smart for a change though.
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