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Sept 30, 2017 16:51:07 GMT
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Hi all. I'm coming to the end of all the welding on the underneath of my saab 900 now. Since I started the welding I've coated the metal with a good zinc rust paint and left it at that. I'm nearly to the point of putting the final finishing coat of paint on the underside now and doing a quick colour matched spray in of the arches etc. I'm a novice at this sort of stuff and would love to know the very best way of going about it to ensure maximum protection of my hours and hours of welding labour.  As the weather is getting wetter now, I'm a bit afraid of locking moisture in if I paint it now. The zinc primer paint I used is resin based, so it should be fine. But I want to make sure before I attack it. In my mind, if I do it on a nice day and give it a bit of a blast with a heat gun for a bit before painting, that could be enough ? Ideally I'd like to get it in a garage for a few weeks with the heat on to thoroughly dry it all out, but unfortunately, thats not an option. Am I being too over catious or is it a necessity to ensure it really is all completely bone dry ? Cheers for any help or advice. |
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Hi all. I'm coming to the end of all the welding on the underneath of my saab 900 now. Since I started the welding I've coated the metal with a good zinc rust paint and left it at that. I'm nearly to the point of putting the final finishing coat of paint on the underside now and doing a quick colour matched spray in of the arches etc. I'm a novice at this sort of stuff and would love to know the very best way of going about it to ensure maximum protection of my hours and hours of welding labour. As the weather is getting wetter now, I'm a bit afraid of locking moisture in if I paint it now. The zinc primer paint I used is resin based, so it should be fine. But I want to make sure before I attack it. In my mind, if I do it on a nice day and give it a bit of a blast with a heat gun for a bit before painting, that could be enough ? Ideally I'd like to get it in a garage for a few weeks with the heat on to thoroughly dry it all out, but unfortunately, thats not an option. Am I being too over catious or is it a necessity to ensure it really is all completely bone dry ? Cheers for any help or advice. What paint are planning on using on the underside ? Personally for maximum protection I would highly recommend using a specialist underbody wax coating and not just paint (unless you are wanting to replicate a factory paint finish) - Both Dinitrol & Bilt Hamber supply excellent quality underbody waxes (which replicate a factory finished underbody treatment and are supplied to many OEM markets) they both supply in a cartridge / sultz / compressed air fed application gun format or in a aerosol format if you do not have the facilities - Equally you need to treat any box sections / cavities with a cavity wax treatment where you have undertaken welding works but it's equally advantages to treat & protect the whole underside - It would also be critical to seam seal any panel joints that you may have within your repair areas prior to the application of underbody paint / wax / finish . Links to both companies are posted below and both do online ordering: www.dinitroldirect.com/classic-car-rustproofing-guide/www.bilthamber.com/corrosion-protection-and-rust-treatments/Has for external panel painting - you need completely dry surface preparation - damp garages with leaky roofs are the last place you need for this type of work - consider dry air flow and condensation factors - a thermostatic oil filled radiator can provide a good source of background heat - if left on overnight - forget the application of any type of paint if the temperatures are below 5 degrees and in an ideal world you need them to be above 10 degrees |
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Last Edit: Oct 2, 2017 11:04:22 GMT by Deleted
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Hi there. Thanks for the great reply, very educational. :)Exactly what I was hoping for. I haven't really thought about what paint to use. Open to suggestions really. I'd like to try and mimic the factory approach if I can. Its a 1993 saab 900s turbo. In the picture below, I've put a box around what I'd like to replicate. It looks like a chunky something, with body colour paint sprayed over the top.  I'm more than happy to go down the route you suggest though, as I'm primarily after maximum protection. I've used Dinitrol rust converter and its a fantastic product. Thanks for the links, I'll have a good old poke about in them. I've got a compressor of sorts, so I'll try an air fed application. I'll get some cavity wax too. Do you just blast the stuff right in heavy ? Only way I can get out of the weather is with a tarp hooked over my garage door and tied over the car. Makes a great little cocoon, but I can't leave it like that overnight, as the garage is pretty much on the street and would be easy to duck under the tarp and walk in. Thinking about it, I should be able to put a heater in there first thing in the morning, then paint in the evening once it's had all day in the heat. Would probably be worth heating the garage up overnight the day before too eh, should help things along. Here's the cocoon I've put it in previously.  |
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