sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 17, 2018 21:16:37 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 12, 2018 21:42:48 GMT
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nicely done chief, i did see that facebook post "you don't wanna do it like thaaaaat" (Read in harry enfield voice) i think its worked perfectly, youve done it justice. 109 hicap rare has hens teeth too, nice mod I was expecting to be told to buy a modern car! The thing is I really like the Defender seats, they fit me really well and if I can lean the seat back I don't get perpetual back pain. I also like how I can lay out across the bed of the tub and properly stretch out, so with a mattress and decent top over it I reckon it'd make a good camper. I seem to remember seeing a figure of 200 series 3 hi-caps were built, no idea how true that is? Looks smart. Needs the modesty panels on the bottom of the tub though. I have them, but since it's not the easiest thing to move (I've recently done my back in again so lifting is a struggle) I'm leaving them off until it's bolted down because I can slide it about where it is without anything catching underneath.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 10, 2018 20:09:35 GMT
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Re bookmarked as you seem to have dropped off my feed Cheers I've found this build thread really inspiring. Thank you! Thanks Update time Started the weekend like this, the tub laid on the back of the Landy out of the way and made a start stripping the old tub centre bulkhead ready to straighten and repaint it before riveting back in There is a tophat channel on the inside along the bend line, so I cut along the bend and jumped on it a few times which got it mostly straight(ish) Then I drilled out the rear quarter panels from the original tub and begun to rivet them over the top to strengthen and straighten the bulkhead panel All primed and ready for test fitting Last job was to extend floor in the cab behind the seats. I found some aluminium offcuts, folded one end and joggled the other and fitted them with an angle channel along the back edge for the bulkhead to rivet onto And the first trial fit of the bulkhead Almost perfect fit first time! Got a few little corners that need trimming and a few more rivet holes to drill, then it's line the edges with Tigerseal and stick it in. I'll plate over the remaining gaps as and when, and the cappings once tidied up and modified where needed can be painted and riveted on too. And this is how it sits now with the hi-cap tub balanced on the back
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 5, 2018 20:07:32 GMT
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I was watching one of the yank reality car shows and they sprayed Rhino liner on a quad with just a face mask in a shed. It was the scrapyard one. Glad you had look hunting. I've seen it on the internet, tv and at a few shows, just never really looked into it properly. Once I'm close to being ready to finish the inside of the tub I'll have a proper look at some application videos on Youtube (assuming there are some?) and go from there. That's two coats of epoxy primer and two coats of nato green on the underside and front. Once it's cured I can turn it over and start prepping and painting the sides, tailgate and inside, and will probably do that with it balancing off the back of the 109's chassis since the tub is taking up half a parking spot! Got a new toy for the toolbox And it works Because it was blasted to bare metal and been left outside for a couple of weeks before I bought it, the rain (yeah, who'd have thought after that summer!) got to it and the steel rivet heads had started to rust. It was a good enough excuse to buy the spot blaster kit
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 3, 2018 17:09:56 GMT
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Raptor bed liner seems to get the public vote. I'd imagine your local paint supplier can advise better. Rubberised Shultz basically, ain't it? Just had a proper look at the Raptor paint. It appears I can use my Shutz gun with it, which seems promising! From about £70 for way more that I'd probably need, seems like good value as it'd also help insulate the bed too. yeah youd prefer 20-30 psi hot idle I think they are spec'd to run at 20psi hot idle, and as I'd like to do some greenlaning running the engine at idle with light loads for long periods of time and towing a car transporter trailer eventually I need spot on oil pressure.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 2, 2018 20:07:12 GMT
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What a fantastic build. Looks awesome and being used properly. Looking forward to seeing the extended cab being built. Tom Thanks The bulkhead panel has picked out very cleanly, got some de-corroding and painting to do on the aluminium before it's all ready to do the final positioning and stitching back together This is brilliant, one of my favourite builds on RR. Can't wait to see it with the defender bed! Thanks We had a very quick trial fit earlier, and it needs a lot of work to fit properly with an extended cab, but I'm in way too deep now to give up! Oil pressure gauges should be renamed worry gauges. I'd rather worry about something that may not be an issue than be sat by the side of the road awaiting recovery again with bits of my engine trailing behind There's always something cool about a chassis cab Landy The new hi-cap tub, damn this things heavy! It's mostly straight with a few dings as to be expected, and has been media blasted all over so almost completely bare metal! Got some corrosion repairs to do on some of the mounting points as to be expected with quality Land Rover corrosion prevention methods where the aluminium meets steel The steel mounting brackets and and lower quarter panels have all been removed and the underside has been prepped for priming. It will be epoxy primed all over, and military green will be splashed over the outside and underside. What I haven't decided yet is what the inside of the bed will be? I could just spray it green with everything else, or do I have one of those spray on bed liners applied, and are they a diy job or pro only with special gear needed? It will be used for general haulage duties, building materials, tools and car parts, and also as a camper with a mattress thrown in the back on the odd occasion....
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 2, 2018 14:32:48 GMT
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Hicap is nifty! Ps how low is "low" re oil pressure Just got back from fetching it. I hate the M25, and clearly it's just as bad around Heathrow on a weekend as it is during the week! Pics later once I've sorted everything out. Oil pressure generally settles at 10psi hot idle, and instantly rises when the revs come up. However if I work the engine the pressure drops down to around 6-7psi, but after a few minutes climbs back up to 10psi as the fans kick in and do their thing. The internet tells me it should be close to 20psi hot idle, and 10 is not uncommon. Cold pressure is usually 60-90psi depending on how cold it is outside.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Sept 1, 2018 16:55:42 GMT
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Great work you have done so far. Personally don’t like the bull bar..... sorry The bullbar is like Marmite, but it's damn handy where I live! Got the oil cooler plumbed in and tested. It keeps the oil pressure up for longer, but after a long drive the pressure does still drop very low. I think it needs the main and rod bearings replacing, but no immediate hurry. Since I've spent the last few months putting everything into the P6 to get it ready for the Gathering and having a new daily driver the 109 has had a bit of a rest over the heatwave. With the P6 running now my attention has turned to sorting out some of those annoying niggles on the Land Rover, mainly the upright seat position and the lack of load bed space. So this morning I set out with the tools and removed the cab roof, drew a few cut lines and began stripping the back body Then out with the grinder Chassis looks great still, after loads of brushing off of dried mud! All going to plan I should be collecting a Defender hi-cap tub tomorrow morning and sizing it up to make the brackets and bolt it on. The remains of the old tub bulkhead will be reconstructed to move the bulkhead panel back flush and have a large storage area behind the seats. There will be a small fillet panel to move the truck cab back panel back from the doors, and the roof will be split and a section of aluminium grafted in to lengthen it.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 29, 2018 16:53:41 GMT
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Could you not adapt a fuel cooler from say, a diesel VAG car and use that in the return line? They have a flat mounted cooler mounted on the floor I've been eyeing up the fuel cooler on my Rover 75 before I scrap it, but since replacing the fuel pump I've not had any issues. It's been driven further and the fuel has remained cool, though I am running nearer a full tank now.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 28, 2018 21:23:51 GMT
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I took a car for a VIC check that I'd recently bought, and the inspector put a prohibition notice on it for a non-functioning emergency brake. The handbrake did work, not well enough to do handbrake turns in the road at speed, but was fine as a parking brake even on a slope.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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RRG18 Media Thread?sowen
@sowen
Club Retro Rides Member 24
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Aug 25, 2018 10:44:42 GMT
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 16, 2018 11:48:30 GMT
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The fun you could have tearing up behind BMWS and Audis on a commute ... I've noticed a few hold back as I catch up with other traffic, otherwise I try to be a good boy on the roads Fuel system behaving ok now? Seems absolutely fine now. There's a short dual carriageway up a hill on my way to work just off the motorway. I can have the throttle pegged down and it holds fuel pressure all the way until I back off so all seems spot on now It's a trivial thing but re the number plate lights, could you make the spacers angled to stop white light showing? Great car and the blue really suits it. That was the intention with the spacers being so thick. I think they'd look even odder than what they already do being angled so I'll find some epoxy resin or something similar and extend the shroud out a bit. Yeah that shade of blue was always the intention, just that I didn't think I could spray metallic well enough back when I started and had other mods planned on the body which are all done apart from one..... Are you bringing this down tonight to Southam? Yep, see you there if you're going I've done a few hundred miles now, so pulled the spark plugs out to have a look They appear very clean, just some black soot around the edge and a light coating of black soot in the tailpipe. The thermostat seems to be sticking open so I'm certain it's still running on a little cold start enrichment, but I've not had the laptop on the ecu since the mot yet to verify? AFR's hover around 11-14 depending on how I'm driving, with the odd excursion to 10 or 15 so that all seems fine for the lack of proper tuning I've done so far No flat spots apart from a light stutter on acceleration which would be the acceleration enrichment that needs adjusting. When cold it needs the throttle tickling for 10 seconds then it settles at about 800rpm, but when hot it likes to idle at 1400rpm! And for having a side exit just behind the drivers door it's quieter inside the cabin than what it was with the old Rover twincam, so much nicer to drive now
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 14, 2018 20:11:19 GMT
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Excellent news re the MOT pass and glad that the fettling seems to be going well. Fettling will be an ongoing job for possibly years to come. After putting a few hundred miles on it I'm already building a new list of jobs that need doing! whilst jacking it up to change the fuel pump I noticed that the front arb's do a good job of keeping the body fairly level! New pump has a larger body and uses screw fittings so no more jubilee clamps on rubber hoses I've now pressed it into daily driver service for the week until RRG to iron out any last minute major faults, racking up about 60 miles every day. It's a damn good motorway cruiser sitting at 70mph doing 2100rpm I got 'papped' entering a local car meet on the weekend, much better angle that shows off the modified lines of my P6 with a far better camera than my little point and click camera I need to start looking into uprating the clutch soon, it can't quite handle enthusiastic take off's anymore
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Last Edit: Aug 14, 2018 20:14:53 GMT by sowen
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 11, 2018 17:42:27 GMT
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Love the car and love the Go Bro's, will look forward to scouting out this one next weekend
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Aug 10, 2018 21:10:43 GMT
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Great stuff, really like what you've done to the car The sat by the side of the road because fuel problems is a familiar experience to me! I think I also had swirl pot problems, but have since redesigned the fuel feed from my tank to give plenty of fuel direct to a high pressure pump, only to find the pump is knackered I just had to replace the float on mine since that decided to fill with fuel and sink. I thought it may be a Land Rover part, but had a spare broken P6 sender to hand which has donated the float.
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I had a very similar scenario in my Elise which was indeed traced back to a faulty fuel pump - it would cut out on a hot day. Letting the car cool down or putting some fresh, cooler, fuel in would cure it for a while and then it would come back. No problems on short drives or colder days. Had an expensive racing-spec fuel pump fitted last year which solved the problem, even on very hot trackdays. Yeah that sounds a bit like what I'm getting. Can't say for colder days, they just don't happen anymore From experience generally when fuel pumps get hot they draw more amps.Is there any way you could temporarily wire an ammeter into the circuit viewable from inside the car and observe readings when fault occurs? I could, and that's not such a bad idea, just that I'm on a time limit to get the car done for RRG and thoroughly tested. It's blocked up with the tank drained awaiting new fittings to fit the new fuel pump before pressing into commuting duties again
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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What makes me convinced it's getting warm and failing is that on the two trips I did of the same route, the rate and timing of failure was almost exactly the same like I was repeating the journey. My initial thoughts were that if it was the fuel pump failing surely it just wouldn't create the pressure all of the time, but only seems to do it when hot? This also makes me think that I've had similar issues in the past with fuel supply problems on my Rover, and that pump could be partly responsible for the numerous breakdowns and waiting for it to cool down before continuing?
The lightbulb moment was remembering I used to have carburettor icing problems on my Land Rover, and that would start at exactly the same point passing under a bridge every time and clear on the same straight stretch of road without fail!
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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Is there a swirl pot (or similar arrangement) anywhere in the system, feeding the HP pump or is it just taking a tap from the bottom of the tank? Could the return line be causing aeration of the fuel (i.e. just returning the fuel to the top of the tank somewhere)? I have two 1/2" feeds from the bottom of either side of the tank which are fed into the top of a small reservoir mounted low down. This reservoir feeds the pump from another 1/2" hose, then it's 3/8" hose to the front along the transmission tunnel inside and joins directly onto the fuel rail which is just above the footwell. The return line follows the same routing to the back, but re-enters the tank through the original sender unit which is located in the bottom offset from the centre alongside the axle, with a 90 degree elbow pointing at the centre of the tank. I very much doubt it's causing aeration in the tank, or at least I really hope that's not the issue? Are the fuel lines insulated when in the engine bay? Slightly extreme, but Jaguar used the aircon system to keep the fuel cool on the V12 XJ-S but a 5.3l V12 generates an awful lot of heat although virtually all OEM fuel systems tend to have some sort of heat sleeving on the lines when they're in the engine bay. Fuel lines are not insulated and it is a tiny engine bay, but they are short where they exit the tunnel/footwell area which is just below the manifold and fuel rail. The exhaust system is on the other side completely seperate from the induction side. The fuel tank sits just above the back axle inside the boot, so I'm thinking heat is also rising in there too? The fuel pump I've got has been in a couple of my projects in the past, is unbranded and has been run dry on the odd occasion being used as a sucker pump above a tank so I'm thinking that it's just worn and struggling to pump warm fuel at pressure? I am thinking of adding heat insulation around the fuel tank and axle to reduce the heat coming up, as with most cars the fuel tank is external and would have airflow around it to help take away some heat?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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This is something that's been in my head for the last few days since getting my turbo'd Rover P6 back on the road. After the mot I drove to work, about 25 miles motorway and B roads. Most of it was gentle cruising, but after 20 miles I noticed it felt like the engine was cutting out under boost. Got to work fine and left it all day.
On the way home it progressively got worse to the point that it felt like it was stuttering on cruise on the motorway. I took it out for a hard blast yesterday with a pressure gauge attached to the fuel rail for 15 miles and it was fine, but today I did the same route to work and back and it faltered at exactly the same places as it did on Friday. I saw the pressure was dropping under load, and the last 10 miles to home the pressure was fluctuating and wouldn't rise more than about 2psi above base pressure of about 40psi.
I left it for a few hours before draining the fuel tank which was still warm, not hot, but definitely not cold, as I'd expect with an efi system pumping fuel front to back. The fuel tank is located above the back axle in the boot, and the boot floor immediately below the tank was warm.
Previously I've had lots of trouble with fuel supply and cavitation, and am beginning to think that the high pressure pump, an unbranded 044 inline type, may have become damaged and as the fuel warms up it's losing it's pumping ability? After turning it off the fuel rail still holds 40psi pressure which I believe they should do.
Is this a feasible scenario? I'm hoping replacing the pump with a new one should sort it, and should I look into fitting a fuel cooler too?
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sowen
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,245
Club RR Member Number: 24
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I demand a video when its running right . You owe us that , you can't make such a filthy car and not provide one . I've recently 'invested' in a GoPro camera, and videos will come when it's running better. I also want it to check some things underneath on the suspension as I'd like to know what it's doing under there for ideas on further mods....
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