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Dec 17, 2016 18:51:11 GMT
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As for ideas, I have a notion to build a 109 double cab with a BMW Six Cylinder and a 5 speed box, something similar to this: Alternatively if you're going for a pickup this one has a good look to it. Series Land Rovers are quite easy to make a mess of by attaching lots of bolt on tat. Part of the charm of them is the clean lines, which will take some amount of personalising, but much easier to ruin the look than with the coil sprung models.
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Dec 17, 2016 18:42:54 GMT
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If you're looking to buy then go for one in the best condition you can find. There's a fairly varied selection of engine conversions, more recently fitting 5 speed boxes from later models has become a popular trend...
There's lots of differing opinions on the best engines to fit, and a look through Facebook groups and forums will reveal at least one person who will fight to the death in effort to prove their particular engine choice is best.
Buy the best you can afford that does what you want of it and go from there if you want to modify it, alternatively you may be lucky enough to find one for sale that ticks all the boxes for you, who knows.
Rust is an issue in the chassis and bulkhead, knackered springs, worn bushes, steering joints etc. It's all easy to sort, but can swallow time and money if you start with a nail.
They're brilliant things.
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Dec 16, 2016 21:47:36 GMT
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My concern is could the engine vibration aerate the water in the rad? Doubtful, I'd suggest more likely a broken mounting due to vibration. I'm not saying it will happen, but it's a possibility as the mounts on the radiator may not be up to it. Admittedly a lot of older tractors have the radiator mounted to the same framework as the engine, so there's no real time reason it shouldn't work, but personal opinion would still be to mount it to the vehicle chassis if it's an available option.
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I see your reasoning surrounding chassis flex, but would table the notion that unless you're planning on 'off roading' the thing it's unlikely to present issue, whilst -as noted above- engine vibration may come to present more problems down the line should you mount the two together.
The other solution if you're concerned about fan/radiator interaction would be make a fresh cowl for the rad and furnished it with some big ass electric fans.
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You are not. Whatever they're badged as I've always thought of the 'other' Rover 100 as a Metro.
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I live on the West Coast of Cumbria, and I hate the cold, but not as much as I hate being cold and wet. Finding a shed to play in has to be one of the better things that's happened to me whilst I've been living here.
I'm not a great fan of snow either, but that's for entirely different reasons.
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Dec 11, 2016 18:51:20 GMT
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Britpart back box, lifespan of about 15 months of the ones that went on the Mrs truck are anything to go by.
Looking very smart though.
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With some of the ones I've seen on the roads the carrying capacity seems to be judged by how close the rear axle is to the bump stops. Quite worrying to see the odd one with a 4x4 on the back charging along at 60mph plus.
I'd agree that having B+E in your back pocket is a good idea though. I did mine about ten years ago and have found it very useful to have.
Asides the benefit of being able to tow bigger trailers, it's one less worry regards weight when you're towing something, especially as VOSA -or whatever they call themselves now- do seem to be tightening up on smaller trailers.
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I have a bit of a fancy for a P6, I'm not sure what the right colour/wheel combo would be, or what to do under the bonnet if I did though.
A worked over fuel injected Rover V8? A more modern V8 conversion, or perhaps a decent diesel engine?
Either way, a lovely purchase.
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These are utilitarian. These are heavy. They are hard to own and harder to find parts for. They are noisy and underpowered. They're old, full of rattles, leaks, creaks, groans. They only have a top speed of 55MPH. They aren't stylish, they aren't pretty. So who in their right mind would want one of these things? welcome to land rover ownership oh hangon I laughed. Looks a good basis for a project though, a bit of a clean off and some bigger rubber and you're on your way!!!
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Belgian Grand Prix? Ticket prices are probably offputting, but Spa is still a track worth visiting.
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They did. It was an XK rather than an AJ6 though, toilet tuned by Bernie with some fancy exhaust manifolds and a few other bolt on bits.
Strangely enough it's about the only thing that came out of that programme that was ever any good. Whilst some of the arguments were funny, the stuff they turned out was awful, or just ruined after they let Leepu 'follow his design'. Case point the Impreza powered Mk2 Golf. All the Impreza running gear into a Mk2 Golf Shell, finished off as a Golf, a brilliant sleeper, or throw metal an filler at it as they did and end up with something hideous.
Anyways, AJ6 is a good choice, bomb proof and British.
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Can I volunteer to have the old Rover six if/when it comes out?
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Needs to be an inline six for a P4. A variety of traumatic memories of working on V6 Omegas leaves me unable to contemplate them as a sensible option either.
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Nov 26, 2016 17:38:53 GMT
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the oil is very black and pretty thick so I'm hoping this is the cause of my flickering oil pressure They're not an engine that had ludicrously high oil pressure even when new, with 20 odd Psi seen as pretty good. I've found with Land Rover variants of the same engine (7MB 2.6 units) that even with a good quality 20w/50 oil that the oil light will flicker at idle when warm. It's a combination of engine wear, and the fact they never had a ludicrously high oil pressure anyways. Keep in mind that the oil pressure switch will put the light off around 5 or 6 Psi, whilst they tend to idle about 500rpm, so the oil pump isn't shifting a great deal of fluid either. If the light goes out once you get to around 800rpm -which they usually do- then statistics say that they will continue to run reliably for quite a while yet. The newest of these engines -from the late model six cylinder Land Rovers- is 37 years old, whilst the newest original fitment P4 lumps are going to be 54, so some wear is to be expected. A full rebuild of one will involve an amount of custom made parts -the exhaust rocker shaft has been NLA since about 1982- so if it's running sweetly with reasonable oil pressure then stick with it. The 3 litre variant of the Rover six will fit in with very little effort and has a reasonable step up in power/torque, but they are just as, if not more rare than the 2.6 these days. I reckon a 2.8 litre BMW M52 with a RWD LT77, R380 or ZF 4HP22 on the back would be a smart modern conversion for a P4, and in keeping with the original character of the vehicle, but that's just me thinking out loud as we're talking Six Cylinder Rovers.
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I've had good sucess with 'Winchmax in the past, was still working fine when I sold the trailer.
As noted, you don't need anything overly fancy for dragging dead motors onto a trailer. An Anderson jack mounted somewhere at the rear of your main tow vehicle to power the Winch from is also a good idea, saves having to lug about a seperate battery for the Winch, or worry about charging it.
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Nov 23, 2016 21:54:19 GMT
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A good as new recon 3.9 with Top Hat liners is only £3800(Inc VAT) From Turner Engineering. Asides the block issues with some later V8's -the most susceptible being from about 95 through to 2001- with the Rover V8 they also suffer with stretching timing chains and cam lobes wear. The fact that most will be 13 years old or more by now means that buying a second hand one is really a pig in a poke. A lot of people give them little credit as a decent engine, but for a nice compact V8 with a low COG and a reliable 200-250bhp they still hold merit. Anyways, I think I'm waffling again...
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Nov 22, 2016 22:34:23 GMT
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Daslandroverman, did you eat a LR Haynes manual? 18 years messing with, repairing and rebuilding all examples of the marque, along with a bit of moonlighting writing about the things -both professionally and for my own entertainment- means I know my subject pretty well. Not sure what block sealer you've tried, but got to be worth a little more research to see if there's something that would solve the problem for you before you pull the engine out? I'll leave it at that for the moment save I might end up repeating myself.
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Nov 22, 2016 19:31:54 GMT
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I suppose it comes down to the difference between 'letter of law' and 'spirit of law'.
Doubtless that in a few more years time there will be moves so we'll all have to run tachograph, even for shifting your own stuff or doing favours for friends etc.
Probably doesn't help there are as many people prepared to do jobs on the cheap and completely flout the rules surrounding being an operator, but that's a debate for another thread.
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It was a pleasant enough way to fill an hour. I did think some of the figures being banded about were a bit daft though.
£5k for a cage? Custom Cages do them in T45 for £2.5 plus VAT...
Still, pretty car, and decent entertainment.
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