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Dec 24, 2016 17:32:49 GMT
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The Petrol Disco options are V8, or Mpi, the Mpi uses an adapter plate to mate the engine onto a box which seems to have a somewhat longer than standard input shaft and a Tdi pattern bellhousing.
It's not really beyond the wit of man to make up an adapter plate to go between the engine and gearbox of your choice though. I'd agree the KV6 isn't a bad engine, just leave yourself room to get into the front of the engine to change the timing belts in future.
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Dec 24, 2016 13:52:14 GMT
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My one looks like this at the moment. Looks like you've got a good project there though. Modular Rims in Limestone are a good look if you're after opinions for wheels.
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Dec 24, 2016 13:33:44 GMT
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Lots of people are full if curse word when it comes to talking about gas.
For the same performance an engine will use maybe 5-10% more gas as LPG has a lower calorific value than petrol, but the overall cost of the fuel tends to be about 50% that of petrol -with the government still committed to keeping the duty on LPG at the same level compared to petrol on a rolling 3 year period, ie the fuel duty on LPG will remain at 50% (or whatever) of what the petrol duty is, for at least the next 3 years, even if they changed their minds tomorrow- which in turn means that running costs are reduced as the fuel cost for the same distance is reduced.
The best example of this was my old 3.9 V8 Range Rover which at 15mpg on gas cheaper to run than a diesel model which would average 27mpg for the same driving.
I know a chap who gassed a Fiat Chinqecento (late 90s square fiat box thing) and was getting over 100mpg equivalent out of the thing buzzing up and down the country.
As for performance, as with all these things, when it's setup correctly then it will be just as good as on petrol. Some engines seem to run even sweeter on gas than petrol to boot.
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Dec 24, 2016 13:20:03 GMT
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I'll be honest, in my experience of electronic injection the systems themselves are quite reliable.
Failures attributed to 'unreliable electronics' are usually 'mechanical' or other issues which can be equally prevalent on carburettor engines, for example ignition components, fuel pumps etc.
Sensors are something that can fail, but again when something is ten years old or more then it's not unreasonable for something to have had its day. It's something even easier to work with as if you plug it in to a fault reader the engine is even kind enough to tell you what it thinks is wrong.
Lack of understanding or the required knowledge/tech to see what the electronics are doing tends to be the main reason people turn to carbs, but considering that there's usually a good aftermarket and enthusiast understanding of a system by the time it's ten years old it's not really an excuse anymore.
I will concede that some newer stuff strangled down with emissions etc is that bit more complicated, and makes it harder to work with as a transplant, but with the right support -as has been noted already- they can be made to work well.
Why not enjoy the benefits of electronics?
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Dec 24, 2016 11:47:25 GMT
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Gas doesn't go off like petrol, so occasional use wouldn't bother it.
New kit isn't that expensive, and with the bits you'd need to replace to make a used kit fit properly (a fair amount of the pipework and possibly wiring) they're not really worth the hassle, unless it's ten miles away, is cheap, nay free and comes with a large and very full tank.
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The wife is more than hinting she wants a Vista Cruiser and you still haven't bought one? Never seen one before but they look fantastic!!! If I were to be picky then RHD would be nice, but that looks like a brilliant barge to waft along in.
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Dec 23, 2016 22:09:58 GMT
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Quite correct. I've done some work removing factory gas systems and replacing them with more serviceable AEB based system.
Gas isn't a bad thing to run a vehicle on (I've had quite a few LPG powered V8's in my time) but the main issue is always supply. Unless you have an LPG station close to home, or work near/at one etc then filling up becomes something of a chore.
I'm mostly diesel powered at present as the nearest LPG supplier is 15 miles (nearly half an hour) up the road, and I'm at work for all but four of the hours they're open in a week, whilst I can get diesel within 5 minutes drive of home.
To surmise, gas is good, but only if it's convenient to buy it, and you're not buying a vehicle with a system that you can actually service. Certainly not something to be scared of as some would make out.
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Dec 22, 2016 21:14:43 GMT
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Torque curve of the 4 litre cologne certainly looks impressive. I must admit the main reason I mentioned it was due to being offered a cheap one locally, and have half seriously considered fitting it into my 110.
I might buy it either way, from what I've read they seem a very robust and long lived engine, dare I say it a better option than a standard 3.5 or 3.9 Rover V8 if you wanted a fairly large capacity petrol engine, particularly for a Land Rover or similar.
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Dec 22, 2016 20:47:21 GMT
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How about the 4 litre variant of the Cologne V6 used in the Ford Explorer?
Cheap as, and pretty bomb proof.
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Dec 21, 2016 21:36:49 GMT
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so u-bolts should be easily available from there There's a few decent spring companies in the UK. Somewhere like Owen Springs would likely be able to make a set of lowering springs if you told them how much of a drop you wanted. A set of rear UK Bolts from the back end of a LWB Land Rover (Series II with Rover pattern axle) might provide an extra inch or two in length as the spring pack is 12 leaf on them.
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it seems unclear what the physical changes have to be. A Direct email to VOSA or DVSA or whatever they call themselves now would probably answer the question. They're generally quite helpful if you write in and ask.
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Dec 20, 2016 21:38:50 GMT
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I don't believe down rating requires any modification to a vehicle, you're simply limiting the permitted carrying capacity, with likely changes in tax class, required licence to drive etc.
Up rating on the other hand I suspect would require mods unless you could prove the spec of the vehicle was the same as a production example with a higher MGW.
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Dec 19, 2016 18:45:24 GMT
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A nice rumbling V6, with the Captain Scarlet theme as background music. Class!
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Dec 19, 2016 18:43:38 GMT
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A set of adapters would be a fairly straightforward solution there?
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Dec 18, 2016 18:07:03 GMT
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Two engines geared together driving a common transmission?
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Dec 18, 2016 17:25:18 GMT
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No problem at all. Nice to know 18 years spent messing about with the things has some benefit to others.
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Dec 18, 2016 16:41:54 GMT
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Goes up to the air cleaner. They were quite ornate on the P4/P5 six cylinders.
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Dec 18, 2016 15:53:52 GMT
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V8's...
Just like anything else on a Series motor, a good one is a good engine for them, a well abused and worn out one is just awful. The usual issues with them are stretched timing chains which will throw ignition and cam timing out, along with their predisposition to wear the lobes off the cam. It's not uncommon to find them running with 2 or 3 of the 16 cam lobes completely round, the only real symptoms being loss of power and a marked increase in fuel consumption.
Easy enough to rebuild, whilst later cams can make the old 3.5 a bit more lively, as will some porting work on the heads, but a proper rebuild with decent quality parts will cost you £700 upward.
Personal preference is to dump the carbs in favour of the standard efi setup which makes them a much better engine to my mind.
Fast? A fit one will give a reasonable turn of speed, but it depends on how it's geared and the state of tune the engine is in as to just how quick it actually is.
A proper Stage 1 V8 is also a nice prospect, but their relative rarity -and a reasonable list of unique parts- means it's harder to do one 'properly' and they're becoming more of a collectors item.
A good 3.5 will do similar or better fuel consumption than a 2.25 petrol.
Seats etc from a coil sprung motor will fit easily enough as the interior space is basically the same, you may need to drill a few holes though.
As to what sort of money to pay, the going rate for an MOT'd runner is probably £2.5k in the usual marketplaces, but if you're lucky then you can pick up a decent one from £1200 or so, but you have to be quick.
As to what engine to go for, the Series III I'm currently running is a 2.5 diesel with a 5 speed box which is a fairly simple installation and gives a nice relaxed drive. As mentioned above, I fancy building one with a BMW Six Cylinder on a 5 speed box, which done properly would make a nice vehicle which was quick enough to give people a bit of a surprise, but it comes down to personal opinion I suppose.
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Dec 18, 2016 15:28:17 GMT
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We have a couple of Cabstars at work, one is a '99 vintage, the other a 2015.
The 1999 one has been ragged about some, which won't help, but I don't much care for it. Being fairly tall and gangly probably doesn't help (shorter chaps quite like the thing) but cab space is pretty tight, the gear change is notch, and I find the brakes hard to live with as the pedal isn't in a position I can use it comfortably, and when I do press it they seem pretty digital. I don't really like the umbrella type handbrake setup either. The engine is pretty lusty though, and it does pull well.
The 2015 one has a larger cab, which is more comfortable for the taller driver, better gear change, and a more traditional handbrake lever, a great improvement over the earlier ones, but with a current book process ofn £13k it's probably more than you'd want to spend on a cheap tipper.
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The pickup is the model for me,really like the overall look of these. What wheel options are there ? Do the modern style fit? Lots of wheel options available in the standard Land Rover 5x165 -or 5x6.5"- with some more expensive than others. I've never been the biggest fan of Alloys on a Series motor, but they can look good with a set of Turbovec's. To my eye, Modular (as in the picture above) Wolf and Mach 5 all look pretty smart on Series motors. I see the key to getting them right as having the wheels fill the arches and sit flush with the body. As to running them as daily drivers, I've had a variety of them on the road as my main car over the past 13 years, and currently using our Series III as my main motor. In truth, provided they start first time, the brakes are properly adjusted, the steering isn't full of worn joints, springs with some movement, working shock absorbers and maybe a bit of hot air from the heater then it's as pleasant a drove as a coil sprung motor. Equally, drive one that's the opposite of the above, and it's a bloody awful experience, as it would be with most classic cars in a similar state. I could spend a lot more time going on about the merits and pitfalls of the things, but I doubt you need more persuading to buy, nor anymore reason to try and put yourself off.
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