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So, after six years of use and abuse the autobox decided it's had enough. I believe it's the usual failure of the first gear ratchet clutch, and to be fair to the thing it was an unknown quantity when it went in, has covered the thick end of 30k miles in the 110 with a big heavy 4 cylinder diesel banging away in front of it, including lots of towing, and varying oil level due to a slow leak in the cooler, and even losing all its oil when a cooler line split. They're pretty hardy those old ZF 4 speeds... Anyways, by quaint coincidence I was heading for my workshop with this in the trailer. So, rather than the original plan of being organised and putting the engine and gearbox together and having everything going ready to drop into the car over a weekend it's now parked up waiting for me to pull the engine and box and replace it with the BMW, and the manual box I've decided to fit behind it. Not the best way it could have happened, but such is life.
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Jan 23, 2017 16:43:23 GMT
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Parcelmonkey. Seems pretty good really.
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Had a look myself, less than £10 seems doable.
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I'm on the Cumbrian coast, not far from the controversial nuclear hotspot of Sellafield.
Nice part of the world really...
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Jan 22, 2017 21:34:11 GMT
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If I can get a reasonable price for a courier then starter and flywheel please.
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Any chance of size and weight for the flywheel so I could price a courier?
A better question would also be is it the 228mm or 242mm clutch?
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Cheers, it's on the watch list.
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There is however possibility that it would receive a reg of the same age as the Celica as the DVSA do have some provision for vehicles assembled from a single donor car.
I suppose all will become clear eventually.
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Jan 18, 2017 21:01:14 GMT
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Interesting. What arms does it have with it?
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Jan 15, 2017 16:20:35 GMT
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I'm trying to find myself a spot welder fairly cheap as it would be ideal for a fabrication project I'm working on.
Ideally no more than £150 and single phase. Anyone got anything that might suit?
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Jan 15, 2017 15:16:44 GMT
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The best ones I've seen tend to be cardboard cunningly disguised as metal.
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Jan 15, 2017 10:22:30 GMT
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Having just browses through 15 pages, I'm more than impressed.
More practice required to get my sheet metal skills up to par.
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Jan 14, 2017 16:38:54 GMT
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They do look rather good in Atlantic Green though. Snowy photo as the country is in a panic about it at the moment.
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Jan 14, 2017 10:24:25 GMT
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The Sintra had a terrible reputation in the UK. As I mentioned, thought by some to be the worst Opel ever made. Access isn't too spectacular - it sits transverse in there half under the scuttle. I remember a customer at the garage i apprenticed at who had the 4 banger petrol one, it could only be described as hateful to work on. It was almost an engine out job to do the timing belt, the chap who actually did it was tiny, so managed it in the car but it still took forever. A head gasket on the thing took about 3 days, with reasonable access and hanging on a 2 post lift... I can't remember what eventually killed it, but we were very pleased to learn of its demise.
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Jan 11, 2017 14:40:51 GMT
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EH box unfortunately, so back to the electronics controller problem.
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Jan 11, 2017 13:31:54 GMT
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The valve block is all I would really want from the BMW box, the rest of the Land Rover internals are a lot tougher than were supplied elsewhere, but again the expense of buying a BMW box, if I could find one.
A diesel P38 gearbox would do the job of joining engine and box, but asides the expense of buying one, I'd still need to swop the input shaft into a Defender type box and be left with needing a dual mass flywheel, and a pull off clutch.
The V8 pattern R380 I have is near brand new, and I can make an adapter which fits it up with a standard Land Rover flywheel, and clutch etc, which keeps things a lot simpler, especially when the adapter will be less than £100 if I make it up myself.
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Jan 10, 2017 20:23:30 GMT
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I have my suspicions they would try to sell me a rebuilt EH box with a Compushift controller, at a mere £1300 plus VAT.
Considering I'm aiming to have the engine in the vehicle and drivable for £300 or so it's a non starter.
Make an adapter to put it onto an R380 it is then.
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I wonder if anyone with a bit of knowledge about how autoboxes work can help me out here?
I've bought a BMW M52B28 to drop into my 110. At present it runs a ZF4hp22 autobox from a V8 model, and I'm still trying to decide if I should stick with the auto or go with the manual box I have sitting.
At present the main stumbling block is how the V8 valve block would cope with the BMW. My knowledge of autoboxes stretches far enough to know it basically looks at the engine speed (input) the road speed (output) and throttle position to decide which gear it wants to be in, with various settings altered to give different shift points, TC lockup speed etc to suit the engine.
From this I can deduce that there's going to be some difference as the V8 has its peak torque at 2600rpm, and peak power at 4750, compared to the BMW at 3900rpm and 5300 respectively. Add in the functional redline of the V8 is about 5200rpm on a good day, whilst -with an alteration to the ECU settings- the BMW will spin up to 7000rpm.
So, whilst I reckon canny use of the throttle would see the engine and box working fairly well, I find myself thinking that the TC lockup and shift into 4th gear could well find themselves murdering the engine just as it's coming on song rather than making the most of what's on tap.
Is my thinking straight enough here?
I don't want to fit an EH box and associated controller as my wallet won't allow it, and finding a BMW varient of the 4HP22 to rob the valve block from also seems prohibitively expensive, whilst I wouldn't be best pleased if I'd made up the adapter kit and found it horrible to drive.
Build it with the manual box seems a more attractive option all the time.
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A great example of following the computer. Anyone with a bit of nouse would be doing a continuity test of the wiring betwixt ECU and sensor, and a visual inspection of the sensor plug and the loom heading back to the ECU.
It's not complicated, just time consuming, which the dealers would rather not be paying their techs the time for.
I think a friendly chat with the service manager is needed. You're obviously happy to pay the 'diagnostic charge' even though it's told you nothing new, whilst they're probably within their right to ask you to pay for the sensor, or a small surcharge on it if they remove it and replace your old one.
There is a bit of difference between you instructing them 'please diagnose and fix the non starting fault' and telling them 'replace the crankshaft sensor'.
If the manager has any nouse and realises you're smart enough to know what you're talking about then it shouldn't be too hard to resolve amicably. Unfortunately there's far to many people who don't have a clue and will quite happily let the garage do as they wish, and pay for it on their credit card without question so long as their car starts and goes when they want it too.
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In the modern age of sensors and electronics it's not uncommon for garages to have a look at the codes thrown up and either 'best guess' or Google it to see if it's a common fault with a known solution.
There's often a lot of reliance on the computer telling you what's wrong, with no 'real' diagnostic work carried out to figure out why a particular fault is being flagged up, hence a lot of 'replace parts until it goes away' work.
I won't argue that modern engines -and vehicles in general- aren't complex electronic systems, but the basics remain the same as always, and a sound basic knowledge of the system combined with the use of computers -and google- as fault finding tools to assist a diagnosis is as foolproof a method as one could hope for.
There's more could be said about traditional mechanicing skills/knowledge dieing out, and that most young lads are now trained as 'fitters' who change broken bit for new and not much else. I count myself lucky to have served my time in a proper 'Old School' garage, whilst my initial training was as an agricultural engineer, so I've learned a great deal more than I might have otherwise done had I ended up going through a main dealers technician training programme.
Slightly related example, last week at work (I'm a plant mechanic for an agrictural contractor/compost/wood fuels company) I was presented with a JCB Telehandler which -according to the farm fitter- needed a head gasket as it kept boiling up, and had an air leak in the fuel system as it kept cutting out.
My spidey sense told me the engine was in fact fine -Perkins Phasers are bloody hardy things- and some proper investigation found a hydraulic leak above the fan cowling, which combined with barley dust had completely choked the radiator and the fan cowl with a solid oily gunk. Replace the leaky pipe, clean out the radiator and fan, and back to running like a sweetie. The cutting out issue? Blowing out the fuel lines, cleaning the sedimentar bowl and giving it a fresh fuel filter cured that one.
I could cite lots of other examples, but that's the most recent. I would also add I'm always learning, and don't mind admitting if I don't know, or if I've made a cock up.
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