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Jan 29, 2019 21:26:24 GMT
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Sorry to hear about the setback with the welder person; for both your sakes.
Good tinmen are getting hard to find around here, hope you have better luck with the next guy.
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Jan 21, 2019 12:44:07 GMT
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When doing the roof panel on the Molvo,I was not prepared for the weight of the gun with a full cup of paint. While not a big deal, it did nag at my concentration at first and might have been a problem had I not got over it during the filler stages. When doing a large flat panel, I was told not to start in the middle, work back to the edge of the roos and then go around and pick up from the middle on the other side. What I was told to do is start from the roof edge and paint in towards the middle, then go around and pick up the wet edge from the other side and move towards the edge. If you have not already developed a spray plan when doing the primer a fun thing to do is load the gun up with water and shoot the car after the sealer coat is on and sanded to 600. Not only will it allow you to practice the paint plan, but the reflections will also pooint out any imperfections and give you a pretty good idea of how good the paint is going to look.
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Jan 20, 2019 14:39:23 GMT
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I had a good chuckle over your travails with the high build primer going off in the gun... This was a result of my first go with the featherfil high build primer. That is about a $40 paperweight. And yeah, bit of frantic joy saving the gun from the stuff going off. I am new to it and not a big fan of bodywork either, but will give the Durablock sanding blocks a lot of the credit for ending up with a great finish. If not familiar with them google them up and check youtube for some vids on how to use them or any block sanding in general. I did all of my sanding with 80 grit on the Durablocks until I was convinced that the surfaces/shapes were perfect. Then I smooth the highfill featherfill with 240, then 400 and finally a sealer coat sanded wet to 600 grit. I envy you the small car! For those who are following in your steps, I would be interested in knowing your paint protocol. My research let me to a process where I did all the metalwork/welding. Then epoxy prime the whole car and do the filler work on top of epoxy primer. Then the high fill (aka contour primer) stage you are at until the shape is perfect. Then a sealer and finally base and clear coats.
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Last Edit: Jan 20, 2019 14:58:49 GMT by bjornagn
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Here is how know that God has a sense of humor and that she hates me on a personal basis... Anyone see the issue here? Old lock door lock barrel on the left and the new one installed after a long fight, on the right.
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Jan 19, 2019 19:13:26 GMT
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Continuing in the same thread as posted before. Not much to see in a picture, but the door now has a window that goes up and down smoothly and a latch and lock function that works as intended. On the lock subject...that is a new lock barrel in the button. Only 22 individual components to that item. I recommend that you do not dismantle until the new barrel is in front of you, or else you get to play the jigsaw puzzle game at a later date. Then I had to scratch my head for a while to figure out how to lock the door from the inside. Seems that if you PUSH the door lever rather than pull it, it locks the car. Who knew? Cool once I figured it out. On to the other side...
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Jan 15, 2019 14:14:41 GMT
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Why do THEY always have to be right?
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Jan 15, 2019 12:18:30 GMT
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Aaah, the familiar frustrations of a new stage of the build... Enough to drive one mad. So just keep cool and stick with it! I think you nailed it...Going from one stage of the project is trying. You go from almost knowing what you are doing to not having a clue once again. Another caveat on the final assembly is don't underestimate the cost of this stage. A box of clips and trim that you can hold in one hand and cost over $100 is the norm. Lots of lost, missing,damaged, jumbled or incorrect parts that have to be sorted when doing final assembly and they all stop the progress that you thought would happen on a given session.
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Jan 14, 2019 15:58:21 GMT
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Where this project is at..."Progress by a thousand setbacks and evolutionary direction changes" Re the pic below...A lot went on here, but can I call it progress when most of it was changes to stuff that was already there: The cooling fan has gone from mechanical to electrical The alternator has gone from 1 wire to the 3G Ford alternator that bolts directly to the Ford bracket. Abandoned the idea of tucking the AC compressor under that PS of the engine and went with factory brackets and locating. The good news is that the Grille shell fits the body perfectly. The bad news is that the mesh grille will need to be redesigned to fit and attach. That sucks! Plan was to cross that off the list on Sunday! See the one headlight bucket with no light? Plan was to have eyeballs in this thing by today. Cant find one of the headlight bucket rubbers and the standoffs to hold/adjust the lights are also on the way but not here...so that slides down the calendar also. And before anyone chimes in that exact air filter as you see it now is not going to clear the hood, but there is a solution in place. But of course the parts are not in residence right this minute. The good news is the vent window is in place. The bad news? See the key location is vacant? Waiting for a new lockset from VP. Cant move ahead until that arrives. See all the nice shiny stuff, the good news is that I have not yet had an industrial accident with the buffing wheel. Yet. Polishing this stuff is kinda scary as a wrong move will shoot the trim piece across the room like a giant knife! Here is something that is pretty much off the list. The mudflaps and front rubber mud protector are attached to the car. With the wheels moved out a few inches from stock, it needs this to protect the quarter panels. The bad news is that I still need to find a "Gill" that goes in front of the filler, for this side of the car. All in, it was a good Sunday. Progress might not be linear, but it is happening. Pete
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Jan 14, 2019 13:10:06 GMT
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I would suggest that the pilot of the exo-coaster above could benefit from some personal streamlining.
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Jan 13, 2019 12:36:59 GMT
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Grille is attached to the grill shell and just because I found this on top of the Beer fridge and just because it fits perfect with the holes in the mesh... Yay or Nay?
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Jan 13, 2019 12:31:42 GMT
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So, with the Jeerango taillights going over the horizon...whats next in line?
Pete
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Jan 10, 2019 19:52:12 GMT
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Does your neighbor know you stole a chunk of his barn roof? Pete
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Last Edit: Jan 10, 2019 19:53:37 GMT by bjornagn
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I can still run some beads in the tin. However it will be covered with a layer of rubber mat at least 1/4" so drumming is not an expected issue. Maybe... Regardless, the rear deck is going to be declared a work in progress and left flexible for future development.
My goal or populating the door shells with windows ans such ran into a wall when the door-locks would not work. Since the doors need to be torn down to a base shell to change the locks, I need to source a solution before I can move forward. That solution requires the funds and calender's time to get the bits!
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Still picking away at it. This is a bit of a frustrating point for me since it seems like progress is non-linear and I am one of those people who like to finish something, bask in the sense of satisfaction from having pulled it off, and then move on to the next task.. There are about 200 items on the to-do list, but I seem to keep running into situations where the task I start requires that I complete something else before I can finish that and so on and so on. So I kink of pick at stuff and there is not much to post or show. But the thing IS starting to look like a car. New tyres, Wheels cleaned. Some Chrome parts buffed and on to stay, STARTING to look like a car rather than a car part. So I will post some pics and you guys can tell me if you see any progress. The big elephant in the room is the wiring. I am thinning out the Miata harness, so no engine controls, no ABS, no side-markers, no headlight retractors and I need to understand where the pcu came into place with any of the remaining functions like AC or daytime running lights ( cause Canada car).
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Last Edit: Jan 6, 2019 16:19:44 GMT by bjornagn
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Dec 31, 2018 15:55:00 GMT
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That is fantastic. Please tell me you'll be keeping that switch panel! Yes 100% iam restoring it back how it was when it was built,I will be replacing the switches and lights with like for like Any chance you will make it less "puffy" looking? I like the fabric but it looks a bit quilted. And the labels? Trying to think of a way to make that more elegand than the label-makert. Mini embroidery? Maybe a surround like this?
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Dec 30, 2018 16:08:21 GMT
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As much as I like to see a project arrive cause I love the challenge and I get to meet a new owner, I equally enjoy the sight of the taillights going away! Go figure/
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Dec 30, 2018 12:46:40 GMT
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How do yo go about getting all that fiberglass cleaned-up inside and out? Can it be media blasted?
And what is the construction? Is the shell a monocoque like an Elite or is it a body on frame or frame integrated into the glass body?
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Dec 24, 2018 23:03:58 GMT
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And a posi in the rear end!
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Last Edit: Dec 24, 2018 23:04:36 GMT by bjornagn
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Dec 24, 2018 14:01:23 GMT
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I have given some consideration to widening the fenders, but could not mentally see flairs of any design that would complement the P1800 design.
The Miata track limits me to 195-55-16 tires on a 48 mm offset rim. MAYBE a 205 would fit, but a fender roller would maybe have to be used.
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Dec 20, 2018 22:13:08 GMT
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That crumpled RH framerail might be your pass to get creative with the engine swap side of things. The factory steering and crossmember make the V8 swap much harder than it needs to be.
The danger is that one you let your mind go down this road, there is no place to stop!
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