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That is the biggest problem with it, you just cant get it clean enough. Those manifolds are made of a really cheap nasty grade of alloy, which seems almost porous. It's as if the oil has soaked into the metal and just want's to spit back at you.

Then there is the problem that the cut off part never quite fits at the other end properly, so it always looks hideous and takes ages.

If there is an off the shelf solution always go that route first.

Get a can of freeze spray.

Warm up the dents with a heatgun and push out to the shape you want, then while holding the metal in position use the spray to cool the area around the dent, and then the dent itself.

Chassis Developments have their own testing facility, so once it has been modified to an agreed type approval they test it themselves.

Do a google search for: Snap on C47B

By far the best bolt extractors I have ever owned.

I've pulled apart many a Merc and BMW loom for engine conversions, and I can tell you there are quite a few soldered connections hidden in those.

As for the comment about race and rally cars not having soldered joints, if it's a trackside repair we solder and heatshrink. If it's an alteration in the shop we make a patch harness from the nearest multiplug for the complete wire run, crimp connectors are not normally used to add wiring.

Your looking for a om616 engine, also found in w123 e class and w460 G wagons.

Pin 18 doesn't do anything, ignore that one.

All sensor grounds AND the shielding of the grey cables is connected to pin 20.

Pins 32 and 33 should be your crank sensor, which should be the two wires inside one of the shielded cables.

Pins 4 and 21 should be the cam sensor, which go inside the other shielded cable.

Pins 22 and 23 go to the engine block ground, Not to battery negative.

I'm not a fan of microsquirt by any means, but from what I remember there is only one sensor ground wire (black and white iirc). The shielding for the cam and crank sensors should be connected to that, the other 2 sensor wires go to their own pins on the ecu.

Are your crank sensor wires using the shielded cable? And the cam also?

Just read through the thread, some great things going on here. I'll try to help you with some of your questions.

For engine mounts I'm not 100% sure but I suspect that you can use the mounting arms from a r107 300sl, with the w108 rubber mounts. Failing that custom arms are the way to go.

The m104 is meant to sit at angle with the sump flat to the ground, do not stand it upright.

The gearbox you have is the correct one to use, it is from a m111 4cyl. The v6 gearboxes have a completely different bell housing pattern and don't fit (m112 and m272).

You mentioned about fitting efi injectors into the intake. If your planning on going efi you would be better to use the later engines that use efi already, it saves alot of work. The inlet on those is smaller so will help with your space issue.

Flywheels are a bit crucial to your swap. If your keeping the cis injection then the flywheel you've bought is perfect. If your going standalone then the flywheel from a late m111 will be better as it has a 60-2 trigger wheel built in. (the m111 crank sensor is a perfect fit in the m104 block to read it). If you swap to a later m104 engine (m104.991 onward) and want to use the factory efi, the flywheel must have the 3 timing segments AND the cps magnet for the ignition timing to work.

The cis wiring harness needs 3 wires powering up to run the engine, nice and simple. The efi engines need a little more work but is fairly straightforward.

Hope the above is of some help.