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If they are sensor grounds surely they terminate individually on the ecu pins? It's normally the lives that is ganged together.
But if they are just earths and you don't want to solder, there are various small junction boxes for just that purpose. I wouldn't want a load of exposed crimp connectors on the sensor wiring.
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Last Edit: Mar 9, 2019 0:00:42 GMT by carat 3.6
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Year?
saloon or avant?
engine?
we need details.
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Last Edit: Mar 7, 2019 23:28:19 GMT by carat 3.6
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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I've got some, but which engine are we talking about? They are different....
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Feb 27, 2019 20:15:10 GMT
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No problem, let us know how you get on.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Feb 27, 2019 16:14:18 GMT
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You don't fit an isolation switch directly after the meter as it will then turn off every circuit in the house, which is bad practice. You use a second consumer unit so that when isolated it will only affect your charger. Also bear in mind a isolation switch has no fault protection, so hooking the charger directly up to one of those would result in the protection being the 100amp fuse. Again not a good idea. My reading of your picture has the meter at the bottom, under where you have marked for a switch. Thanks for reply, the company have requested it that way, they want it after the meter but in the meter box and I have suggested it be moved inside the garage as it would be easier for me, otherwise I would need to change the tails in the box so the switch could be located to the side of it. The only reason that it is required is that they won't pull the fuse to break into the feed but will use an isolation switch where fitted. The charger will have it's own CU taken off from after the isolation switch so if the charger does trip it won't effect the rest of the house. The long and short of it is, they won't pull the fuse because it's illegal for them to do so but they are fine flicking/turning a switch if one is present. They won't fit a switch because again that would involve them pulling the fuse so it's up to me to find an electrician to do it if I want the charger fitted by them. This seems to be a common requested for the Zoe when I looked into it, my only question is, is there a reg that states the iso switch needs to be in the meter box? Thanks There is no regulation that I can think of that requires anything to be fitted in the meter box. And I can't imagine any sparky would want to do that. I would ring back and ask if they are happy with the iso in a dedicated consumer unit (which is the iso anyway), as that is the way your sparky will want to do it. Remember they are not qualified electricians so cannot dictate to you what should be where, the decision will be made by your sparky as he is responsible for it.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Feb 26, 2019 22:59:03 GMT
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That is not a good way of doing it, you fit a spliter box after the meter and run a dedicated consumer unit for the charger. You don't need the isolator switch as the CU has one built in. Alot of electricians are qualified to remove and reseal the 100amp fuse, so just get them to do the full job. That's the point though, they want an isolation switch because they won't pull the fuse. The splitter box is after the meter in the picture as is the isolation switch. This was so they could fit me a charge point for £250. If I were to have it done myself it will cost a lot more but obviously as you said I wouldn't need an isolation switch. Why is the isolation switch no good there out of interest? You don't fit an isolation switch directly after the meter as it will then turn off every circuit in the house, which is bad practice. You use a second consumer unit so that when isolated it will only affect your charger. Also bear in mind a isolation switch has no fault protection, so hooking the charger directly up to one of those would result in the protection being the 100amp fuse. Again not a good idea. My reading of your picture has the meter at the bottom, under where you have marked for a switch.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Feb 26, 2019 21:41:00 GMT
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That is not a good way of doing it, you fit a spliter box after the meter and run a dedicated consumer unit for the charger.
You don't need the isolator switch as the CU has one built in.
Alot of electricians are qualified to remove and reseal the 100amp fuse, so just get them to do the full job.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Feb 24, 2019 10:43:20 GMT
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I think you need to bin the resonator first, then see if you want more noise.
£500 sounds a tad high for a back box delete, but you wont get a good job for £250. £350 is more like it.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Feb 23, 2019 23:09:56 GMT
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Solved.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Hi guys, does anyone have an interesting front bumper for a w124? My old Zender one is utterly shagged so looking for a replacement.
Cash waiting. Cheers.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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The alfa's brakes are a copy of what Merc did back in 2000, and the idea was binned as being curse word back then. They are not electric as such, the driver still pushes the hydraulic master cylinder as normal. The electric part is a computer decides how fast and how hard you pushed the brakes, then attempts to speed up the process. No vehicle can have full electric brakes as it would fail an MOT, the DS system is ok because they are still hydraulic and work with the engine pump running to give pressure. HGV air brakes are similar in the that the engine must be running to maintain air pressure. I've not tried a DS without the engine running but I imagine your glad of a mechanical handbrake in that situation. The handbrake on a HGV with air brakes has nothing to do with air per se, in that the handbrake is spring operated. All the air does is hold the brake off, so it is ‘fail safe’. You have no air, i.e pipe bursts, engine fails, compressor fails whatever, handbrake comes on not the other way round I know, I wasn't talking about how they operate. I was referring to the different types of brakes and how they comply with the MOT. Ie- the reason why full electric brakes are not allowed (except trailers under 3.5gw), but the Citroen system is. I just used the fact that the engine must be running on an air braked vehicle to undertake the MOT brake test, same as the Citroen (and some other vehicles that use a similar system) must have the engine running when testing the brakes or it fails the MOT. Full electric brakes are not allowed because there is no mechanical connection between driver and wheels to fail safe, therefore will fail an MOT.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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I've been in a couple early demonstrators of vehicles with the technology, it can work but has a long way to go Can't say I'm entirely sold on the idea of purely electric brakes either but it seems to be the way the industry is heading Don't the Alfa Guilias have electric brakes? As for the brakes, they can't be any worse than LHM brakes. On my 2CV it's all or nothing ; you can modulate them, but it requires precision. The DS is more of the same, being powered brakes. They don't work at all if the engine dies (that's the DS). The alfa's brakes are a copy of what Merc did back in 2000, and the idea was binned as being curse word back then. They are not electric as such, the driver still pushes the hydraulic master cylinder as normal. The electric part is a computer decides how fast and how hard you pushed the brakes, then attempts to speed up the process. No vehicle can have full electric brakes as it would fail an MOT, the DS system is ok because they are still hydraulic and work with the engine pump running to give pressure. HGV air brakes are similar in the that the engine must be running to maintain air pressure. I've not tried a DS without the engine running but I imagine your glad of a mechanical handbrake in that situation.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Do you have a multimeter? Where are you located?
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Whilst I agree with Rich that the square terminals are designed to be on the starter, from what you've described it should work as it is.
First thing to do is remove the starter, and test it on the floor. This can be done with a battery and jump leads. If it is dead order a new one, but don't fit it until you have tested it in the same way.
Which part are you saying burnt, the solenoid or the cable? Was this as soon as it was connected, or after trying to start it? Did it even try to start?
EDIT: If your saying the starter that was on it originally was smoking then you definitely have a wiring fault! Do not fit another starter until you've tested all the main cables. The starter is earthed through the bell housing, I cant think of one fitted to a car that has a separate earth cable.
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Last Edit: Feb 6, 2019 22:08:08 GMT by carat 3.6
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Thanks guys I can't seem to upload pictures does anyone one know how to upload them thanks guys sorry for the headache but just stressed out with this problem thanks again tho guys much appricated as always When typing a reply, there is a box underneath for adding pics.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Why do you need to change the speedo?
If it's because your gearbox doesn't have a cable drive, google "cable x".
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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If you think EPB's are bad, just wait for true brake by wire/EMB electro mechanical braking, no fluid at all We already have that on certain trailers, and most american caravans. Not the brightest of ideas if you ask me.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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So that's what it is! I've always wondered what people were moaning about, now I understand. I found them ok, but most people I know wouldn't. My trick is: -Ride the clutch for barely half a second -Pull away. Admittedly, when parking on a hill, it may be a little more awkward where a true handbrake can assist you. I thought you'd have owned a manual Merc . All of mine are, that's why I could never understand what people were moaning about! I guess I'm just used to them, but alot of older Japanese vans and pickups are the same.
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Last Edit: Feb 5, 2019 23:40:01 GMT by carat 3.6
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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If you think EPBs are bad, try a Mercedes with a manual gearbox and the foot parking brake. I found mine OK, but some people hate them ; Merc foot brakes release completely when you pull the handle. So that's what it is! I've always wondered what people were moaning about, now I understand.
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1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Thanks rich, I'm thinking it could be the unit, will get a reman or bosch one, just shocking how quickly it burned out soon in 5 mins of the car being started, also is the earth for the stated the one that would be attached to the gearbox? Thanks guys I wouldn't fit another until you have made sure the wiring is correct, a starter motor shouldn't just burn out on it's own. Are you sure it didn't stay engaged? The earth cable attached to the gearbox is for everything electrical attached to the engine. Re reading this bit in your first post makes me think something isnt right: "the only place I thought it attached to is on the solenoid along with the positive cable from battery but it seems to be smoking and burning".
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Last Edit: Feb 4, 2019 22:28:16 GMT by carat 3.6
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp 1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon 1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered! 1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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