andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 30, 2016 15:02:44 GMT
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If you have room you could stick a viscous fan on the M52 and not worry about the electric fan? Just a thought No room I'm afraid, but would be nice, engine came with one too. Which reminds me, must get viscous fan on Ebay.....help pay for all the bit's I'm buying now!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 30, 2016 6:34:40 GMT
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I still can't my head around how the stat changed it's operating temp....is this a normal fail mode, I thought they just stopped working!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 29, 2016 17:51:50 GMT
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Unfortunately, the cooling system is still at the testing stage.
I'm assuming that the water is circulating correctly, even though the Golf rad has the top hose inlet on the opposite side to the BMW rad, the Golf has both top and bottom on the same side of the rad.
The new gauge seems to be fairly accurate, esp. at the higher end of it's range.
The water pump is quite new and with metal impellers.
I picked on 88c because that's the recommended stat on the E30 Zone M52 engine swap Wicki, that's where I've stolen most of the knowledge from. The stat in the car was an 88c one, so opening at 98c is bit disappointing!
I'm going to bin the adjustable controller and use a 95c to 90c switch, mounted in the bottom hose, the temp gauge is in the top hose.
If the 98c stat was working properly and controlling the temp, then the cooling system should cope, when the fan was running the temp stabilized at 98c, the stats open point.
The fan wasn't switching off however, but that's a different issue, hopefully cured by the switch change.
If I use the recommended stat, which is a 92c one, how will a 95/90 fan behave, will it be running all the time because the stat is keeping the temp at 92c?
My brain hurts..........
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 29, 2016 15:47:44 GMT
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Quick recap, couldn't understand why the new temp gauge showed 98c, yet most of the rad and bottom hose was cold, even the top hose was still touchable.
Following advice on here (thanks), I pulled the thermostat and checked it.
It works, but opens at, (you've guessed!) 98c!
So this where I say WTF! After buying 2 unreliable not opening at the 88c they should, aftermarket stats, I pay 3 times what a Eurocarpart stat cost at the BMW stealer, to get the genuine thing.
I tested it before fitting, it opened at 88c, only now it doesn't, it opens at 98c! That's after 2 years of sitting in a dry engine, not being used. I always thought that stats worked or didn't?
Still hopefully this demonstrates that the cooling system can cope, it run at 98c and didn't get too hot.....or am I deluding myself?
I've got the standard 2 hose heater, hot feed from the back of the head, cold return to the metal pipe that runs along the engine into the water pump, this pipe also draws coolant from the header tank. Air bleed into header tank from rad top and header tank is at least 6 inches higher than the rad and engine.
So 82c or 88c stat? I want it to be fully open at 88c, past experience has shown the temp listed is the "start to" open, not the fully open temp!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 28, 2016 18:15:35 GMT
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It is kind of agricultural in design so...... glad it's cured.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 25, 2016 17:21:48 GMT
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And the thermostat works ok right? Well that's a good question, no idea is the answer! I suppose taking it out and testing is the next move....perhaps it's just running on the hole I drilled in the stat to aid air lock removal....?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 25, 2016 15:47:14 GMT
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Well, checked the temp gauge and it's 10c out at the bottom of the scale, 5c out closer to boiling temp.
This was in a pan of water on a camping stove, used a cooking thermometer to check against and a infrared gun to check the cooking thermometer (the infrared just looked through the water at the pans base and gave a false reading!)
The Aluminum radiator is too hot to touch at top hose entry point, but the exit hose and most of the rest of the rad is lukewarm, bordering on cold!
It's not spitting, steaming or boiling. It does push water out of the header tank as it warms, but that might just be me overfilling, the header is large and 6 inches higher than the rad, but it feeds into the engine at what is the lowest point.
I filled the cooling system via the temp sender hole and the little pipe on the topside of the rad, the one that lets the air escape, so I'm pretty sure that system isn't air locked.
What worries me is that, according to the gauge, the rad fan isn't taking the temp done at all.
It seems to push a lot of air through the rad, the rad isn't hot, apart from around the top hose, the hoses show a 10 to 15 degree difference top to bottom.
Car isn't mot'ed, so can't road test and don't want to mot it till I know it won't boil up at the station!
The heater hoses (not silicone) feel much cooler and one of those comes straight from the back of the cylinder head.
3 questions, which make of gauge is reliable? Is fitting the gauge in the top hose OK? What temp will the coolant be as it passes through a 88c thermostat?
Till I get a reliable temp reading, can't really fix any problems, (if I do have one!).
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 25, 2016 8:42:43 GMT
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As above.
Very low value and can be left in front garden at Birchington.
PM please.
Thanks
Andy
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 24, 2016 17:56:28 GMT
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Can I make a suggestion, keep the tall tyres, they'll sit higher up in the arch, which will make the car look lower then it is...
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 24, 2016 15:25:16 GMT
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Are the front spring pans (bit spring sits in on the wishbones*) removable? If so, longer bolts and spacers to drop the pan, blocks on the back, Escort ones might fit, they lots of other cars....!
Still fill it with hookers and beer though.
And pictures when it's done please, I think it'll be epic...esp. when it's full...!
*description added because I'm unsure of the correct technical terms!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 24, 2016 15:17:35 GMT
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I ask because the new mechanical temp gauge is saying the water in the top hose is at 99c, yet I can place my hand on it comfortably, or are silicone hoses that good at heat insulation?
Car is a Triumph with a BMW M52 engine fitted, engine has 88c (fully open) thermostat fitted, a MK2 Golf GTI aluminum rad (supposed to be up-rated!).
The fan control is in the bottom hose, which feels barely lukewarm (not much warmer than a babies bath!), when the fan is running. Fans switch point is 90c.
I've got a “point & shoot” thermometer, it say's the top hose is at around 70c and the bottom about 60c, but that's on the outside of the hoses.
If the coolant is actually exiting the engine at 99c and dropping to 88c after the fan, is this what I should see with an 88c thermostat? And is it OK?
Or is the gauge another new part, that's not fit for purpose or is it air locks? And how do I tell?
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Last Edit: Oct 25, 2016 17:32:20 GMT by andyborris
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 24, 2016 7:04:43 GMT
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Can we have a short session at the track day for slower drivers, the girlfiend would love to drive the Triumph or MX5 on the track, but she's nervous of being slow, getting in the way etc.!
I'm sure there's more than one RR'er with a partner......?
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 21, 2016 18:39:35 GMT
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What I'd be interested in, is ideas/tips for maximising the space... I've a couple of bolt together shelf units and what was a display unit from an engineering supplies shop, that's very useful, holds a lot of weight, but has better access then a bolt together shelf, no side uprights!
And how to drill into pre-formed concrete.....without it breaking!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 13, 2016 18:54:20 GMT
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Unfortunately, no.
The funds won't be in place till after Brexit!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 13, 2016 18:49:40 GMT
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I've never imported a car, but the long term plan involves importing a motorhome from Germany, where they seem to be much more reasonably priced, esp. the more attractive and retro ones. But, it now seems that Brexit will beat us, so what's the difference in importing from the EU (as it stands now!) and the rest of the world? How much will it change after Brexit, in your opinion? Have a cool Merc 608 for troubles. It's this type of thing I'm after! I'm going to be a hippy when I retire!
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Last Edit: Sept 13, 2016 18:53:18 GMT by andyborris
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 13, 2016 17:30:10 GMT
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Guess it depends on whether you buy a car to look at/investment or to drive.......?
I always buy to drive.
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 7, 2016 21:01:14 GMT
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Thanks Nick and Steve.
Nick, did you use the plastic all the way from the PI pump?
Andy
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Sept 7, 2016 18:21:39 GMT
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Wonder if anyone has used plastic pipe in the high pressure part of a fuel injection system? I'm struggling to understand how to connect it to the pump and fuel rail, or which type of plastic pipe to use!
The BMW engine in my Triumph had a type of speed fit connector, but I can't find those for sale. The "R9" pipe on the car hasn't lasted well, it's delaminating and will fail an MOT.
Any suggestions welcome, the injection pump is at the rear of the car, so I need high pressure pipe to the injection rail at the front.
Thanks
Andy
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Aug 31, 2016 18:32:27 GMT
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Can't say anything except, I'd be really proud to have built this, the vision involved and the left field thinking is,( as others have said) awesome!
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andyborris
Posted a lot
Freedom is just another word for nothing left to lose.
Posts: 2,170
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Aug 31, 2016 17:30:06 GMT
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Don't bother with the balance part, unless you do all the reciprocating parts.
You can get a flywheel "shaved", I did it with the one in my BMW M52 engine, all the lathe op needs to do is take the metal off evenly (ish!) And the taking from the outer edge effectively lightens it more.
Obviously, don't shave the clutch face side!
This also means that any engineering shop can do this, non auto place may need a bit more guidance though.
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