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In the first pic with the spring in the slot the spring is pulling the loop into the slot in the bracket.
With the tank in though it seems the spring is pulling straight up in a slot that is 90 degrees to the spring loop.
Reality may be different, but looking at the pics it doesn't seem very secure. How easy is it to slide the spring loop off the hooks? The spring needs to be in a situation where removal requires more tension.
I'm sure you know all this though and in real life it's better than it looks in the pics.
Love the look though!
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ive used it for years no problem What make have you used? Alot of people say you need more thinners than the data sheet says, did you find this?
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you can use 2k air dry it works perfect I mentioned in another thread, I've looked into that alot recently and I've rear one or two folk say it works ok and maybe 10 folk say it never hardens properly. I'm tempted to try, but that's not good odds. Probably better odds than the amount of folk I've read who actually managed to do a proper job with coach enamel though!
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Thanks everyone, interesting to read. I have to admit I didn't look for reviews, just jumped straight in. My first panels to paint are only MX5 headlight lids so easy to rectify. After that is the rear panel, front wings and lower sides of the car so if the paint isn't up to scratch I'll have to forfeit the bigger stuff. I have used the non-iso clear lacquer and that seems to harden fine in the height of summer I've heard it's at its worst when used in primers. Good to hear on the lacquer, would be a good solution if it works properly. As I say, let us know how it goes. I assume your not painting them any time soon?
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When are you painting it? I've been reading alot about iso free 2k, seem to hear more dislike for it than like though. I'd use it if I thought it would set properly, but I hear alot of people saying even 4-6 weeks on its still too soft to mask etc. I'll be very interested to hear how you get on as I have a project to paint in a couple of weeks. I tried some non iso paint, took weeks to harden so not recommended Ttfn Glenn This is what I've heard, takes ages, if it ever hardens. Also read you need alot of thinners in it and it can be tricky 're coating. Shame, sounded like the perfect option for me but I've not found a single report of people using it with any success.
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Strangely today I was adding up the total if I was to sell all my vehicles. Surprisingly decent amount of money, unfortunately my dream car is an early porsche 356 and prices for those have gone mental in the last 15 years. My current fleet doesn't hit those numbers! God knows why i didnt buy one when i could afford one!
Goes to show, don't delay or you may miss out.
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When are you painting it? I've been reading alot about iso free 2k, seem to hear more dislike for it than like though.
I'd use it if I thought it would set properly, but I hear alot of people saying even 4-6 weeks on its still too soft to mask etc.
I'll be very interested to hear how you get on as I have a project to paint in a couple of weeks.
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Those bits were just the ones easiest to photograph to illustrate the “hammer a screwdriver into the joint” method of muppetry some folk follow. Sadly there’s extensive damage to the mating faces and a bit of a crack at the bottom of the gearbox, and a significant chunk of casting missing between the sprocket and generator. Nothing that can’t be recovered, but a good few hours work that I’m not sure I want to pay for. Yeah, that sounds a bit harder to rectify.
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I recently build up some broken fin areas with my rubbish little mig. It isn't hard. Those little areas would be pretty easy to weld up and file back as they aren't structural or massively critical.
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i thought you could still get it on ebay, but i just looked and cant find it, but then ive not looked tha hard, HMG do a coach enamel paint.. Saw hmg's, mentioned it above but now see it auto corrected it. I think repaint may no longer be available.
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2020 22:02:02 GMT by VW
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I've read about the repaint stuff.
Seems there are a few options for coach enamel, craftmaster, paintman, HMG and Smith and Allen seem the top recommendations.
The Smith and Allen tekaloid has an awful lot of good reviews.
The main thing I'm nervous about is if it all goes wrong, painting over it will be tricky. Not 100% decided if I'll brush or spray it, I'll probably try both, but if I'm going this way I may as well go the whole hog and brush it!
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Last Edit: Nov 2, 2020 22:02:34 GMT by VW
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That's not bad at all!
What I'm after, if I can manage it, is the look of black oil. That deep high gloss but without the plastic look of 2k.
I could use celly but alot of what I'm painting will be very awkward to flat and polish so am looking for something that will settle and dry to a high gloss without and polishing.
Coach enamel should do everything I need at the expense of it being both very hard and very time consuming.
I've been reading and I've found reference to old school coach painters wearing only shorts and covering themselves in linseed oil! 😂
Also read paint rooms had central heating, which luckily enough sounds exactly like our spare bedroom 🙂
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Thinking of doing my current project in coach enamel. Has anyone used this? Has anyone done a proper, glass flat job with it? Anyone sprayed it?
For every perfect brush painted austin 7 you see, there are another poor looking cars so I guess it's not that easy.
I'm really curious about it, and for this project it feels like the ideal paint, but i also need an almost perfect finish.
I know it can be done, I've seen it. Just never tried it!
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Oct 29, 2020 22:42:31 GMT
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Been reading more and it seems the argon I have isn't really suitable for mig welding stainless. Fine if using tig though.
That throws another spanner in the works.
I do need to get some chrome done on other parts, maybe I'll make it in mild and just suffer the extra chroming costs.
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Oct 29, 2020 20:49:20 GMT
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I only use carbide burrs if access is limited, they're horrible tools. I've had good results dressing welds with a power file, but I've never tried for a mirror finish on stainless welds. Roloc discs as skkylinedave suggests are great too, I use 2" sanding and scotch ones for amongst others panel work. I had a blending wheel like the roof discs, was a free sample from norton iirc. Not sure what grade it was but was lovely for knocking back and, errrr, blending. slater has now got me looking at cheap tig welders now too! 😂
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Oct 29, 2020 19:46:16 GMT
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The best way to dress welds in my experience is with a die grinder and a double cut carbide burr I have both so they will be used. I tend to prefer hand tools when I get close though. I used to make jewellery so working from file cuts to polished isn't new to me, stainless is a different deal to gold or silver though!
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Oct 29, 2020 17:34:36 GMT
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It will be significantly harder but its not impossible. Just take a fair bit longer . All i was mentioning with polishing is that you will have to spend ages getting the file marks out. If your really serious buy a 90 degree air die grinder and get some roloc discs in red and blue before you even think of starting to polish it with anything . Is it worth buying one and modifying the tube pieces that it mounts on ? Then all you have to do is modify them which will be easier to weld and polish up rather than trying to polish thin bar which will most likely snatch at what ever your using to polish it with ? The triumph ones are a different proportion so couldn't be made to fit. They are also all chromed steel so back to the chroming issue, in which case I may as well make one in mild. I was going to make the mounting bolts and tubes first, but think ill probably buy some rod and mig wire and try a joint before I get too involved.
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Last Edit: Oct 29, 2020 17:36:34 GMT by VW
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Oct 29, 2020 16:17:59 GMT
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I find stainless incredibly easy to weld, the key is cleanliness! An acetone wipe works wonders. The actual welding I'm not expecting much trouble from, I was more wondering about the discolouration (already answered) and how much harder the weld bead will be to file than a mild steel bead would be.
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Oct 29, 2020 15:32:09 GMT
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If there's one thing I've learned from being on here, it's not to judge others' abilities too quickly. On numerous occasions I've thought "that'll fail", and someone somehow made it work just fine. I'm also buoyed up by recent aluminium welding success. If you look at the pics of the triumph racks you can buy, the quality of the joints is appalling. I don't see how anyone who has ever picked up a welder couldn't do better than this! I am however painfully aware that Slater can weld, and well. If he thinks this is going to be hard to achieve its a warning I take notice of. Won't stop me trying though. On that note, a question to slater , is knowing I could do this with the mig in mild (or aluminium even) enough of a reason to assume I can also do it in stainless?
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Last Edit: Oct 29, 2020 15:52:47 GMT by VW
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Oct 29, 2020 12:00:59 GMT
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How many years of filing and polishing are you expecting this to take? Be like painting a house with a toothbrush 😄 Best way would be to buy a cheap inverter tig, weld it up, pickle and scotchbrite it up to a brushed finish or buff it up to a shine. I cant see you being able to mig it, dress all the welds back and then get any kind of even looking joints that would polish up and not look completely horrid. Well, if it was mild steel it wouldn't be a problem. Easily weld it up and file/sand/polish the joints. Never welded stainless though. I know stainless is harder to work so I'm not expecting it to be quite as easy to finish the welds up but also don't see why it's not achievable. This is why I started this thread though, as I've not done this kind of thing in stainless before. I could do it in mild, could braze it rather than weld, but then I've got to get it chromed. I'm sort of expecting maybe 2 hours to make it and maybe a day to get it tidied up and polished.
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Last Edit: Oct 29, 2020 12:01:42 GMT by VW
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