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Nov 14, 2020 20:33:21 GMT
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If you can get it clean enough id have thought so, what’s the worst that can happen? Soft solder didn't want to stick to the pad at first, but second time it did. Back in one piece and it works! If it doesn't last I'll look into other ways to repair the points.
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Nov 14, 2020 15:30:12 GMT
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Beginning to understand the scale of your problem..... My concern with anything that isn’t catalyst setting would be shrinkage. It’s really upsetting when all you carefully covered Mark magically reappear after a few weeks/ months. Nick Yes, trying to avoid that. I'll carry on priming and sanding, filling the worst ones as I go. It will get there eventually. I think I'm looking for a solution that doesn't really exist.
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Nov 14, 2020 15:28:27 GMT
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Think I’d try the ‘solder it back on’ first, after all it doesn’t work anyway, what have you got to lose? Otherwise it’s fabrication time! Think normal soft solder will hold it?
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Nov 14, 2020 15:16:17 GMT
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Nov 14, 2020 15:15:40 GMT
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I am repairing a horn which has points. One side has lost its face. I have the face so there are a few options.
I guess I either try and fix the pad back on, maybe solder or silver solder? Worried about the spring steel with silver solder though.
Or I remove the post which seems riveted on, solder the pad back on and refit. May end up having to make a new copper post.
Or, I try and fit a post and pad from some old ignition points.
New points for this horn are obviously unavailable. Replacement horns are very hard to find and I don't really want to fit a different horn.
Any thoughts?
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Nov 14, 2020 10:28:13 GMT
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Took a bit of searching, but managed to find a horn. Cast iron!! Needs 're finishing and doesn't work, but I'm sure it will live again.
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Nov 14, 2020 10:11:21 GMT
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Nice. One of my old apprentice instructors had a Venom, back in the late 80s. I remember him passing me quite convincingly on the Thamesmead spine road when I was already pressing on pretty swiftly myself. Having owned a BSA M33 for a number of years, my only advice would be to not go too mad with the state of tune. You can easily get a 500 single to perform, but it can come at the expense of ridability, refinement and your enjoyment of the machine. Mildly tweaked they’re lovely though; I look forward to seeing how you get on with it. 👍 Agreed. I really don't want to be going for velocette thruxton levels of performance, along with the hard starting, lack of idle, no bottom end and necessary abuse of an already oddball clutch! I think all I'll do to this is use a venom piston to up compression, and as it turns out not to need a rebore yet, I'll only do that if either the right size piston comes up used, or if it needs over boring again in future. For now I'll just concentrate on getting it painted, back together, and up and running. I'm getting to the buying parts stages and it's freaking me out how much parts for this cost!! I knew this when I bought it obviously, but does t make it any easier 😂
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Nov 14, 2020 10:04:05 GMT
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May work. I'll look into it. I edited my above post too.
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I've seen this used loads, and have had a small play with it myself, but it's not going to be ideal in my situation. I can't spread a whole area. For me to use this I'd have to mix up tiny amounts and use it to fill the individual pits. The pieces I'm working on are too small and awkward to be giving a layer of filler. Dolphin glaze seems to be used more as a final levelling coat for areas of bodywork. Even used like that though it would probably be better than stopper, or trying to use regular body filler on small imperfections. Mixing tiny amounts isn't really practical though. I'm wondering about maybe using some more epoxy primer, or spray filler, and using a small brush to put drops in the pits.
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Last Edit: Nov 14, 2020 10:03:18 GMT by VW
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Nov 13, 2020 19:16:21 GMT
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Currently prepping for paint. There are lots of rust pits on the metal (all rust has been removed). I have so far epoxy primed, flatted, filled the worst areas and given it a coat of high build (it's not very high build though!)
I'm going to flat this down again and 're prime but I can tell I'd have to repeat this many times before I'd loose all the pitting.
Its an old motorcycle so the parts are small and intricate so it's not as easy as just filling everything. I also don't really want to build up a high thickness of paint so I'm sanding back as much as possible before 're coating. Not really a suitable situation for a good heavy coat of polyester or similar.
I suddenly thought this may ve a good case for using some stopper, but I've not used it before. Does it still need priming over? I'm sure I've read you can top coat over stopper.
I did once have a tube of Halfords stopper I had used for something unrelated, it didn't seem very nice and never seemed to set very well.
Has anyone got any advice on stopper, or any other thoughts on dealing with the rust pitting? If it was a car, this wouldn't be a problem. But I have about 50 small intricate parts to prep, all with varying degrees of heavy pitting. Thanks.
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Nov 11, 2020 18:38:26 GMT
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The spokes are further out at the center arent they, sort of the reverse of what you would expect.
I'm sure I've seen them and thought they were a good looking wheel face on, but look like they need 3" more offset.
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Nov 11, 2020 18:20:36 GMT
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I recognise them but cant think. Something is nagging me saying datsun/nissan, but ive no basis for that.
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Wrong pic, can't edit, this is a hf180a
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Last Edit: Nov 8, 2020 16:31:27 GMT by VW
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Has anyone got an 6v clear hooters horn? A hf180a specifically. They didn't always have clear hooters on them, if you have an old 6v horn but aren't sure what it is, I may be able to identify it. They will have 6 screws around the outside. Open to ones that don't work as I'll rebuild it anyway. Thanks. I have a 6V compressor and relay, you are welcome to it if it’s of interest, I bought it on eBay and the seller didn’t list it was 6V and it’s no use to me. Thanks for the offer, but this is going to end up on a motorcycle (although they were used on cars too). As it goes in a specific place and is very visible it really needs to be this type of horn.
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Has anyone got an 6v clear hooters horn? A hf180a specifically.
They didn't always have clear hooters on them, if you have an old 6v horn but aren't sure what it is, I may be able to identify it. They will have 6 screws around the outside.
Open to ones that don't work as I'll rebuild it anyway.
Thanks.
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Everything has been epoxy primed, flatted, and given a coat of high build. Alot of flatting and spot priming now to deal with the rust pitting.
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I have zero pictures because it was 20 years ago, but me and my grandad did my first bsa bantam in gloss black coach enamel. Did it by brush in a 16’x8’ breeze block workshop with a curse word roof, no flooring and a massive window. Just shoved a calor gas fire in there in the middle and hung everything around it. Cranked it up beforehand to get things warm, including stick the tin of paint on top of it 😂 The finish was amazing, a light polish by hand and it was super shiny, got loads of comments about how expensive the paintjob must have been! The only post application work we needed to do was to get rid of dust nibs due to the amazing conditions we applied it in. If you keep it warm it self levels really well and hides blemishes well. It take a little more patience than other paints and spraying as application, but we don’t have any of the gear at the time so we made it work. Great story I've read in a few places warming the paint helps it flow.
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You should be able to get a superb finish on a motorcycle using pro aerosols the finish is much better than the run of the mill ones. I have a compressor and spray gun. I could do it in celly, I'm confident with celly, but alot of parts will be awkward to polish. I could spray non iso 2k, but hear alot of bad reviews. I could use normal 2k but I don't want to die (close neighbours won't like it either, they had the hump when I painted my kitchen in celly!) I could spray the enamel, my main concern with enamel is trying time, Both with dust and how long I can keep the workshop warm. I don't mind the paint taking months to set properly hard, I'm in no rush to reassemble. I've found a supplier of non iso 2k aerosols that seem good, might try that as the cost is no more than buying the paint, hardener and thinners really and at least I know it's mixed right. Heard so many stories of it not setting though. No paint system seems like a clear winner. Coach enamel has the advantage that I've always been curious about it and hopefully will give the look a 1950s motorcycle should have rather than a glass like lacquered 2k finish. It's basically down to coach enamel or non iso 2k at the moment.
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This is a pretty decent example
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Are you talking about rolling and tipping or something else? Won't be rolling, it's a motorcycle so no areas flat enough to consider rolling. I'll either brush or spray depending in what works best and what items I'm painting. Bigger ones brushed, smaller ones sprayed. Depressingly, as nice as that is, the finish isn't quite as nice as I'd want to achieve. Reaffirms how hard this will probably be
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Last Edit: Nov 5, 2020 21:58:54 GMT by VW
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