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Dec 22, 2010 10:55:19 GMT
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Yes, the tailstock on that machine is morse taper 2, sounds like your pillar drill is the same. bigger the number larger they are
you can start with a small size and get step up sleeves too so even if at a later date you need stuff with the bigger taper you just get a 2-3 sleeve for example.
when you fit a new arbour to a chuck heat the chuck in an oven for a while and freeze the arbour to get a good shrink fit, a swift tap home with a hammer and lump of wood will make sure it stays on, can also put a drop of stud-lock on too if you fancy but not really needed, however ensure they're free from oil with brake cleaner first.
Also if you remove the main chuck on the lathe you'll find the spindle is Morse taper too, either MT4 or MT3 can't remember which, not sure how often you'll find that of any use though, i only once used that facility when making tooling for my mill.
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Dec 22, 2010 10:25:52 GMT
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Glad the drill chuck will be of use, it's one of the proops ones but a good starting point. Regarding the other chuck you have with a larger taper, the taper may be hardened so you may find re-cutting it costs you more in destroyed cutting tools than getting hold of a new arbour for it, i'm not totally familiar with all the different variations out there but there should be a JT or a B number etched/stamped on it, you should be able to heat the chuck up and get it out, then replace with the required one. see here for examples: www.rdgtools.co.uk/acatalog/MT2_DRILL_CHUCK_ARBOURS.htmlthese are often on ebay too
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Last Edit: Dec 22, 2010 10:28:12 GMT by Good Scrap
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Glad it made it ok, you lot are brave or you had three weetabix for breakfast? - i've only ever moved it with a forklift or similar.
You may need to drill a hole in the wall so if you have a long piece of stock all the way through the headstock it can poke through :-)
you mentioned about wiring, the three red wires are the live phases, the green (or is it yellow) the earth. if it spins backwards then swap any two of the live phases (red wires), this needs to be done by a competent person of course.....
Happy turning
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Dec 19, 2010 20:15:11 GMT
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put that nice shelving across the way (you may need to shorten it), then stand the tumble drier above the mini bonnet line and you can poke the nose in further :-)
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Dec 18, 2010 17:45:19 GMT
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It's that time of year to squirrel away a few things that you can only get this time of year, does anyone else have a seasonal shopping list, I'll start you off with the one item i use a fair bit. Large turkey Trays - the proper thick tin ones, can be had for about £1, (less after next saturday for some reason ![:))](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/cheesy.png) they're great for putting parts in when stripping something, good for cleaning things in, a useful size drip tray etc.
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Dec 18, 2010 17:36:53 GMT
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I've just collected a bridgeport milling machine, actually bought it 2 years ago but only got round to fetching it recently ![::)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/eyesroll.png) . It came without any tooling and i'm wondering which is the best route to go down, obviously i'll be looking at drill chucks, Morse taper adaptors etc. however i'm unsure on weather to get collets to directly mount cutters or go for a collet chuck? My previous mill was only capable of taking a collet chuck and it seemed to add more leverage to the cutter and as it wasn't a particularly ridgid machine would sometimes make the head shift on the column. Thanks in advance Brian
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Dec 17, 2010 20:10:01 GMT
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i've read somewhere that manufacturers put the engines off level (lower at the rear) by around 5 degrees, so that in a frontal impact the engine submarines under the floor and saves your legs, might be worth considering, would help you with the prop height too by the sounds of it
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Dec 16, 2010 23:09:06 GMT
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wow - takes me back, weren't these quite rare in the uk? i bought one of these about 12 years ago with the intention of using the running gear in a hillman imp. Gearbox was stuck in gear so got it cheap and managed to fix it and had much fun rallying it down a farm track until turbo let go, was quite quick on the loose stuff. went for scrap in the end......
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Dec 16, 2010 15:59:33 GMT
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Provisionally on it's way to Area 52, if it falls through (which i don't think it will) then i'll let those who expressed an interest know.
I priced it with what i am happy to pass it on for, call it crazy cheap - but fair for it's condition, it's taking up floor space and all i wanted was a bit more than scrap value. oh, and i need to make way for a Bridgeport mill :-)
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Dec 15, 2010 23:08:10 GMT
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Early Harrison L5 Gap Bed lathe, will swing approx 16" in gap and I think 9" over saddle (will check if needed) it's around 2' between centres, comes with 3 and 4 jaw chucks. currently fitted with 3ph motor but could easily be changed to a single phase. ![](http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x295/cov_climax/IMG_1141A.jpg) It's not in it's first flush of youth but i've used it for a few years making bushes, spacers etc and even some reasonably precision bits with care. More history on these can be found at www.lathes.co.uk/harrison/page2.htmlI'm Near Hinckley Leic's and can load onto your transport, guess it's about 350Kg. Price £85, viewing welcomed and can be seen under power. Cheers Brian
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Last Edit: Dec 16, 2010 15:59:55 GMT by Good Scrap
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I agree with a lot of the above, i think a decent imp would be disc brakes, sorted suspension and otherwise keep it fairly standard on the interior front, a 930cc sport engine and you'll have a lot of fun. I say this because sometimes i find my car is too much for the road, striped interior and loopy engine can make a journey over 10 miles a chore and certainly wouldn't entertain everyday use. keep it simple :-) Here's some more nice pics for you ![](http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x295/cov_climax/P1010121-1.jpg)
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here's a link to my imp on the imp club site, running EFi etc, hope it's not locked to non-members these days? I know fleckney - have a friend there, (unfortunately a sad story) but i live over 25miles away. forum.theimpclub.co.uk/viewtopic.php?t=6852enjoy.....
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Sept 11, 2010 22:25:44 GMT
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Seth, have enjoyed you engine swap series, nice to see a modern upgrade.
I feel RC could do with a few more technical features, be nice to see a balance between it and PPC (where often things seem to be quick fixes without caring about the aesthetics).
Oh and mine is the Blue Imp in this months RC, never got round to a readers thread on here but probably don't need one now it's in print,
sorry Alloyolympic, can't get the seat any lower, theres only about 5 thou between it and the floor :-) does make me look like a 12yr old when driving....
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Sept 11, 2010 21:27:27 GMT
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old rule of thumb is to get inlet and exhaust valve opening the same at TDC on the overlap between exhaust closing and inlet opening (i.e.non firing stroke) in reality you may have to advance on this slightly (inlet valve opening earlier) as the charges take time to gather momentum and you want the charge moving before the piston changes direction. You need accurate TDC marked on the crank pully, turn the engine over measuring valve lift on the inlet valve stop at TDC record the figure, move the dti to the exhaust valve and measure the lift as it closes, adjust until they are the same or inlet leading (more open) slightly.
if you have the timing figures for the cam you can also work out what crank angle you should be at when getting full lift on the cam. If you don't have the figures then start at equal opening as above
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Last Edit: Sept 11, 2010 21:29:18 GMT by Good Scrap
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Sept 10, 2010 7:59:24 GMT
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i wouldn't have thought that would be strong enough, probably have to go bigger then have a sleeve or top-hat reducer to get back to your 10mm, you need to look at raidal load capacity for the bearing and then estimate the corner weight of the vehicle and factor in about 5G (or more) for hitting bumps potholes etc. that said if it did fail the whole lot isn't going to fall out so you'd maintain control.
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Sept 3, 2010 21:03:11 GMT
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honda S2000 engine and box would be ideal :-)
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Sept 3, 2010 21:01:22 GMT
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you could use rawl-nuts, these are a brass nut bonded into a rubber top-hat section, you fit them from the outside and when you tighten the bolt they expand behind the panel, if you loosen them at a later date they relax and can be removed from the outside, they will also provide a rubber seat for the arch to sit on as mentioned above.
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Aug 26, 2010 21:04:16 GMT
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Street's family dragster Mk 3 escort
Dez's hot-rod / budget rod
Blown_imps er imp
basically the threads where the authors take the time to share their train of thoughts, methods of working things out and skills, can lean so much from them.
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Aug 23, 2010 19:32:14 GMT
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got any pics? might be worth trying to get as straight as possible then have the impostant faces skimmed on a lathe, i'm not familular with triumph bits, but if it's cast iron go carefully might introduce the start of a crack, be worth spraying with the dye-penetrant kits to check afterwards.
With the above in mind if there's lots of meat on them just get it true'd up in a lathe.
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for ease of getting the run-out in check then make the centre a few mm too thick. put the holes in it and weld it, then skim the rear face at least on a mill or big lathe. Welds distort things and also could be a devil of a job to get set-up. I like the idea of a shoulder on the new centre and matching shoulder in the wheel, make it big enough and fit the centre from the outside and it means you're not relying purely on the welds.
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