mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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Dec 28, 2010 19:31:58 GMT
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would be a shame to change it much, or ruin it only 6 ever produced - one of the rare Ginettas! But nice one getting a Ginetta I like all G's cant wait to get mine Tis a shame, if it was worth anything as a nicely presented good nick car then I would change my mind, but fact of the matter is Ginetta saloons rarely fetch more than a grand regardless of condition. Hopefully by the time mine is up to spec itll be worth a bit more than that Also should be a nice bit of advertising for old Ginettas if I end up being any good at this drifting malarky Ive only done a few practice days but that was in an open diff, NA mr2 Mk2 which is supposedly impossible but I did alright. This 28 is much easier to control when pulling angle and hopefully once the v6 is running nicely it will generate a decent amount of smoke as well. I'm going to be competing in the ODC this year, hopefully will get into the finals at Mallory but ill keep the thread updated with progress. Progress, well had a rubbish day today and would have been better off staying in bed lol. Firstly the weather is miserable, who likes laying under cars in freezing fog? So I thought id hit the easy jobs first and reattach the wiper arms and blades. I had already managed to cable tie one blade onto the drivers side arm and that worked okay, so I unbent the passenger arm, cable tied a wiper blade to that and found a nut to attach it with. Success! Went to try them out and nothing happened?? So I now how two wipers but neither of them work. The motor doesnt click or make a noise or anything. So I pulled all the carpets out of the inside to look at the back of the bulkhead where the wiper arms are and they all seem fine with the arms all connected where they should be. Frustrated I went to start up my MR2 but found it wouldnt start!? Got a friend to give me a bump and managed to get it to idle for 30 secs then cut out. Got it going for another 10secs and cut out again, then it was just completely game over. It would run in first with the clutch out while being towed but as soon as you stopped / clutch in then it cut out. Anybody have a cortina mk4 / 5 wiring diagram handy? Looks like I'm going to be stripping out the interior to sort the electrics out as there are bits and pieces of wire all over the place and its all a bit cock and everything is damp. So a lovely productive day Why cant i have normal hobby like I don't know drawing or something lol.
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Dec 29, 2010 15:07:32 GMT
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Sounds like you have trouble with the wipers and the full beam. Without knowing anything about the particular setup of a Cortina I would guess you're looking for a common fault or possibly the same problem is causing to separate problems.
If there is a relay box or a fuse box have a look in there and see if the earth wires have corroded or some of the terminals or something.
There are two other possibilities for the headlamps. One is that due to the H4 headlamp bulb design it is possible for a single headlamp enclosure to have a working dipped beam without a working full beam. The cause being that the full beam part of the lightbulb has blown but the dipped beam part still works. The H4 bulbs are dual filiment. If you take the bulb out and look at it you will see if one of the filiments looks furry. A furry looking or totally snapped filiment is a sign of a broken bulb.... and they regularly fail at the same time. The other possibility is that the relay for the headlamps has broken and is not making a connection when you switch to full beam mode. Another way to test if it is the bulbs or the electrics is to probe the terminals with the voltmeter to see if you get 12v on the various settings from the various pins.
With the wipers, do they work if you take them off the screen so there is less drag on the arms? Will they then spin in the air? If so, then your motor is fecked and you need a good replacement or a new one. Once it has got to the stage where the motor has got too weak to even slowly wipe a dry screen then it is beyond hope. Check the fuse hasn't blown where the wiper motor is drawing heavy current. If they were moving back and forth but only slowly then I would recommend taking apart the mechanisim and using WD40 to clean up all the moving parts before putting on some new clean lubricant. If they won't even move slowly then the motor is shot.
Guessing the MR2 has a dodgy head gasket slowly leaking coolant into the cylinders while it is parked up for a while. If not that then a fuel problem. Either way, let it warm up by doing whatever you need to do to make it idle for 10-15 minutes and that would get you going. If not, then more investigation needed / specialist / visual / hands on inspection.
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Dec 29, 2010 18:12:01 GMT
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Only 6 ever produced!!!!!!!!!!!
I beg you, please do not alter the bodywork in that case of it you do, replace the full panels rather than butcher those that are already on it. It gives me a depressed, heavy thought of something so rare being permanently altered.
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There is no such thing as a curse word car just overstretched expectations................. Herald 10/10 Gasser 10/10 Total score 20/10
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Dec 29, 2010 19:26:33 GMT
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Sounds like a depressing day. Watch those earthing points on kitcars, you can't just self-tapper into bodywork like those tin-cars. It's a bit of a shame to bodge it around if they're really so rare, but if the classic-types aren't interested, hey it's your motor, do your thang. On Cortina suspension, it's likely to roll like a ferry in the corners, so for drifting I'd guess it would need stiffening-up. At least it'll be a bit better than a Cortina, 'cos the weight is lower down. Darryl
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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Dec 29, 2010 21:16:52 GMT
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I guessed the lights and wipers would be related, either fuses or relay.....wrong! By working the dipped beam switch for a while it cleaned up the internal contacts enough to work again, so lights are fixed :-)
After a proper look at the wipers in daylight, the mechanism is all fine, if I disconnect the motor I can easily turn the wipers by hand but once connected they do not move at all by hand or switch. I need to get a multimeter to check the motor has power as I can't find any relays or fuses that are broken but motor is unresponsive.
Don't worry I'm not going to butcher it just for giggles :-)
Suspension wise there is a lot of side to side movement on the rear which I think is the void bushes so I've bought some poly replacements. It's cortina mk 4/5 suspension with some ginetta specified mods :-) should be good fun for drifting, had a bit of play with it and even on open diff and bath handling its very controllable on the angle :-)
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if the fusebox is in the drivers sid+e corner of eng bay near corner of screen (7 fuses) try rolling the fuses to clean terminals. also check the earth is connected under the stalk mounting screw/bolt. also if manual check the reverse light plug hasn't fallen of the switch & landed on exhaust as it melts & shorts out (its on same circuit as wipers)
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theres more to life than mpg & to much power is just enough.
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
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1987 Ginetta G28stealthstylz
@stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member 174
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It's probably rare because its ugly and nobody wanted it. Get chopping!
Matt
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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*gasp* cable ties meet classic British heritage. Tbh I think with a large amount of success which is unusual for me :-) fairly straight forward. Previously there was a big dent in the front, essentially there was a piece of steel angle supporting the bumper, this was bent and the fiberglass was still bolted to it. The bolts couldn't be undone so they were hacksawed off. Bar was smacked with a hammer to flatten it. Fiberglass was a bit damaged so I couldn't revolt the bar, so out came a small drill and a bundle of cable ties. Result I think is a pretty good effort, but now shows off the bent radiator and a more substantial piece of steel that needs cutting out to flatten. Before Extent of bentness After Remaining bentness Woo getting there
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Last Edit: Jan 7, 2011 19:54:28 GMT by mrluke
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Wow. With that amount of bentage, I'm not sure how the rad is holding water. As for the bumper, repairing the GRP on such a narrow section would be tricky. How about bluffing something and blacking it up? How about this for a little inspiration?
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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As for the bumper, repairing the GRP on such a narrow section would be tricky. I don't know, looks like 3 main breaks there, and with it help securly to a peice of metal I see no reason why it cant be heavily ground out on the cracks, and 3 or so plies of glass fibre popped in.
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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As for the bumper, repairing the GRP on such a narrow section would be tricky. I don't know, looks like 3 main breaks there, and with it help securly to a peice of metal I see no reason why it cant be heavily ground out on the cracks, and 3 or so plies of glass fibre popped in. The fiberglass repair shouldn't be a difficult one as the underside of the bumper is flat all the way to the front of the wheels, it just requires the bumper being taken off and worked on in the warm somewhere. but as I am moving house atm and its my daily... this is going to have to wait. The fact that the car is so easy to work on is the main reason I bought it. Just needs a bit more modernizing :-)
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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Gave it a proper tune today as it was setup really really lean for some reason. Also stripped out the rubbish ceiling lining that kept dumping dirt in my eyes, the interior lights that only work sometimes and a load of defunct wiring and general curse word.
Found that the Wiper motor is borked and needs a replacement. So applied a tub of rainx to the front screen (lol temp fix) good stuff actually.
Oh and fitted some osram nightbreakers which were also better than expected.
Getting there now and is a little bit quicker but still down on power. Now roughly as quick as a e36 328
Proper update tmw, maybe with some interior pictures.
Also after looking at draw through turbo setups I'm toying with the idea of a supercharger at a later date. But suspension is the first priority got to wait till pay day though :-(
Sent from my Desire HD
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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Another small update for today. The interior was completely minging so ive started stripping it all out Not many photos at all but one to show the state of the carpet before: After Yes that white stuff was mould because the carpet has been damp for so long. There is holes cut into the floor but the 50mm sound insulation stopped it draining and was like a big sponge covering the whole car that I could actually wring out. Also the dodgy wiring runs through the soggy carpet and I figure thats not the greatest way of doing things and I found that somebody had used a piece of cutting wire as an earth.... Sound deadening removal is the easiest job ever in a fibreglass car, you just lift it out none of this scraping bs Result is a much cleaner interior, removed a solid bin bag of curse word that weighed a ton. I have a feeling that I wasnt getting full throttle before as its definitely got quicker after taking all the rubbish out Ooo in other news ive got a cheque in the post from the tax man so thatll be nice. Currently on a go slow as I'm paying for all the bills in the house instead of 50:50 with my now ex partner rubbish...
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jin
Part of things
http://quantumforum.proboards.com
Posts: 69
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Jan 23, 2011 10:48:14 GMT
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great to see another old kit car being resurrected, though i must admit ive not seen a ginetta with pug 205 lights before
i too know the horror that lurks within the footwells of leaky kit cars my floor sound deadening is a bio hazard ;D
keep up the good work mate
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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Apr 11, 2011 21:18:27 GMT
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Thought I would give this an update after finally dragging it to its first skid day at Norfolk over the weekend. Bit disappointed really, ive only had a bit of play in the wet and it seemed fine but once on the track in the dry it showed that I have a lot of work to do on it to bring it up to spec. When I got there (late due to cutting out on the way :euge:) I just went straight out to give me a baseline to work from. First run out as I put the power down coming off of a corner the whole backend of the car was bouncing up and down, rapidly got flagged down by Malx who told me the rear was tramping so bad it looked like it was going to fall off :wack: The bouncing backend was more than the cherry bomb could handle which fell off in the pits :smash: A quick visit to mint tyres and I was sitting in the queue again this time with much skinnier tyres at 50psi. Much more successful out this time but still some tramping once the revs picked up. Car was running pretty badly all weekend and really struggled under load. Upped the tyres to 55psi and went out for my 3rd run. Car was getting rapidly worse by this point but the backend was at least starting to move around. Found the rear left tyre wasnt holding air though so the tramping returned everytime I turned right :euge: Figured it was as good as it was going to get so parked up waiting for the scored runs. Went out for my first odc run which to be fair was probably my cleanest run all day and netted me 30/100 points as I didnt spin on the 4 laps but was hideously slow. Car cut out as I finished and was reluctant to start, got it back to the car park and left it there for the rest of the day. See clip below for much awfulness no excuses lol but at least it wont be any worse next time and gives me something to compare to. don't watch if you are easily depressed :wack: YouTube - Norfolk 09 04 2011.flvHowever stay tuned for a proper update hopefully within a month.....
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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Jun 15, 2011 20:00:39 GMT
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Bit of an update as it has been bloody ages. Analysis of the V6 says it didnt have any piston rings left. Anyway to cut a long story short I dropped the car off with a garage to complete the engine change for me, unfortunately it is taking a lot longer to complete than expected. However have some update pictures of state of play so far. As you can see at the moment it sits too high. Where it is at the moment lines the mounts up almost perfectly and puts the gear stick through the existing hole. However really I think it needs to come forward an inch or 2 which will clear the sub frame better and lower the engine down but will mean some choppy choppy to fit the gearstick. Hopefully one day it will be driving again :nod:
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mrluke
Part of things
Posts: 242
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Jul 24, 2011 23:45:11 GMT
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To cut a long story short I dropped the car and engine off with a well respected garage back in April/May time as they gave me a very reasonable quote for fitting. For whatever reason over 2 months later very little progress had happened and it was agreed the car would be returned to me to fit myself. The list of reasons I had for the engine not fitting were as follows. -Inlet manifold fouls the brake master cylinder smaller cylinder required. -Engine sits too high due to lack of sump clearance on front subframe -Bonnet needs cutting due to height of engine -Gearbox fouls high level chassis member -Gearbox does not line up with prop -If the above gearbox problems are overcome then the shifter wont fit -Chassis wont take the power This was my progress in 1 day on a gravel drive with my newly purchased engine hoist It fits ! Bit messy but its in, loads of space for new rad and intercooler. Plenty of clearance here, note the shiny new non fitting bolts as the old ones were left in the engine bay when the car was transported... Brake pipes are wibblepoo but fit as are and will be lots of room when re-routed Even the shifter is spot on. (doesn't line up 100% as no engine / gbox mounts made yet) Even the bonnet fits, couldnt have done it without my faithful assistant tho :wack::thumbs: Not pictured but theres even a chance that the Nissan KA prop shaft is going to bolt straight up to my ford diff and be the right length. Held it up under the car and the pcd on the diff flange appears to match up but it might be 10mm to short. We will see. The only issue I have found so far is that the external waste gate wont fit as is, I might be able to squeeze it on by clocking the housing around a bit but we'll see. Other than that its all good. Next jobs are to lift it back out again so I can grind off the old engine mounts which are welded to the chassis, make up some new mounts (which will lift the engine about 5-10mm as currently resting on the subframe and then its just wiring and plumbing. I might actually have this thing back on the road by Christmas. Turbo is a T3/T04E .60 A/R so should make about 240bhp at 8 psi and just shy of 300 at 11-13 psi Also I have found somebody with the same chassis as me running a tuned YB engine on the Hillclimbs so I should be okay chassis wise Thanks to everybody who read that massive essay :smash:
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Mamba
Part of things
Posts: 148
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That's some work. I've never seen one of these either, I didn't even know there were any tbh! The look of the back and the profile is good but again, what were they thinking/drinking when they came up with that front. Still, she'll do as a unique driftcar which is what you want. Fibreglass is easy enough repaired when you ding it.
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[url=http://retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=105579 ]1975 Scimitar SE5a "Kato"[/url] 1978 Scimitar SE6a "Mamba" 1969 Land Rover Airportable "Summer"
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Ginge
Part of things
Posts: 65
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What a quirky looking car!
I have been educated once more in random models i never knew existed, thanks!
Good luck with the future plans.
Ginge
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DutyFreeSaviour
Europe
Back For More heartbreak and disappointment.....
Posts: 2,944
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Jul 26, 2011 10:41:23 GMT
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Great news that you didn't just take their word for it and got it done yourself.... with that motor in yo'll be staring out the side windows in no time as you lap the local tracks.
Another who like the rear end of the car - but front was an afterthought or designer was hungover!
Best of luck with the rest of the swap - at least now you know it's being done 'right'.
John
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Back from the dead..... kind of
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