woodenspatulas
Part of things
Retro in ways you can't imagine
Posts: 448
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Oct 31, 2011 12:46:20 GMT
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nice use of a v6.
Are you sure its a engine from a GSI? that sticker means nothing as I'm sure you know.
The non gsi and gsi engines are exactly the same bar the cams. But they can be bettered by using cams from the 3ltr engine to replace either the inlet or exhaust (cant remember which right now).
I see youve heard of the reason in its normal application why it wasnt turbo'd due to heat build up along the rear bank. Thats also why the saab engine was a low blow front mount turbo too. But in all honesty it wasnt worth the bother, it was only as saab only "did" turbos and GM threw this engine at them to use.
I've seen a few gm v6 supercharged engines, but to run proper boost they need uprated internals. When i was looking for my power in my Vectra I first looked at 3ltr v6, then the saab v6 turbo but finally went for the 4 pot for ease of tuning.
What are you going to do in regards strengthening the internals? As has been said the c20let engine pistons and maybe rods could be used, but the crank might not take much. The later 3.2 engines are stronger but I remember seeing a way of freezing standard components to give them strength? might be worth a look?
great project btw!
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1999 Vectra Estate + 1995 Saab Engine = Good Times
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Oct 31, 2011 19:24:30 GMT
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nice use of a v6. Are you sure its a engine from a GSI? that sticker means nothing as I'm sure you know. The non gsi and gsi engines are exactly the same bar the cams. But they can be bettered by using cams from the 3ltr engine to replace either the inlet or exhaust (cant remember which right now). I see youve heard of the reason in its normal application why it wasnt turbo'd due to heat build up along the rear bank. Thats also why the saab engine was a low blow front mount turbo too. But in all honesty it wasnt worth the bother, it was only as saab only "did" turbos and GM threw this engine at them to use. I've seen a few gm v6 supercharged engines, but to run proper boost they need uprated internals. When I was looking for my power in my Vectra I first looked at 3ltr v6, then the saab v6 turbo but finally went for the 4 pot for ease of tuning. What are you going to do in regards strengthening the internals? As has been said the c20let engine pistons and maybe rods could be used, but the crank might not take much. The later 3.2 engines are stronger but I remember seeing a way of freezing standard components to give them strength? might be worth a look? great project btw! Damn i thought the sticker was going to get me extra ponies!! ive read about the cams, i think it may be a little trial and error,i thought about getting some from a saab turbo lump, for better duration etc, but id need to look into this, ive heard the internals arent all that , but are good for 250 ish, il be getting a spare engine to build up with c20let pistons and some decent rods when i get the £££££ cryo hardending or something? there's a mini guy that does that, but crank mainly break due to high revs etc, hopefully i wont need to be hanging it out on the red line! Going to have ARP bolts to keep everything in, but the main reason for using this engine is becasue the are cheap and there is thousands of them and when your kinda on a budget like me thats the prime reason, maybe il fit a 3.2 at a later date? il have a mech handbrake when it comes to MOT time,at least for the time its getting tested, A pal of mine has an M400 noble, which is twin turbo V6 and his pal has a larger single turbo, the twin seems a bit more ''driveable''? lol not that I'm overly concerned......lol |
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village
Part of things
Always carries a toolbox. Because Volkswagen.......
Posts: 567
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hopefully I wont need to be hanging it out on the red line! I had a Cavalier V6 (which I still miss) and it loved the redline, I think max power was made about 500rpm below the limiter (6700rpm IIRC) and it would howl it's way up there beautifully. Mine had 169k on the clock when I got rid of it (given away for free) and the engine was still going strong. great engine, great project! |
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"The White Van is strong with this one...."
Chris "Chesney" Allen 1976-2005 RIP
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hopefully I wont need to be hanging it out on the red line! I had a Cavalier V6 (which I still miss) and it loved the redline, I think max power was made about 500rpm below the limiter (6700rpm IIRC) and it would howl it's way up there beautifully. Mine had 169k on the clock when I got rid of it (given away for free) and the engine was still going strong. great engine, great project! Thanks bro! hopefully itl weigh a fair bit less than a vectra, and the turbo's should add to the fun too!! |
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woodenspatulas
Part of things
Retro in ways you can't imagine
Posts: 448
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Damn I thought the sticker was going to get me extra ponies!! ive read about the cams, I think it may be a little trial and error,i thought about getting some from a saab turbo lump, for better duration etc, but id need to look into this, ive heard the internals arent all that , but are good for 250 ish, il be getting a spare engine to build up with c20let pistons and some decent rods when I get the £££££ cryo hardending or something? there's a mini guy that does that, but crank mainly break due to high revs etc, hopefully I wont need to be hanging it out on the red line! Going to have ARP bolts to keep everything in,  everyone knows its only the "this sticker ads 10bhp" that works! nice thinking regarding the cams, if you do bin the gsi ones, worth bunging them on ebay as a upgrade for someone with the sri v6. simple bolt on upgrade, get a few pennies back. A friend of mine who setup a omex controlled SC v6 said its the boost that breaks the rods, they just werent up to it. but maybe when looking at saab cams, maybe try the rods, maybe saab changed them. Any ideas on intake? as the vectra setup is pants! the omega had a better setup, or one off a cav or again a saab would be better. |
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1999 Vectra Estate + 1995 Saab Engine = Good Times
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Bioshock
Posted a lot
It aint hip to be square.
Posts: 1,861
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This thread reminded me of the GTD Big block Ford pickup   Awesome! |
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Last Edit: Nov 3, 2011 23:20:47 GMT by Bioshock
Almera GTI = ugly bird who turns out to be great in the sack = Win
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i did want the engine longways but couldnt find the box i was after, looks cool,i hope to be alot more subtle and a load more power...
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Hmm,
my single turbo 3.0 v6 irmscher kitted omega ate the engine internals 3 times before i started running it on valvoline synthetic racing oil, and it didnt have a lot of boost!! admittedly i didnt know the history of it when i bought it cheap with a blown bottom end, but it was a pain in the arris learning that they didnt like the pressure the turbo put on the bottom end!! thats why saab only did a low blow single turbo,
think if you can uprate the bottom end and oil pump you have a chance of it surviving, but i wouldnt put money on it!
having said that if you are using a 2.5 its a shorter stroke so wont put so much pressure on the bottom end i think
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what was it that broke 3 times?
got any pics?
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what was it that broke 3 times? got any pics? big ends kept going oval chap!!! nice knock under acceleration when it happens!! |
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anything that ARP's couldnt solve?
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Last Edit: Nov 6, 2011 18:05:56 GMT by Rubicon
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might have to consider selling this.......would rathe rget it complete, but a few changes have to be made.....  |
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I saw 2.5 Twin Turbo and thought 2JZ-GTE  |
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i saw £££££££££££££
lol
would have loved a ''better'' engine, but its all money
at the rate of fuel going up i may just chuck in a little 4 pot diesel!!!
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Feb 14, 2012 23:01:46 GMT
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after a pair of 8 x 13's for the rear.......
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Jan 31, 2013 20:38:09 GMT
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RIGHT.....after an evening of forums, youtube and internet banking....i think its about time i got back on with this, not gonna turbo it straight away now, i think il get it running etc first then blow it up after ive used it for a bit....gonna go see it in the morning make a big list of to do, and to buy, along with a rough time scale,
i think when i left off i was trying to either get the brakes or the steering sorted, but i was waiting for a couple of mk1 metro ball joint and i got mk2's which don't fit in mini bottom arms i recall,
so il order those asap,
i was going to use a fancy pedal box, but tbh no need to really, so il just use a mini servo setup in the front as i have one already, and also its not like i have tons of leg room either,
i had a uj for the steering column but i maybe again for now i will just use a standard mini setup with a differnent mount of some kind,
well that should be enough to be getting on with for now...
i will keep this updated!!
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Jan 31, 2013 20:38:46 GMT
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Things to do to the pickup........ 1. Get the rollcage completed!!!! 2. Finish the seat rails / sill bars 3. 3mm plate on the drivers side bulkhead 4. Rear angled struts(subframe mounts)and floor mounts 5. Need 2 25mmish tubes for the steering column mount,19mm Internal rose joint +insert adapter boss,19mm U.J X2 (23mm UJ’s are available , bore out the centre’s to 19mm then weld them to the column) 6. Seat mount brackets need to be made Copy Alex...... 1. Get it rolling!!!! 2. Fit ALL ball joints and Front track rod ends. 3. Front lower subframe mounts 4. Rear steering arm fixed postion needs to be done,like RWD mini VAN on 16v.....=Box section, 2Xrose joints andL/H threaded Bar between both. 5. Rear Tie bars and mounting point needs to be sorted, 3mm plate in the rear lower 1”box section??? Solid? Poly?  Adjustable one’s to be modified. 6. Coilovers need to be bought for the rear!!!!! 7. I think the rear Triangulation supports should be removed and suspension mounting points should be taken from somewhere there? 8. Fit front shocks and Hi-lo’s........ 9. At this point, it should be rolling straight and steer too,cage will be finished , although time for further gusseting can be done in some places if its flexing bad? 10. I suspect maybe the engine could be removed at this point as this would make it easyer to move? 1. Get the interior Completed!!!!!! 2. All the minor repairs inside should be addressed by now,inc tunnel repairs and seam sealing over ALL welds and edges that should be done,grind back welds where needed, floor may be a bit grapesed by now,so sort that too, 3. Prep rollcage,making sure all gussets and welds are completed,HARNESS BAR if thats not already done!! A quick 240/360 on the cage should do fine, the floor and other panels will get a decent scotch as they wont be seen under carpet, but will still be painted. 4. Once seam sealed and 100% cleaned and prepped only the interior and spare wheel area will be painted,A cover should be made for this area, 1.2mm alloy sheet? 5. Ford magnum grey for the interior,based in white. 1. First fixings!!!!! 2. internal brake lines,Copper lines ,Hydrolic handbrake and brake LINE LOCK to be purchased ,fitted inside, if Metro turbo 4 pots have not been rebuilt by now,they need to be asap! Braided lines to each calliper and fixings need to be bought....Brake servo to be fitted first then work back from there.........Vacum needs to be run from the rear too!! 3. Fuel lines, 8mm internal lines, to be P-cliped along the tunnel, Maybe two lines with 2 pumps should be used to feed the engine? Pump’s to be bought and mounted in the lower rear section behind the seats,Alloy fuel tank will be fitted in the front, custom size, or an ebay jobbie will do must have 2 take offs for both pumps...Regulators need to be sorted too...which ones??? 4. Front to rear water pipe either copper or stainless, or whatever is lying around at the time? With rubber bends, Universal alloy rad and fans need to be purchased too, as well as fitting, a water header tank and fan swith control system? AND possibley a ELECTRIC water pump if Mech one cant be done? 5. 12V+ copper cable to be run to solendiods in the rear engine bay? Battery mounted in the front,behind the rad , but infront of the raditator low as poss.. 6. So now its rolling, can be sat in and steered, can brake , has a fuel tank, rad, and battery, fuel pumps and ALL lines must be completed by now, minus the electrical system. |
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Jan 31, 2013 20:39:23 GMT
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So after a quick look today, betteer than nothing, i remembered a few issues i had forgotten about, like drive to the water pump as there is now a subframe in the way,
possible that i could use a 12v one, but last resort if poss, also finding a space and mounting the alternator, could go at the front of the engine where the power steering or aircon pump went as there is still space there.
but thats for another day, for now i need to get the rear wheels fixed as in fixing steering arms and then the tie bars at the rear too, oh and order 8 mk1 metro ball joints as i don't have any mini hubs, even if i did id still have to change them so may as well use what i have got,
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everyone knows its only the "this sticker ads 10bhp" that works!
Adjustable one’s to be modified.