valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Don't let the rot disappoint you, any car of this age will have rot and for a 340 you're doing pretty well I'd say. As with mine, the more problems you find the more you know about, if you go and buy another one you're taking on a whole new set of problems you don't know about at all. I'd say fix up the problems as you find them (they actually don't look *that* bad) and know that they're then fixed. Unless something really serious happens (shan't suggest anything, just in case XD) so far I don't see anything on it that would put me off carrying on. Remember, it could be worse: retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=78084 and if he can take on something like that, your 340 should be easy. Besides, the 340 is a rare and unusual sight these days, stick with it if you want to stand out a bit. yeah I have decided to keep it, just I'm not sure weather to try and sort all the welding in the next 2 weeks in time for my test or find another one once the MOT runs out and put this one in storage untill I have time for it because it needs a new inner wing on one side and a new valence... passenger wing... rear light cluster plate thingy that always rots on these jsut seems like alot of work to try and do in a short perioud of time.... then again I dnt have anything to do as college finished, how hard are inner wings to sort on these? thanks guys edit: just reading that thread, thats ALOT of work
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Last Edit: Jun 9, 2010 16:31:50 GMT by valman
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johnrh
Part of things
Posts: 958
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Jun 10, 2010 17:57:09 GMT
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Don't let the rot disappoint you, any car of this age will have rot and for a 340 you're doing pretty well I'd say. As with mine, the more problems you find the more you know about, if you go and buy another one you're taking on a whole new set of problems you don't know about at all. I'd say fix up the problems as you find them (they actually don't look *that* bad) and know that they're then fixed. Unless something really serious happens (shan't suggest anything, just in case XD) so far I don't see anything on it that would put me off carrying on. Remember, it could be worse: retrorides.proboards.com/index.cgi?board=readersrides&action=display&thread=78084 and if he can take on something like that, your 340 should be easy. Besides, the 340 is a rare and unusual sight these days, stick with it if you want to stand out a bit. yeah I have decided to keep it, just I'm not sure weather to try and sort all the welding in the next 2 weeks in time for my test or find another one once the MOT runs out and put this one in storage untill I have time for it because it needs a new inner wing on one side and a new valence... passenger wing... rear light cluster plate thingy that always rots on these jsut seems like alot of work to try and do in a short perioud of time.... then again I dnt have anything to do as college finished, how hard are inner wings to sort on these? thanks guys edit: just reading that thread, thats ALOT of work Hey, Don't get bogged down with it. You're describing everything it needs to be 100% right. It will not need all that for the MOT, so do anything which is near suspension mountings, seatbelt mounts, etc, then do the rest later. It's a good solid car, so don't panic with it. John
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 14, 2010 14:47:13 GMT
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thanks for the support John, I'm still undecided weather to go ahead and make small rust repairs during the next 2 weeks as i have nothing to do... anybody wanna flip a coin?
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 16, 2010 20:06:17 GMT
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just lowering left
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 16, 2010 20:09:00 GMT
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anyone know the easiest way to get this 3 inches lower on the back? i know you can get 2 inch blocks... but is that safe? and if it is.. where can i get 3 inch blocks? thanks
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marcp
Part of things
Posts: 91
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Jun 16, 2010 20:28:10 GMT
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Looks alright does that!
Like others have said, don't worry too much about the rust, its your first car, just enjoy using it, be safe, but enjoy yourself and do running repairs.
My discovery is a total rust bucket that I got ripped off over, but I'm slowly plodding along with it, all the important bits are done.
What I would have done to have a cool little skid wagon as a first car!
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 16, 2010 21:06:59 GMT
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Looks alright does that! Like others have said, don't worry too much about the rust, its your first car, just enjoy using it, be safe, but enjoy yourself and do running repairs. My discovery is a total rust bucket that I got ripped off over, but I'm slowly plodding along with it, all the important bits are done. What I would have done to have a cool little skid wagon as a first car! thanks for the reply mate , feels awful getting something that you thought was a steal but eventually finding more and more little gremlins I'm going to drive careful when others are in the car as i know the passenger side isnt as strong as it was when non rusty, wouldnt want to hurt anyone just because my car wasnt up to the job this has given me a total mojo boost fitting that rack ;D I'm even quite happy with the wheels i reckon will look ok once 3 inches are knocked off the height
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 16, 2010 21:10:54 GMT
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what I'm aiming for:
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 18, 2010 16:23:12 GMT
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right, did a small few things today - mainly cleaning the engine bay: and then i had a little play with the airbox. as i cant afford to spend 40 odd quid on a K&N bolt on filter i though i might aswell see what i can do with the current item. especially as the filter in there is new anyway. this is what i did: i cut extra holes in the plasatic for increased airflow. but i also left a few bits of plastic on the surround so come winder time i can patch it up with ducttape and slap on the standard hot air feed etc. this is it with the top on (which i also painted)
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 18, 2010 16:23:59 GMT
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so all feedback is welcome -especially on the air box as i want to know if what i did was totally stupid or somewhat usefull
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Speedle
Posted a lot
Need a Country Rock band in the Hampshire Area? https://www.facebook.com/DirtRoadDiaryUK
Posts: 2,221
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Jun 18, 2010 16:39:09 GMT
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only just spotted this, my bro had a 340 for his first car. the worst thing he ever did was sell it. Bloody Marvellous machines, this ones coming along nice chap. Impressed with your DIY sill repairs tidy job that. As for your airbox I can't really see anything wrong with that should make it sound nice and meaty and cost you nothing. Cheap mods go down well here
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 18, 2010 18:00:22 GMT
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thanks man they are a great car, can't wait to drive it properly - only a week till my test too. hope i pass hahaa yeah the only problem i thought about with the airbox is hot air from the engine.. but when its moving itll be fine i reckon
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johnrh
Part of things
Posts: 958
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You should make some ducting from the front of the car to direct cold air to the air filter box as it drives along.
As for lowering blocks, yes I think they are safe if done correctly. They have been used for many decades on leaf sprung cars like old Escorts and MGs.
If you can get a good photo or drawing of a 2 inch block and take careful measurements (or even better, borrow one) an engineering shop will be able to make some 3 inch versions for you from, say, aluminum billet. It won't be mega cheap, but shouldn't cost a fortune either.
You'll need good, strong high tensile bolts to fit it back up.
Be very careful about your insurance though. Any mods must be declared and the more you do, the more they will charge. Failing to disclose is not an option, because in effect that leaves you uninsured and bankrupt for life if a big claim is made against you.
John
PS - best of luck with the test! You'll be fine if you stay calm, concentrate fully and don't get flustered if you think you've made a small error. Let us know how it goes.
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Last Edit: Jun 20, 2010 9:05:07 GMT by johnrh
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 20, 2010 10:12:01 GMT
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thanks for the tips john on my test and ill see what i have to make ducting from. I'm considering using thick box section for the blocks as a company down the road from me build gates and have loads of off-cuts and never take any money for them insurance wise they are ok with modifications, they just add £50 to the excess i think I'm just going to use the grinder to lower the front
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valman
Part of things
Posts: 603
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Jun 21, 2010 15:38:34 GMT
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right today i got my "lowering block" so I'm pondering about going to 4 inch blocks but obviously safety is a big concern. But a bigger problem is matching the front to the back - if i was to cut 4 inches off the coils on the front - ill have half an inch of space between tire and wheel tub. what to do guys? it needs to be as low as possible really :/
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johnrh
Part of things
Posts: 958
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Jun 22, 2010 19:36:24 GMT
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right today I got my "lowering block" so I'm pondering about going to 4 inch blocks but obviously safety is a big concern. But a bigger problem is matching the front to the back - if I was to cut 4 inches off the coils on the front - ill have half an inch of space between tire and wheel tub. what to do guys? it needs to be as low as possible really :/ Don't go too low. It will be horrible to drive and dangergous if you go fast. Silly to risk that just for looks. John
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wallopadonkey
Part of things
stunning grinder! curse word welder!
Posts: 234
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Jun 23, 2010 19:40:21 GMT
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hi there you could really do with the lowering blocks being solid it is not going to last with thin wall box section, use it to see what it looks like by all means but you need to get solid billet aluminium really fella before you hit the streets, it aint worth them crushing and causing an accident cheers dave
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1983 mini city e 1985 miny Mayfair 1997 Audi a4 tdi 2003 gsxf 750
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mat91
Part of things
Posts: 399
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getting there fella and ive made my own lowering blocks out of 3" box section and its fine done alot of drifting on them all i did was cap the end with same size metal and welded them in and mines pretty low now sat on bump stops at front with cut lowering springs which at first i thought was gunna be curse word but with engine oil in the front dampers and landy dampers on back they drive brillant i get no under steer at all driving at silly speeds ;D just get some sticky tyres on front and get skidding lol
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The stupid is everywhere
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wallopadonkey
Part of things
stunning grinder! curse word welder!
Posts: 234
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welding caps on the end of 2mm or 3mm box will stiffen it no end i didnt want a relatively inexperienced young lad to have an accident if one of his boxes collapses whilst driving etc etc etc cheers dave
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1983 mini city e 1985 miny Mayfair 1997 Audi a4 tdi 2003 gsxf 750
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mat91
Part of things
Posts: 399
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Jun 24, 2010 17:14:56 GMT
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yer i get your point usual saying welding will put most people of thou me it just makes it more fun
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The stupid is everywhere
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