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Dec 15, 2005 13:38:17 GMT
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I've been thinking of getting the new front wings and the new doors for my Amazon galvanised so that they can't rot out like the last ones. Both wings are perfect - one new old stock, the other just 3 years old. One of the doors is also new old stock, the others (which I haven't bought yet....) will also be equally rust-free, so all are in a suitibly good condition for it to be worth it.
Obviously any captive nuts / threads will need to be cleaned out with a tap afterwards - but can anyone advise on the possible pitfalls of having these (or any other) panels galvanised?
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Last Edit: Dec 15, 2005 13:57:52 GMT by Paul H
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Dec 15, 2005 13:56:01 GMT
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Paint will not stick/stay on so well.
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Dec 15, 2005 13:57:02 GMT
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Is it just a case of using the right etch primer?
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Dec 15, 2005 14:13:40 GMT
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watch out with galvanising the temprature involved are high and warp panels quite easy this has happend to me in the past so be aware of this andy
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Dec 15, 2005 14:14:36 GMT
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Agreed but I would have the etch primer sprayed on by a 'proffesional' centre who are used to this sort of thing and not a rattle can of so-called etch primer from Car plan etc. Galvanising though isn't the end of rust worrys, remember replacement 'A' panels for Minis sold by panel suppliers were always galvanised and still they rusted where they were welded on. It will help but is never an end to the biggest enemy (rust) of car ownership
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Dec 15, 2005 14:18:59 GMT
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Ah, but I would only be galvanising bolt-on panels! Minis rot like crazy anyway..... :-(
Mmmm - the warping issue doesn't sound too good. Do you know if this happens just on flat panels, or also on curved ones too?
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Dec 15, 2005 14:26:59 GMT
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ive done quite afew panels and id say 50/50 were warping is concerned flat panels the most but ive had wings all shape when they came back depends on the guy and what there doing that day ?? andy
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Dec 15, 2005 14:36:45 GMT
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The Zinc is designed to be a sacrificial coating, and it is a Bug*er to get paint to stick to it, even with the proper Spraying kit and 2K etch primers. The Audi is Galvanised If you do get them done, leave the panels outside in the weather for 6 months afterwards Seriously, the etch primer will stick a lot better I personally would have the panels acid dipped, cleaned and then painted with something like Kephos first, this will give a corrosion resistant base that etches in to the base metal and accepts paint over the top, it is also to some extent self healing as well. Do a search for Kephos, and have a read up, its used a lot in M-sport as its a lightweight 1 shot satin black finish, which is very hard wearing, corrosion resistant and does not need to be stripped to X-ray parts ;D HTH Dom
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Dec 15, 2005 14:56:48 GMT
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Sounds very interesting - cheers Dom!
At least two of the NOS panels need dipping / blasting anyway due to very mild surface rust (they are 35 / 40 years old!!), & given the risks involved in galvanising, that's not really worth it, so I'll look into Kephos. The insides of the doors will also be heavily waxoyled to help prevent any future rust.
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Nathan
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,649
Club RR Member Number: 1
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GalvanisingNathan
@bgtmidget7476
Club Retro Rides Member 1
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Dec 15, 2005 15:00:31 GMT
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I just tend to Waxoyl them like a curse word inside, 4 years and 8 years and not a bubble in sight, Of course it does mean Taking you door cards off once a year just to check. Also just make sure the paint work on the door is good, then you should be laughing The Ideas above are good, just beack when I did my car i never thought of all that
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SidewaysGTM
Part of things
Spending my time at the Race track, Pub or in an Engine
Posts: 227
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Dec 15, 2005 16:05:18 GMT
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where can i find Kephos in the uk then as it sounds promising for my rear subframe, origianlly painter in satin black smootherite, but its already showing signs of deteriating after 17k miles of being shot balst by the crud on the road. I'm going to repaint it when i do my engine swap just not too sure what with yet, was thinking about POR15 a tough epoxy paint found at Frosts, ut the Kephos has me tempted
WEST
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Live life sideways, Honda Powered GTM Coupe, you better belive it GTM Coupe VTEC Constant progression and acceleration 67' Triumph Vitesse 2ltr [finally decided what to do with it, at the planning stage] 92' Mini nearly std [SOLD and Missed] GTM ownersclub forum
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Dec 15, 2005 16:09:07 GMT
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hey sideways conciderd powder coating? ive had a mini rear sub done that was 10 years ago STILLgoing strong andy
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SidewaysGTM
Part of things
Spending my time at the Race track, Pub or in an Engine
Posts: 227
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Dec 15, 2005 16:21:22 GMT
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Yup i have but thats not all its cracked up to be been there done that ;D, if it isnt done proberly it causes more problems plus it gets ruined if i want to mod anything and weld anything to it [and i cant help myself to keep modding and improving ] ive found powder coating can be a pain on thicker sections doesnt always stick, hence why I'm looking at painting in something trick plus then its easy to repair if i want and i can strip it for crack inspection if i really feel like it, i treat my car as a race car [and it gets used like one] so it gets regularly stripped and inspected. Cheers WEST
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Live life sideways, Honda Powered GTM Coupe, you better belive it GTM Coupe VTEC Constant progression and acceleration 67' Triumph Vitesse 2ltr [finally decided what to do with it, at the planning stage] 92' Mini nearly std [SOLD and Missed] GTM ownersclub forum
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Mr K
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,993
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Dec 15, 2005 17:00:52 GMT
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where can i find Kephos in the uk then as it sounds promising for my rear subframe, origianlly painter in satin black smootherite, but its already showing signs of deteriating after 17k miles of being shot balst by the crud on the road. I'm going to repaint it when i do my engine swap just not too sure what with yet, was thinking about POR15 a tough epoxy paint found at Frosts, ut the Kephos has me tempted WEST Surly you don't want a undercar paint to be too thick and solid as it would chip easier? I think a car in bare galvanise would look wicked.... a good alternative to the naked look!
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Dec 15, 2005 18:48:18 GMT
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Yup i have but thats not all its cracked up to be been there done that ;D, if it isnt done proberly it causes more problems plus it gets ruined if i want to mod anything and weld anything to it [and i cant help myself to keep modding and improving ] ive found powder coating can be a pain on thicker sections doesnt always stick, hence why I'm looking at painting in something trick plus then its easy to repair if i want and i can strip it for crack inspection if i really feel like it, i treat my car as a race car [and it gets used like one] so it gets regularly stripped and inspected. Cheers WEST You`ll have to do a search for suppliers, but it is a heat cure finish, so you cant just grind a bit off weld and then repaint with Kephos..... because you will need to cook it to cure it
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SidewaysGTM
Part of things
Spending my time at the Race track, Pub or in an Engine
Posts: 227
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Dec 15, 2005 20:07:57 GMT
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You`ll have to do a search for suppliers, but it is a heat cure finish, so you cant just grind a bit off weld and then repaint with Kephos..... because you will need to cook it to cure it Ah thought it was too good to be true, well looking like POR 15 may be given a try seeing smootherite is failing at the job,got a bit of time to keep looking, as havnt found "the engine" yet for the upgrade and when thats been done ill do the subframe, in the meantime i cant wait to get back to the workshop to get on with Project carboncheers WEST
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Live life sideways, Honda Powered GTM Coupe, you better belive it GTM Coupe VTEC Constant progression and acceleration 67' Triumph Vitesse 2ltr [finally decided what to do with it, at the planning stage] 92' Mini nearly std [SOLD and Missed] GTM ownersclub forum
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