What they said /\ If you look at the top cap jewel (which acts as a thrust bearing) in that last photo you can see its actually a properly cut diamond (fitted in a blued steel mount), as is the way with some real good grade movements.
Quite excited because having dropped my cufflinks off at the Assay Office last week I picked them up yesterday, freshly hallmarked.
I made a second pair as they have a minimum charge for marking so it was worthwhile doing. A bit showy but they're only for me.
The Lion is the traditional mark for Sterling Silver, the 925 being the numerical grading of sterling silver (999 is pretty much pure, 750 on gold denotes 18K etc.). The SK is the "Sponsors" or makers mark. The Lion's head is the mark of the London Assay Office and the "m" is the year mark.
I'm quite excited really. There's obviously thousands of people out there making stuff and getting it marked but it does feel a bit special, especially as these are the first things I've had done. Having picked them up I showed one of my watch clients and he was quite interested in me making more car related ones for him to sell so maybe I'll end up doing some more.
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
This is a fascinating thread; working on that sort of scale amazes me. You must be a very patient man.
(I took apart an alarm clock once when it jammed, and it did more-or-less as you'd expect when you rapidly release the tension in a spring through a set of cogs that are no longer supported by the case . That was about 13 years ago and it's still in pieces in the bottom of a drawer...)
1989 Peugeot 205. You know, the one that was parked in a ditch on the campsite at RRG'17...
WOW, i hadn't spotted this thread resurfacing but after it's nomination I thought I'd see what I'd missed. Stunning, absolutely stunning work. Incredible to think of the minute detail involved and precision.
I might be laughing a bit manically as this next job has turned me into a bit of a mentalist. Its not my usual fare - here you can see the movement of a nice ladies wristwatch next to the sort of size movement I normally work on.
The design of the watch is such that it is very susceptable to water/sweat ingress as the winder button is on the back rather than the side. This watch had been repaired by the manufacturer once before but had stopped again and the owner had taken it to a shop who said it needed more than just regular servicing to make it work again and they couldn't do it. Basically some dampness had got in and had caused one of the components to rust such that its pivot disintegrated. I said I'd have a go....
I didn't actually take photos while making the bit but here's one with the watch running with the new part fitted and the broken piece next to it.
Might be easier to see in this shot with the macro lens on the camera.
Its the arbor (or 'axle') for the lever that flicks to and fro as the watch runs. The arrow is pointing to the top jewel hole in which it fits.
As I said one pivot was gone and I had to stone off the other pivot in order to push it out of the lever - its a friction fit. Then used it as a reference for the new one. It was made from some 0.4mm dia steel wire, the OD is about 0.25mm - to push fit into the lever - and the pivots on each end are 0.1mm or perhaps a bit smaller, made to fit the jewel holes. Length is also obviously critical as there's not a lot of room for endfloat. That'sa metal rule at the side, the small graduations being half millimetres.
So there we go. The smallest bit I've made, and I think ever wish to make! Excuse me while I go and take my pills....
You must have the patience of a saint, fantastic work sir.
Past: 13 VW Beetles from 1967 - 1974 Bay Window Campers (1973 & 1974) Mini's (1992 Cooper lookalike & 1984 '25 Anniversary) MK2 Polo Coupe S (1984 & 1986) MK2 Polo Breadvan (1981 & 1984) MK4 Escort (1989) MK2 Granada Based Hearse (seriously) Fiat Uno 60S (1986) Punto 60S (1998) Cinq (1997) 1998 Yamaha YZF600R Thundercat 2003 Ford KA
Actually making that small arbor wasn't so bad, it was the repetitive handling and manipulating of other small parts, particularly the lever that was a bit mind numbing. Its so easy for something to ping out of the tweezers when offering up to test size etc. and you can't just put something down without concentrating on where you've put it. Loosing something else would be bad!
Grizz, thought I had replied in the chest thread but maybe not as its been a funny week. Looks good.
Follow your dreams or you might as well be a vegetable.
Building and detailing models actually gave me some good background experience in doing smallish stuff.
Thanks to those who voted for this in the awards. Glad you are enjoying it.
There was something else I had to sort out on that small watch. The winding button is on the back of the case so is hidden against the wearers wrist in use. This would have been done for style reasons but is the likely cause of the influx of dampness that caused the rust so the customer wanted to know if there was something I could do to try and prevent it happening again.
The button is held on to the winding stem by a small 'sleeve' screw.
But, the thread in the screw had been mangled by previous bad handling such that it was hardly holding the button on. Since you pull the button away from the case in order to set the hands it would just pull off altogether rather than clicking into the handset position. Oh, and to make life more interesting for me the thread is left handed - so that when winding the watch it would tend to do up rather than come loose.
Turning a new screw to shape was not complicated. Here it is with the stem and button it needs to fit.
In the background there is a small lantern chuck. Its purpose will become clear in a moment.
When looking at the thread on the stem it also looked very worn but close inspection under the microscope showed it to be full of gunk, mostly superglue, presumably used by the last person who took the watch apart to hold it together
That small lantern chuck would normally be used to hold a screw so that the end of the thread could be trimmed/polished. I found it was able to hold the stem just about concentrically enough for me to manually drag a graver through the thread, while turning the lathe by hand, in order to clean out the glue and a couple of deformed areas, giving me as good a thread as I was likely to get without a left hand die.
Oh, yes, I still needed to tap the new sleeve screw. The thread on the stem measured as 0.55mm O/D and so I bought a normal RH tap in that size hoping that the pitch would be close which it was. Here it is with a 0.4mm drill which I found by experimenting on some brass sheet seemed to give a better looking thread than a 0.45.
I had read in a book that in an 'emergency' a RH tap could be modified to produce a LH thread. I had a practice first with an old tap before attacking this new one and it seemed to work. So I ground the tapered portion off the end and then using a stone, ground across the fluted areas to leave the tap with just points to the teeth.
This removes virtually all of the RH helix so that by carefully rotating the tap in the opposite direction with suitable pressure it will cut a LH thread. It worked OK, though since the pitch wasn't quite a match to the stem (not unusual when working with older things) I used the stem itself to finish the tapping such that it would form the thread to suit itself. This method certainly gave a satisfactory outcome for a one off job like this.
IN order to try and effect a better seal I found some wristwatch stem seals that looked like the right sort of size. Fitting one over the tube of the button, it would hopefully provide some sealing against the small boss sticking up from the case back. I had to shave the boss down a little to allow for the thickness of the seal.
Wow! I enjoy tinkering with watches and movements but that is work on a much more microscopic scale. Very very impressive
Out of interest, where/how did you train for this sort of stuff? I've been toying with the idea of doing more than piddling about with dials and hands and even taking on the odd repair (I'm always getting asked but I have no confidence I wouldn't make things worse...)