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May 19, 2017 11:46:35 GMT
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...What I really need is a load of hose, bends and connector pipes of various sizes to spend a morning fitting and arranging to see what works. Sadly that would waste a bunch of money if I bought a load to do that, and no shop is going to let you fit a bunch of new hose/pipe work to test it before deciding on something else... One old-school technique for that is to take some stiff wire and bend it to match the routing/length you need, then take that to the shop and compare it to available pieces. |
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May 19, 2017 12:00:55 GMT
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The Rascal King that is a great idea  I have a place I can go to to get the bits rather than order online, so I can do that, thanks for the tip 
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Okay slightly delayed update as I lost my old phone which I used for doing garage photo stuff. Found it tucked inside one of my trainers, no idea how or why. Over the last couple of weeks I've been doing the last of the checks I wanted to do before putting everything back together. This included dismantling most of the dashboard so I could check the heater matrix wasn't blocked. Actually getting to the heater matrix was actually pretty impossible, so I left that side at checking that the pipe work was complete as far as I could see. Which it was. Decided to check for blockages by running water through the inlet pipe and making sure it came out the outlet.  And it didn't. So back inside I checked the pipe work again and found the stop cock was shut. Now I don't know if I did this when I dismantled everything or if this was done when the engine swap happened, either way coolant wasn't flowing. I changed its position and now coolant flows through. I'm guessing it is now bypassing the heater matrix, so there is probably a blockage in there somewhere, but working heaters is the least of my problems at the moment so I'll have a look at that another time. My dashboard currently looks like this :  With the coolant flow checked it was time to pit things back together.  During the course of this I managed to sheer another bolt, this one on the thermostat inlet  Next update (later today) should have a picture of 90% of the cooling system back together I'm waiting for parts to arrive today though, so I think I'm going to put the roll center adjusters on this morning. If I can then work out the wiring for the fan controller they car will be running within the week. Then it needs an MOT :/ |
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Jun 10, 2017 10:12:45 GMT
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Fitting the RCA, and now the ball joint fouls the brakes. Suspect I'll be going at the edge of the ball joint with an angle grinder tomorrow, unless anyone has a better idea?  |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jun 10, 2017 11:51:40 GMT
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Okay slightly delayed update as I lost my old phone which I used for doing garage photo stuff. Found it tucked inside one of my trainers, no idea how or why. Over the last couple of weeks I've been doing the last of the checks I wanted to do before putting everything back together. This included dismantling most of the dashboard so I could check the heater matrix wasn't blocked. Actually getting to the heater matrix was actually pretty impossible, so I left that side at checking that the pipe work was complete as far as I could see. Which it was. Decided to check for blockages by running water through the inlet pipe and making sure it came out the outlet. And it didn't. So back inside I checked the pipe work again and found the stop cock was shut. Now I don't know if I did this when I dismantled everything or if this was done when the engine swap happened, either way coolant wasn't flowing. I changed its position and now coolant flows through. I'm guessing it is now bypassing the heater matrix, so there is probably a blockage in there somewhere, but working heaters is the least of my problems at the moment so I'll have a look at that another time. If the matrix is blocked you need mains pressure to clear it and it may be that you have to flush both ways several times before you clear any blockages What frequently happens is previous owners use stuff like Radweld and whilst it works well as a get you home bodge it cloggs up the matrix. What you may find is once unblocked it leaks so you really need to fix this while your dash is apart as access is so much easier right now |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jun 10, 2017 11:53:43 GMT
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Oh and I think if you have a "stopcock" in circuit that is half your overheating problem as it may be blocking off an essential circuit for the current engine but been perfectly acceptable with the previous engine as it would have been designed to work that way.
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The Doctor
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 3,449
Club RR Member Number: 48
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Jun 11, 2017 10:20:44 GMT
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Fitting the RCA, and now the ball joint fouls the brakes. Suspect I'll be going at the edge of the ball joint with an angle grinder tomorrow, unless anyone has a better idea? You could try and use a set of NCRCA's, which pushes the bottom of the strut out a bit, but i guess taking a grinder to the edge of the steering arm is just as good and cheaper You only need a little bit of clearance. |
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Jun 13, 2017 20:08:50 GMT
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Fitting the RCA, and now the ball joint fouls the brakes. Suspect I'll be going at the edge of the ball joint with an angle grinder tomorrow, unless anyone has a better idea? Looking at this picture makes me think if the balljoint mounting surface is symmetrical; it looks like the boltholes are slightly offset from the center of the balljoint itself? If that's the case, just twisting around the mountingplate should make some more clearnace! |
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Jul 14, 2017 17:10:38 GMT
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Exciting times. I got the RCA on, and it seems I've solved the cooling problems (even with only one fan wired up). Ran the car for 20 minutes and it didn't get above 80, need to do a longer test and one after a run out, but it is looking good so far. So I thought I'd drive it out the garage and see if the RCAs had improved things. Hold on though, what is that horrendous grinding noise? Why it is the wheels rubbing on the steering arm now it has been pushed down by the RCA. Great. Pulled it back in to the garage and tried on my new wheels to see if they would fit or if I needed to do something with the RCAs ... They fit! ... So I took the tyres I'd bought (Toyo Proxy TR1s) and got them fitted up. All good they came out exactly how I wanted them. Then I stuck one on the car...   So I've now got lovely wheels on the car but I can't turn the wheel because of the shape of the arch, also they are going to rub. I'm happy to raise the suspension to avoid rubbing but the steering is still going to be a problem. God I hate this car some times. |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jul 14, 2017 17:29:11 GMT
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Why is the wheel so far forward in the arch - have you got some lock on in the photo?
Doesn't look like a difficult issue to create some clearance??
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Jul 14, 2017 17:36:26 GMT
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Why is the wheel so far forward in the arch - have you got some lock on in the photo? Doesn't look like a difficult issue to create some clearance?? It does look that way, a little bit of lock maybe and the camera angle/lense I think. It is a whole lot closer at the top than it looks in the photo. Yeah I think I need to make a decision about cutting a bit of the arch in front of the wheel. On reflection I think I'll drop the RCAs out, put the old wheel back on and take it to get an MOT, then decide what I want to do after that, depending on how that goes. |
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Jul 14, 2017 17:52:26 GMT
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Surely someone somewhere has buggered about with one of these somewhere so that yiu can copy what they have done ?
You must be bloody fustrated
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Jul 14, 2017 18:10:24 GMT
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Went back in the thread to find the picture I remembered - looks like a tweak would be required on the front wing unless you've over tyred it? |
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Jul 14, 2017 18:17:48 GMT
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Surely someone somewhere has buggered about with one of these somewhere so that yiu can copy what they have done ? Here is the thing there are... but they are spread around the world and there isn't a load of info about them, also people have different budgets. There is an SR20DET B310 race car in Australia, which has a few photos online and a little bit of info, but not much, I suspect it wasn't built to a budget, it is crazy fast. There are a couple of other B310s with SR20DETs around the place but again precious little info and they have different parts availability where they are. There are A LOT of B310 race cars in Japan, but the parts are really costly (and hard to get here), which is why I went down the SR20 route, looking back now I should have stuck with the A-series engine and 14" wheels. There is a certain amount of sunken cost fallacy going on here too, if I was more objective I'd probably just junk off the whole of the front suspension setup, start again, then fit arch flares as well whilst I was at it, but I know what I want and I'd like to get there. I think the tuck in on the front arch may get a bit of a massage by a body work person. You must be bloody fustrated Yes, in theory I should have been solving these problems two or three years ago when I had more motivation for the project, instead I've been having to gradually sort out the work that was done on the car by a professional garage. That work still isn't completely sorted so even when this stuff I'm doing now is done I've still got a list of things as long as my arm to sort out. It is both depressing and frustrating. Another year going by where the only place I'm likely to drive it is to The Gathering and it'll make me miserable when I do. |
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Jul 14, 2017 18:32:23 GMT
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Went back in the thread to find the picture I remembered - looks like a tweak would be required on the front wing unless you've over tyred it? The tyres are 185/55/R15 on a 7" wide wheel, so basically a flush fit, which is what I was aiming for. I'm going to raise the suspension tomorrow and see how the world looks then, suspect there will be some tin snip/spinny disc action happening on that curve in on the front arch. |
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Found a few more 15" wheeled B310s most of the photos are on Photobucket annoyingly so will have to wait until I'm at a laptop to be shared, lot have wider arches. This is the most curious for me  Will try and find specs |
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Jul 16, 2017 16:04:55 GMT
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OKAY! so I went out to the garage and did a bit of fiddling to work out a way forwards. I raised the suspension half an inch or so to see what that would get me space wise at the top and if it would help with the turning. It didn't help much in either direction, but it did get me to re-examine my choices for tyres. I wanted to the Toyo Proxes T1Rs as they are apparently a great middle point between their R888 track day tyre and their normal road tyre, seeing as I'll only really be using this thing irregularly and hopefully at speed on tracks and things it made for a reasonable choice. In 15" the smallest tyre they do is 185/55, which is what is on there. So I headed to www.willtheyfit.com to see what difference in size I had on my hands between these and the 165/50. This raised an interesting question which I didn't immediately have the answer for, what was the width and offset of the new wheel. I thought I'd gone for 7", but checking back through my emails and doing a bit of in garage comparison it turns out I'd gone for 6.5" which is what the existing wheels are, the difference between the 2 being new wheels are +6 offset vs. +25 on the old wheels. This explains how the new wheels don't rub on the steering arm/balljoint thing where the old ones do. It also explains why the new wheels + larger tyres are causing so much of a problem  To make matters more interesting there is a 10mm spacer on the front, which I was hoping to get rid of with the new wheels, but there is a slight (thin) spigot ring problem... Here is the plan: Take old wheel's tyres (which haven't been used very much because ... well, you can read the last few pages for why), and swap them on to the new wheels. Offer up the wheels to the car with the spacer on as it stands at the moment and see where we are. If things are fine, jobs a goodun... if there are problems then I'll look at the spacer/offset and see if I can resolve it by dealing with that. Worst comes to the worst I still need wide arches, so I can do that and use the Toyos ... Cars are GREAT! ... *sigh*. |
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Jul 16, 2017 20:47:40 GMT
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A good way forwards buddy. What is the issue with spigot rings? You can get them super thin?
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v8ian
Posted a lot
Posts: 3,832
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It seems you have been playing similar games with your front suspenson as I have, a real point of frustration 🤔🤔 nicking a millimetre here and there, In my case, I have ended up pulling in the top of the kingpin and pushing out the bottom, not massive amounts, and probably got a touch too much camber, nicking a bit with spacers I kept reducing this by using 1mm washers reducing until I got the required clearances then made custom spacers to suit,
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Last Edit: Jul 17, 2017 8:21:00 GMT by v8ian
Atmo V8 Power . No slicks , No gas + No bits missing . Doing it in style.
Austin A35van, very different------- but still doing it in style, going to be a funmoble
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I have a place I can go to to get the bits rather than order online, so I can do that, thanks for the tip 
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