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Aug 14, 2016 19:54:59 GMT
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Can you not copy the whole suspension setup from the Racers in Japan? They seem to run a lot lower presumably without as many issues? Yeah I think that'll be my plan now. Although I was reading about suspension geometry earlier and would kind of like to get it right on my own terms (which is probably terrifying for everyone that has seen my fumblings so far). Raised the suspension a bit more earlier, took it out to see if it was an improvement... ended up being a country road blast as it seems cured of its thunking problems. Have to say the coil over set up with these top mounts is a bit noisier than previously. In other news :  |
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Last Edit: Aug 14, 2016 19:55:23 GMT by HoTWire
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qwerty
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,420
Club RR Member Number: 52
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That wheel looks really fantastic!
I've been looking at TS cup pictures and following my previous statement I'm not sure they actually do run that much lower than you. A lot of their lows seem to come from 13's and the arch extensions/chin splitter.
Tom
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Last Edit: Aug 15, 2016 7:01:32 GMT by qwerty
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Aug 19, 2016 12:56:15 GMT
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I have no idea what bad thing I did to the gods of modifying, but they hate me.
My new wheels arrived, I was bouncing around like a kid at Christmas. I unpacked one and wanted to put it straight on the rear.
Turns out the new center bore on the Ford axle is wider then the old center bore, which means the Lotus wheels that used to fit nicely now do not*. I can't describe to you how monumentally annoyed and depressed I am by this. I'm going to see if I can get the new wheels ground out to fit the current center bore ... I don't think it'll be done in time for The Gathering though and that makes me very sad.
*Please note I tried a different set of Lotus rims on the new axle and they did fit, so I'm guessing the centers of the new wheels have a smaller bore than my other Lotus rims. Which is a bit of a surprise as they were both fitted to the same car!
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Last Edit: Aug 19, 2016 12:58:16 GMT by HoTWire
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Siert
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,107
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Aug 19, 2016 13:11:56 GMT
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,960
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Aug 19, 2016 13:56:42 GMT
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Flap wheel on a drill will open them out easily.
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VIP
South East
Posts: 8,302
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Aug 19, 2016 14:00:21 GMT
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How much difference is the centrebore of the axle to the wheels? Plus how deep is the spigot on the wheels?
As above, a low-grit flap wheel on a drill will sort this out. It doesn't need to be precise as your wheels are presumably same PCB as axle and therefore lugcentric.
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Aug 19, 2016 15:19:17 GMT
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Fronts fit  |
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Aug 19, 2016 16:34:15 GMT
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Could you maybe get away with a 5mm slip on spacer just to clear the centre ? Untill after the gathering ??
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I'm not curse word, i just fell off my shoes
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Aug 19, 2016 17:00:33 GMT
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Could you maybe get away with a 5mm slip on spacer just to clear the centre ? Untill after the gathering ?? Good call, I tried that once I realised the front spacers meant the new wheels had no issues on the front. Sadly the spigot on the rear is too deep. However after being annoyed and sad I draw up a plan. They need tyres anyway, so I called up the garage where I got the work on my Volvo done and asked if they could trim down the center bores for me and do the tyres. They can indeed. So I dropped it up there just now (I have a wedding to go to tomorrow), and they can sort it out by the time I need the car back on Tuesday. I'm also getting a quote to get those door bottoms sorted at some point. Slowly moving forwards, I wish I could take a full step forward in the direction I want to go in though, rather than these stuttering half steps! |
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Can you not copy the whole suspension setup from the Racers in Japan? They seem to run a lot lower presumably without as many issues? Yeah I think that'll be my plan now. Although I was reading about suspension geometry earlier and would kind of like to get it right on my own terms (which is probably terrifying for everyone that has seen my fumblings so far). Raised the suspension a bit more earlier, took it out to see if it was an improvement... ended up being a country road blast as it seems cured of its thunking problems. Have to say the coil over set up with these top mounts is a bit noisier than previously. In other news : No need to reach out to Japan for suspension set ups.  Sectioned front struts with shorter stroke shock inserts will give you almost a 4" drop. Use the bump steer spacers to dealing geometry, some top mounts for camber and caster adjustments and viola. MKI Golf inserts are easiest option for sectioned struts and low rider status. Rears are easier as you can use mk1\2 escort coil overs and drop ride height and maintain travel and damping etc. My cousin will be at RRG with his 310 and its lowered and rides super nice so maybe we can have a little chat. |
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Aug 29, 2016 16:02:20 GMT
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Quick update for the day after The Gathering : New fuel filter (a job simple enough I could do it)    Then I re-routed the battery cable so it didn't rub on the sharp edge of the front floor.    Nice to have done a couple of easier things for a change. Still got to unpack the thing. Oh yeah and it overheated in traffic on the way to the show, so now I need to do a compression test to make sure the previous overheating hasn't done bad things to the head. Aren't cars fun!!! |
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Aug 30, 2016 14:43:59 GMT
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I did a compression test, all four cylinders report about 110psi 7.5 bar. As far as I can see this is a bit on the low side. However I cant see any milky oil either at dipstick or filler cap. So any ideas? Would be great to eliminate head gasket failure, or confirm it and get on with striping the head.
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Aug 30, 2016 14:51:19 GMT
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did you do it on W.O.T
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Last Edit: Aug 30, 2016 15:18:12 GMT by welshpug
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Aug 30, 2016 14:54:53 GMT
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I did it. Warmed up the engine, then used one of those compression test meters with a rubber tube you screw into the spark plug hole. (if it isn't clear engine is sr20det black top)
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JoshO
Part of things
Posts: 337
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Aug 30, 2016 15:00:20 GMT
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Performed with the engine at wide open throttle? Injectors disconnected and all the usual jazz?
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Aug 30, 2016 15:14:40 GMT
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How long did you turn it over for? With head gasket you would get one or 2 low ones rather than all 4 especially not if they are even..............
My usual method is unplug injectors, remove all spark plugs, disconnect coils, connect compression tester and position so I can see it from drivers seat, foot flat on throttle and turn over until the gauge stops rising. Rinse and repeat.
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1977 datsun 810 180b estate |
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Aug 30, 2016 15:40:43 GMT
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How long did you turn it over for? With head gasket you would get one or 2 low ones rather than all 4 especially not if they are even.............. My usual method is unplug injectors, remove all spark plugs, disconnect coils, connect compression tester and position so I can see it from drivers seat, foot flat on throttle and turn over until the gauge stops rising. Rinse and repeat. Same process for me plugs all out - coil/coil packs disconnected - throttle wedged wide open (sometimes it's easier to wedge rather than press and hold the throttle pedal and churn it over for a good few times until you get a peak reading If you are using a press and hold compression tester I've found them a bit hit an miss - better to get one that screws into the head and seals with an O ring - then you can do it solo However once I've done a dry test I put 5-10 mls of oil (small syringe is ideal for measuring and application) down the spark plug hole and repeat the test If there is a marked improvement in the wet test then it tells me that the rings are worn and then the lump needs to come out anyway in most cases |
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Aug 30, 2016 18:46:49 GMT
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Okay I didn't do it properly, but nearly! I did plugs out and disconnected packs but didn't disconnect the injectors or open the throttle. If I disconnect the injectors I'm guessing with the throttle down they will throw out fuel and I'll need to catch it? What difference does the throttle being wide open make to the piston and whether or not the cylinder head is sealed? My compression tester is a bit like this one :  So it is sealed properly. |
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Aug 30, 2016 18:51:53 GMT
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I wouldn't worry mate to much , sounds ok . I would check your fan switch with a multi meter . What rad do you have in there , and what fan ? If its running ok i would be tempted to leave it alone and not jump to the worse conclusion .
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bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,971
Club RR Member Number: 71
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Aug 30, 2016 19:07:55 GMT
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Okay I didn't do it properly, but nearly! You got 4 readings all fairly close to each other - that's a good start but IMO the values were a little low I did plugs out and disconnected packs but didn't disconnect the injectors or open the throttle. If I disconnect the injectors I'm guessing with the throttle down they will throw out fuel and I'll need to catch it? If you have fuel going in it may potentially make the test more like a wet rather than a dry - that's why disconnection the injector loom is a good plan What difference does the throttle being wide open make to the piston and whether or not the cylinder head is sealed? If the throttle butterfly is shut it leads to a lower result - it provides a restriction to the air flowing into the cylinder Four stroke cycle is Suck - Squeeze - Bang - Blow If you cover the intake of a running engine up does it carry on running or does it stop? What you are trying to measure is the amount of squeeze (compression) So no restriction (open throttle) gives the most accurate representation or test result My compression tester is a bit like this one : So it is sealed properly. OK those normally have a tube attachment with a tapered rubber bung on the end - they are really hard to get good readings from - much better to use the threaded ends and just wind em in by hand with a little tiny nip (by hand) |
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