jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Mar 29, 2024 16:24:26 GMT
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Last Edit: Mar 29, 2024 16:24:48 GMT by jamesd1972
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Mar 29, 2024 16:28:24 GMT
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Last Edit: Mar 29, 2024 16:30:03 GMT by redratbike
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madwrx
Part of things
Posts: 39
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Mar 29, 2024 17:58:43 GMT
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going to get expensive to run long term at £7.00 a gallon
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Mar 29, 2024 21:39:23 GMT
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Yes, I have one of those. If you look towards the end of the “why my Austin isn’t finished” thread you’ll find out about it.
It’s pretty good. Factor in a battery and trickle charger to use as a power supply.
You don’t need to use pump diesel, you can use red, kerosene, heating oil or paraffin in them, whatever you can pick up really.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Yes, I have one of those. If you look towards the end of the “why my Austin isn’t finished” thread you’ll find out about it. It’s pretty good. Factor in a battery and trickle charger to use as a power supply. You don’t need to use pump diesel, you can use red, kerosene, heating oil or paraffin in them, whatever you can pick up really. Thanks for the reply Glen, did try a search but didn’t come up with much. How many amps needed ? I have some chunky 18v computer power supply transformers kicking about so hoping that might work within the 12-24v bit nicely. on heating oil here so 60p litre ish will make a big difference over diesel as well. James
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
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They need about 10-12 amps to start up, as the glow plug is pretty hungry. However, once they’re running it drops down to about 1 amp.
The big issue is that they rely on having a power supply to run their cooling circuit when you power them down. If you run them off a transformer and you have a power cut, they will just melt.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Mar 30, 2024 17:28:02 GMT
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I have one in my workshop. If you don't have insulation don't expect miracles but it's welcome heat on a cold day. I don't use a lot of heating oil, 20 to 30 litres gets me through winter and that's with wifey having one in her craft room (it's the conservatory but it's her's now).
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Mar 30, 2024 17:54:40 GMT
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Noted on the start up / power cut situation, there is an old car battery kicking about somewhere so can see what charge it will hold. Thanks everyone will report back on progress. James
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Mar 30, 2024 21:09:35 GMT
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Here’s a link to my fitting one of these Chinese Diesel heaters in my timber garage I can honestly say they do work in keeping my garage warm, but my garage is very well insulated, apart from if it’s on full power the slight noise it makes soon get used to it and not noticeable after some time forum.retro-rides.org/thread/212380/building-timber-garage-workshop?page=7I have both the all in one and the separated heater, I’ve not fixed the all in one heater up (yet) I hope the link is of help to you
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I've got one in my freestanding single garage. It's single skinned brick with a flat roof and no insulation. When it's around zero outside it can daily easily get the garage up to 15 or so degrees in an hour or so. I bought a "triclicks" branded kit, which is mounted to a board screwed to the wall inside the garage. Combustion air intake and exhaust gas are routed out through the wall. On full chat it sounds like a small jet engine from the outside, inside it's like having a large fan on. Things I have changed so far: The standard silencers really do very little to silence anything and are literally just have a spring inside and a tiny sheet of some kind of silencing material. I drilled out the spot welds, stuffed with rockwool and rivetted back together. This made a marked improvement to the noise. The standard ribbed exhaust also doesn't help. After reading about on it, I swapped this for some spiral walled tube which is more like the legit weber/eberspacher hose. This cut noise a bit more. I bought an "afterburner" control unit for it. This is the best thing I have done as it gives you all kinds of control, including remote monitoring. From the afterburner stats I can see that I use on average about 240ml an hour (running pump diesel). David mcluckie has a lot of interesting stuff to watch on YouTube.
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I run one in my garage. I hacked an old PC power supply apart and soldered up the 12v rails to deliver the power. I have connected it to a battery, but this solution is easier for me, i don't need a battery and a charger hooked up all the time and it was free for me. Run it up an hour or so before i start and nicely just knocks the cold off in my double garage in the area I'm working in to make it comfortable
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1973 MK1 2600 Capri - Located in Texas 1976 3.0S Capri - X-Pack long term Project 1978 2.0S Capri 1984 Transit County MK2 4x4 LWB 2.5DI 1985 2.8i Special Capri (v8 5.0L) 1986 2.8i Special Capri 1987 280 Turbo Technics Capri 1993 1.8TD P100 - Beater, parts collector 2008 BMW 320i Touring - Daily
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Have bought one and will report back on progress! Thanks everyone for your helpful input. James
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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So I ended up with a Triclicks one as well as the reviews seemed ok and was mentioned in dispatches above. Busy working out how to fit to the wall. Had some ideal length dexion so have mocked together. Actually found my pot of dexion nuts and bolts and after a small re-shuffle had all one type - 1/2” bsc (or af as I would call it) rather than a mix with whitworth ones. Have started with the long side under the unit as the short side gives access to the side clamps. Having dwelt on it I’m going to swap this and use the long side sitting below the unit to give some protection for the exhaust as the holes in the feet match up with holes on the dexion to secure it. James
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Original version against revised version to protect exhaust. And revised revised version using another piece of dexion to give triangulation and protection. James
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
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Looking good. 👍
Pop the cover off and double check the tightness of all the electrical and fuel connections before you fire it up.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Mostly I overthink and over-plan stuff and get stressed working about the best options. Other times like this I get stuck in thinking I want this done it'll be OK. It wasn't the exhaust was too far from the wall and it poked out too much. Rethink time. At least with dexion I just undid it all ! James
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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So after drilling into the stone we got here #4. Fail, too close to the wall to open catches. So we are now on version # 5 by flipping the wall bracket. Which appears to be about there. Hole drilled for exhaust, thinking of sealing joints / gaps with silicone unless anybody thinks this is stupid... To be continued.James
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silicone no, heat resistant sealant definitely.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,352
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Silicon will be plenty heat resistant enough.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921
Club RR Member Number: 40
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Having looked it up it seems that std silicon is Ok up to 250c so on balance should work to seal the outside face. Got to set up the power supply and siphon some heating oil tomorrow so we can give it a go. Need to get some drying heat on the go as with no damp proof and it being so wet stuff is getting damp and damaged in there. James
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