13 inch 185/70/R13 Wheels are too thin and too big!

She will be going for an MOT Soon, the majority of those are no longer applicable to the car as i’ve said we’ve been worked throught the car well. The only thing it would fail on now is a Gearbox Leak on the rear main seal, probably the rear arches and exhaust emissions

I thought the same.

The wheel and tyre sizes are standard, so shouldn't be the problem, although tyre quality and condition might be.

Inspecting how the car was lowered would be my first step. I mentioned before that cut or heated springs could easily cause the fault.

As could badly worn bushes in the rear suspension arms as anyone who has driven a Cortina, Dolomite, Avenger, Mustang or anything else with a Satchell link suspension will attest to!

The car is basically the same as an Opel Manta, so decent components shouldn't be too hard to find.

First thing I'd be doing, is checking that the tyre pressures are about right (24 or 26psi from memory) and that the tyres fitted are not commercial tyres

After that, mot type check over to make sure all is in order, and get the wheel alignment checked.

As said above, the wheel judder will not be caused by tracking. More than likely a wheel out of balance

I’m confident it would pass but with Advisories i’m already aware of, i’d just like a Green sheet pass. My dads a mechanic and knows plenty of testers who’d check over it and let me know if it’s passable or not.

"As could badly worn bushes in the rear suspension arms as anyone who has driven a Cortina, Dolomite, Avenger, Mustang or anything else with a Satchell link suspension will attest to!"

Non of these are Satchel links.

It doesn't need an MOT. Just fix what's wrong with it and be happy.

I would still recommended spending £50 on an MOT, just to have an independent mechanic look it over. I will be doing this when my Elan is finished. Everything that is suspension, steering, transmission and electrical is new but there is no harm in having someone else giving it a once over.

There’s lots of sensible thoughts in this thread, I don’t want to repeat lots of things that have already been said, but there are a couple of things I think are worth saying.

Firstly, tyres. If this is a car you like and see yourself keeping, get a fresh matching set.

I’ve owned cars with old mismatched tyres (you mention different brands front to rear) and they really can be terrible when hard and old. The perfectly MOT legal tyres my Triumph Spitfire came with were so bad the car would go sideways at seemingly any speed with a good stab of throttle. I replaced them with some new budget Maxxis tyres and the transformation could not be bigger. Suddenly the engine felt like it had half the power as the car didn’t even dream of getting out of shape on the throttle.

Secondly, you say you’re young still, have you have much experience previously driving older cars? This might sound patronising, but they really don’t grip the road like new cars do. A friend of mine went from driving a modern Fiesta to a Mk1 mx5, a car renowned for its handling, and it took him some time to get used to the fact that you just don’t have the grip that a modern car has and that there’s no computers between you and the car. No electronic throttle to smooth out your right foots movements, no electronic stability control to kick in on a damp and slippery road.

I know you said your Dad had a similar car years ago, but rose tinted memories of the past are not always truthful. 20 years of driving more modern cars in between now and then, it’s easy to forget what old car can actually feel like!

?

Every description and diagram I've seen for a Satchell link consists of a pair of parallel arms, and another pair of angled ones that usually meet near the diff. Which is what all of those I mentioned do.