Rich
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 6,338 
Club RR Member Number: 160
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Land Rover are not overly reliable Err, the nearly-300,000 mile disco auto I used to own would disagree. I only swapped the autobox because I hated it and it only had one FTP in my ownership which was the spade connector coming off the stop solenoid which my own fault 😂 |
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Really like that, impractical petrol guzzling toy. Gets my vote!
Be good to see its size in direct comparison to a LR, L200 or similar
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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raumer
Part of things
Posts: 138
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I would put the tdi's as the exception to the Landrover reliability rule. But the other engine that would suit it would be the Cummins 6BT. Starting to become a more common fitment to Landrovers and can get a lot of power out of them.
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Mine: 1938 Scammell Pioneer R100, 1944 Scammell Pioneer SV2/S, 1959 Kraz 255b tractor unit, 1960 Unipower Industrial ballast tractor, 1960 88 Landrover Series 2 SWB, 1983 110 Landrover CSW
Look after:
1935 Scammell Rigid 6, 1951 Scammell Scarab, 1961 Landrover Prototype, 1985 Landrover 110
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
Member is Online
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TBH I would look at Japanese or German engines. Land Rover are not overly reliable and the engines are quite agricultural with not a lot of power. I was thinking 4.2TD Toyota, M606 Mercedes or even BMW M57. The only issue with any non standard engine that isn’t an “in period modification” will be your loss of MoT exemption. That and the potential to put off future purchasers that would have been hooked by its originality as it currently is. I’ve no idea how important either of those are to you. Is there an updated version of the Volvo lump you could use? |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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A landrover tdi would be my choice as well. The biggest problem will be the gearing though, for diesel to work the best it would need gearing up. I would look at a 300 TDI with 5-speed gearbox and 1.00 transfer box to get a decent roadspeed.
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Davey
Posted a lot
Resident Tyre Nerd.
Posts: 2,348
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How do the vents work?
Love seeing updates on this.
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K11 Micra x3 - Mk3 astra - Seat Marbella - Mk6 Escort estate - B5 Passat - Alfa 156 estate - E36 compact
Mk2 MR2 T-bar - E46 328i - Skoda Superb - Fiat seicento - 6n2 Polo - 6n polo 1.6 - Mk1 GS300
EU8 civic type S - MG ZT cdti - R56 MINI Cooper S - Audi A3 8p - Jaguar XF (X250) - FN2 Civic Type R - Mk2 2.0i Ford Focus - Mercedes W212 E250
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What about a low boost turbo on the petrol engine, add a distributor less ignition and it will do pretty much what any diesel will.
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What about a low boost turbo on the petrol engine, add a distributor less ignition and it will do pretty much what any diesel will. That makes sense as I'd imagine fitting something like a Toyota 4.2TD or similar would be a lot of work and possibly costly too. Personally, I'd keep the Volvo engine from a practicality and originality aspect but convert it to standalone EFI - a bit more power and torque, better MPG and good basis to add a turbo later. |
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Still learning...still spending...still breaking things!
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How do the vents work? Love seeing updates on this. Thanks. They slide up and down on a bolt to open and close them. Only really close them when parked up to avoid getting the bay wet. |
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My biggest issue with petrol is you can not submerge it without it conking out. Where as my old 3.0TD Landcruiser would sit in water up to its windscreen for 10 mins without issue whilst we strapped it up to pull it out.
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If you get rid of the distributor and fit a decent set of leads put the coil and electronics up high and fit a snorkel etc there is no reason a petrol engine won't do the same, plenty of V8 trials landrovers run something similar.
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Jan 22, 2023 10:28:03 GMT
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