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Feb 24, 2024 12:02:36 GMT
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A trick I learned from a friend of mine who was a lot older than me was to have different sets of completely different types of shoes and switch it up, from day to day. He said it helped with tiredness and pain, so I bought a set of sneakers and tried it. He was right, it makes a big difference. I always do this because wearing steels all day is crippling. I’ve exclusively moved from steel toes to composite ones anyway, and this alone makes a huge difference. I have one pair of trainer style shoes with toe but no midsole protection for general manual handling around the lab and a pair of lace-up boots with toe and midsole for use out on the railways etc. The composite midsole is much lighter and more flexible compared to a steel one.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,223
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Feb 24, 2024 23:53:23 GMT
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I’ve exclusively moved from steel toes to composite ones anyway, and this alone makes a huge difference. I have one pair of trainer style shoes with toe but no midsole protection for general manual handling around the lab and a pair of lace-up boots with toe and midsole for use out on the railways etc. The composite midsole is much lighter and more flexible compared to a steel one. Totally agree 👍 I noticed a big difference offshore when we moved away from steel caps/midsoles to composite ones. When your working 21 days on 12 hour shifts all spent on steel decks your feet soon start complaining. The other change that greatly improved comfort was a move away from rigger style slip on boots to lace up boots with a side zip, quick and easy to get on/off. I still wear a pair today for garden/garage/diy really comfortable 😎
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Feb 25, 2024 10:21:22 GMT
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I had pair of lace-up Dickie's boots in the mid 90s that had a back section which folded down and then velcro'd back into place. Easy to get on and off, and supremely comfortable. Unfortunately they wore out and I've never seen another pair since.
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Last Edit: Feb 25, 2024 10:21:54 GMT by mrbounce
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,223
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Feb 25, 2024 11:19:56 GMT
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I've been wearing these Jallatte JALARCHER For the last 10 years or so, my current pair are around 4 years old, can't fault them, lightweight, robust and comfortable 😎
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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Feb 25, 2024 13:08:39 GMT
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I put a rolled edge on my exhaust with stainless brake line. I guess std kunifer would also work if it's weldable.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Feb 25, 2024 14:13:30 GMT
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For years, I've always been given the cheapest steel toe boots available, usually £12 Portwests. I found putting a decent innersole in helped loads, then when I started at my current company, I got a decent pair of Dewalt boots, I still swapped the innersole but what a difference, going from £13 to £50 boots made. They used to get given Dr Martines steel work boots, which apparently were super comfy. Dan
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I put a rolled edge on my exhaust with stainless brake line. I guess std kunifer would also work if it's weldable. I thought about using brakeline, but I didnt have any in the diameter I wanted. But what I have is steel, so it should be weldable. Moving on to the supercharger. Its a vintage McCulloch, that started out as a VS57. Variable speed, with a drive pulley that works pretty much the same way as a DAF Variomatic. But at its 2nd rebuild, I had it modified to a fixed ratio. Because in a light car with a stickshift and a light flywheel the variable speed adjustment cant keep up with the rapidly changing engine RPM. In other words, it was running at the wrong speed, most of the time... Ths blower was on this engine before ( in my '28) , but It now has headers, different carbs ( from a 4BBL Holley to 2 IDF Webers), and AC which changes the offset of the pulley. So lets start with the pulley. I made it for the setup on the '28 out of a chunk of aluminum, and had it hard anodized.
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I got a regular 2 groove drive pulley, and cut the alternator groove off the pulley I made. I had to make a spacer to mate the 2. Assembled. And on the car.
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Now that the drive pulley was on the engine I could throw on a couple of belts ( wrong length, but it still gave me a pretty good idea). Things get really tight around the AC pump, the AC pump V-belt, and the lower radiator hose. So tight that I thought I'd better make a steel pipe to go from the water pump to the rad, to give it the sharp bend it needs to have, and to make sure it doesn't spring a leak if the V-belt would ever touch it at speed. Putting the blower back on the engine is next. I'll have to make new mounts. And also, I'll have to make a new pipe to go from the blower to the carbs. I'm thinking about putting a intercooler on it as well. It will make it run more efficient, I have one, and modifying it to work shouldn't be that much more work than a regular straight pipe.
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jimi
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,223
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That looks mean in the last picture 👍😎
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Black is not a colour ! .... Its the absence of colour
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That looks mean in the last picture 👍😎 Thanks
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mylittletony
Posted a lot
Posts: 2,420
Club RR Member Number: 84
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1932 Ford 5W Coupe.mylittletony
@mylittletony
Club Retro Rides Member 84
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I had kinda forgotten amongst all the body fabrication that this was going to get a bad ass engine too...
Is that intercooler going to get much air there? Bit of a tricky one as it's probably the most modern piece on the car. I can't picture the air flow over a 32, but could you 'hide' it above the engine in the dome of the bonnet and have a scoop to blow air down through it?
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The intercooler is going to be a compromise ( if I decide to use it).
It doesn't really fit the era of the rest of the build, so I don't want it to be too visible.
But its free (I already own it), and even from a basic plumbing point of view, it makes sense.
The enginebay temp will be higher than the regular outside air, so in Arizona that means its not exactly cool.
There wont be any ducting guiding the air in and out, so all it will get is a lot of turbulent air (mostly coming off the radiator).
My guess is, at best, it will act mostly as a heatsink.
And that's OK.
It will still be better than not having it at all ( probably...)
Not 100% sure on it, though.
I might still go for a simple tube setup...
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Cool supercharger. So when you say DAF Variomatic, is it like a CVT inside? For more supercharging at low RPM or the other way round? I’d love to see inside that thing if you ever have it open again.
Agree with the others, car is looking great btw!
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ahh yes, that is one rowdy looking machine!!!
Love the look of the blower, if I ever manage to get my hands on a 31 Coupe (dream car) I'd be tempted to pull the running gear from my F150 and have a blown 351 in and around the under bonnet area haha
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Cool supercharger. So when you say DAF Variomatic, is it like a CVT inside? For more supercharging at low RPM or the other way round? I’d love to see inside that thing if you ever have it open again. Agree with the others, car is looking great btw! All you need to know. www.vs57.com/
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Proton Jumbuck-deceased :-( 2005 Kia Sorento the parts hauling heap V8 Humber Hawk 1948 Standard12 pickup SOLD 1953 Pop build (wifey's BIVA build).
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Thanks guys. The problem with a centrifugal blower is that the boost is not linear like it is with a Roots blower. The curve is more progressive, climbing more rapidly as the RPM goes up. And also, the impeller needs to spin at a pretty high RPM to begin with. To get the RPM, it had a drive system that is made out of a set of big ball bearing spheres working in the same way as a planetary gear setup. To even the boost curve somewhat it read the manifold pressure, which was mostly RPM related, and made the driven pulley change diameter ( 2 halves that get closer or farther apart, depending on what it needs to be). But to be honest, it is all '50s technology, and at the time they had trouble even manufacturing the (if I remember correctly) 5 drive balls at accurately matching diameters and roundness. And I found that when going through the gears in a light/high power car, the variable speed just couldn't keep up. ( in my '28, the blower was hanging out the side, like it is in my '32, so I could see it move and adjust as I was driving). It makes a fantastic noise when it is working well, and plenty of power to annihilate the skinny crossply's on my '28. But it is kind of finicky. Specially on today's pump gas and a blow through Holley. This version , with Webers and without its variable speed, will hopefully be easier to live with... But I'm also planning to try my all aluminum Small Block Chevy race engine in it. And that one will just get a simple ( ...) system of 4 IDF Webers.
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Here is a pic of the Donovan ( the aluminum SBC) on the dyno. The carbs at the time were a 4 Weber DCNF setup (a set from a Citroen SM/ Maserati Merak + 1 to make 4), mated to a early Corvette Rochester injection intake that I modified for the Webers. That is a fun engine too. Its out of a outlaw sprintcar (small front engine roadsters that race on dirt ovals) that is detuned from some 800Hp on alcohol to just over 500Hp on gas (Petrol). Unbelievable torque from just over idle, with a flat powerband to when it runs out of steam. (the bottom end is save to higher RPM than what it can breathe in the current configuration). I ran that engine in my Capri with 4 IDA's, and I had to make a progressive 2 step carb linkage ( the first half of the throttle opening takes most of the pedal travel, the last half takes just the last bit of pedal that is left) to make the car more controllable coming out of corners...
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Feb 26, 2024 11:05:43 GMT
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Would a water charge cooler be an option with perhaps its radiator sliding in front of the main radiator?
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Feb 26, 2024 16:01:38 GMT
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Would a water charge cooler be an option with perhaps its radiator sliding in front of the main radiator? For efficiency, yes. But that would take it way too far from the original concept of the build (mid to late '70s). Earlier stuff is OK, but later stuff ( or tech) wouldn't have existed yet. Besides, the AC condenser already goes in front of the rad, so that space is taken. I really appreciate you guys' feedback on this. Because I'm still undecided if I'll do the intercooler or just a regular feed pipe ( which would be much more period correct). Edit. We havent talked about the intercooler being a restricion yet. Its off an Audi, so I'm guessing that would have been somewhere in the 2 litre / 2.2 litre range? This engine is a 327, so about 5.4 litre. The intercooler might be struggling to flow that much air. What do you guys think?
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