|
|
|
Jul 23, 2022 13:36:28 GMT
|
|
Ugh my wiring was perfect, the quality of the LED flasher relay was not. Put incandescents back in the rears and it works fine!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
DId I see any of you at The Festival of the Unexceptional? It didn't overheat! 
|
| |
Last Edit: Aug 1, 2022 10:22:43 GMT by halkyon
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Oh that is superb. Haven't seen a Landcrab in yonks and a good partner to your Minor. Keep up the good work.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2022 15:40:05 GMT
|
On a short holiday the crab developed an intermittent squeal at particular speeds. It sounds like it's coming from the clutch and it goes away when I apply pressure to the clutch pedal.
Remembering this is basically a giant pre-verto Mini clutch - release bearing? Linkage?
I'm also in the market for an aftermarket aluminium radiator!
(obligatory photo)
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Oct 25, 2022 17:57:23 GMT
|
|
I had a similar problem with my Minor Traveller (with MG Midget diaphragm clutch). I think it may be down to the release plate working loose against the fingers after a few years; to cure it (at least temporarily) on mine, I removed the gearbox side plug and applied a small quantity of lithium grease to each finger, using a small paintbrush, turning the engine over on the handle so that I could work it into each finger - a decent torch helps to see what you are doing!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
I had a similar problem with my Minor Traveller (with MG Midget diaphragm clutch). I think it may be down to the release plate working loose against the fingers after a few years; to cure it (at least temporarily) on mine, I removed the gearbox side plug and applied a small quantity of lithium grease to each finger, using a small paintbrush, turning the engine over on the handle so that I could work it into each finger - a decent torch helps to see what you are doing! Had a look at it and realised I'd just been an idiot and fit the clevis pin that joins the clutch cylinder rod and actuating arm upside-down so the split pin was resting on the top of the arm and wearing a groove into it (squeaky!).
Took it all apart and re-greased the release bearing and the fingers a little too, to be sure. Lovely and quiet now.
Thinking about how to enable my partner, who is a 5' 0" lady, to confidently drive it. Even with the tracking sorted it's bloody heavy to park. Power steering conversions are a new thing for me to learn about!
|
| |
Last Edit: Nov 2, 2022 19:14:10 GMT by halkyon
|
|
teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 2,125
|
|
|
|
Thinking about how to enable my partner, who is a 5' 0" lady, to confidently drive it. Even with the tracking sorted it's bloody heavy to park. Power steering conversions are a new thing for me to learn about! Nowadays people twirl their steering wheels around with the palm of one hand whilst the vehicle is stationary and it takes no effort at all. In the days when power steering wasn't ubiquitous the key was to have the vehicle moving even if only slightly when applying any lock, it takes a lot of the effort out of it. Try it, it could save you the effort of having to fit PAS. Love the crab by the way. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
tis outfit have already done one litesteer.com/project/austin-1800/though they seem to come in around the 2 grand mark. There are others out there, most use something like a Corsa C motor with a aftermarket controller (widely available on ebay), if you can make the space it's just a matter of securely mounting it and working out how to connect it into the upper and lower column. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Thinking about how to enable my partner, who is a 5' 0" lady, to confidently drive it. Even with the tracking sorted it's bloody heavy to park. Power steering conversions are a new thing for me to learn about! Nowadays people twirl their steering wheels around with the palm of one hand whilst the vehicle is stationary and it takes no effort at all. In the days when power steering wasn't ubiquitous the key was to have the vehicle moving even if only slightly when applying any lock, it takes a lot of the effort out of it. Try it, it could save you the effort of having to fit PAS. Love the crab by the way.
Aye I've been doing this for years and thought it would be reasonable with the tracking sorted, but it still wants to drive off the side of roundabouts, extremely strong self-centering!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Nov 30, 2022 22:05:13 GMT
|
|
Again on power steering.
I've found a hens tooth - an 1800/2200 power steering rack in good condition and a BMC/Leyland pump that looks similar to the originals. This being a new job/mod to me I've been learning about hydraulic PAS systems a little. I note my setup lacks a valve to prevent over-pressure from the pump at high RPM, and the original part is completely unobtainable as far as I can tell, so I'll need to find a substitute.
Wouldn't an adjustable valve be cool?! That way I could even turn it up or down depending on how wimpy we're feeling.
Even cooler - a solenoid-actuated bypass valve to turn it "off" completely for fun-mode? Does such a thing exist?!
|
| |
|
|
|
|
vulgalour
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 7,285
Club RR Member Number: 146
|
|
Nov 30, 2022 22:39:39 GMT
|
|
Stick a couple of extra psi than factory in the front tyres and see how you get on. I found it helps to run my 1.7 Princess with manual steering at 28-30psi up front instead of the factory figures both with supermarket car parks that can be a bit tight for the fwd BMC/BL turning circles, and with the propensity to understeer on some road cambers. It also helped reduce the tyre scrub I was getting sometimes on the front tyres. Didn't compromise the ride particularly either. Poor man's power steering. I found anything over 30psi started to make the ride feel a bit too firm and could make it feel a bit skittish up front.
The track rod ends seem to do a lot of work on these cars too, if there's any sign of them being tired at all, it's worth just replacing them and getting the tracking done. Even slightly tired track rod ends can make the steering feel vague and heavy, new ones are something of a revelation and they're often overlooked even on really tidy cars.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Most pumps have an internal pressure relief, relief pressure is bled back into the reservoir or feed port. This is not ideal for intensive use as the fluid heats up quickly, For motorsport use you can get external relief valves which can be returned to a external reservoir or even via a cooler.
The more modern pumps are also designed with a falling pressure so at higher RPM you get less pressure and better steering feel.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Most pumps have an internal pressure relief, relief pressure is bled back into the reservoir or feed port. This is not ideal for intensive use as the fluid heats up quickly, For motorsport use you can get external relief valves which can be returned to a external reservoir or even via a cooler. The more modern pumps are also designed with a falling pressure so at higher RPM you get less pressure and better steering feel. Ah, is that what the electronic "proportioning" valves do? I wonder how difficult it would be to set one of those up on a rotary switch to make it manually adjustable, given there is no ECU to tell it speed. |
| |
Last Edit: Dec 4, 2022 19:04:10 GMT by halkyon
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
If it's anything like the power steering systems on other Leyland cars like the SD1 and Triumph 2000 then you'll also need a little restrictor placed in the feed high pressure pipe to get the amount of assist right. It's a little lozenge that's crimped into the line.
If you don't have the original pipes then you can probably get close enough with an inch-long piece of rod with a small hole drilled through the length. The one I saw had a tapered hole drilled through it, which you might be able to replicate by drilling, say, a 6mm hole 1/3 of the way through a 10mm rod each side, then drilling through the middle with, say, a 2mm bit.
|
| |
|
|
