1991 Peugeot 205 track car project

I had an mi16 powered one of these, was much more fun than the 1.6 gti I had a few years previous.

Looks a great buy.

There were two different mi16 engine, made of different materials.

I recall the output was 160 in standard form but you have the itbs.

You won't find too much weight to save unless you stick lexan in for the glass. Rear seats are nothing but you'll save a bit taking the fronts out and sticking a bucket seat in.

I had 306 gti-6 front calipers but they were very heavy. Maybe worth researching them.

You could get some team dynamics 1.2 wheels, light and not too pricey.

It's been fairly aggressively lightweighted already and has (cracked) plastic windows (a solved problem I'm led to believe, there should be some on the way later) but this is the exact thing I'm after doing, it will be fun seeing how much can be saved with light wheels, tyres?, seats, calipers etc. Take the light option each time and see how light it ends up.

Hopefully as poised and nimble as a ballet shoe. 😁

have a look at the 205 they had on the living life fast channel on youtube, he got that set up and it runs strong with bodies, from memory i think he said it was around 230 bhp

I've bought some adapters and fitted porsche boxster 4 pot calipers to my golf. They are hugely lighter than stock. I've paired them with ferrodo ds200 or 250 pads and they work great.

My sparco seat is 7kgs vs 20 for the stock seat.

go on then, please tell. Id like a look if I ever get 5 minutes.



Is that poor drainage caused by the slightly jaunty angle that the engine ends up at having been wedged into the engine bay? It's really rammed in there.




That looks as if it will only drain down/out of the back of the head to me. Presumably the engine is meant to be flat with the oil draining front and back, so it only has half the drain capacity to sump. Prolonged high revs to pump a large volume of fluid up to the top, add a constant corner to pull the oil away from the pickup will result in it sucking on air. No bueno, Si boom.

How do they lunch themselves? do they just spin a bearing or two and are rebuildable or are they a superfuse instant boat anchor? (Of course its the latter, everyone would have said else!)

I also can't imagine that there are many gti-6 heads about now. I have no intention of being scared to use my track car it when done and the local track is castle coombe so it will see plenty of long fast corners.

And if we continue to assume that I am going to rag the off it because I want a track car to use then everyone seems to say that it will eventually go pop. With the pool of remaining good engines dwindling rapidly (I believe the 2 donors are 405 mi16 or bx gti which are both hens teeth cars now. I can't remember when I last saw one) it would probably be as well to put another similar but much more available engine in. 206gti 180's are still pretty numerous and surely something like that could be made to work well.


Thing is, if we're doing that it might be better to do it before blowing up the increasingly valuable old one. And before we make the car pretty with new paint and stuff. Plenty of food for thought there.

Kms is a dutch company, they do offer stand alone management.
They also build (motorsport) engines
www.vankronenburg.nl/

What he said ^^

Have a Google search for Mi16 oil surge and you'll find a tonne of threads!

The root cause of oil starvation in these engines is poorly designed oil drainage in the head and a large capacity for oil to accumulate there. It's compounded by high-mileage engines with reduced oil pressure, and conditions (i.e. track use) that they were never designed for.

You stand your best chance at reducing the risk by making sure your bearing clearances and oil pump are good (rebuild the engine) and installing a baffled sump, but it will always be lurking..

PS - whoever installed that cage didn't do it properly - while you're sorting the rust it'd be a good idea to get someone to fully weld those front footplates!

I've spoken to the previous owner a bit more and he's worked out that the cars been stood for 11 years. Nice.

Having cleaned it to a point where it's not genuinely horrible to touch I've started bashing holes. It's got a few crispy bits, mostly the drivers side and boot floor.





Getting the fuel tank out was a bit of a giggle. It looks sketchy as hell but was pretty solid. Getting it up into that position was less reassuring. I'll borrow the ramp to put it back in.

The tank needs to be out to address this mess








Happily the tank was bone dry and smelt clean. The narrative is the car was being rebuilt having just come back from the paint sprayers when the project was abandoned - this would add weight that story. And a tank full of air is so much nicer than a tank full of rancid stale fuel, as any fool know.

There is also the rot in the drivers footwell in the photo above, and lots of sundry little bits where there's localised rot. Lots of welding then.

I can't really weld, yet. I'm learning, sorta. In lockdown 1 last year I bought myself this little inverter welder





and have been doing a few things since. One patch on the wifes old merc. some 'art' for practice. Repaired an exhaust. ... Think that's about it.

So I'm learning and sharing my learning if you'll bear with me, this is not going to be norman quality restowork but learning to weld is one of the reasons I wanted a project so i'll do it, and it needs be do it again until it's done. learning innum - have a go and don't be afraid to make mistakes.

My first attempt was poor enough to cut out and bin. I removed the (remarkably stubborn) peugeot paint and underseal with a flap disk which thinned the good metal I was trying to join to. My repair patch was 'near enough' rather than 'pretty good' and didn't fit the hole that well all the way round. I was dissappointed by this so went and bought an new angry grinder



which has a disc release powered by a common 6mm hex key. Game. Changer. What times we live in.

The second attempt saw me take it a good bit slower, use a wire cup on angry grinder to remove all rather than some of the paint and make the patch fit the hole a whole lot better.













Tacked it in then just kept building up the tacks on top of/next to each other, moving the torch around and going slow to keep the heat down. I needed to add a little bit to the patch, which I ended up doing first, then did the big one.

The right hand side of the boot floor is pretty much toast so it's going to end up mostly patch. Good practice on an easily replaced part. Hopefully.

next I moved into the centre and made a patch that I dropped in over the top and welded in. The hydrate80 made it difficult to start the weld / strike the arc to start with but quickly burnt off so I guess that would count as weld thru?.







Thats up to date and I'm pleased with my work. It needs grinding back and smoothing down and such but I can honestly say that I have made up repair panels that fit and successfully stitched them into my car. I'm pleased with that.

Which is lucky, as it looks as if there's a good bit more of it to do.