All these were on the floor/bench needing various amounts of work.
So I started with the hinge box supports. One for each side to replace this.
Folded up some channel sections
They were assembled into this
And I lost a few days of photos at this point so I have no more to show of this work on the cowl.
The “good” guard is next in line. It had a few problems - typical rust in the bottom of the headlight pod. Water gets in there and just sits...Also a couple of places where there was enough damage that I decided to cut the pieces out and replace. So the lead comes out of the pod fixing.
Patch over the rust was removed
Made a repair piece as this area was so thin from previous repair attempts
Next the spot welds are drilled out to take the pod off
Repair pieces made and tacked in place
Next a change from the never ending battle with sheet metal. The headlight fixing nuts were mostly missing so for a bit of a change I decided to do some work with brass. These are very small nuts that are riveted to a ring welded to the inside of the pod. I didn’t have any chunks of brass big enough so had to melt some bits with the oxy and pour it into a piece of tube to get a small ingot that I could put in the lathe. These little things are the result. Nobody else will ever see them (which is probably a blessing as I would not win any prizes for my lathe work) but they were fun to make. As you can see they are a little more heavy duty than the original one in the middle.
Used one of Wray Schelin's ideas and made a flexible shape pattern from this pod to use as a guide to make one for the other side.
And then as the Americans would say, “I went ahead and made the other pod”
That is all fo now. Any comments and queries welcome. Cheers Garry
If restoring then as bstardchild says it's identity is unaffected. It's only affected if you start major mods away from std to it. In terms of a separate chassied car you can do pretty much anything to the body without affecting it's identity as long as you don't alter the chassis.
The last post finished with making a headlight pod. I should point out that I found a very good description of how to make it on one of the metal shaping forums, I don’t know which one and can’t find it again. But it was very helpful - the web is a fantastic resource. But I had to get the guard sorted out to mount the pod to, and that was a big worry. I really didn’t know how I was going to get it done. I made a start by removing the pod.
Then I started on the forward outer.
I realised the guard needed to be on the chassis so it could be lined up with the bonnet, and there was a small repair needed on the front of the chassis. So I changed tack and started working on the chassis. It was easy to leave the guard, it was scaring the hell out of me. So the engine and gearbox came out.
This tube that had been put in by a PO for a second exhaust had to come out and the crossmember put back to standard.
The repair to the front chassis (after sandblasting) Middle photo should be first, but I can’t make that happen...
Then cut out the extra tube.This will be repaired when I have the chassis on the rotisserie. There was an incredible amount of oily compacted dirt in the crossmember, about half an inch thick. It did a great job of preventing rust. The chassis is like new inside.
I realised that the front guard had to be built up as a part of the whole car, not in isolation.
This might be the place to answer a question. This is purely a hobby. I’m retired. I used to have a motorcycle shop and am learning this as I go. Right out of my comfort zone with this guard, that’s for sure. So once I realised I had to build the guard to suit the bonnet, door and the rest, I put the cowl back on the chassis. Also the left hand guard and the bonnet. All loose, so they could be adjusted to each other.
I was having problems with the bonnet. It didn’t come down into the same place consistently and I realised that wear in the hinges was the problem. So I worked out a way of repairing them by replacing the worn pivot pins with 8 mm stainless shaft. Which took ages to arrive, a perfect way of putting off work on the front guard. The door hinges were the next project. They are a pretty poor design. The pins rust into the hinge arm and so turn in the fairly thin sheet metal, soon wearing the holes oval and becoming loose. I drilled some nuts out to fit oversized pins and welded them to the hinge box. This is the arm with the new pin and nuts drilled to suit.
And the hinge box with nuts in position.
That’s all for now. Any comments and queries welcome. Cheers Garry
So I was doing all these little jobs ( that have to be done sometime) basically to avoid getting into the bad guard. I mean I had a valid excuse, waiting for the bits to fix the bonnet hinges, but really I was putting it in the too hard basket. I just didn’t know how to do it. I got bits formed that sort of laid over the top of the old stuff but I wasn’t happy with it. Wasn’t confident that it was going to work.
I made a series of templates
But it just wasn’t right. I couldn’t make the bits this way. The templates would only indicate that the shape was right after it was tacked together. They didn’t give any help when I was trying to shape the bits. I'd already made a flexible shape pattern but the same applied. When I was making small pieces of the puzzle it was no use. So I did other stuff. New hinge face panel to replace the right hand one. This was the side that had the crash damage, and it was a lot worse than it looks in this photo.
I was also having dramas with things just not lining up, hard to explain but stuff just didn’t sit right and I couldn’t see what was wrong. A lot of these curved bits are hard to get accurate measurements on.
I found a few things, like these spot welds that had come apart. This is the leading edge of the cowl, where it meets the hinge end of the bonnet. Drilled out failed welds.
And rosette welded.
Then I somehow found that the driver's side of the cowl was about 1/2 inch lower than the left hand side. I tried clamping the left hand side to the chassis and jacking the rhs up, but it’s a very strong structure, so that didn’t work. So I drilled out these spot welds ( above the steering column ) and it literally popped up to the right height. Things then lined up a lot better.
Then I was confident that the rear part of the guard was ok so I tacked it up.
But I wasn’t happy with the front bits.
So another little diversion. I needed quite a few oval washers. I couldn’t find them in this country ( pretty expensive from UK) so I made a little punch and die. The base is mild steel but I used a bit of 6 mm stainless, thinking it would be a bit harder, for the actual working parts. Just take a regular washer, put it over the centre pin, put the whole lot together in the press. Apply pressure and presto. Oval washer. Don’t know how long it would last but it made all I needed.
That’s it for now. Any comments or queries welcome. Cheers Garry