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Dec 26, 2020 23:04:39 GMT
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Bookmarked. You will have to make your own mind up about how it gets registered, but my honest advice, regardless of how you end up doing it, would be to invest the time and money in taking your C1 test. Not only will you open up the potential for keeping the original plated weight and spec, you’ll be guaranteed to learn something and end up a better driver for it. I’d be looking at keeping the potential for returning it to standard as a priority for my modifications if were doing it, there aren’t that many left and their values are steadily climbing. Whatever; I’ll be following your progress with interest. 100% agree with glenanderson on the C1 idea. It will open up a whole new world of possibilities, and will definitely improve your driving skills. Back when I did mine, for some unknown reason my work place didn’t book us in are local driving school. Oh no, instead they sent us to Swindon. Which meant going round and around the magic roundabout. If you don’t know what that is have a look on google. It’s actually easier to use now as they have put some raised bits in. Back when I did my test it was 7 roundabouts just painted on the ground. So when you first approached it just looked like a vast expanse of tarmac with cars going in random directions, great fun.
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1955 Austin A30 1981 Jawa Mustang 1990 Trabant 601 (Tommy) 1989 Trabant 601 2009 Jaguar XF 2012 Toyota AYGO 2018 Scomadi TL
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Dec 26, 2020 23:10:44 GMT
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austinpowers the Swindon roundabout looks very similar to the one at Greenstead in Colchester at the bottom of Clingoe Hill. Once you have done it a couple of times it's a piece of cake, but there are probably people living in Colchester who are still frightened of it! It is just common sense, but seems much more daunting than it actually is.
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Dec 26, 2020 23:47:22 GMT
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Years ago me and a neighbour worked near Hemel and lived up her in the land of Milk and Beans, used to race round the multi roundabout in Hemel in opposite directions to see who could get to our junction first, great fun.
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Needs a bigger hammer mate.......
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skinnylew
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 5,717
Club RR Member Number: 11
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Love a Unimog!! The local tree surgeon has a SWB green 406 with red bucket seats always makes me smile when i see it
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Oh yea Swindon magic roundabout is interesting, i only live one junction down the M4 from there. I think i could take my C1 test here in Chippenham but its not cheap and I'm not sure i have the patience to take a driving test these days.
My hope would be that having one of the only Mogs in the country that you could legally drive on a normal car licence would mean it would keep its value even without all the work kit on it. Focus the restoration more for offroad pleasure use with winches etc i think the right person would snap it up for normal Mog money if ever i decided to sell it. As stated values are increasing and there aren't that many 406 left really.
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Dec 28, 2020 11:07:37 GMT
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On my first visit to Swindon, job interview, I came across this abomination. It was early, nobody around, so I just drove straight across the lot. Ended up with the job which entailed living in a little country pub outside Swindon, Monday to Thursday (suffer, baby, suffer) and got to be a dab hand at the roundabout by the time they sent me to Thailand. I reckon it stood me in good stead for how they do "circles" here! And yes, slipngripross, I don't reckon you'd lose much (if anything) no matter which way you go.
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Last Edit: Dec 28, 2020 11:09:00 GMT by georgeb
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,357
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Dec 28, 2020 12:34:09 GMT
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Getting it down-plated will have a cost, in time, money and aggravation which you could offset against the time, money and ag of doing a test. Swings and roundabouts.
And yes, having it correctly and legally down-plated would open up the market to some buyers, but it would also close it to those who wouldn’t want the aggravation of getting it put back again.
You need to find out exactly what is required for the down-plate. It’s not as simple as unbolting unwanted kit until you get under 3500kg. When I was looking at Bedford MKs, all the down-plated ones had suspension and brake modifications which would have required reversing to get the weight back up against (and none of the ones that I chased up had retained the parts to do it). You also need to retain a “useable payload”, that is undefined but is generally regarded to be 500-1000kg, depending on the vehicle. You’d never get a 17ton wagon down rated to only have a one tonne payload for instance, but you might be lucky with a Mog at 500kg. Another consideration is, if you successfully get it reduced, is that you’ll forever be one good lunch away from being overweight.
Anyway, like I said before, you’re a good way off worrying about that for the moment. It all has to be roadworthy before the DVLA will allow any changes regardless, so you’ve plenty of time to decide.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Yea the thing that made the final decision for me was the value of all the parts i would remove, selling them is likely to mean that that Mog will owe me almost nothing meaning the truck will always be worth what i put back into it. From what ove found so far or been advised id have to aim for 3000KG and make sure i have a rear end that can't carry anything substantial. Obviously i need to take into account the weight of a full tank of fuel and two persons in the cab. I plan to have a flat bed but it will be filled up by the battery, jerry cans and a spare wheel mount so no room for anything else.
More poeple hold a car licence than truck, or have the land to be able to own an Ag registered truck so my thoughts are that it will increasee its market rather than decrease it. But yes first things first get it to drive haha.
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Dec 29, 2020 11:18:24 GMT
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The owning land thing is incorrect.
Minimum payload to be classed as a pickup from HMRC
I would think they have probably worked with the DVLA to come up with that figure.
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Dec 29, 2020 12:22:44 GMT
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My worry is this, If the truck is Ag registered it is for the purpose of work use on land, if I'm wandering around up Salisbury plains with 6 other trucks there is no way i could argue that I'm working, so thats why the only option is to run her under 3500kg. "agricultural motor vehicles which are used off the road and are not tractors for example, crop sprayers and combine harvesters" Any info on the ,gov website tends to point towards needing to be working or moving a short distance between land to drive a heavy vehicle on a car licence. www.gov.uk/guidance/agricultural-vehicle-licences-and-fuel
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,357
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Dec 29, 2020 13:30:54 GMT
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Which is why I’d register it as an LGV and run it on pump diesel. But then, it’s easy for me to be flippant, because I already have a license. There are various ways of approaching this, but loopholes that existed in the past have been closed (or just become obviously unworkable), and whichever one you choose would come with restrictions/hassle. At the end of the day, someone, somewhere upstairs at the DVLA/DVSA (or whatever they were called at the time) decided that they didn’t want people with car licenses driving anything over 3.5 tonnes back in 1997, and in the intervening 23 years they’ve made it harder and harder for any of the exceptions to continue. Currently, the paths of authority are difficult to navigate, as you are discovering. It’s because they would prefer you to just take your test. 🤣
Anyway, enough paperwork nonsense, have you got it going yet? 😃👍
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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dragon
Part of things
Posts: 153
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Dec 30, 2020 10:40:25 GMT
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We used them as run arounds in the Falklands a couple of years after the war. An absolute hoot to drive. So much different to the Land Rovers.
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Dec 30, 2020 18:25:14 GMT
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,357
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Dec 30, 2020 18:42:46 GMT
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Excellent. They really do like to rust, so getting a proper handle on sorting that out and getting it solid is a good move.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dec 31, 2020 10:59:39 GMT
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After popping up a post on a Mog page this morning some legend has pointed me to mogparts.de who stock pretty much everything you would need to restore one. They have everything I'm going to need so I'm going to have to weigh up shipping costs Vs travelling over when we are permitted to. I love Germany so any excuse for a visit.
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Dec 31, 2020 14:09:17 GMT
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downplating is just a form and a £28 fee from memory, I'd get it weighed to make sure its feasible, though personally I'd do the c1 or even C test.
my girlfriend did her car test in june 2019 then a C1 test in a 5t sprinter in September! (she had bought a lwb 511 in march ! )
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Dec 31, 2020 16:37:28 GMT
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Yea the plan is to stick it on a weigh bridge to see where she gets too. Only weighing 3400KG, then after we take all the kits off I reckon we will be well under 3000KG. Id say just the tipper bed and its frame have to be 300KG, Linkage will be close to 100KG for the whole setup then rear PTO etc as well.
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Dec 31, 2020 17:16:29 GMT
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Looks a great basis. I think you are going the right way, nobody is ever going to use something this old commercially in the future and with virtually everyone under 40 not having a C1 if you did want to sell it in 10 years or whatever the market will be much bigger.
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raumer
Part of things
Posts: 138
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If you fancy going single winch have a look at the Foers Ibex system. From memory winch is mounted in the middle, winch rope goes to the back of the chassis and round a modified snatch block then back along the chassis under the cab and out via rollers at the front.
Winching from the front is as per normal. To winch from the back you hook the winch rope on to a mount on the front and then pull the rear snatch block out and attach it to whatever you are winching. Gives you a 1 times pull from the front and a 2 times pull from the back without having to rethread the cable through the vehicle each time.
The Foers page will probably make a lot more sense!
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Mine: 1938 Scammell Pioneer R100, 1944 Scammell Pioneer SV2/S, 1959 Kraz 255b tractor unit, 1960 Unipower Industrial ballast tractor, 1960 88 Landrover Series 2 SWB, 1983 110 Landrover CSW
Look after: 1935 Scammell Rigid 6, 1951 Scammell Scarab, 1961 Landrover Prototype, 1985 Landrover 110
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