sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,392
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Pick up convertible with hardtop?
Or how abouy an anglia rear screen graft so the rear screen angles back? Might make it look like its moving when standing still🤔
I like to Nomad solution too, but would shorten the rear overhang by removing som length, almost like a vertical chop.
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Last Edit: Apr 4, 2021 11:07:22 GMT by sonus
Current 1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype 2004 TVR T350C 2017 BMW 340i
Previous BMW 325d E91LCI - sold Alfa Romeo GTV - sold Citroen AX GT - at the breakers Ford Puma 1.7 - sold Volvo V50 2.0d - sold MGB GT - wrecked by fire MG ZT 1.8T - sold VW E-golf Electric - sold Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,357
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Hmmm. I’m not sure that you’re going to be able to get the proportions right for a pickup regardless of how much you play with the original metal. The whole rear of the cab needs redesigning. At the very least, it wants a vertical rear window or, as others have said, raking the other way.
I’d be more inclined to hold out for an estate body, as I’ve always loved their proportions.
Whatever, I’m following your progress with interest, it’s a cool project. 😃👍
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Something like this. You might need to push the rear window back a bit further for the headroom. Another thought would be to get hold of a Herald coupe hardtop and keep the sail planes, but make the rear window vertical.
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Last Edit: Apr 4, 2021 15:29:30 GMT by horrido
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Something like this. You might need to push the rear window back a bit further for the headroom. Another thought would be to get hold of a Herald coupe hardtop and keep the sail planes, but make the rear window vertical. That is where my basic thinking is at the moment but using the standard roof, put the bulkhead just inside the B post, as there is plenty of room forward from there in a herald, use a vertical screen and use the C pillars just for looks, heres a mock up A bit like an El Camino. I've had the possibility to make it removable in the back of my mind. I'm not convinced I could rework the glass in to a different shape like the nomad. Unfortunately estate bodies just don't come up in the price range I can afford. Dan
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Last Edit: Apr 5, 2021 8:32:13 GMT by logicaluk
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The side glass is only flat. You can get that cut easily and cheaply.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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the bulkhead got dropped off for blasting this week, we shall see what state it comes back in.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Had a play with the roof again this weekend Its looking like this A balancing act between form and function. The roof pillars will need to be lengthened by a few inches, but 18 inches from the door apature seems to be the sweet spot. I also spent a lot of time trying to work out the best way to transition from original bodywork to inner pick up tub. Its tricky but i think i have a plan, some 30mmx 1mm box section coming off the peak of the fin, the tail gate is a whole can of worms and can't yet find a solution thats with in my capabilities that i actually like. Dan
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Apr 14, 2021 16:49:31 GMT
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Apr 15, 2021 12:28:49 GMT
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I've just come across this, I like the idea and the rust isn't as bad as I would have expected.
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1966 Ford Cortina GT 2018 Ford Fiesta ST
Full time engineer, part time waffler on Youtube - see Jim_Builds
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Apr 15, 2021 13:24:20 GMT
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That bulkhead doesn't look that bad at all. Pretty sure that I have taxed cars in worse condition! Keep on carrying on - I like this!
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Apr 16, 2021 11:09:34 GMT
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I'm off to pick up a bottle of argon/CO2 mix welding gas, £98 for a midi bottle full of gas. I ordered a mini spray gun which i had to collect from the post office yesterday, so i can spray the bulkhead with hydrate80 we shall see how it goes. Dan
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Last Edit: Apr 16, 2021 11:10:04 GMT by logicaluk
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,882
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Apr 16, 2021 11:59:09 GMT
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so i can spray the bulkhead with hydrate80 we shall see how it goes. Dan As the shell has had all of the rust blasted off of it I would consider spraying it with an epoxy primer rather than the Hydrate 80 - Having done a small test area on some rusty steel its pretty horrible if you need to remove it to do any welding as I found it just clogs and smears being a barrier coating. If treating rust in pits, sealing them up and coating over them it seems like decent enough stuff but I would not use it as a protective primer, others may have had different experience, but I would not spray a large clean panel in the stuff if I had a lot of work of to do on it.
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
Posts: 1,373
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Apr 16, 2021 17:35:55 GMT
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Thanks DS that sounds sensible, in which case ill repair it first then spray it with hydrate80 as the blaster didn't get all the tar like seam sealer out of the darker recesses of the bulkhead. so i can spray the bulkhead with hydrate80 we shall see how it goes. Dan As the shell has had all of the rust blasted off of it I would consider spraying it with an epoxy primer rather than the Hydrate 80 - Having done a small test area on some rusty steel its pretty horrible if you need to remove it to do any welding as I found it just clogs and smears being a barrier coating. If treating rust in pits, sealing them up and coating over them it seems like decent enough stuff but I would not use it as a protective primer, others may have had different experience, but I would not spray a large clean panel in the stuff if I had a lot of work of to do on it.
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Apr 16, 2021 19:25:24 GMT
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Definitely don't use hydrate 80 now its been blasted. Ideally a phosphoric wash would be good (many blasters do this before returning shells) but just get epoxy primer on it as soon as possible.
As Darkspeed says, the hydrate 80 makes welding a real pig and is only really for treating rust - you now have no rust as its been blasted off so it's the wrong stuff to use. A sandblasted finish is perfect for paint as its got such a grained surface the paint bonds to it exceptionally well.
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oilyt
Part of things
Posts: 174
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Apr 16, 2021 20:08:34 GMT
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Agree with the above, epoxy it now as you have the perfect key for it. but wear a mask when grinding back for welding repairs in as the dust can be nasty.speaking from experience here .
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Last Edit: Apr 16, 2021 20:36:46 GMT by oilyt
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ferny
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 986
Club RR Member Number: 13
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I've used Hydrate80 loads of times as a primer. I've normally always regretted it. 😂
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logicaluk
Posted a lot
Every days a school day round here
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ok where do you all get your epoxy primer from? Is it a 2 pack? High zinc? ahhhhh I thought I had this figured out.
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Darkspeed
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,882
Club RR Member Number: 39
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Last Edit: Apr 17, 2021 7:29:05 GMT by Darkspeed
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Express paints will ship epoxy primer to you, I'll post the links when I'm on my laptop.
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Apr 17, 2021 13:09:25 GMT
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