|
|
|
Aug 27, 2020 13:37:27 GMT
|
|
Just a bit of gaffer tape over the hole and some polish and it will be fine!
Can you get repair sections for these cars now?
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2020 15:14:25 GMT
|
looks like fun  with regard to the gearing, 2700@70 sounds quite busy, with a big engine like this it'd be happy at lower revs. My bmw is barely at 2k at 80mph and it still has enough oomph to progress without a downshift |
| |
|
|
teaboy
Posted a lot
Make tea, not war.
Posts: 2,125
|
|
Aug 27, 2020 15:27:59 GMT
|
Well that's not going to buff out!  Bumper off next, it's only 2 bolts... steel bolts, through an aluminium bumper... what could possibly go wrong That looks like it’s already had a ‘professional’ repair. |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2020 16:44:33 GMT
|
looks like fun with regard to the gearing, 2700@70 sounds quite busy, with a big engine like this it'd be happy at lower revs. My bmw is barely at 2k at 80mph and it still has enough oomph to progress without a downshift If I got my number right the graph I posted here forum.retro-rides.org/post/2618686 shows 1800/2100 for 5th/6th at 70. I think I have a solution for the electronics but want to get the car through it's MOT before I start removing vital parts and wiring in the arduino to test it.
homersimpson you can get arches but this has had a prang there and something has gone wrong with the repair I think. There was plenty of rubber sealant on the inside of the rust as I pushed my finger through it and big chunks of filler coming off with rust attached! The white in the pic is good metal. It is corroded all the way down where it joins the bumper but the body is reasonably flat for a section above that so I expect I will try and get a breaker to cut that section out for me and I'll weld it in. Chucking it down so not got to bumper yet except to add pen oil.
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2020 20:10:32 GMT
|
Bumper bolts came off no issue. Found a Bodywork bill for £900 in 2015. The lower edge from the dent/hole to the arches is completely shot, the other side is not much better, more destructive investigation tomorrow... Looking up  |
| |
Last Edit: Aug 27, 2020 20:15:38 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 27, 2020 21:35:51 GMT
|
That all looks similar - but a bit worse - than my 2004 XKR that I’m working through. Have a look at your sills, floors, rear chassis legs and subframe mount areas, and behind the front subframe / inner wing gap, all common rust areas on these. I’ve added photos of the areas I’ve tackled so far on mine, in my project thread: www.jaguarforum.com/showthread.php?t=121013If you develop a manual conversion kit or guide I’d be interested! |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Most of what I can see is pretty good, not had it on a lift yet. Sills and floor plates have been done already. Front subframe is a worry though - nothing visible but I know how difficult it is to see. I'll take a look at your thread. I think water has run down from the repair and got underneath the rubberised protection that was painted in there. Though it seems a prime spot for water to just sit Let you know on the manual conversion, if there is a demand I expect it to be from the later XKR's up to 06
EDIT - great write up thanks. Not so sure about the rust converter at £30 a can though!
|
| |
Last Edit: Aug 28, 2020 12:19:12 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2020 15:32:33 GMT
|
Less scary with it cut out, just need to source a bit of bodywork!
.. Hmm tried to add a pic and cloudflare told me I was blocked for doing that ....
|
| |
Last Edit: Aug 28, 2020 15:37:41 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2020 16:44:32 GMT
|
Thats the kind of rust I can only dream of, this is what I had to deal with:
Yes the wing has been split into two by rust :-(
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 28, 2020 16:56:03 GMT
|
Yea I look into your thread occasionally but it's a bit scary! Try again with the pic ![]() [/img] Nope not working !
... Ahh now it is  Hopefully I can get some bits chopped off a breaker |
| |
Last Edit: Aug 28, 2020 20:50:27 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
bstardchild
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,969
Club RR Member Number: 71
|
|
|
|
|
Looks to be a metric ton of plod still in the rest of it - you sure that isn't hiding similar
My view is if you are gonna get a breaker to cut out a section you may as well get it as big as you can and get rid of anything else hiding under plod
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Yep, agree there, This is the section I am after for both sides (LHS can be smaller) as jut beyond the diagonal cut there is a large amount of bubbling. - Not going to cut in case I end up making it and need a pattern. Also there is a line where the body curve is flat that runs from the wheel aft below where I have put the tape so a good place to weld.  |
| |
Last Edit: Aug 29, 2020 9:28:08 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2020 17:55:15 GMT
|
OK So grew some cojones and got the cutter out.  Also figured out what has happened - there was a repair to a dent under and fwd of the light area using a few mm of filler. The same area was hit again - if you look carefully you can see the crease 2/3rds up the join line. This then broke open the filler and delaminated it from the metal, allowing water behind and then wicking down under the factory sealant. Looks like it was left for a long while |
| |
Last Edit: Aug 29, 2020 17:56:53 GMT by wightfug
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
So (finally!) in for MOT today (lots of tape on the bodywork!), drove there all fine, emissions great everything on the previous MOT fail now all AOK... Tester drove it off the ramp.. ABS light came on, and stayed on... until 100m away from the MOT station at which point it went out 
Nothing helpful like a code set, as I had replaced the dodgy earth on the front right ABS so I thought that was it. Oh well out with the 'scope.. |
| |
|
|
jamesd1972
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 2,921 
Club RR Member Number: 40
|
|
|
|
|
Did the tester spin the wheels with the ignition on ? Some ABS systems give a fault light if one wheel gives a rogue or unexpected signal until car has travelled a certain distance with a normal signal to reset ?
James
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
So (finally!) in for MOT today I'd guess then that you no longer have a large section of the rear missing?? |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 7, 2020 21:44:16 GMT
|
|
Yep, just put the bumper back on, covered it with some ali composite roughly bent to shape and black tape. Not structural, no sharp edges!
That's a good point about the test, but I would not have thought so. Very experienced tester and I would have expected a code set. - But I am going to try it as I have a BCM code for something being on when the key is off but in the hole.
Pretty sure it did come on when stationary as well later (though it always comes on when module is communicating with the scan tool).
All resistances of sensors are the same measured at ABS plug, it did not set driving and using my diag tool I could record all 4 WSS outputting the same speed (though because it set stationary I am not expecting sensor issues). I do have a code from the BCM complaining about the lack of speed signal on the SCP network.
The solder joints in the module are a known point of failure and the only way I can think of to test that would be to monitor the ABS "heartbeat" on the CAN network - so much easier to pull the module and drill a big hole in it..
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 8, 2020 16:38:54 GMT
|
Module out (required actual removal of the whole unit, not coming off else. Open it up to see someone has been here before me and dry joint already soldered. Anyway after many attempts to get it to fault it finally did and left a code of Front right circuit, turned out to be a big chunk of rust INSIDE the ABS plug wire, as in had to dismantle the plug to get out. Anyway shiny new MOT  . Emissions were fine at 0.04% CO (max 0.20) and 40ppm HC (max 200). Wheel bearing and brakes all good too.
Just need to sort the big hole in her backside...
|
| |
|
|
|
|
|
Sept 8, 2020 21:02:59 GMT
|
It’s just trying to become more like a Fugitive |
| |
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
big set of gnarly tyres and a 10" lift...
|
| |
|
|
|
|
. Emissions were fine at 0.04% CO (max 0.20) and 40ppm HC (max 200). Wheel bearing and brakes all good too. 