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S-Type is the same bolt pattern as the Jag V8..., thinking use the S-type hydraulic clutch bearing and a lightweight flywheel with the ring gear pressed on to to it...
Do people put the jag V8 into Disco's or is that my imagination?
Is the Landy one made by Getrag then ?
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back to more mundane things - Caliper re-furb. The rubbers can be difficult to get in and using a similar tip I picked up from a Jag forum I used the lid of an Aerosol can cut town to about 20mm.The piston just slides nicely inside it.  Load the piston end of the rubber onto the plastic and the caliper end fits easily into the cylinder groove, slide the piston almost all the way in then pull out the plastic and the upper seal drops into it's groove. Took a minute.   |
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Last Edit: Aug 5, 2020 22:31:24 GMT by wightfug
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Intriguing! Seems like the S-Type gearbox is ideal then  earlier BMWs use a ZF-made version, and by the looks of things the S-Type does too. Later BMWs like the facelift 330d I pinched mine from use a Getrag-made version. Unsure of the differences, but they're both rock solid gearboxes. Very useful trick with the calipers they're the same as the XJ40 ones I'm rebuilding. I've done one side and you're right, the outer seal is a bit of a pain to get seated properly. Will try the aerosol lid on the other one |
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S-Type is the same bolt pattern as the Jag V8..., thinking use the S-type hydraulic clutch bearing and a lightweight flywheel with the ring gear pressed on to to it... Do people put the jag V8 into Disco's or is that my imagination? Is the Landy one made by Getrag then ? I am by no means an expert but I thought it was only the S-Type TDV6 (Diesel) manual gearbox that fitted the V8? |
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- Yes it's only the 2.7 Diesel S-type box that fits. The issue is apparently (going by historic posts) the gearing and possibly having to change the rear diff, a Quaife LSD has been used but that of course gets expensive. I would need to find either an alternative diff or if the BMW box is closer then despite needing an adapter plate it could end up being a better solution. Need to do some calculations...
For the smaller rear calipers it's a bit of water pipe!
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Last Edit: Aug 6, 2020 16:48:38 GMT by wightfug
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Changing diff ratios on the Jag IRS in XKs is no big problem. It's the same bigger diff case as you get in XJ40s, X300s and X308s, but the diff centres will fit from the early type too (there may be some fettling to get the 2.88s to fit, but SimplyPerfromance did mine).
Shouldn't need a quaife diff either. Plenty of LSD options available for the Jag diffs from the factory. The earlier types as fitted to Series XJs and XJS' is a better design, but the later XJ40/X300 types work fine when in good nick (mine certainly did).
By the looks of things the S-Type 2.7 gearbox has comparable ratios, but a much better 1st gear. 1st on the BMW 'box is stupidly short (5.08:1), which means there's no legs to the gear and a big step from 1st to 2nd. Good for towing, but not much else. Compared to that the Jag's 4.68 1st is much nicer.
Don't see why you'd need to change the diff ratio though. The 6-speed is decently overdriven, so with the 3.58 diff I think you have you'll be turning 2600ish at 70mph. Not great for a diesel, but perfectly fine for a petrol. If that's an issue then there's 3.07 diffs for 2200ish and 2.88s for 2100rpm.
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Thanks, that is great information. The diff issue may have been influenced by the racing application! 70 at 2.5K to me seems perfect for everyday driving. Do you know what the stock rpm for 70 would be?
Edit
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Last Edit: Aug 7, 2020 21:09:08 GMT by wightfug
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I think I found the S-type gear ratios, 4.68 2.53 1.69 1.22 1.000 0.837 I put them into this rather excellent calculator www.blocklayer.com/rpm-gear.aspx , with the XK8 final diff of 3.06 and tyre diameter of 28" - saved results apx6u.app.goo.gl/b7Fz2600=70 in 5th if you are shifting at 3.5k it looks like this (if I have the numbers right!)  So that looks pretty good to me! |
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This is what I get with the XK8 ratios
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Last Edit: Aug 7, 2020 22:45:29 GMT by wightfug
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That is a cool calculator! Gear ratios look good to me definitely more evenly spaced out than the BMW ratios. |
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Something is wrong here, need to double check the inputs...
OK I see, I was thinking the S-Type had the same final ratio - the auto does 3.07 but the manual is 2.69 which explains why the gears look ok when the box is swapped.
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Last Edit: Aug 8, 2020 13:19:08 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 23, 2020 17:28:59 GMT
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Might have come up with a solution for the missing autobox electronics, it's all theoretical but it will be good if it works. Breaking out the Arduino and CAN interface next few days for some try out. Meanwhile something that was not flagged on the MOT but that I can see being an issue if it gets worse is the O/S main beam reflector has lost half it's Chrome. Used lamps sets are £200 and so far no luck finding just a reflector (real or can be made to fit) so I'm thinking chrome vinyl wrap or chrome paint over black gloss. - I did try with a metal film tape that I have- as it is a thin film of Ali it can be polished - it was "OK" but can do better I think.  |
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Last Edit: Aug 23, 2020 17:37:07 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 24, 2020 10:36:58 GMT
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Very interested to see how the rechroming goes. One of the issues MGFs have is over time the headlight bulbs discolour the chromed plastic of the reflectors and you end up with weedy headlights. New lights aren't too expensive, but the same thing will just happen again and finding good ones will only get harder.
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Aug 24, 2020 13:23:10 GMT
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Apparently there is no perfect solution other that a few hundred quids worth of kit to DIY or the same in pro service.
Someone has replaced them with Hella 90mm units hoping to get some more details on that as it is an upgrade as well. Alternatively an ebay breaker has one for daft-ish money. MOT is not until 7th so time to experiment..
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Aug 25, 2020 15:40:25 GMT
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Last Edit: Aug 25, 2020 15:41:14 GMT by wightfug
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Aug 26, 2020 12:26:27 GMT
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Burned the mains for 30 mins - no issues with the wrap - if anything the heat smoothed out more wrinkles !  Condensation is an issue in these light units and Jag issued a TSB to drill a 9mm hole in the side and add a bit o pipe. I did this to the reflector fix side but no difference to the condensation forming even as I burned the mains. I have seen a few other solutions involving silica pouches or cat litter (- appropriate), but I would rather ventilate than accumulate. I cut a 30mm hole in the clear top cover for bulb changing, it's tucked up under the bonnet but I uses silicone to stick on a patch of roofing membrane that (like Goretex etc) is breathable but water proof. Run it under a tap and nice and dry.  |
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Aug 26, 2020 13:53:31 GMT
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Intriguing on both fronts as these are issues with the MGF headlights...
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Aug 26, 2020 19:30:44 GMT
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Many moons ago I was responsible for developing a fix to this problem on a similar headlamp, the key is to place the lower air vent in a high presssure (but dry) area and the top one in a low pressure area, one thing to avoid is pulling air off the back of the radiator, in wet weather this contains a lot of moisture.
When stationary the heat from the lamps will induce some flow but if designed correctly they should clear much quicker when driving.
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Aug 27, 2020 10:23:52 GMT
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Right, since I have the time available it's time to delv into the unknown with the bodywork. Poor Kate has some crusty arches, rust at the bumper and a big knock on the rear to deal with. Me, I like oscilloscopes and diag machines, all this is not completely new but not done any visible bodywork before. I've read tons of @grumpynorthener info on paint, prep, filler etc. so hopefully it will not be a complete bodge job...
So far it's had a good coat of looking at..
  
I am guessing that the cars did not come from the factory with a few mm of filler so this has been fixed before, looking at the bubbling I think it has rusted under the filler. Time to pull out the inside where I can and take a look.
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Aug 27, 2020 13:10:56 GMT
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Well that's not going to buff out!  Bumper off next, it's only 2 bolts... steel bolts, through an aluminium bumper... what could possibly go wrong |
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