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That looks fairly terminal. Having seen the rest I would have said a good clean and polish (new bearings and rings) would have got you some mileage out of this. At least you have time to chill and reflect and decide your options.
It’s past it sell by though I would have said.
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sonus
Europe
Posts: 1,391
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Can’t give a post like that a thumbs up, but let the car be for some time and I am sure a better engine will turn up. I had almost the same fracture in my block, but even though many say it can not be welded properly I was told by my welding wizard that by using a welding rod/wire that has equal expansion rate as cast iron (stainless steel) it should hold together no problem. He has been welding for 40 years and only do high end jobs so hopefully he knows what he is talking about.  As you can see someone has tried to repair it once before, but not succeeded. Fingers crossed the new welding will hold up 😅 |
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Current
1968 TVR VIXEN S1 V8 Prototype
2004 TVR T350C
2017 BMW 340i
Previous
BMW 325d E91LCI - sold
Alfa Romeo GTV - sold
Citroen AX GT - at the breakers
Ford Puma 1.7 - sold
Volvo V50 2.0d - sold
MGB GT - wrecked by fire
MG ZT 1.8T - sold
VW E-golf Electric - sold
Mini Countryman 1.6D -sold
Land Rover Discovery TD5 - sold
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,950
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Personally I'd look for another block. I've had a lot of cast stuff welded and no matter how good the job looks it always seems to be 50/50 whether it'll be OK or not. For something incredibly rare it's worth a shot but although not common, Daimler V8s can be found with relative ease.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,330
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Personally I'd look for another block. I've had a lot of cast stuff welded and no matter how good the job looks it always seems to be 50/50 whether it'll be OK or not. For something incredibly rare it's worth a shot but although not common, Daimler V8s can be found with relative ease. This. ^^^ That block is, to all intents and purposes, fox-pictured. |
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Ouch. That's a nasty crack. The only thing I would be doing with that block is turning it into a coffee table.
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From the picture it looks like the crack is from the waterways to the outside of the block. If you look up cast iron repairs on the internet there are several firms who could repair it which would be cheaper than finding another block. Surelock is one and I am sure its worth sending a photo for a second opinion I suppose it depends on how rare the block is, but plenty of vintage cars have blocks repaired any my family have in the past. The picture is of a Riley block thens needs a bit of tlc. don't rush into a decision you will regret  |
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1936 Riley 9
1982 Moto Morini 350
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Sorry about the big picture
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1936 Riley 9
1982 Moto Morini 350
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The good thing to come out of this is that you have learned so much about the engine now that you know what to look for when you start viewing a replacement. Keep us all posted. It's a really interesting thread albeit saddening. Best wishes.
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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Thanks for the thoughts guys.  tigerfox, yes the crack is across the top of the water jacket. I had see that repair of iron castings is perfectly possible but, like some others in the thread have suggested, from what I read it's not a guaranteed fix. The question in my mind wasn't so much about whether it was possible to fix it, more whether it was worth fixing it when you take into account all of the other problem with the particular engine. My engine has a lot of damage, such as that caused by the debris in the oil and the water damage to the bores, the isn't necessarily going to be present in a replacement engine. So the most of buying a replacement could be offset against the reduced amount of parts and machine shop time I might need. Thankfully Daimler V8s aren't that rare yet., they're starting to get more expensive but they are out there. I can well imagine with older vintage cars the replacement parts are often just not an option. I've got my eye on a couple of potentials, but it will have to wait till this lockdown is over, and more importantly till I've got some money together! |
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I don’t have any experience with these engines, but over the years I’ve played with a few Ford Xflow engines. In my experience, everyone that is for sales has been recently bored out to 1700cc with BVH , bla bla bla. I’ve never bought any advertised as such, but every engine I have bought has been sha**ed. I think the only way I’d be buying one of these engines is if it’s already in bits so that the parts you know deteriorate can be checked. I’ve only seen 2 of these engines on here before and both are cracked. That’s a 100% record so far. I’d be trusting a cast repair before I trust anyone’s word.
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I don’t have any experience with these engines, but over the years I’ve played with a few Ford Xflow engines. In my experience, everyone that is for sales has been recently bored out to 1700cc with BVH , bla bla bla. I’ve never bought any advertised as such, but every engine I have bought has been sha**ed. I think the only way I’d be buying one of these engines is if it’s already in bits so that the parts you know deteriorate can be checked. I’ve only seen 2 of these engines on here before and both are cracked. That’s a 100% record so far. I’d be trusting a cast repair before I trust anyone’s word. Thats a very fair point, the other issue though is that no one is going to let you take one to bits to have a look before buying as it could turn at £900 core engine they could sell into a load of worthless scrap that no one would buy. You need to be lucky and find one thats in bits thats in servicable (or at least rebuildable condition).
The OP's engine could have just as easily been on e-bay for £900 before he stripped it.
It a really difficult situation to know what to do for the best.
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That’s my point. You could spend £900 and end up in exactly the same position. Minus £900. When you could just bite the bullet and repair what you have and know what you’ve got.
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I have seen a block with damage like that repaired Metal Stitched and was fine afterwards no idea how much it would cost but it is possible to be repaired.
Pity it's damaged but good job you found it.
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brc76
RR Helper
Posts: 1,108 
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for me the question is, for 900squid, could this be repaired / rebored / assembled? if it is even close to 900, or even 1500, I'd be considering rebuild as you then know what you have.
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,330
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Or you could sink £1-£2K into a reline, rebore, welded repair etc. and find it still overheats or leaks once it’s back together.
I’d definitely be looking for another block at the very least. That 99p one has got to be worth at least £100 as a gamble.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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goldnrust
West Midlands
Minimalist
Posts: 1,886
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The OP's engine could have just as easily been on e-bay for £900 before he stripped it. This is something I'm very aware of.  I'm very much between a rock and a hard place. There's no solution without its challenges and financial risks. If I can find an engine in bits that might be a good way forward, because I can see what I'd be buying. My heads can definitely be saved, and the crank and rods look perfectly serviceable. So I don't necessarily need a complete engine. There's an eBay seller who had a short block for sale, and obviously handily that means its easy enough to look at the condition of the bores. It says they've temporarily shut their eBay shop for the virus, so when the lockdown lifts, that might be worth an investigate. Right now I just gotta take a step back and have time to think and not rush into any decisions. |
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Good idea as you could not just go and get anything anyway.
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Paul Y
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,950
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Here is a little left field thought - well not, really but hear me out. You want a V8 to rumble about in - good choice. The engine you have is pretty much FUBAR and all replacements that are out there are very possibly in the same state of repair plus you have to spend £900 for the privilege of finding that out. You have already proved that you have great skills and are keen to learn new stuff. So... why not have another look at an engine swap? In fact why don't you buy this. www.cargurus.com/Cars/inventorylisting/viewDetailsFilterViewInventoryListing.action?zip=90120&distance=50000&entitySelectingHelper.selectedEntity=d618#listing=268546669This is a 2005 Chevy express van with a 6.0, 4l80e transmission and all the bits you need to swap into the Daimler. As it is a van you can load lots of goodies into the back of it to sell when you get it back to the UK - more LS engines? - plus once you have ripped the heart out you can sell the rest of it for scrap or part it out. Maple Salvage sell these so I am sure they would do a deal with you for the carcass. From what I can see, the LS is narrower that the Daimler so it will fit will a little massaging. You get modern tech, good power and reliable motoring. PLUS V8!!! and plenty of Turbo action of required... My view is that yes it is expensive short term but imagine how you would feel after shelling out the same sort of money to get the Daimler refurbed and it was still ducked? There are cheaper Vans out there, or indeed pickup trucks - you are looking for a driving vehicle to act as a donor. Before all the current madness kicked the world in the gentlemen arrangements I was looking at doing exactly this - buy a van, load the back with another 6 or so LS engines and have a free 6.0 for a future project. I love spending other peoples money as Grizz will attest... What ever you decide, love the build - keep going. P.  |
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i have had custom regrinds done on stock worn mini cams, i wonder if kent or piper could regrind your stock cam , maybe even with a little more lift or duration ?
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