Frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member
And I looked, and behold, a pale horse! And its rider's name was Death
Posts: 3,882
Club RR Member Number: 15
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Jul 23, 2020 12:10:16 GMT
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Just ran the tape over the seal and its about 64mm shaft diameter so its miles off unfortunately Is it possible to do a modern oil seal conversion. I despaired of the leaks from the leather Tracta joint seals and then someone just popped up here (it wasn't you was it?) and gave me the part number of the modern seal. |
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Tales of the Volcano Lair hereFrankenBug - Vulcan Power hereThe Frankenhealey here |
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Jul 23, 2020 12:22:30 GMT
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The land rover series 2.25 3mb one is I believe 63.5 inside diameter, I would buy a cheap britpart one for a couple of quid to mess around with then a decent one if it works.
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jpsmit
Posted a lot
Posts: 1,274
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Jul 23, 2020 13:39:26 GMT
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This is the one I adapted to my Viva GT - slant 4 - haven't run it yet but I do have the instructions from (I think) New Zealand somewhere.  |
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Jul 23, 2020 15:00:23 GMT
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Just ran the tape over the seal and its about 64mm shaft diameter so its miles off unfortunately Is it possible to do a modern oil seal conversion. I despaired of the leaks from the leather Tracta joint seals and then someone just popped up here (it wasn't you was it?) and gave me the part number of the modern seal. Yep that was me! its my job supplying/sourcing old Vauxhall/Bedford/Opel spares |
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Frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member
And I looked, and behold, a pale horse! And its rider's name was Death
Posts: 3,882
Club RR Member Number: 15
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Jul 23, 2020 15:06:04 GMT
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Is it possible to do a modern oil seal conversion. I despaired of the leaks from the leather Tracta joint seals and then someone just popped up here (it wasn't you was it?) and gave me the part number of the modern seal. Yep that was me! its my job supplying/sourcing old Vauxhall/Bedford/Opel spares Well you're a feekin' hero. No more arguing with HGV MOT pedants that leaking leather seals are not a fault but a feature  |
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Tales of the Volcano Lair hereFrankenBug - Vulcan Power hereThe Frankenhealey here |
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Tamber
Part of things
Shattered. Held together by spite and tape.
Posts: 338
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Jul 24, 2020 22:11:49 GMT
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Just ran the tape over the seal and its about 64mm shaft diameter so its miles off unfortunately Aw. Well, worth a try! Thanks anyway! The land rover series 2.25 3mb one is I believe 63.5 inside diameter, I would buy a cheap britpart one for a couple of quid to mess around with then a decent one if it works. Doesn't help so much when the crankshaft is ~76mm though, I'm afraid. What makes this irritatingly more difficult, is how so many parts are only listed by vehicle fitment and don't give/let me search by a dimension. So I have to try and find out what has roughly the right parts I need, then try and find out what dimensions they actually are. Surely it can't be that hard to add "ID: X mm" (or the imperial equivalent) to things? For the time being, though, truck progress is at a stop. (Though I have just got my new rope seals in today) Priority is packing everything up and preparing to move to a different unit. (More local, and cheaper than what I will be paying if I stay in the current one.) |
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Last Edit: Jul 24, 2020 22:20:30 GMT by Tamber
-< Welder. Allegedly a mechanic. Bodger of Things >-
* 1958? Bedford RL - Progress: Glacial.
* 1994 Skoda Favorit - It's baaaaaaaack!
* 2018 Herald Classic - Gone!
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Frankenhealey
Club Retro Rides Member
And I looked, and behold, a pale horse! And its rider's name was Death
Posts: 3,882
Club RR Member Number: 15
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Jul 25, 2020 18:42:55 GMT
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Thanks! Bravery/stupidity is a big part of it. The rest is just the "more luck than judgement" method. Got a chance to look at the truck the first time after saturday's shenanigans, and it turns out there's a bit more damage than was first apparent.  Broke the bumper mount off the towing eye/bumper mount/not-quite-a-dumb-iron-but-whatever.  Not the end of the world, I'll just weld it back on. Hoping it's cast steel, but it very well may be cast iron just to spite me. No matter, it'll get fixed. Just glad I hadn't put the front spots on yet, or I'd be replacing both of them! If it's any consolation, it's made a nice dent in the crane where it hit, so it dealt it back... I have a pair of these I think you can have. I'll check tomorrow. Found the other one if you still need them |
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Tales of the Volcano Lair hereFrankenBug - Vulcan Power hereThe Frankenhealey here |
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Tamber
Part of things
Shattered. Held together by spite and tape.
Posts: 338
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Aug 12, 2020 20:41:36 GMT
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Found the other one if you still need them Belatedly! Thanks for offering, but I think I'll stick with the ones I have. If nothing else, the welded one has a story to it! As far as progress on the truck goes: None. Nothing. Nada. Zilch. Still in discussions with an estate agent over renting a new unit.  This has been ongoing -- slowly -- since the second to last week of July, when I told them that I'm due to be out of the current unit at the end of the 2nd week in August. (Might be going just a little quicker if I didn't have a day-job that prevents me from sitting in front of a computer eagerly awaiting the next email, but...) |
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-< Welder. Allegedly a mechanic. Bodger of Things >-
* 1958? Bedford RL - Progress: Glacial.
* 1994 Skoda Favorit - It's baaaaaaaack!
* 2018 Herald Classic - Gone!
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Tamber
Part of things
Shattered. Held together by spite and tape.
Posts: 338
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Sept 20, 2020 21:15:42 GMT
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Okay, so it's been a while since I've updated... Haven't particularly had a chance to come down from Panic Status 1, with having just getting set up in the new unit and getting an email from the agent saying that the landlord doesn't like me having my truck parked in the bay for that unit. Their chief complaints are that it sticks out too much (It's 5 feet out from the fence because the tenant next door has a bunch of curse word dumped in the back of the bay, that the agent has already said they'd been previously told to move.), and that they don't want me working on anything outside (Which is fair enough. Automotive guys tend to leave a mess everywhere... ) I've emailed back my rebuttals and whatnot on Thursday evening, but apparently the agent doesn't work Fridays so I won't know until tomorrow at the earliest. curse word joy, not. Apparently, the landlord would rather the industrial estate look like the outdoor equivalent of an ikea catalogue kitchen, rather than actually ... having things in it. We shall see how that goes, but I do not have high hopes for a reasonable response. Anyway, continuing onwards... Since starting to get set up... I've given the bores another good honing out. No. 4 still isn't going to clean up without a lot more work that I'm not going to put into it at this time; and there's still a hint of a ridge at the top of the other cylinders, but only the slightest hint. I started on knocking the cam-bearings out. Or, rather, I knocked the first one out and then realised I have nowhere near enough reach with the tool to do the rest; but I have a plan for continuing forward. It remains all under control. I've put the new rope rear main seals in, and curse word me it got tight.  Disassembled it all a few times, checking things, threatened it with hammers, left for the night in disgust. Some further research online has suggested that this is normal for graphited rope seals, whereas it would be a very bad sign on the older asbestos rope seals; and that the engine should free off when running in. ...Still seems dodgy to me, but once the initial "oh my god, this is siezed" level of initial tightness is overcome, I can rotate the crank smoothly, albeit with noticeable drag. I do recall seeing -- in an ooooold issue of Commercial Motor, iirc, as well as online -- mention of a jig that some garages used to set freshly-rebuilt engines up in to run them in with an electric motor. So clearly something was up. Anyway, forging on with what I can, I've checked ring end-gap for all the pistons.  Factory spec from 1958 is: Top compression ring: .012 - .023 2nd comp, oil rings: .007 - .021 | Cylinder | C1 | C2 | O1 | O2 | 1
| .024 | .023 | .021 | .018 | | 2 | .022 | .020 | .020 | .019 | | 3 | .023 | .020 | .021 | .019 | 4
| .024 | .022 | .023 | .022
| | 5 | .023
| .021
| .019 | .021 | | 6 | .027 | .019 | .019 | .020
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Not quite sure what's gone on with that top compression ring on No.6, and I might check it again just to see if I've goofed somewhere. While I was at it, I checked, with the bottom oil ring, clearance at the bottom of the bores too; and the worst one closed up by 1 thou, so I think I'll call it good on taper there. Assuming the top ring on no.6 isn't actually that much wider than the rest, I'm happy enough with those clearances. They're wider than the older manual specifies, but this is a higher compression engine and it certainly isn't enough extra to hurt it. Hell, it pulled strong enough with most of the rings stuck, and it should be better than that after the rebuild! I'll just class it as "boost ready" In a more ideal world, I'd probably have the block bored out to the next oversize and get a new set of pistons to match. But I'd rather get this engine built up this decade. Oh, yeah... Also found the circlips.  Tentative plan -- assuming the world doesn't come crashing down around me and I end up needing to move the truck again -- is to get the head up to Weir St for little a skim (as a treat) and see if they can't get me a correct head-gasket, during the week I've booked off from work. Anyway...  Party mode. |
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-< Welder. Allegedly a mechanic. Bodger of Things >-
* 1958? Bedford RL - Progress: Glacial.
* 1994 Skoda Favorit - It's baaaaaaaack!
* 2018 Herald Classic - Gone!
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Tamber
Part of things
Shattered. Held together by spite and tape.
Posts: 338
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Sept 20, 2020 21:26:40 GMT
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Also, part of the reason I've been so slow on this even when I am at the unit: My brother got a Mk2 Jetta. The wiring has been a little ... lovingly attended to; and the Weber carb was retrofitted with -- no joke -- cable-ties and sikaflex. I... may or may not have exploded the carb off the manifold trying to start it. There was -- hypothetically, yer 'onour -- a lot of sikaflex shrapnel, and a very impressive fireball.  Here he is, bolting down the proper adapter that turned out to be wrong anyway, because we were told by its previous owner -- a mate of his, who only bought the car to save it from scrap, anyway -- that it was a 34/36 progressive. Don't be fooled, I may have had the "dug out of the '80s car days' photo album" filter applied, but it was in fact more recent than that. It was not, in fact, a 34/36 progressive. Cue some creative engineering -- but more engineering than cable-ties and sikaflex -- to save the day, and give the next owner something to go WTF over. |
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Last Edit: Sept 20, 2020 21:27:50 GMT by Tamber
-< Welder. Allegedly a mechanic. Bodger of Things >-
* 1958? Bedford RL - Progress: Glacial.
* 1994 Skoda Favorit - It's baaaaaaaack!
* 2018 Herald Classic - Gone!
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Tamber
Part of things
Shattered. Held together by spite and tape.
Posts: 338
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Sept 22, 2020 22:13:15 GMT
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Re-checked that top ring on No.6: 25 thou.
...eh, I'll just send it like that. A little extra gap won't do it any harm.
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-< Welder. Allegedly a mechanic. Bodger of Things >-
* 1958? Bedford RL - Progress: Glacial.
* 1994 Skoda Favorit - It's baaaaaaaack!
* 2018 Herald Classic - Gone!
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Sept 23, 2020 15:38:48 GMT
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What class of weirdo wouldn't want a sodding great vintage yellow lorry at their yard?
Raises the decor level greatly that!
You could probably, and I'm not messing, get paid for advertising on it
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just work on it at nighttime... no worries  |
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1987 Supercharged BMW R1150 Citroen 2cv Hillclimb Monster
1995 Renault Master Mk1 Race Transporter
1994 Mazda MX5 Mk1 / NA Road Going Class Hillclimber
1991 UMM Alter II Crew Cab OM606 SuperTurbo Diesel MegaUMM Overlander
1992 UMM Alter II Station Wagon
1980 UMM Cournil - survivor - resto project
1979 Lomax 224
2014 VW T5.1 Transporter Kombi Highline
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Tamber
Part of things
Shattered. Held together by spite and tape.
Posts: 338
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 Anyone who said hell might freeze over before I get this truck done, might be right!  Wow. What a year. I would have preferred to have gotten more done on this beast since moving it here in ...whenever I moved it. September-ish? Work's been flat-out, though; and I've had no opportunity to book time off because one of my co-workers decided to go on a camper holiday to Wales in the middle of a pandemic, rammed his quad-bike into a tree, and broke his hand quite badly; which basically left us with no real slack capacity. (He did return mid-December, and is well on the way to mended; but is never going to be 100% for a very long time, if ever. He has refused to even look at the trailer with the quad-bike in, and it is shoved right down the yard in disgrace. ) Anyway: constant 50+ hour weeks of violently-variable work, and the stress of ... *gesticulates at everything else* left me not wanting to deal with anything much at all. In the meantime, I've had to do repair work on the car, including new front struts (50% done) and investigate the other clunk/variable-geometry suspension (10% done because it's bloody cold out!) before I can throw it through MOT hopefully early in the new year. So I headed down to the unit yesterday, and did the first work on the truck in months; basically since I shoved it into the unit, which was a two day ordeal. I didn't film the first half, which is probably for the best, but here's the second half: (made the mistake of not completely obliterating the music in the background, because it was pretty quiet; apparently it wasn't quiet enough, so it's been hammered with content-ID claims. (It's processing on trying to mute those segments, so we'll see how that goes.) Anyway, work yesterday started with pulling the camshaft back out to fit the front plate & gasket. On refitting the cam, and going to fit the crank gear, I made the delightful discovery that the crank was apparently locked up solid. ...yeah, it's that rear rope seal again. Slackened off the rear main cap and she turns, so I've re-oiled the seal and it's not quite so bad now. I think it really needs to run in, and then it'll be fine. That's what I keep telling myself, anyway. Grand sum of progress today:  I'll trim that gasket paper down later, I promise. Rear main cap has been left slightly loose so that I can turn the crank a bit easier for the time being; I'll torque it back up once I'm done having to spin it over by hand to put pistons in and whatnot. Pistons are all prepped, still sat where I left 'em after checking rings. Head came back from the machine-shop, pretty shortly after I dropped it off; can't remember if I mentioned, but they had to skim 8thou to bring it level again. I'll re-CC the chambers once I've got the valves back in, and work out what the CR is now. If it ever runs again after I've had it this far apart, through two workshop moves, it should be pretty sprightly! It was already damn good with 80% of the rings stuck, down a hole completely, and that's even before the compression got bumped!  It'll get done, I swear... |
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-< Welder. Allegedly a mechanic. Bodger of Things >-
* 1958? Bedford RL - Progress: Glacial.
* 1994 Skoda Favorit - It's baaaaaaaack!
* 2018 Herald Classic - Gone!
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Tamber
Part of things
Shattered. Held together by spite and tape.
Posts: 338
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Also, "glacial" isn't bloody wrong in this weather!
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-< Welder. Allegedly a mechanic. Bodger of Things >-
* 1958? Bedford RL - Progress: Glacial.
* 1994 Skoda Favorit - It's baaaaaaaack!
* 2018 Herald Classic - Gone!
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glenanderson
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 4,353
Club RR Member Number: 64
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Good to hear that you’re still with us. 😃👍
I know the feeling with being swamped with stuff and lack of mojo - but you’re still making progress, no matter how glacial.
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My worst worry about dying is my wife selling my stuff for what I told her it cost...
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Dec 31, 2020 12:58:20 GMT
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Glad to see you're still plodding along. Having the right place to work is such a big factor in how well things progress. Will all be a lot nicer in the spring!
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Dec 31, 2020 21:33:47 GMT
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Jeez. You're determined.
Might have been quicker to winch the workshop over the truck though.
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Kron
Part of things
Posts: 260 
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Dec 31, 2020 22:59:22 GMT
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That's some determination right there. Impressive.
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Dec 31, 2020 23:06:17 GMT
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Love this project, but watching that video I kept expecting a running commentary from AVE to start any moment! |
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Last Edit: Dec 31, 2020 23:11:43 GMT by carat 3.6
1988 Mercedes w124 superturbo diesel 508hp
1996 Mercedes s124 e300 diesel wagon
1990 BMW E30 V8 M60 powered!
1999 BMW E46 323ci project car
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Not the end of the world, I'll just weld it back on. Hoping it's cast steel, but it very well may be cast iron just to spite me. No matter, it'll get fixed. Just glad I hadn't put the front spots on yet, or I'd be replacing both of them!
This has been ongoing -- slowly -- since the second to last week of July, when I told them that I'm due to be out of the current unit at the end of the 2nd week in August. (Might be going just a little quicker if I didn't have a day-job that prevents me from sitting in front of a computer eagerly awaiting the next email, but...)
Disassembled it all a few times, checking things, threatened it with hammers, left for the night in disgust. Some further research online has suggested that this is normal for graphited rope seals, whereas it would be a very bad sign on the older asbestos rope seals; and that the engine should free off when running in.
