cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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Right then... Axle = Done (ish) I should have added new U bolts but, for now/ test purposes Its got the old ones on. I tightened them down a bit less than full spec in case this snapped them. Plus i need to trim them down. Brakes = Done , just need testing. Timing..... I'm looking into this now. I tried to turn it over the other day and it turned but wouldnt fire. The fuel hadnt got to the filter yet and the battery probably needs a good charge. After doing the Escorts Tappets, I checked the cambelt to see if its all lined up properly. All looks good so far. Here is the haynes pointing out TDC as the first mark.  Here is my pulley at TDC  Here is my top cam pulley marking at TDC (i have the Thermostat housing in the way so i can just get my phone in here)  Here is my Rotor arm pointing at HT lead one, going to Plug/cylinder 1  I'm thinking about being naughty and ordering a £40 timing light (sounds sad but having no at all untill i don't know when , I shouldnt be ) buy accuspark which has the digital readout. I can then follow this guys video I think... At the moment my confusion lyes in... what prodecure should I be doing here to check everything in the right way? I already know the Belt is lined up but, with the electronic ignition from a different Car how do i know what timing mark to use??Also, should I alter the carb settings at this point? I think the Auto choke is well off. When you take off the K&N lid, the flaps are pointing up. If you try and move them they only move a little and don't close. I no nothing, but this isnt right, right? I feel the Engien maybe has a little problem and I don't want to send it right out of wack by messing with everything at once but, I'd love to know it is all sound so once its right I don't have it cutting out at lights and not starting etc. To my mind I bet if i splashed out on a new Carb and set that up this would work but at £250 etc I just can't do that. |
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If you haven't messed with the timing I doubt it will be that far out, be worth pulling the rotor arm off and cleaning the moisture plate/cover and the inside of the cap, looks like there a lot of rubbish in there which the high voltage side loves when its damp, no idea what carb you have but I would expect some resistance on the flaps, on a lot of them you have to put the throttle to the floor before starting to set the choke flap in place
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If its the DGAV with an auto choke the choke flaps should be shut when the engine is cold, they were never particularly reliable though. (unless you have had the ignition on for a long time because many of them also had a secondary electric heating element which opened the choke).
If it ran before and you haven't touched anything I would leave the ignition timing for now, the best way to set it up once the car is running is to keep advancing it until the engine begins to make a light rattle known as pinging or pre-ignition usually on a steep hill around 2 or 3000 rpm this is when the fuel air charge ignites too early and if left like this for a long time it will generate excess heat and damage the piston, when you hear this back the timing off until it disappears.
If you just want a basic timing light pm me your address and I will pop one in the post, I have several people have given me over the years.
To start with I would as suggested above clean up or replace all the leads, dizzy cap and coil, then perhaps change the plugs, if the choke isn't working a couple of pumps on the throttle pedal before you try to start it should get it going.
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If you’ve got a timing light which lets you set the amount of advance you want (Accuspark):
Disconnect the vac advance (little pipe going to the dizzy)
Put a bit of tipex on the pointer and another bit on the tdc mark on the pulley.
Set the timing gun to the value you want (eg 10 degrees)
Hold the trigger/point the light at those marks.
When they align (by turning the dizzy), you’ve set the timing to the value on the gun (10 degrees)
Reconnect the vac advance
If using a cheaper timing light without the readout, its the same, except you put the 2nd tipex mark on the pulley to the value you want..
Personally, I wouldn’t touch the mixture screw on the carb...unless you REALLY REALLY have to. Without a gas analyser or being one of those oldskoolers who can set things by ear your won’t be able to easily verify what effect you are having.
When my Capri was on the 32/36 carb it look a few pumps of the throttle, then turn the key to get it to start. Even then, if it had been sitting a while it took a bit of cranking to get the fuel through... if it’s stalling at lights, u might just need to turn the idle speed up a bit...
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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Cheers for the info! I should buy a new timing gun. Looking in the Haynes the timing should be set to 4 degrees BTDC but, i don't know if this would change with the electronic ignition?
Re the Carb...
I know the previous owner had messed with the Carb and the only receipt was for a set of rebuild gaskets from memory. The main running problems I have are : Starting issues (horrendous when cold) , when it does fire it usually cuts out a lot at first and backfires! Sometime if it wont fire a lot of white smoke comes out of the K&N which i find slightly alarming. If you get to drive it it can be occasionally hesitant / possibly slight back fire and after a few small trips or start ups/ turning the car around etc... black spark plugs.
I assume the mixture or Choke must be set wrong at this point so, i did wonder if I should set it back to original etc from watching youtube videos on these carbs. Maybe I should tipex the choke and start here. I could always put it back and try this without the timing light.
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The Haynes values are a bit off. Most people running pintos seem to use between 8-12 degrees... Electronic ignition doesn’t make any difference. Mines set at 10.
Black plugs do suggest it’s running rich.. auto chokes get a bad rep, but personally I’ve not had any issue with them, it just takes quite a while for them to heat up and open the flaps fully (prob good 10 mins). If you are doing lots of short trips, it’s going to be on choke a lot of the time and not gonna help the plugs. Id give it a good long run and then see how it is...
I’ve been having similar issues since sorting the bike carbs in mine... lots of failed starts and it not having a proper run doesn’t help troubleshooting
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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Yeah i guess with the modern fuel etc it will change too. I really need to figure out where this is at before anything else. I like your Capri by the way, those slot mags looks great on it. Sounds a bit like the problems i'm having with you bike carbs are you going to swap back to the original carb?
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If your choke flaps are stuck open with a cold engine something is clearly wrong, I would start with trying to sort this out,i but before you do anything else check it is the right carb, because many twin choke webers use a similar base it was very common to swap carbs around at one time.
The auto choke in principle is a very simple system, you have a bi-metalic coil which is heated by the coolant and connected via a spring to the choke flaps, as the bi-metallic strip expands it opens the choke, there is a second linkage from the bi-metallic strip which increases the idle speed as well.
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ZXRob
Europe
Posts: 1,200 
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Sounds like it's running rich. Without a gas tester you will struggle. You can get a home setup pretty cheap search eBay for one. Remember that you need to set the carb up at operating temperature. I would leave the timing as is for now and concentrate on getting your mixture right.
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Yeah i guess with the modern fuel etc it will change too. I really need to figure out where this is at before anything else. I like your Capri by the way, those slot mags looks great on it. Sounds a bit like the problems i'm having with you bike carbs are you going to swap back to the original carb? Thanks man  Nah, I’m waaaaay too far down this route to go back now, haha. Luckily I’m pretty stubborn... I have had it running the past couple of days pretty well! |
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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This Is the travel on the choke. Blink and you'll miss it. I'm guessing this should be closed. (Car cold hasnt been started in 2 months) I'm also thinking The choke flaps are the wrong way round from all the videos on the Weber 32/36 In one position...  In its other position  I couldnt mess with it as it would mean finding a tiny spanner or removing the Auto Choke water pipe.  This is the Carb number. I think when I looked it up before its off a Granada . Also, i'm wondering if it could have the wrong Idle jets in because of this,  |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,305
Club RR Member Number: 170
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I would still check the timing as per sarkie83 's method. I've had enough cars where it has been out. You can also see if the dizzy is shot; That will cost you quite a bit of power and possibly even fuel economy if it is. The Haynes will say what to rev it up to so as to check the 'all in' figure, or Sarkie may advise. The carb does look like a likely culprit. An AFR meter or a friendly MOT station could advise on how rich it is. Going from what you've said, it's been messed around with before. Can't you 'reset' the screws in these carbs like you can other cars to have a baseline to work from? I know SUs make it relatively easy, but I'm wondering about this ; I know Beetles had baseline settings with their Solex carbs. |
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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I would still check the timing as per sarkie83 's method. I've had enough cars where it has been out. You can also see if the dizzy is shot; That will cost you quite a bit of power and possibly even fuel economy if it is. The Haynes will say what to rev it up to so as to check the 'all in' figure, or Sarkie may advise. The carb does look like a likely culprit. An AFR meter or a friendly MOT station could advise on how rich it is. Going from what you've said, it's been messed around with before. Can't you 'reset' the screws in these carbs like you can other cars to have a baseline to work from? I know SUs make it relatively easy, but I'm wondering about this ; I know Beetles had baseline settings with their Solex carbs. Thats what I was wondering. There is a video on youtube called "Weber Carb 32/36 tuning" where the guy mentioned resetting the mixture and idle screws from memory. I might try sort these choke flaps out first, charge the battery and see if it will fire. I'm just wondering if I need to take the top of the Carb off to turn around these choke flaps or if I can move the pipe out the way, maybe I can spin them round... Might have a go now... fairly bored today  |
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ChasR
RR Helper
motivation
Posts: 10,305
Club RR Member Number: 170
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With the way they are stuck it does look like something has failed or at the very least seized up.
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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Well I can't get to the bottom choke screw so I can't move it. I had a quick look inside the choke pull off to see if it was set wrong as i hear this can cause problems such as this. looks to be set fine from what I can see from the videos.  |
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Last Edit: May 5, 2020 17:27:03 GMT by cjhillman
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The choke assembly consists of the outer water chamber which abuts against a housing with a coiled bi-metalic strip, this connects to a shaft in the man choke assembly which goes through and links to the flaps and the idle kick up links. The part you sho above covers a diapheam which links to a rod which also modifies the choke setting dependant upon manifold vacuuum.with the cover shown above removed the part left in the body should move a small amount freely when gently pushed / pulled. If this Is Ok my guess is something in the linkage is corroded, you may be able to free it up by spraying penetrating oil down between the choke assembly and main housing then gently manipulating the flaps.
In all honesty though you might be better taking the carb off stripping it checking all the jets are correct cleaning it it up checking it for wear and re-building it.
It's certainly not the original carb, the 83 part of the part number means it was intended for a vehicle launched in 1983, the blanked off with a bolt fuel return is also a give away.
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dazcapri
North East
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Posts: 1,061
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I can't do a link cos I'm on my phone but check out a channel on you tube called ds3shooter,he's doing a pinto engine for his kit car that may be of interest to you.
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Mk3 Capri LS
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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So, I was going to remove the choke and with the Rocker Cover being in the way plus it being a pain to get to in the Car I thought I'd remove it...  Nice day so I thought I'd have a mess in the garden and watch someone rebuilding the same Carb on my laptop in case it helped.  Heres the old Biometric coil/spring  Anyway taking this off, moving the actuator that the biometric spring hooks into a bit then putting it back on seemed to fix it. Also moving the housing the other way round gave it some tension to stay shut. The problem with this seems to be the dome part of the housing is welded to the middle section which on a new part looks like it moves. Because of this I was only getting full tension by turning it upside down or point towards the sky. Tomorrow I might try and clean it up again and see if its better without oil. There is a plastic sleeve in the mechanism that seemed faily chewd up... i replaced this with a bit of plastic that was the same if not slightly thinner... don't know if it was this.   Heres a the insde.  Anyway... all was looking good ish... I tested it with boiling water and cold water which did make it open and close but, I wouldnt say it snapped shut and it seemed quite hesitent. Maybe thats how they are? This spring in here seemed fairly mucky and sluggish. I thought I'd get in there with my new found confidence but, after taking apart the choke mechanism and re lubeing it... It now seems even worse!! Now when I put it back together It doesnt snap back at al all.... pretty curse word off so I've left it till tomorrow now. If anyone has any pics of these mechanisms please let me know.   |
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cjhillman
Posted a lot
1979 Capri (Rolling Project) 1985 Escort mk3 (Daily)
Posts: 1,614
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Also on one video it mentioned testing the Carburettor Power Valve Diaphragm by pressing down on the power valve spring and putting a finger over the hole linked to it. I think it was supposed to stay in place and not spring back. This one did spring back but, i don't really know if thats a problem or anything to be concerned with. I forgot to mention I did split the Carb in half to check inside while I was at this point to check it over.
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Last Edit: May 7, 2020 8:36:00 GMT by cjhillman
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