1965 Mk2 Jaguar - progress goes "boink"

peteh1969 that looks like the ticket - hopefully I can source one closer to home.

Frankenhealey that is the trouble with t'internet - are they good "interesting" or interesting "interesting"

samta22 I guess that answers the question - I will give them a try.

I prefer to drain oil outside so any and all spillages can soak into the ground. Dirt floor garage is fine too of course.

Good to see you ended up with a Jag that you wanted .

As for the cartridge filter, we've all been there. Ensuring the seals have been wet with oil and then pushed fully home helps as well . A great choice of oil there!

As for the 123 dizzy and tuners, it is probably because they are not used to it; it surprises me how many people don't know about the 123 Ignition systems. If they are used to EFI then the Bluetooth 123 dizzy may be worth considering. The adjustments can all be done via a laptop or even from your phone.

As a worst case scenario, you could give him the dizzy with a stock advance curve in place.

If you have time - ask for a tour of the Museum.

and say hello to the Mrs' old horse for me

The engine was rebuilt about 600 miles ago and while it runs ok it tended to pink when you floored the throttle - so following Frankenhealey and samta22 's suggestions I booked it in with CCK Historic for a rolling road tune up. I took the Jag to work, did some work in the morning then set off for a 1.5 hour drive to CCK's premises near Uckfield in East Sussex. All went well, and I stopped for a top up of Shell Optimax so we don't run out on the rollers!

Found the place quite easily, despite it being in the middle of nowhere!

Here we are waiting to go in:



Daniel, who I had spoken to on the phone got me to sign the disclaimer and we agreed a rev limit of 4500 rpm as the engine is newly rebuilt.

It was driven into the workshop past some interesting cars:



and into the rolling road bay:



Strapped down and plumbed in:



I was ushered out for the initial run, which apparently showed it was seriously down on power.

Carbs were dismantled and bits carried back and forth to the machine shop, while I hung around admiring Julian Balme's Ford Falcon a Ferrari Dino and various other customers cars.

After a while I was invited to go and have a look at the private museum (I didn't take any pictures as I didn't think it was appropriate) but there were some interesting cars from a totally original Morris 10 through Lenham Midgets to a Volvo PV race car. Worth the trip in its own www.cckhistoric.com/museum/

After about 2 hours - I saw my car rolling past the door. The rolling road operator (Graham I think) handed me a sheet of paper with some numbers and a graph on it and pronounced that he had found plenty of power and it was now good!

Here's the evidence:



160BHP and 224.8lbft at 2330rpm.

I'm not sure whether that is good, bad or indifferent, but the drive home would reveal all!

Finally, ready for the journey home:



So, was it worth it?

Well it doesn't pink anymore, there is no hesitation in the middle of the rev range and it pulls like a train from idle - so definitely worth it!

The Internets says they had an optimistic 220bhp and 240lbs of torque when new. Which doesn't sound allot but back then that was supercar power. however, bhp is just a function of revs and torque, so your self inflicted rev limit halted the party kicking off.

You can clearly see bhp graph is still climbing at end of playtime (normal power graph will drop off) and can also see its still making 200 ish lbs of torque. Max bhp is made when torque is falling and at about 80% of max, so for you max bhp would be when torque drops to 180 ish

Short version, Rev it to 6000 when it's run in, I have zero doubt it will nudge 200 horse, which is awesome!

I'd check all the wiring between the alternator and battery first (particularly if it is still using the original dynamo wiring), charging a flat battery will have put a lot of load on the wiring and any weakness is likely to be highlighted.

Cheers kevins , I'll take a look at the connections in the alternator wiring - although it was completely rewired last year so the wiring itself ought to be ok.

I had noticed that the alternator light would come on when idling prior to the latest incident - it would go off with a blip of the throttle. Does this sound like a duff alternator or something else? (don't worry I will be checking the wiring!)