1972 Toyota CROWN MS67

so this is in for some exhaust works...

No real update on the car, but it is back home, as are all the others. And ofcoarse the new roof



Still have to sort out the work area, lights and electrics and the storage facilities but getting there...

Still working on this, slowly unfortunately...

Got some kilometers on it, to the temporary storage and back, and during that, I stopped for some fuel but that didn't go to well. Petrol over my shoes and pants so something wasn't breathing I tought so my attention went to the petrol tank and everything around it.

As i didn't find anything obvious at first glance and I want to redo the car completely eventually I decided to just pull the petrol tank out, have a closer look, refurbish, replace hoses and seals,...

So this happened this week... not the biggest job but still, is was stuck glued on the booth floor, hoses were difficult to get to, on bolt snapped, all that kind of stuff but...



Now do all I can do to it to make it as good as possible again and put it back...

I was cleaning up the petrol tank this saterday



and was treated to this



Now the tank looked to be in good nick on the inside from what i could see so was just going to clean up the outside and put it back. Now i have this... Good way to solve this is to braze is i think but that would leave me with the inside damaged of the heat I think...(?) so then I need to treat the inside aswell..(?)

I this right what I am assuming? Or will the inside be just fine afterwards? Or is there a cold way to fix this?

Thanks for watching and thinking along

If your tank is just bare metal from the inside as mine was, than any type of fix involving heat is not really a problem for the tank. It needs to be said that fuel vapours combust easily so that needs to be taken into account.

I did not want to weld or braze my tank as I did not feel comfortable and have no real welding skills. Also pinholes were the least of my troubles, although I had a few! I mostly had rust forming in the tank which kept clogging the filters preventing the car from running. So to address that once and for all I chose to coat the inner of my tank with the POR-15 tank sealing kit. It's a cleaner, prep, final coat set. It's not the cheapest out there (frost sells something similar and cheaper), but it was the one that inspired most confidence when reading up on the coating it leaves behind and the thickness of it. I did try and remove as much rust as I could by shaking pebbles around in the tank before starting the cleaning and coating process.

The por-15 stuff leaves behind a thick durable coating, that can fill pinholes like you've shown with ease. I covered them with tape so any coating could not seep out. I can now fill my tank with confidence and have no funny fuel smells anymore like I had before. It's very doable as well, but you need to account for the process to take a week. Forced drying may help but it is imperative that you work with clean and dry metal.It's been more than a year since I did this and the coating seems to last great judging by the coverage on the pinholes feeling the same as after initial curing.

You have v good written english. Thanks for posting this. Is that your RS200 too?

I used the Frost kit on my Morris Oxford tank.
Can't say how successful it is, as I've not put fuel in it yet.
But what I do know, if you spill it on the garage floor - it makes a right mess !!
Sloshing it around so it covers all the internal surfaces, with something as unwieldy as a fuel tank is pretty awkward.

Haha, I did find that out the hard way as well! The paving at the old house has some stain marks where I was quick to wipe it away, but could not get it out of the texture. In the shed I had a left over bit leak onto my workbench as a test. That went crazy solid and was so strong! Although as said, I used the POR-15 stuff. It's all similar for sure.

I have to say that with a pre thought out plan, I found that coating the inners of the tank was far easier than expected. No need to hold it in your hands the entire time. The sloshing around with pebbles was harder and heavier! Mine was a 60 litre tank.

During the first hour of curing I kept moving the tank from time to time as to prevent pooling of the coating during early stages of curing.

In my case, the coating was thick enough to fully fill the pinholes. Some even bulged a little on the outside. I sanded that back to just a little bump so I would not compromise how it sealed the hole around the edges. With paint over it, you'd have to look for them to even see.

If you are set on brazing, then that would be step one after ensuring the tank is fuel vapour free and safe to approach with a flame. But if the tank inner is not rusty, then I'd not see much need for the coating afterwards.