moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815 
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Although it looks nice, that dense mesh will hugely reduce the airflow capabilities through your filter. It will almost certainly have some negative effect. If I will be able to feel it by the seat of my pants - I'm not sure. I was originally thinking just a ram pipe and gauze for simplicity, but decided the protection of a filter was wise.
Alas a test drive is a way off yet. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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stealthstylz
Club Retro Rides Member
Posts: 14,961
Club RR Member Number: 174
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Easiest way to tell is to get the carb jetted to suit the air filter been on, then take the filter off and see if it goes lean (AFR meter or spark plug check). Do it at work all the time, quite surprising what happens with some filter brands/setups.
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melle
South West
It'll come out in the wash.
Posts: 2,011
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When I swapped the mesh and pot scourer "sports" filter on the Weber 28/36DCD in my Saab 96 for a paper filter in a standard housing modified to fit the carb (I hated the intake noise), I needed bigger primary idle and main jets; I expected I would need smaller jets.
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www.saabv4.com'70 Saab 96 V4 "The Devil's Own V4" '77 Saab 95 V4 van conversion project '88 Saab 900i 8V
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jun 20, 2020 20:08:57 GMT
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The good thing about this project, is I can flit between various things that need doing. I want to do paintwork over the summer, so the bodywork has to be done. The car still keeps giving surprises, this piece of cover sill was hidden under some filler. and took 20 seconds to remove, as there were no welds holding it on !!!!  The piece inside the back door was at least held on with a couple of gobs of weld. There was a bit of grot and a previous repair under the filler. It was easier to chop it all out as one, But the repair panel had to curve in all directions.  Shutlines needed a lot of work all over the place, all over the car. This one was down to me and the sill not fitting properly. Needed a slice cut out and re-welded - a work in progress here.  The top of the passenger door had huge gaps. Here is the first extra section going in.  The same door needed a small section of welding rod stitched onto the bottom  There were many other minor nips and tucks. But after many applications of filler I'm getting close.  It looks like there is a slop on here, but there really isn't, nothing more than 2mm I reckon. I'm definitely fed up of working in a mess, but my tools don't have dust extraction, so I've just got to make the mess and then clean up when I've done. Thanks for looking. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Norman
Part of things
Posts: 449
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Jun 20, 2020 21:33:08 GMT
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Great work, i am looking forward to doing to bodywork on my Vogue. At that stage you are past all the welding. Keep going you will soon have it in paint. Norman
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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Jun 21, 2020 19:57:18 GMT
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So I'm now officially bored of sitting on the floor in my own filler dust. But I think it was worth it. This what I started with. Shocking isn't it  Now with decent 5mm gaps all around.  The front door is looking much improved too. The gap between the front and rear door is a little larger at ~6mm the rear doors need a little space to open, and don't want to risk chipped paint.  So that is the filler done on the bottom 1/2 of the car. I'm not sure if I'm going to glaze those panels, or just go straight to primer filler. If anyone has any opinions - I'd be interested to hear them. Thanks for looking |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Jun 21, 2020 20:13:56 GMT
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Nice.
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Looking good.
You've put the effort in to get it to this point. Why not a little more for a nicer finish?
How much of the rest of the car are you going to be attacking/perfecting?
If you're not going to be repainting every panel, might not be worth it, then.
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For the amount of work & effort expended to date a skim of glaze and knocking it back is going to take a couple of hours - not bothering then priming & painting then realising that you are not happy with the results and having to do it again will probably set you back a day plus the additional materials - lets see 2 hours vs 8-10 hours + £100 - I'd take the 2 hour option route  PS: Fab work on the door aperture gapping - diligence at its best |
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Last Edit: Jun 22, 2020 5:43:58 GMT by Deleted
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we are not bored of you sitting on the floor in your own filler dust  |
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Last Edit: Jul 3, 2020 16:10:40 GMT by darrenh
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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I'm giving the filler a rest, I picked up quite a nasty burn on my arm, so rubbing down filler is not what the doctor ordered. But enthusiasm was renewed when I picked up the panels @grumpynorthener got dipped for me. I have to say - I love the finish on these parts. The radiator slam panel had lots of surface rust underneath, and would have been horrible to make nice.  The panel that covers the fuel tank was in good nick, but was slathered in stonechip. So again would have been a nightmare at home.  It will probably get stonechipped on the underside as a sound deadener, but at least I'll know it is all solid. The bonnet also went for dipping, as I knew it had rot in the corners. Hmmm crunchy.....  Turning it over, and it doesn't get much better. I cut out a rusted section - but look how has the primer got so far into the panel ? Impressive  Three small repair sections welded into place. The fourth long section is ready to go in, but there was a bit of grot on the seam, so as it was time to stop for dinner, I put on some Hydrate 80  Plenty more repairs needed - but then again I didn't have much planned for the weekend. If I get it close to finished this weekend - I'll be doing well. Thanks for looking. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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Apparently the primer is a electrostatic 'Korroprime'
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I'm sorry to say it but the finish and general process appears to be a lot better than Envirostrip not that they give a bad result.
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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I'm sorry to say it but the finish and general process appears to be a lot better than Envirostrip not that they give a bad result. I'd agree. I've got a front wing from Envirostrip , and the penetration into seams etc is definitely better at Ribble. I can see my Toyota LandCruiser project getting the Korroprime treatment., it seems quite similar to the e-coat some of factory Toyota panels have come in. |
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1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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I think if Chris is prepared to use it then it must be a quality system of treatment.
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C-rock
Part of things
Posts: 216
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 You can do mine next lol |
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moglite
Part of things
Posts: 815
Club RR Member Number: 144
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You can do mine next lol I think after this very long journey with my Traveller - I don't think I've got another Farina in me. |
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Last Edit: Jul 4, 2020 8:18:12 GMT by moglite
1967 Morris Oxford Traveller
1979 Toyota LandCruiser BJ40
1993 Daimler Double Six
2007 Volvo XC70 2.4D
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the thing that bothers me about dipping is that it gets everywhere, so do you end up with rust removed and bare metal in laminated areas of the car (like the mating faces of skins on mounting frames) but primer added back works by line of site ? (which is my understanding of electrostatic deposition) so whats to stop the laminated areas rapidly deteriorating ? does the system get an abnormally good press because its used on cosseted dry stored cars ?
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the thing that bothers me about dipping is that it gets everywhere, so do you end up with rust removed and bare metal in laminated areas of the car (like the mating faces of skins on mounting frames) but primer added back works by line of site ? (which is my understanding of electrostatic deposition) so whats to stop the laminated areas rapidly deteriorating ? does the system get an abnormally good press because its used on cosseted dry stored cars ? Darren - No it gets good press because done properly it eliminates all rust and gives you a clean sound base from where to start from - the areas that the primer & paint cannot treat are the same areas that went untreated when the vehicle was new from the factory - its only in the last 30 years or so on new vehicles have panels been painted on both sides - zinc corrosion protection utilised alongside effective seam sealers, underbody treatments, cavity waxes etc - providing panels / bodyshells that have been the subject of a dipping process are correctly prepared, sealed, primed, painted then there should be no issues with the external paint surfaces - providing the underbody is again correctly prepared, sealed & treated with high quality underbody treatments they should also be issue free - has for the cavities again providing they are treated correctly with a high quality cavity wax then there will be no issues - To date I never had a dipped bodyshell returned to me for remedial works to seams that have begun to rust several years onwards from when the restoration was first undertaken |
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I think there are places who can dip then phospate e-coat which provided there are no airlocks will coat the inner surfaces.
The one thing to be aware of is anything which uses structural adhesive or weld through sealer, this has become more and more common in the last 25 years as manufacturers have sought to increase stiffness, reduce weight and improve corrosion resistance.
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