1967 Morris Oxford Traveller - off to a new home

And boy was it a twisted mess!!

I did the same as above on our minor. Using the blocks of wood is fine if you are skilled enough (not that I am) but I've seen the pros do it and it's just another tool which if you don't use it right you could damage something.

The spirit level needs a better location anyway as it's very hard to see from behind the steering wheel.

I pulled the front of my Cressida back in to shape* by using a hand winch chained to the front bull bar of my other Cressida.
Probably should have used something a bit heavier as now there's some really short elevens on the painted driveway and garage floors where both cars got dragged towards each other a bit.

Repair panel for the bottom of the door. First held in place with magnets, then some spot welds.
The patch is overlapped on the door.
I've done the angled edges on purpose, so I fish out any scraps of steel later, when I make the cuts.
I could have made this a joddled repair, but my preference is for a butt joint wherever possible - but that is just me.



Its no fun working on the ground, so I drilled some 2.5mm holes in the hinges for some index pins - thanks @grumpynorthener for those pins - they work a treat.
Now I can put the door back on in the exact position repeatably.

Starting on the welding, first run a slitting disc down a small section of the blue line



Here you can see as I work across the panel in the various stages of 
    

• Ground back
• Fully welded
• Un-started but holding the panel nice'n'flat.

It took me 2-3 hours to weld/cool/dress just that joint. 

But it was worth it front <-> back the panel has stayed  distortion free, which I'm very happy about.



Top <-> bottom, the joint is slightly concave. 
That is the way I prefer to setup the panels.
It means I don't risk thining the metal when grinding, and a light skim of filler will get it perfectly flat.



Hardly the most exciting piccie, but the seam on the back has folded over, and the fillet joints at the end have been welded up.



Thanks for looking 

I'm not a fan of China currently, along with a lot of others, but I couldn't find these stainless plates anywhere else.
They are 119mm OD and about 4mm thick, end caps for pipes in food production I believe.

They along with a 90 degree bend and some laser cut flanges from @johnnybravo are to form the basis of my air-filter.



It is rare that my cordless gets a day off, but today is its day, with a fresh Starrett holesaw in the pillar drill, and lots of lube.




I chose a K&N element to sandwich between those two plates (via some welded on nuts, inside the top plate)
But K&N's aren't pretty.



I was after some decorative mesh as fitted to my dashboard.
I thought it would be a nice touch to tie things together.

Yes I'm liking that a lot.




The mesh from the dashboard is only long enough to cover 3/4 of the filter.
But I've got a 2nd piece on the way to fill the gap



The joins on the mesh will largely be hidden once the bonnet is back on.
But it should be possible to make them neat with a small vertical of H-section on each join.
I even though about lacing them together - with welding wire - might have to play with that on some scraps and see if it works.

A that stainless top is 4-5mm thick I've got some scope for machining or engraving a design into it.
I've not come up with anything I love yet, so it can stay plain for now.

Thanks for looking

Had a bit of garage time this evening.
Fully welded the pipe to the air-filter.



Ground it back some. This I believe will get powdercoated, rather than polished.
So, I can call this one good and move back to the bodywork.

That looks cool. It might be a bit restrictive, dead easy to diagnose it is though. I think with the supercharger pulling air through and relatively low rpm you'll be spinning the engine to it probably won't make a huge difference.

Doubt it but will probably make some nice noise all the same.

Lovely detail.

James